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yamatetsu

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Everything posted by yamatetsu

  1. Fishnet. 36,5 x 45,2 cm, these are the first 6 pieces. Of 108. As usual, cut with a handheld fretsaw, as usual, the board is too big, but this time it's also too big for my cutting table. Fun times ahead
  2. I won't lie, there have been many tense moments cutting this. But it's still just 'follow the line, one line at a time', at slightly higher stakes. Doing something like this comes with a huge benefit: I'm not intimidated by tight cuts any more.
  3. Heh. This being so delicate was actually due to a mistake I made while converting the original image in Rapid Resizer. I set the threshold wrong, which resulted in a 'wireframe' image. I didn't realize this until I completed about 3 quarters of the image. The original one would have been much easier to do.
  4. "Boba Fett" 44,5cm x 62cm, backer board 8mm, Boba 4mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #3 blade.
  5. Nice!
  6. Once you have figured out how to best do the various sorts of cuts, it's not that hard. I have better control of the sawing speed, which allows me to do the tricky cuts at my own pace, so following the line is probably actually easier by hand than by machine, at least for curves and corners, keeping a straight line requires practice. The downside is that the blade goes harder on the wood at a slower speed, so, if you're using cheap ply like me, it tends to splinter or break off if you're doing cuts close to each other.
  7. "Batman" 60 x 85cm, backer board 6mm, Batman 4mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #1 blade. A4 sheet for size. 4 months on and off, 100+ hours, never again. Looks absolutely amazing, though.
  8. Nope, I just put a gob of paint on the piece and then distribute it verrry evenly with my fingers ... I used a paintbrush. Also, a foam roller. Occasionally, a drill.
  9. I stumbled upon a 'Star Wars' pic that has Peanuts characters as protagonists. I decided to do the pic, but to add a little twist: I made a diorama. Everything was done with hand tools, a Ryoba, a fretsaw with a #3 blade, sanding paper. The only power tool I used was a jigsaw to cut the hole for the 'window'. Even the slot for Snoopy was cut with the fretsaw. Some build pics:
  10. No offense taken. I didn't think you were knocking my piece.
  11. I don't care about drop-outs. The nose and the left eye would look weird if I had made bridges. To do that just to get an image that is one piece seems silly to me.
  12. Nah, your eyes are fine. That one really looks like a bridge, must be because of the camera angle. In real life there is a 1mm gap between paw and background. I checked
  13. Thanks for the praise, but there is no bridge. The board is 35 x 47cm, the fretsaw is 30 cm, so having a bridge would have made cutting the pattern impossible. Even after extracting the dog from the board it was still too large for the saw, so that made for some tricky cutting.
  14. Since I made a few patterns of dog photos in the 'pattern request' thread, I hereby present to you how this style of pattern looks like in real life. This is my dog Gina. 35 x 47 cm, backer board 4mm, Gina 4mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #1 blade. This was a lot of work, but I think it looks way better than a pattern made of simple lines.
  15. "Laurel & Hardy" 36,5cm x 29,5cm, backer board 8mm, Laurel & Hardy 8mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #3 blade. "Laurel & Hardy: On fire" 40,5cm x 27cm, backer board 6mm, Laurel & Hardy 6mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #3 blade. "Laurel & Hardy: Shhh" 34,5 x 25,5cm, backer board 6mm, Laurel & Hardy 6mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #3 blade.
  16. "Lt. Frank Drebin" from 'The naked gun' 41,5 x 41cm, backer board 8mm, Frank 4mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a hand held fretsaw with a #3 blade. After having finished the sawing, I took a scalpel and cut out the grey areas and then painted them. I wasn't crazy enough to try and cut those with the saw
  17. I haven't tried this myself, but it looks like the solution to your problem. I don't know if it's allowed to post links to websites, so try googling 'How to Stencil Anything: 3 Secrets to Perfect Results Every Time'. You should get an adress that has 'lovelyetc' in it. Go to that website, scroll down a bit, there is a link to 'a step-by-step tutorial for stenciling on wood' that seems to cover everything from which materials to use to how to do it.
  18. I've been doing fretsaw work for almost 3 years now, this was done approx. 2 years ago. Back then I knew that it would be hard to do, but not how hard. My fretsaw is 30 cm long, the pic is 36.5 cm high, so there were cuts that needed some creative cutting. I used a #3 blade because that was the only type of blade I knew. Nowadays I would use a #1 blade, but still a straight blade. I have tried using spiral blades, I am able to use them, but that's not for me. I think it's a safe bet that by using a fretsaw the blade moves much slower than that of a scrollsaw. So the blade moves much slower, I use a 4 mm thin board and a relatively crude blade. I can practically hear the wood screaming as the blade chews it's way through it. Being able to saw backwards with a handheld saw is kind of cool, though.
  19. Yep, I don't have room (or funds) for machines, I even have to cut the boards using a ryoba. This is the reason why I don't do frames for my pics, because it's just too much of a hassle to do them by hand. The one machine I use is a Dremel knockoff to drill the holes.
  20. I found this pic in Scrappile's gallery, liked it and wanted to do it. I couldn't find a pattern, so I used his photo. 27cm x 36.5cm, backer board 6mm, Viking 4mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, #3 straight blade used This was my first try doing a traditional pattern, it took me about 30 hours to do with a fretsaw. Came out pretty nice (though the photo isn't).
  21. True. The longest cut took me about an hour with the fretsaw. Doing the cut, however, is only half of the deal. I'm somehow unable to do 90 degree cuts, most of the time I'm slightly off, so the cuts are angled. I can't simply lift the cut-out, I always have to wrestle it out gently, while fervently hoping that nothing breaks.
  22. "Norman Bates" 30,5 x 41,5cm, backer board 4mm, Norman 4mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a #1 blade. Check out the hair. Those are some scaaary long cuts.
  23. Yes, but it's really hard to find stuff that is barely usable (like 1 sheet out of 10), and it's also risky to use because at 4mm overall thickness the veneer is very thin and likely to break off just for the heck of it. I'm doing a more intricate pic right now, so far the veneer has chipped in seven places. But I make the best of it, as I have no other sources for the wood (and couldn't afford it even if I had).
  24. "Contemplating life" 30cm x 20.5cm, backer board 4mm, Donald backer board 4mm, Donald 6mm, 'cheap' DIY store ply, done with a #3 blade.
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