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Dak0ta52

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Everything posted by Dak0ta52

  1. Congrats!!!
  2. Do you call that, "Getting 'behind' the curve?" However, it's an interesting topic!
  3. Welcome to the Village from North Carolina. I must say you're jumping into a very addictive hobby.
  4. Nicely done!!!
  5. Outstanding work as usual, Dick. I really like seeing your posts.
  6. Welcome to the Village from North Carolina.
  7. Welcome to the Village from North Carolina. I don't cut books and my saw is a Pegas, so my advice is only to say if you are happy with the results then it is the right setup for you. I adjust the speed to a comfortable setting where I can cut accurately. I also have a tendency to cut with the smallest blade possible to get the job done. The number of teeth per inch can be affected by the type and thickness of material you are cutting. The blade needs to clear the sawdust (in your case, paper cuttings) from the kerf to cut properly. The knowledge on this forum is vast and I'm sure there will be someone to comment with a lot better advice than I can provide. We love pictures here so don't hesitate to post your projects. It allows for constructive criticism as well as inspiration for others on the forum.
  8. The sun shines though my bay door in the mornings when I have it open. My magnifier light is in the sun for a short period. It may be a good idea to cover it during that short period when the sun is shining through. Glad you didn't suffer any additional damage than a few books.
  9. Welcome from North Carolina. Outstanding work.
  10. Sorry for your loss, Charlie. Prayers for you and your sister's family.
  11. Nicely done. I really like how the Danish oil brings out the grain of the wood. I've used the washer trick many times and have an assortment of various size washers just for that purpose.
  12. Nice work, Dick, but even nicer is seeing you back on the forum.
  13. Welcome to the Village from North Carolina.
  14. I mentioned in another topic a jig I created to help cut the angles for a frame. The first picture is the jig itself. The metal ruler on the left side is turned with the numbers down. This side is used to make the first angle cut on the framing material. The right side is a standard metal ruler with the "0" (zero) flush with the blade on the table saw. The two pieces of ruler are at a 90 degree angle to each other and 45-degrees to the blade. Because the ruler has a thickness, I'm able to butt the inside bevel (where the picture will be placed) against the edge of the ruler. After making the first cut on the left, I move the framing material to the right "ruler" and make the second cut to the length needed. By placing the bevel against the ruler, I don't have to figure the depth of the bevel cut in the lengths of the frame pieces. The piece I am cutting in the picture is being cut at 10-inches. Hope this is understandable. Let me know if you have any questions.
  15. It seems a lot of people have problems with making frames. I made a simple jig for my table saw using a metal ruler I purchased cheap from Harbor Freight. I aligned the ruler with the edge of the blade so it measures the length of the cut and placed it at a 45-degree angle to the blade. The length can be however long you think you might cut a frame. On the opposite side I placed another metal length of ruler but this one I placed upside down because I didn't need the length measurements. The two metal "rulers" create a 90-degree angle from each other and are 45-degrees to the blade. When I cut the frame, I make my first cut along the strip without numbers to make my first 45-degree cut. Doing so, I am able to align the groove along the edge of the metal ruler. I then make my second cut on the ruled metal strip with the groove along the ruler and place the angle of the first cut at the length I need to cut. After cutting all four sides, I hit them with a little sandpaper to knock off the fuzzies and then glue it up. I also have a jig to cut a groove for splines in the corners of the frame after the initial glue up. I cut strips of various wood (oak, walnut, etc.) to use as splines. If anyone would be interested I can take photos or make a short video if needed.
  16. I agree with Frank in that the heat could very well effect the adhesion of shelf liner to the wood. I've experienced the fibers lifting as well as delamination. I also sand to 600 before applying and rather than wiping or blowing the blank off before applying, I'll go ahead and apply the shelf liner with the slightest "dusting" of sawdust. So thin that you can't really see it but if you would wipe it with a rag, you'd see the dust. I also believe the longer you leave it on, the stronger the adhesive becomes. You didn't mention this but I have also experienced some of the adhesive remaining on the piece after removing the shelf liner. Again, I believe this is partly due to the heat. It removes easily with Mineral Spirits but it is a little aggravating.
  17. Nice setup, Chris. Wish my shop was as organized!
  18. Very nice, Frank!
  19. Welcome from North Carolina.
  20. Excellent cutting.
  21. I use Titebond III and have all three sizes of the Glue Bot bottles. The one I use mostly is the middle size. The tips do clog but I use a dental probe to clean the tip. I also have a glue roller I use to glue projects to their backers. My shop gets so warm and with the fans running I found on larger projects the glue was already starting to set (dry) before I could cover the entire surface. Using the roller I can cover an entire piece in less than a minute.
  22. While I have no knowledge about the DeWalt, I feel your biggest issue is experience... and possibly saw setup. When running the saw, the blade should be running straight up and down. If not, it is possible some tweaking may be necessary. Others in the Village with this brand of saw may pipe in if this is the case. As far as control in turns, slowing down your push into the blade, or on sharp turns, slight back pressure, seems to work for me. I also like the intricate projects and depending on the thickness of the material and blade choice, I've found you can cut pretty delicate pieces with everything tuned right and patiences. Welcome to the Village. There are a lot of great people here with a vast amount of knowledge. I've only been scrolling for a few years where others here have many, many years experience. Don't hesitate to ask questions and we love photos. Great work on your bowls and tree of life.
  23. First of all, thanks to Grampa for the Baby pattern. The second piece is another Grampa pattern from the Village Library. Both pieces will be a gift for a great friend whose wife and he just had their first baby, Stella. Both pieces were cut on 1/4-inch BB and stained with Minwax Ipswich. The backer is Pine stained with Minwax Pure Black. The frames were cut from 1X material and also stained with Ipswich. The pieces were then sprayed with several coats of Polyacrylic with light sanding between coats. I've also included the photo of Stella. She's a cutie!
  24. On this side of the states it is very, very hot, but we sure haven't had the rain. You know it's bad when I have to mow my pond.
  25. My wife has been visiting family out of state and the chores and animals around home have kept me busy. I've also been quite busy cutting commissions. This one belonged to a member of the dog training club the wife is a member. Unfortunately, the cutie went to doggie heaven recently and my wife wanted me to do a piece for her friend. This is cut on 1/4 inch BB stained Ipswich. The backer is lauan stained pure black. The frame is cut from a 1X10 and also stained Ipswich. Both piece and frame are finished with several coats of Polyacrylic with sanding between coats. The wife is on her way home and hopefully I'll be able to get back enjoying the art and comments from my friends here in the Village.
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