FrankEV

I have had the same situation and I do believe the heat can deffinately affect the adheasive making it grip stronger. Even age (sitting aroun on the shelf) seems to make the adeasive get stronger. A newly purchased product seems to release easier. That being said, I always sand the panel well (to min 600 grit) to get a good smooth surface before applying the shelf liner. And, when I remember, I check the direction of the grain so when I remove it, I make sure to peel it off in the direction of the grain. These steps make the removal easier and with minimum lift up of any veneer fibers. I have also noted that some Ply has a much more rough grain than others. I think the part of the tree use to make the venner also creates this rogher (less tight) grain which will release the surface fibers more readily. I find even the Solid core Ply that I buy in pre-cut panels, the grain can feel different from panel to panel (some smooth and some much rougher). The next time you remove it and pattern on shelf liner, you might want to try using a hair dryer/heat gun to losen the adheasive while you peel it off. Just my 2 cents on the subject. Hope it helps.

This double project was inspired by this Art that is exhibited on the walls of a Wayne G. Sanborn Activity Center in Deland Florida. I’ve enjoyed cutting ‘Birds-of-Prey’ patterns since I began scrolling but most of the patterns that are available were not very accurate representations and not in the perched pose I was looking for. So, although I did use images I found on-line, the patterns I developed using Inkscape are basically my work and not just a ‘trace bitmap’ copy. The patterns wound up being a ‘guide’ to the cutting as the many (I did not count, but I’m sure well over 500 in each pattern) cut-outs are very small with some smaller than the hole I drilled for the Pegas #2/0 spiral blades I used to cut the patterns. Additionally, although the patterns appeared to work on paper, I found I had to add many bridges, on the fly, to make them scrollable. Due to the delicate nature of the patterns, the closeness of the long parallel cut-outs, and the need to be very accurate in my cutting, I found I could only cut for about two hours at a time before my eyes would start to cross. As a result, it took over a week to complete each panel. As usual, the 11” x 14” patterns were cut in 5/32” thick solid core Maple Ply affixed to a 1/4" thick BB Ply backer. Using the Air Brush, the backers and panels were painted using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. Backers were painted Black while the cut panels were colored using photos of real Bald Eagles and Red-shouldered Hawks as guides. Creating the various color shades necessary to be realistic is still a ‘trial-and-error’ process for me. So the painting, drying time, necessary repainting, and additional drying time was very time consuming. I think I did a decent job of adding color to this project, but I still have a lot to learn. The double frame is just a variation on my standard 1 3/4" wide rail Poplar frame that has a Black rattle can spray, prime and paint, finish. As always, comments and critiques are welcome. EDIT: I posted the patterns in Pattern Exchange.

Yep, from sombody who has been adding color to my work for a while now, damn nice!!!!!!!! This may have been you first for a scroll saw project, but your painting skills are very apparent.

I use Titebond III wood glue for affixing my panels together, making frames, etc. The Titebond bottles have a decent dispencing tip, but it gets clogged with hardened glue and becomes difficut to pop-up to open. Just wondering if anyone uses a better type glue dispenser. I'm looking at this one, but looking for any suggestions anyone might offer. Thanks

Interesting, you made a framing jig/sled but don't know how to make a frame. Simple flat rail frames are easy to make. Multi part frame rails, fancy sculptured rails, etc. are more difficult but not usually warented for Scroll Saw Art Panels. This is what I do for all my Art panels. I use 3/4" Poplar or Premium Pine x 12" wide boards the I rip down to 1/34" wide "sticks" that I use to make my frames. I also use a frame cutting sled that I made that eliminates the need for meassuring. see: I rough cut the sticks to the Frame rail lengths adding about 2 inches. I than use my table router with a 1/4" rabbeting bit to rabbet the frame rails before I cut the miters. If you do not have a router table, the rabits can also be cut on the table saw with careful setup. My art panels are 3/8" thick, so I rabbet the sticks (which are actually 5/8" thick) 1/4"x 1/2". After the rabbets are done, I use the cutting jig to cut the miters. I simply need to set the stop about 1/16" longer than the panel width or height dimension. I use Titebond III wood glue with a little dusting of fine sawdust and a Seddy strap clamp to glue up the corner joints. After. the glue joints dry, I reinforce the joint from the back with 'V' nails and then sand to eliminate any glue squeeze out. I use 150/220/600 grit to get a very smooth finish. That is the easy part. Finishing is another story. Stains, Paints, Acrylics, and Lacquers are just some of the options. The choice of what finish I use depends a lot on the art panel, with Black Paint or Lacquer being my most often 'go-to' finishes, I'm still learning how to get a nice flawless finish which has never actually happened yet. Hope this helps.

