Dak0ta52

I've only dabbled in Gimp so my limited knowledge is in Inkscape. You can always go online and change the SVG file to JPG. Also, another hint, you can add a lot of contrast to a picture to help render it into a more usable "potential" pattern. I've found that the brightness can sometimes wash out a lot of your details.

Excellent! Just a helpful tip. You can load the picture into Inkscape (and other programs) and use the "Fill" to show where you have drop-outs and need to add bridges. I usually "fill" with a bright color such as red so it will contrast with the black and white I use as a pattern. For me, after I have the pattern where it is complete, I'll go back and turn the black into light gray and make the lines I will have to follow with the blade (the stroke) into red. That way the dark blade doesn't get lost when cutting. The blade stands out better and the red lines are easy to follow. You can make the lines as large or as thin as you want. My go to thickness for the line is .006.

Hello all. I haven't posted a lot lately but still doing some scrolling when I have the chance. Had to put my mom in an assisted living facility and now getting things ready to sell her house. The wife took vacation to go to PA to see her mother so I took vacation to stay home and catch up on things as well as animal sit all our critters. During this vacation I finally was able to sit at the saw and knock out this covered bridge that I had purchased the pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear. The face is cut using 1/8 Baltic Birch and stained with Ipswich. The backer is 1/4 Pine ply stained Pure Black. Both were sprayed with several coats of Polyacrylic with light sanding between coats. The frame is Pine and also sprayed with Polyacrylic. This was a fun cut and it sure was nice to create some dust again.

My frames are usually more of a rustic look by choice so I typically go with pine to get the knots and grain. I have made frames from Maple and Oak but it depends mostly on the piece I plan to frame. You can get these woods from most any big box store at a reasonable price. The biggest task is selecting boards that are "fairly" straight. My orders from Ocooch Hardwoods have been primarily Baltic Birch ply and some Maple boards.

Excellent, Denny!

First, welcome to the Village. If you have questions, ask them here. The knowledge from the vast number of scrollers on this forum is enormous. This is where I started out a few years back. Second, don't be afraid to tackle a job. Remember that all scroll saw pieces are cut one hole at a time. That doesn't matter if it is the size of a pin head or most of the project. I try to focus on which "holes" are going to weaken other cuts. I have found I enjoy cutting with the smallest blade possible, usually #1 or smaller and because I cut mostly portrait type projects, they are usually spiral. I also use Pegas blades from Artcraftersonline.com which is a business owned by one of the Village members. Denny treats you right and has great prices. Steve has some great patterns and are great for a new scroller. His patterns are typically more "usable" such as tools, vases, toys, etc. If you want to step into a little more complicated patterns, check out some in the Village library. There you can find some that are fairly easy all the way to very complicated. I will say that you are diving into a great and rewarding hobby. It is very addictive. Remember to have fun. Please share your projects by posting pictures. That inspires others on the forum. Happy Scrolling!!!

Welcome from North Carolina. Again, no knowledge of such a gauge.

Nice Job. I've also cut most of the Americana Series being a fan of Jim's patterns.

Welcome from North Carolina.

WOW!!! You're going to be busy!

Nicely done, Dick.

Welcome from North Carolina.

Great job on both the piece and the framing!!!

Welcome from North Carolina.

Wow! Those are really nice. Not sure if my shaky hands could be that delicate.

Welcome from North Carolina. My wife is a former PA girl. She lived in Williamsport area.

Welcome from North Carolina!

That I am!!! The cutting doesn't take very long. The finishing is time consuming.

After seeing the bird house pieces Denny and some of the others have done, I just had to try them. The Ornament house patterns I found online, and the standing house patterns were purchased from Wooden Teddy Bear. As you can see they are a mixture of colors. I experimented with various blades but decided I liked cutting with the Pegas #5 MGT the best. I tried the Pegas #5 Double Skip but found I liked the MGT cutting better. The horse is from a pattern purchased from Wooden Teddy Bear. I use Pegas #0/2 and #1 spiral blades. They are stained with Ipswich and Natural with the backers stained Black and Pine. There were a few tricky spots. I found that when I make my pattern from the purchased patterns, I would have to reduce the stroke down to .004 in order to distinguish the cutting area between some of the lines. Hope you enjoy.

I've cut a few "Transportation" worthy pieces. The motorcycle was challenging because of the long narrow strips and the fins on the motor. However, the stagecoach is a piece that was most challenging. If I remember correctly it is a few holes short of 1500. To me, completing a piece that tests my abilities is very rewarding.

Welcome from North Carolina!

Welcome to the Village. Lots of knowledge here so don't hesitate to ask questions.

Welcome to the Village! Looking forward to seeing you progress as you learn the craft.

I have the Pegas 30" and can say I'm totally satisfied. The extra depth of the throat is seldom used but it is nice knowing it is there. This is a BIG and HEAVY machine! I can't comment on the Hegner other than I've heard from other members in the Village that they are good machines also. I purchased my Pegas from Denny at Artcraftersonline.com. He gave me a great deal and if Pegas is the way you decide to go, I highly recommend reaching out to him.

Welcome back, Don!