Phantom Scroller Posted June 4, 2016 Report Posted June 4, 2016 Well I started by changing the blade to a 1/4" blade did all the adjustments cut off the back cut out the shape cut the front & back off the draw cut out the shape for draw and stuck it all together well the was the easy bit the hard bit was cutting around the corners and cutting a straight line. So I am now seeking advice is it the right width blade 1/4 " how do you stop the blade from jamming on the corners and what the heck am I doing wrong to cut a straight line. Roly lawson56 and don watson 2 Quote
Forester Posted June 4, 2016 Report Posted June 4, 2016 Nice one Roly is that for keeping your money in !! Lol Phantom Scroller 1 Quote
don watson Posted June 4, 2016 Report Posted June 4, 2016 I like this but I haven't a clue how to cut them. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote
lawson56 Posted June 4, 2016 Report Posted June 4, 2016 From what I can see,It looks Great. I have only used a Bandsaw a few times.that was years ago. Sorry Roly. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote
Phantom Scroller Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Posted June 4, 2016 Nice one Roly is that for keeping your money in !! Lol It would have to be smaller than that Ed. Forester 1 Quote
Dan Posted June 4, 2016 Report Posted June 4, 2016 Looks great Roly. I know what you mean about the corners. I learned on my first box to make the corners with a larger radius. And forget the straight lines. It looks cool when the drawer front is wavy. I plan to try an 1/8" blade on my next box. amazingkevin and Phantom Scroller 2 Quote
Jim Finn Posted June 4, 2016 Report Posted June 4, 2016 I am no expert at making band saw boxes. I have made about a dozen.... but just this year. I used 1/4" blade and cut 1 1/2" deep drawers. This made a long sweep on the sides of the drawers. I used a brand new blade and fed very slowly. I use a re-saw fence to cut the backs off and drawer fronts and backs. Slow down feed rate to gain control on curves or on straight cuts. I have used a 1/8" blade to get tighter turns but I found sanding those tight turns a problem. Also, on my 14" band saw I found tracking a problem with the 1/8" blade. I went back to the 1/4" blade and longer sweeps. Sharp blade, slow feed rate. amazingkevin, Phantom Scroller and Scrolling Steve 3 Quote
amazingkevin Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 Band saws out of the box need drastic tuning.?The blade needs to be loaded forward so when you pull back on your project it doesn't come off the wheels.Tension tension tension Well I started by changing the blade to a 1/4" blade did all the adjustments cut off the back cut out the shape cut the front & back off the draw cut out the shape for draw and stuck it all together well the was the easy bit the hard bit was cutting around the corners and cutting a straight line. So I am now seeking advice is it the right width blade 1/4 " how do you stop the blade from jamming on the corners and what the heck am I doing wrong to cut a straight line. Roly is the key with band saws like scroll saws .Cut purposefully but oh so slow in corners an straight lines,It's basically njust like the rules for a scroll saw but even slower as it's worse than a chain saw for eating wood or bones.Relax.I've been babying my chinese band saw till i can up grade. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote
Phantom Scroller Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Posted June 5, 2016 Band saws out of the box need drastic tuning.?The blade needs to be loaded forward so when you pull back on your project it doesn't come off the wheels.Tension tension tension is the key with band saws like scroll saws .Cut purposefully but oh so slow in corners an straight lines,It's basically njust like the rules for a scroll saw but even slower as it's worse than a chain saw for eating wood or bones.Relax.I've been babying my chinese band saw till i can up grade. Kevin the bandsaw !4" one is a beast beware your fingers. I use it to cut up all my tree trunks and never used it for fine work, this is the first time and I am please with the output but not the workmanship everything is bigger and bigger errors. Roly Quote
Lucky2 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Posted June 5, 2016 Roly, you should be using a 3/16" blade, 1/4" is just a bit to big. To cut a straight line, you use the same 3/16" blade, and you feed at a slow rate. Some people will cut the straight lines using a straight edge, I've never liked doing it that way. I like this little box, the live edge really sets it off. Len Phantom Scroller 1 Quote
Clayton717 Posted June 7, 2016 Report Posted June 7, 2016 looks great Roly. something I have been wanting to do. Quote
EarltheScroller Posted June 7, 2016 Report Posted June 7, 2016 I use to do those. Agree with the 3/16" blade. I do straight cuts just like the scroll saw--feeding very slowly so I almost anticipate when it is going to go off the line and make the adjustment before it does so. My saw was never accurate enough do use a resaw fence, so just fed slowly and "steered" the wood constantly to keep it exactly on the line. Nice box. I would sure be happy with it. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote
Phantom Scroller Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Posted June 7, 2016 Thanks Earl and everyone I knew I could count on the forum to come up with good advice so I'll get a 3/16" 10 teeth per inch as Len said before and dress the back of the blade and take it slow. Thanks All. Roly Quote
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