546 holes...gees, thats all? Great cutting!

Realy nicely done. Curiose, what made you choose to do all red? Usualy in these images all is black ecept the red lips.

Nice cutting. Complements on the coloring!

Had done that one earlier as 11x14. Eventhoug it would go with the HATs, i did not want to redo as an 8x10.

The simple line drawings of RED LIP LADIES IN HATS are prolific online and most are stock images that cost little or nothing to obtain. There are also a lot the simple line drawings of RED LIP LADIES and RED WINE. With only minor conversion work needed, using Inkscape to make scrollable patterns from these simple line drawings is a snap. The patterns were each designed for an 11x14 panel. However, for these projects I printed them out scaled down in Adobe to fit 8x10 panels. As usual, the cut panels are 5/32” Maple Solid Core Ply and backers are 1/4” BB Ply. The backers were painted Black with, of course, Red for lips, accessories, fingernails, and wine. And, as usual, painting was done with an Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. Although the individual panels were rather simple cuts, using mainly Pegas #2/0 spiral blades and Pegas #1 MGT R blades for the smooth long cuts, the 10 panels did take quite a while to complete. Handling each individually, from start to finish, was quite time consuming. Then there was my choice to make gang frames. IMHO, the smaller panels look better in narrow rail frames, especially when ganged. Although all the construction is like what I do when I make my standard 1 3/4” wide rail frames, the narrow rails are difficult work with. This added a lot of time to the project. The frames were primed and painted Matt Black. Between our cruise, major yard projects, dealing with a stomach bug, and slipping in the Abstract Art Cat and Dog cuttings, this is the results of what has been occupying my shop time over the past few weeks. Comments and critiques always welcome.

OK, just could not leave it with just a Cat (see my post ‘Cat Picasso Style Abstract’), I had to make a Dog. No free SVG file this time, so I had to develop my own pattern from an Abstract Pop Art image I found on-line. Tried to stay away from any specific breed. This time the panel is 12” by 16”. Otherwise, all information is the same as the Cat so no need to repeat here. I will just say, although the finish product is striking, I will not be inclined to do more like these too soon. Although the cutting is quite simple, painting the colors is a SPITA. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange. Maybe some out there who like to do segmental type panels can adopt the pattern for such. Painting individual pieces would be much simpler and, the end result should be just as striking.

Very well done. Like the frame...nice to have access to real framing materials!

Just getting back into the shop after a lengtly absence. We were away on a long cruise. Then I needed to complete two significant yard projects. On top of all that I have been suffering with a stomach bug for over three weeks. However, when possible I have been doing some cutting on a multi-part project, but I had to interrupt it to do this Abstract Art piece that I found on-line as a free .SVG download. I still needed to do a little tweeking to make it work as a 12’ x 18” Scroll Saw pattern. Cutting the 5/32” solid core ply was very easy using a Pegas #1 Mgt R blade. All coloring was done with an Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. Due to the many different colors the painting and finishing time was long. Dry time…ugh! Typical 1/4" ply backer. The frame is a 3/4” wide rail Gallery Style Floating Frame, painted Silver. There are a lot of shadows in the photo and the color of the frame is washed out. It looks a lot better when hanging on a wall and viewed from the normal four feet away. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange for anyone who would like it.

I atttempted to send you a message but got a message that you cannot receive meassages. I had some thoughts about your projects shown herein that I was not confortable sharing in this open forum.

Yes, the white and green are on the cut panel. The black, red and blue are on the backer.

