JonH

I now know why it's called "fret work". I was doing a lot of fretting.

Thanks JT. Now I just need to locate some of those needle drill bits.

See that Loc-line kit 40413 is on Amazon for under $10 and includes two hoses, three nozzles and two different mount fittings (1/8" and 1/4" NPT thread). Thinking I will get a nice little piece of maple and tap it for the 1/8" fitting and mount that to the accessory bar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006R9O3HE/?coliid=I1L6S9X3KRF0PM&colid=3SDWSF4F8ROVV&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Still very new to scroll sawing and I like this little hummingbird pattern as a fairly simple project. However, the cut line at the shoulder has me baffled. If I drill in a starter hole to get the blade in, I either have a cut line with a round drill hole or try to make the line the same width as the hole I made. Suppose I could make it more of a teardrop line. But really, how could I match the pattern? Scan 20240214_0009.pdf

I was also gifted a Hegner 22" that has that hose set up as well. Just started using it and the little workpiece hold-down arm I decided was in my way. I'm guessing you could possibly mount a flexline adapter (like the wooden one Sycamore67 had) to that post. I may try something like that but will have it blow left to right since I have a magnetic LED lamp on the right side.

I was just excited to get the replacement part (motor to arm connector rod) for my Hegner Multimax V-22 and ready for some work. A niece had a birthday pending and I wanted to get something special done for her. She loves the shore and ocean, so found this pattern from Steve Good's site. I have a tendency to jump into things whole hog and this really did test and develop my skills in a hurry (first scroll saw project). Was especially worried as I used a plank of Lowe's 1/4" birch ply and some practice cuts on a hummingbird pattern had me wondering if the top piece was going to explode on me. Went through 2 dozen Advanced Machinery #3 reverse double tooth blades on the two top layers. Used up a few #5's on the easy third layer. Simple spray on coat of Watco lacquer. Pretty sure I went through most of those blades because of the slow pace of my cutting. Think I spent about 8 hours on the top piece. I think spiral blades may have been more appropriate, but I ain't there yet.

Your work touched on some fun memories. I worked on Phantoms at two overseas duty stations. Of the many different airframes I had the opportunity to work on, they were my favorite and most challenging. Nice work Ron!

Greetings all! Just retired a couple weeks ago. Was gifted a 1994 Hegner Multimax-22V five or six years ago. Had hoped to get it up and running (and figured out) in time for some Christmas gifts. I didn't do enough research before hand and built a nice wooden stand for it. The stand looked and worked great with the Hegner at rest, but put power to it and it was walking all over the place. Replaced the casters with 1.5" of laminated MDF that would be screwed down to the concrete garage floor, and triple reinforced all of the half-inch birch plywood. That stand is much sturdier now, and easily 100 pounds or so. After screwing it down to the concrete floor there is no vibration of any part of the tool except for the table, which is a problem. I can use it effectively at 1500rpm with the table vibrating very little. Still need to figure out how to dampen it further. The table tilt pivot points are secured so not sure what else I can do. The vibrations are really bad 800-1200rpm and 1600+rpm. Any suggestions?