new2woodwrk

I like this idea, but I don't think I have enough room to hang up the pieces - I am going to look though and confirm Thanks for the suggestion

Normally I do not paint most of my work - there are pieces here and there that get a specific color either dipped or brushed, or a stain here and there, but not much more than that. However, we are working on a new item x3. Each unit has 13 pieces to it before putting it together. I am currently painting 4 sides of one of them (Front/Back/edges x 2) with Krylon X2 white followed by clear spray acrylic. But it seems like there is a better way and I haven't been able to get to it. I paint one side, let dry turn over and paint other side x 13 pieces! I'm painting more of my hands than some of the pieces LOL Any suggestions on a more effective way of painting 13 pieces, all 4 sides? I do have spray guns but that doesn't seem any better an alternative to a spray can which I can just throw away when I'm done. Thoughts? Thanks as always in advance

I don't consider not finishing the back of a piece half *ssed - sorry! I have a limited edition Giclee on canvas by a very well known artist whose frame is "half *ssed"! To each his own.

I have purchased hardwood samples - they came in a box and were less than 3 ft long. I have however, purchased plywood online and it came on a truck with a lift and forklift to remove. Just before I found my local mill, I looked into purchasing lumber online from mills. The price was reasonable as long as I was willing to wait for a full load to go to shipment. They minimized shipping costs by loading a full flat bed so shipping was very reasonable - as I remember it was less than $50 for 160 board ft (12x16 boards planed) If I remember correctly these were mills around the Virginia area - it's been awhile and I no longer have the links - sorry

Thanks all, great stuff this... While I may or may not agree with most, the cupping/warping is a valid concern. However, if you have any commercial grade or fine art works, take a look at the back of the art/frame. More often than not there is a sheet of paper or other material covering the back edge to edge. If you remove a small area of that paper, you will notice the frame is not as finished as the front on some. There is definitely a finish of sorts, to arrest any weathering of the frame and art work, but it is more often than not, a lessor finish as the front.

As always I'm not with the "crowd" I prefer the black myself but both look great

Geez, you always do such nice work! Love the color selections

I've had a discussion with another scroller about finishes on pieces that are hung - wall hanger, portraits, picture frames etc. So my question is: If/when you make these items and apply your finish, do you make the finish on the back of the item (the part against the wall) as equal quality to the part that is not against the wall? Thanks as always in advance.

Nicely done. Question about your process... You cover the front with a double layer of packing tape, then at the end, you run the item through your planer to take off the packing tape? Couldn't you either Peel/sand or heat the tape off? My concern would be to cut too much off the front since you've already planed the back. Thanks in advance

We've been asked if we make anything other than animal puzzles and wall hangers. Besides the lamps and clocks and now signs, we've decided to add some limited edition art work. We've so far done 5 different items which we made 3 of each except the Beach Lady - she's a single item. The frames and backing on these items feature a pine frame and a salvaged door backing both made from re-claimed wood from various Hurricane Michael pieces retrieved and donated after the storm. Some of the frames feature an Ogee edge, some are Chamfered and some are simple squared off. There are a few that have been stained but they're not done yet. Because there is only so much of this wood, we're offering it as a limited edition item and we're looking for a local charity to which we can donate some of the proceeds. Anyway, thanks as always in advance

LOL, I'm almost giddy about it but I finally made an outfeed "table" for my table saw. I've been putting this off for years now, mostly because I wasn't sure how I wanted to make it, and I didn't want to drill holes into my table saw - heck the thing cost $500 and I'm NOT going to drill holes in it! I also don't have any more room for more carts in the shop. BUT, I had an epiphany... I have a cart that I have a small pancake compressor on but I never added the handle. I also had a table top I made for the trailer which I only used once. Put 1 unfinished cart + 1 unused table top + 1 clamp and VOILA!!! I have a rolling outfeed table on the compressor cart! And best of all it just so happens to be 1/16" below the edge of my table saw LOL - too much! Here are a few pics - sorry for they blurry, not sure why I can't take decent pics anymore - must be my shaking hands Thanks as always in advance for reading

I just put a piece of acrylic on my top with dbl sided tape and drilled a hole. Simple, easy peezy!

