Insane Dust Maker

Will do, if you good with your hands and can do some metal work it is iasy to do, I can move from hole hole in less than a minute.

Thank you.

Thank you all, I’m slow take my time, there’s never a rush to finish it, but the end result is always so rewarding. I can sit back and say to myself you did it!

Just finished this Russ Beard pattern, I have some thoughts as to how I want to make the framing etc. But for now the hard work has been done. cut on a modified Wen Scroll Saw with my own design pin less blade adaptor and blade holder, the entire pattern was cut using a Niqua #0 blades.

Thank you.

I’ve 6 of they all wanting pattern cut for them.

My latest cut it’s a comic pattern from Botas Helder, my grandson chose this as his birthday present, his mom who painted my Yoda is going to paint it for him.

Just to let you know, I. can’t do any scroll saw work at the moment, because our corrupt government has not done maintenance on the power stations and they are now on the verge of collapse. We have been on Stage Six Load Shedding which means they switch the power off and you got to live with that. As I write this now it’s 8:00PM in South Africa our suburb has not had power since 12:00 PM today, nobody knows what’s going on. So tomorrow and the week end our schedule shows power will be off on these times: 00:00-2:30AM 04:00-6:30AM 12:00-16:30PM 20:00-00:30PM So survival ( keeping food from going off etc) is more important than Scroll Saw Cutting.

Melanie, Tim Vande Sluis use this on the majority of his wood carvings, I tried his lessons on relief carvings etc. but somehow it just did not click for me, I then discovered scroll saw cutting, and I’m enjoying it to the full. Sadly where I stay we only get bottom end scroll saw, in fact a choice of two. Struggle to get the right blades, but I work with what I got.

I have used to paint my Yoda’s and to do some wood burning, it’s basically a modified Lay Susan, it’s not my design it is Tim Vande Sluis in his Powercarving video on you tube, where he tells you how to make it. The great thing about this it has a non slip mat on it so your project won’t slip, but here’s the greatest thing of all you don’t turn your project you turn the table and use the wedge shown in the photo just jam it between the table and the stand and it won’t turn will you doing whatever. Hope you find this as useful as I do, sanding of completed cuts is a dream with a little Palm Sander.

This was a gift when I retired, it’s been wrapped in bubble plastic for 6-7 yrs. I found it this morning whilst looking for something else, gave it a good polish and will hang it up in the cottage. Because I’m doing scroll saw work now this Intarsia project has inspired me to add this to my list of projects I must try.

Thank you.

Finished the Yoda’s very happy with the results. Made the frames myself The cut was done using #1 & #0 Straight Niqua Blades that’s all we can get in our country.

The Backers are done and the painting starts this week. I’m starting to manufacture the frames tomorrow, then it the process of sanding, under coating, more sanding until a smooth finish is achieved then color and more sanding with water paper and then final coat.

These are my latest cuts, a Big Thank You to Botas Helder for sending me the patterns it’s truly appreciated. I’m going to paint them ( with my daughters help, she does art) one set is for my son in laws 50th birthday later this month. I’m not sure about a backer yet, was thinking painting 1/8 MDF black and the glue Yoda to that, I have a good idea in my mind as to what the backer should look like when finished. I’m very happy with the cuts considering this is only my 6 & 7th cuts, the big Yoda was quite challenging for me but I’m more than happy with the results. Any advice on backed is most welcome.

Ray, I’ve made my own rods, I was concerned that the top triangular nut was a little stripped buy I’m cutting Russ Beard pattern now and everything is work well, thanks. I have a guy who can make me a few of those nuts just in case they do one day strip and damage the thread, I have one in my saw and a second one ready to go in in case of a emergency, all I do then is swap the tension rods and recycle the damaged one and it becomes the spare.

Frank, so if I’m cutting 1/8 Birch Ply, what blade should I be using bearing mind our blade availability here S A is very poor. I can probably get #2/0, 3/0 is straight blades, nothing thinner in reverse tooth, and you can forget spiral, our supplier only starts a #3. And what would I use if I double stack to 1/8, tried #1 and that’s where I had all my problems, it seemed to attack the wood. I currently cutting a Russ Beard Leopard using 1/4” Birch Ply and cutting with a #2 straight and it looks dam fine.

Ray, it’s not a flip over, the tension rod has a knob on the top that you turn to tension, the nut is a triangular left hand thread nut. That’s the guy I’m looking for. In S A we get Martlet, Ryobi & Record all the same 16” saws, THATS IT. Spares are hard to come by. The complete tension rod from Ryobi is $15.50 but Al always no stock.

Please I need help I saw on the web the other day that you can buy the tension rod nuts separately, like a idiot I forgot to save the site. I’m looking for the top nut the one that does the tensioning. I have a local guy who can make them, he says it will take him half an hour and wants $11 for a threaded nut. So I want to compare prices, because, although the saw is cutting fine and I got about 5 hours of scrolling in today, I’m still not happy, so I believe after checking everything, that the threaded nut has been hurt, hence I want to replace it and keep a few spares.

Wayne, While I scroll I spend the time listening to music, but most importantly I sit and scroll and have conversations with God, the Holy Spirit focuses my eyes and places his hands on mine and we scroll together. I’m self taught there’s no scroll saw help here in S A.

Whicman, checked as per John suggestion the blade at the back was about 1/64” out on the blade alignment (front & back) adjusted my pin less blade adaptors I made, rechecked everything for square to the table top, all good, remade my blade holders during the week and am not getting any blade slippage, done some test cuts and the cuts are dead straight, so for now it looks good will have to do some more cutting to be absolutely sure.

John, thanks for that it worth looking at considering that I have checked about as much as I can, if I do see movement on the wood then I’ll strip it down again and recheck. The back of the saw is tilted 4” as recommended on another site, I don’t thick that matters, I don’t know I only recently changed to the tilt position, for the past year I always cut with the saw flat on the stand, someone on the other group I belong to suggested lowering the saw a bit but I don’t think that has anything to do with the way the saw is cutting.

Not a good day in the workshop messed up a pattern Again. Went back and checked the saw out (Wen) last week I replaced the tension rod, as always here in S A agents have no stock, tried Ryobi (same part) firstly the “sales” person did not know what I was asking for despite quoting the Ryobi part number, after nearly 45 minutes sorry we don’t have stock. So I looked at the tension rod it’s a 1/4” left hand thread rod, so I bought 3 x 40” rods cut them to size ( made 5 spare) reassembled tested every works fine very nice and quite. I get the feeling whilst cutting its as if the blade is “attacking” the wood ( 1/8 double stacked Birch Ply grade B/BB) checked blade direction, stand is level in both directions saw table level in both directions, saw blade 100% square to the table top, but it still just did not feel good, don’t know what else to check. Very disappointed don’t feel like going into the workshop tomorrow or the next few days. So much effort amounts to nought. Any advice would be welcome and Please don’t tell me to get another saw, we only have three or four choices all the same but just different brands. I’m a pensioner for me to import a Seyco or Pegasus into S A with courier fees and our corrupt governments imports duties the saw would cost me $2850.

Dan my stand is big enough for a cup of coffee or a nice cold beer, we brew our own craft beer so stock is always available.

We don’t get a good selection of blades in S A. The importer imports but all the wrong sizes. So I have to make do with what I can get which is mainly #1,2,3 & 5 straight, #3 reverse tooth and #3 spiral which I struggle with. But I get buy every day with what I got.