Millwab
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Everything posted by Millwab
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Kirk, I looked through the most applicable subfolders (religious, word art, misc) and couldn't find it. Can you link to it for me? Thanx
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Back to my original question. I’ve found that if I rotate the speed control min to max a couple times before starting the saw it prevents the motor from reving up. Not sure why it helps but for now this works. I’ll eventually open up the control box and blow it out when I have more time to play with it. Thanx all for your help.
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Paul, the thread started out talking about the Hawk but eventually morphed to trying to control speed on a single speed Hegner. In regards to that, I asked a retired electrical engineer friend about using the speed controllers linked to Amazon and he told me that the Short answer is No. You wouldn’t ruin the motor but the controller would be toast. Guess I’m going to have to put up with the Hegner's speed until I can replace it with a variable speed model.
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Paul, I looked at the specs on a couple of those. They all mentioned using with grinders but most said "Not suitable for appliances with circuit boards and capacitor electronic components" and one mentioned it could not be used with brushless motors. I’d be surprised if my 1988 single speed SS had a circuit board but wouldn’t have the slightest idea if the motor had brushes or not.
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Well, I picked up a used Hegner (c.1988) a couple years back as a backup saw. Bought a quick release upgrade and a quick clamp (game changers). Only thing is it’s a single speed saw. Hoping they still support their 30+ yo equipment. Don’t understand why the DC motor couldn’t replace the AC motor.
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Finally got to contact Bushton and their answer was: "Unfortunately, you would need to take your motor to someone local to have it looked at. Your saw would have an old FASCO motor, which is AC, and we only deal with the DC ones. Chances are that they just need to take it apart and clean it up well. I'm so sorry we can't help with that." I'm admittingly disappointed in their product support. I don't know much about small electric motors but I don't understand why they would be able to take apart and clean a DC one but not an AC one. Not sure where to go from here.
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I’ve been experiencing an issue with my 1994 Hawk recently where I would be cutting (at only about half speed) when it would all of a sudden rev up to full speed for a second or two before returning to the set speed. Any ideas why? Is the controller going bad? Or something with the motor? It has the old style motor/controller that Bushton doesn’t have a replacement for. Is it time to start looking for a new saw?
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Ray, I’ve been using these PureBond panels for a few years now for my puzzles and have not had any issues with delamination or voids. And a bonus is they deliver them for free!
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So detailed. Just curious what takes you longer; designing the pattern or cutting it
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Lil mermaid sculpture (Steve good download)
Millwab replied to Allen levine's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Shelf liner doesn’t have the tack that tape has and is a lot cleaner to peel off -
My mantra for the last 12 years has been "retirement is the best job I’ve ever had." Look forward to a week of 6 Saturdays and a Sunday .
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Currently working on inventory for the one "event" I do each year. Starting with puzzles, word art, and portraits before moving on to other things. Examples include …
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A Little Something for the Bottom Feeder
Millwab replied to Scrappile's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Instead of a nail set, before I start cutting I’ll use an awl to enlarge the exit hole from the drill bit. It cleans up any tear out there might be and gives me a better target to thread the blade through. -
@OCtoolguy Ray, I had the opportunity to cut another portrait out of 1/8” ply today but I only had one frame left for that particular size so I didn’t stack cut it. I still wanted to have a thicker stack for blade control but didn’t want to waste a good piece of ply, so I covered the ply with shelf liner on both sides. Glued the pattern to one side and glued the cereal box cardboard to the other. This kept the cardboard in good contact over the whole piece. After cutting the portrait both the pattern and the cardboard peeled off cleanly and there were zero fuzzies on the back side of the ply. It was so clean I couldn’t tell the front from the back! I guess your idea worked
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Ray, I don’t usually do much portrait work (I cut mainly puzzles) but I did cut one today. I used cereal box cardboard behind 2 layers of 1/8” ply and it did help a lot on eliminating the fuzzies on the bottom piece of wood. My only suggestion, if you’re a bottom feeder, is to make sure the printed side of the cardboard is against the wood. It can be challenging to find the holes against the pictures/writing if the inside (plain side) is inside and the print is out. DAMHIK
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Steve, why don’t you just use the cedar fence pickets for the letters too? The cedar would hold up better outside than the MDF.
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No first hand experience, but I’ve read that plain old Elmers glue-all (white glue) has a longer open time than yellow glue but bonds the same (wood to wood). It might give you the time you need.
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I have a Walnut Hollow wood burning kit and found that Wall Lenk can make a custom logo that screws into the tool. Only possible drawback is the logo can’t exceed 0.75” x 0.75” (which worked for me).
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Bob, when I make these I use Cooper Black. I type up the name in Inkscape, give it a bit of a tilt (not a full italic), then move the letters so they are touching and weld them together. I use 3/4" stock and they stand well without a base as long as you keep the bottoms of the letters in line.
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Puzzle is 8”x10” (on 1/4” ply) with approximately 1” squares = 80 pieces. I decided to plan on layering the pieces in various box dimensions and see how many layers I’d have. Then add a little extra to the height.
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I am cutting a special puzzle for a friend of mine and want to make a box to present it in. Do to a time crunch (it’s a Christmas present) I’ll need to work on the box before the puzzle is done. I’m trying to determine the inside dimensions of the box to fit all the puzzle pieces in. I’m thinking the volume of the box should be 3-4x the volume of the puzzle. Am I on the right track or does someone else have an idea for me?
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I’m not a "royal watcher" but if I’m not mistaken Charles wore the same crown as Elizabeth II did. I think Camilla had a different one.
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Your Results of This Year (2024) Craft Sales
Millwab replied to JTTHECLOCKMAN's topic in Business Side
I only do one event all year and that is demonstrating at our county fair. I’m in a building that demonstrates crafts from the 1800’s and I take my treadle scrollsaw. They don’t charge anything for the space since we’re doing the demonstrations (which would have been a deal killer for me). They do let us sell things and for most of the others in the building it is their primary business or side hustle. After my first year there (strictly an educational endeavor) I was encouraged to bring some things to sell, so the following 3 years I’ve brought a variety of projects but centered mostly on puzzles and word art. Even though I probably underprice things, my sales have been good enough to keep me in materials for the year and a few woodworking toys. Didn’t want another "job" after retiring but making inventory for the next fair gives me something to do and I can cut things at my leisure. A win-win. -
Chris, have you tried covering the bottom with shelf liner or a thin piece of cardboard (like a cereal box)? When I’m cutting 2-sided puzzles and want to minimize any fuzzies I put clear Contact shelf liner on the bottom. Works well for me and comes off very cleanly.
