Wood fuzz on backside of work!

[lew]

I have been getting alot of fuzzy wood shavings on the back of my work. I can sand them off but confused why it is happening. 

I am very new to scroll saw work, but am practicing quite a bit and watching numerous videos.

I have been using some blades that I purchased quite a while ago...Delta blades .070 width, .010 thickness and 14 TPI.

I have been using 1/4 inch poplar wood from Home Depot.

Is it my technique, blades, or something else.

Thanks to all in advance!!

[Roberta Moreton]

I you use reverse oath you can diminish some of it.  I just sand it

 

[new2woodwrk]

I had and sometimes still do have the same issue.

What I am noticing is that better blades decrease the amount of fuzz.

I use Pegas blades and am just crazy about them - try using a reverse blade which should help.

I've used Olsen, Flying Dutchman (both really good blades) as well as box store blades (which are of significantly lessor quality) and the Pegas are so much easier to use - they actually make me think I can get better at this scrolling thing LOL

BTW, I am very new to this as well so you're not alone

Also, I just started using one of those small butane torches for removing the fuzz - works really well - HF has them for like $15 or something

Edited March 4, 2018 by new2woodwrk

[dgman]

Fuzzies on the back side are inevitable. You can minimize them by using reverse tooth blades. These blades have a small section of teeth facing up at the bottom of the blade. These up facing teeth help clean up the fuzzies, but can not eliminate them entirely. Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades do the same thing but are configured differently. They have two teeth facing down and one facing up the whole lenght of the blade. But, reverse teeth blades come with a little more effort when cutting. The reverse teeth want to lift the wood off the table on the upswing so you have to hold the blank down a little more firmly. You wil  get used to it after a while but just something to expect. 

Even with reverse tooth blades, you will still get fuzzies. Some woods will be worse than others. You just have to get used it and plan on sanding. Some folks use a mini butane torch to burn off the fuzzies. I have never tried it, but I do know you have to be very careful not to burn the project. 

[lew]

Thanks to all..good advise

 

[Dan]

Some of the big box stores' plywood can be inferior to the specialty stores. I remember buying Luan and was very disappointed with the fuzz and splinters. Cheaper plywood is ok to practice on but if you want to make nice quality items I recommend purchasing good quality ply. 

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Dan said:

Some of the big box stores' plywood can be inferior to the specialty stores. I remember buying Luan and was very disappointed with the fuzz and splinters. Cheaper plywood is ok to practice on but if you want to make nice quality items I recommend purchasing good quality ply. 

Also, regarding luan, I was practicing on some that had come out of my motorhome. I had saved it for whatever might come along. I ended up using it for practice and I found that it was almost toxic for me. I became very congested over it. I bought a face mask for that reason. I learned my lesson.

Ray

 

[amazingkevin]

On 3/3/2018 at 2:05 PM, lew said:

I have been getting alot of fuzzy wood shavings on the back of my work. I can sand them off but confused why it is happening. 

I am very new to scroll saw work, but am practicing quite a bit and watching numerous videos.

I have been using some blades that I purchased quite a while ago...Delta blades .070 width, .010 thickness and 14 TPI.

I have been using 1/4 inch poplar wood from Home Depot.

Is it my technique, blades, or something else.

Thanks to all in advance!!

scroll reverse blades don't do this .Both sides are very clean of fuzzys,This is one of many why I love reverse tooth blades!

[lew]

Skip tooth reverse blades or regular reverse blades....any thoughts??

 

[dgman]

Most reverse tooth blades are skip tooth blades with the bottom few teeth pointing up except for FD UR blades which are explained above.

[olddust1]

I regularly use a pencil butane torch to sing the fuzzes first and then sand.

I also use the torch to sing the front of cutting to give additional character to the work.

 

John

Old Dust

 

[heppnerguy]

smaller blades with many teeth seem to have less fuzzies but  take longer to make the cuts and if you are  way too small of a blade for the thickness or hardness of the board, you might experience more difficulty staying on the pattern lines.  I use a small awl to raise me fuzzies to the surface and then sand them off. I stiff tooth brush for artificial teeth can also often get rid of a lot of fuzzies.. Part of the fun

Dick

heppnerguy

[Dan]

If you still have troubles with the fuzzies here's something else that works. Try a Braun electric shaver. It doesn't need to be new and I see them at the thrift store a lot. If you beef up the voltage with a few extra batteries you can get better results. The back side of your work will be smooth as a baby's butt. 

[spirithorse]

Dan,

Thanks for helping out. If I can't afford batteries or a Braun electric shave, can I use my wife's discarded disposable razors?
I think they are Gillette.
God Bless! Spirithorse

[lew]

Thanks for all the informative and sometimes comical responses!!  Lots of good folks here with a great sense of humor!! I changed to reverse skip tooth Olson blades and the problem is gone!

Thanks

Lew