Oh you poor soul, how will you ever get over it Feel free to send some to me, I'll use it!

Nicely done. Is that on this site? I'm not seeing that pattern nor do I see a "Pirate area" which I have been looking for

Every stand I've made for my shop is on wheels including the scroll stand! I use 4 lockable wheels on all the stands. Makes my shop very flexible!

Where exactly do you want the plexiglass? - In front of the bottom open area? If so, I suggest Upholstery tacks - you can get all sorts of different types/designs - put one in each corner

Wow, so many nice clocks and incredible works as always. We do clocks as custom orders, here are a few that we've done.

We tried staining, but the trails remained. Not a fan of painting my wood stuff yet - once I start I can imagine customers pestering me to start painting more stuff I did try a little heat, it just smeared the glue. The problem remains that if I use a more powerful sander I can get the trails out, however using a sander such as a belt sander starts to take away too much wood and those wood pieces are already very thin

There was a thread a few weeks ago (not sure where it is), that suggested using/cutting up hollow core doors to be used as backing for ss art. I thought to myself since I was working on some non-puzzle artwork..."Hmm, self - let's try that" and I just happened to have an old hollow core door in my shed taking up valuable real estate! So, I proceeded to break it down. I only cut a single section as a trial and here are the results Breaking down the main section - easy peasy with a circular saw and edge guide Once broken down the 2 sections need to be separated - I used a utility knife. Thought of using a hack saw but since the middle of the door is cardboard, the knife worked ok. Problems became apparent at this stage, The cardboard is glued to the wood - very strong glue and getting the cardboard off proved very difficult. So much so that it needed to be sanded Sanding - with a hand sander and then a rotary sander started with 220 grit - nope, went down to 100 grit - a little better but the glue left "ant" trails on the wood At this stage I have about 1 hour into the process and IMO this is far from worth the effort just to get a backing on a piece. If there was some quicker method of removing the glue trail, perhaps but otherwise, too time intensive. However, there are 2 sides to each piece and one side has no glue trail. Problem for me is I do not want to sell an item that has a built in "mar" to it. If anyone has any suggestions, please comment - to make this a viable option the process has to go faster and those glue trails need to disappear completely Here then are pics: This is the artwork and the door piece Separated Piece Cardboard removed - glue trails left behind I tried to 'stain" the glue trails out but it didn't work After this, I'm going back to the BB for backings Thanks as always in advance

I agree with @barb.j.enders - compound cuts is what I would with them as well. What are you using to resaw - bandsaw, table or other. You could get a few more a std 2x4 is 1-1/2 inches by 3-1/2 inches. if cut it 3/4" widths, then 11/16th you should get 6 units per board - think I have that right. NOTE and fyi: with the price of wood today, I no longer buy pre-cut sizes 1x1, 1x2. Instead I buy a 2x4 and cut it on my table saw. Saves me quite a bit of money and doesn't take that much time.

Glad to hear all is well again. You have been missed

Aren't most things illegal in Califnornia? LOL

I asked the same question here when I first started and got the exact same answers! So, off it came and when I get a new saw that is the first thing I do... Remove the thing!

Agree about the sad world of today, I had lawn darts as a kid and I'm still alive. Today, the kids would probably stab each other with them. Anyway, the ornaments... My suggestion: Disclaimer in the packaging. Many of my products have small pieces, and not meant for infants or toddlers. But each item I package comes with a full disclaimer about the size of parts. When adults by my products for children, the first question I ask is "Are they beyond the putting in the mouth age?". This helps to direct them to more appropriate products. Not having any children myself, I always find it fascinating how EVERY child is "smart for their age", "very good with puzzles", "very talented'". If that is so true, why do we have so many problems with children these days LOL - oh well. Disclaimer everything!

I am a HUGE Beatles fan ever since seeing them on Ed Sullivan! Great job with those, I would love to cut them but never seem to get time to cut what I want anymore. Thanks for sharing