The first project is from a sock Image titled “Life’s a Gamble”. The conversion to a 12”x12” scrollable Pattern was mainly adding many bridges in the Lettering. There was no special reason for doing this project, other than wanting to take a break from doing complicated patterns for a change. Although, it did seem a little appropriate for me, as I will reach my 82 Birthday in May. I guess I should be happy the "gamble" is still paying off. The Cut Panel is 5/32” thick Solid Core Birch Ply cut using mainly Pegas #2/0 Spiral Baldes and Pegas #1 MGT R Blades. The cut panel is affixed to a 1/2" thick Sanded Ply Backer. Color was added using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. The close-up photo shows some cutting and painting defects that are not TOO noticeable when viewed from a standard 4 feet away. This will hang in my shop. The second project is more of my normal work, yet this too was a very quick cut. There are many illustrations in what I call the “Red Lips” category, by many different Artist both known and unknown. Many of which are available from the stock illustrations sites and are royalty free. I’ve been eyeing these illustrations for some time now. I found this “Lady (with Red Lips) in a Cowboy Hat” illustration on-line and it seemed like it would make a scrollable pattern. I proceeded with the conversions even though it was obvious from the start that it required the addition of many bridges. Once again, the cut panel is 5/32” thick Maple Solid Core Ply and the backer is 1/4" thick BB Ply. The relatively easy cutting was done using a Pegas #1 MGT R Blade in just one, two-hour, sitting. Yes, this is another colored piece using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. However, only two colors were applied to the backer… Red, for the lips of course, and everything else black. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic finish. I also hid many of the bridges with Black paint applied by brush. The Frame is my simple 1 3/4" wide Poplar Rails finished with Black Lacquer that had a final top-coat application of a Clear Matt Lacquer. As allways, comments and critiques always appreciated. I will post the Patterns in Pattern Exchange for anyone who might wish to have.

Great work. I cut that pattern a long time ago. Always thought is was nice but kind of boring since it did not read well in the 3/4" thick Walnut I used. The addition of the Epoxy Resin really makes the image stand out. Since mine never sold, I just might try adding it to mine. Got nothing to lose.

Not sure if LED's would work, but you are certainly free to try. For those that work with colored epoxy, this could be a project worth considering. Since you asked so nice I will post, In Pattern Exchange, my 11.5x19 (printed on Super B size paper) and a 10.25x17 version (printed on 11x17 paper) for those who my like to try this pattern.

I kind of believe that is the intent!

There are a lot of things that happened to the panel itself that makes it a throw-a-way. Some of the things that happend are: While trimimg the panel to its final dimensions, the saw cought the panel and put a big gouge on the back side, when lifting the pattern, the face of the panel gave up some fibers so I could not get a nice flat finish of the black, after the panel was assembled and during handling the paint surface got mared that I had to touch-up, but in real life, the touch-up is noticeable. So, I'm only being hard on myself for the lack of concentration and just stupid foul-ups that occured. The pic does not tell the whole story. I liked how it looked in the original Black/Green/White Image and was really wondered if others would like it as well, or in other words is it worth my time and effort to remake it. From comments so far I'm thinking it might be a good Idea to recut and paint it while being a lot more careful. Thanks for your nice comment.

I cut the Pink Panther cartoon character quite a while ago. Although I had a lot difficulties making this projects, I really wanted to know if this image, as painted, is a suitable scroll saw preentation. I know I can do the cutting and colonization better if I redo it.

Yes, I cut everything with the Scroll Saw. The wiskers were cut using a Pegas # 1 MGT R blade. Narrow long streight or curvedd parallel line cut outs are probably the hardest scroll saw cutting there is. I"ll admit the wiskers are actually a little wider than the printed pattern.

I really should not be posting this in Bragging Rights as it is nothing to brag about. I found this haunting image of a panther face and attempted to duplicate it just as it appeared...Bright Green and White against a solid Black background with a very faint grey-black shading. Although a relitively easy cutting, suffice to say things did not go smoothly as expected, and one ‘bugger’ led to another. I had many problems with the painting, especially the finish of the Black. And then, after deciding to make a Gallery style floating Frame for this piece it took three attempts to get the size correct and the mitered joints, tight. I used 5/32” solid core birch ply for the cut panel and 1/4” BB Ply for the backer. The panel size is really oddball at 11 1/8” by 19”. The cutting was done with Pegas # 1 MGT R blades for all the long-curved cut outs and Pegas #2/0 spiral blades elsewhere. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Clear Closs Acrylic finish. The frame was finished with Black Lacquer. I’m most interested in comments about the image and If I should consider doing a remake as I think this first attempt will become fuel for my Firepit.

Very nicely done. It would have been nice to have posted a pic of Bear with the cutting to see how well you did capturing the likeness. I nice dark frame witll make it pop.

I wanted to reply with a funny chicken joke, but just could not come up with anything. So, I'll just say: GreatCutting, will make very nice gift.