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Everything posted by new2woodwrk
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NEED SUGGESTIONS FOR A COUPLE OF ON GOING PROBLEMS
new2woodwrk replied to heppnerguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I use cut up boxes for not only spraying finishes (I have 2 different types of finishes and 2 different boxes) I cut the lip off one side to make it easier spray and "look" at the unit I'm working on. I do the exact same thing for spray glue! To make life easy, I stack the boxes large to small - Large = spray box for wall hangers, Med = spray box for puzzles, small = spray box for adhesive I line the adhesive box with paper towels and let the adhesive build up which forms a solid interior in the box That's how I handle the issues anyway -
My saw has thrown a rod or something. New saw time?
new2woodwrk replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Ok got it - I have this page marked! Thanks a bunch!!! Ok cool - thanks for the explanation - much appreciated!! -
My saw has thrown a rod or something. New saw time?
new2woodwrk replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Ray are you talking about the video where he takes the top of the saw off and turns the rod one turn? -
My saw has thrown a rod or something. New saw time?
new2woodwrk replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Thanks @jerry1939 questions: 1. I'm assuming you mean the top arm covers where the on/off switch is? 2. Where to file a groove in the rod? 3. The bolt - are you referring to what they are calling the Eccentric bolt that has that counter weight on it? Thanks again for suggestions - I too really like this saw! -
My saw has thrown a rod or something. New saw time?
new2woodwrk replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
The chuck heads for the Delta do not have a tension lever. The hex heads and lock nuts do not tighten enough and there is a lot of side play in the heads more than there was with the original chuck heads. Also there is a lot of side play in the arms that hold the chuck heads both top and bottom. But I believe that is normal. I have tested all the hex heads and lock nuts for tightness and they are pretty much factory tight except for the Pegas heads which are now tighter. -
My saw has thrown a rod or something. New saw time?
new2woodwrk replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Thanks Ray - there is no local market for these things but I will do my best to stay away from Chinese stuff. I do think my Delta was made in china though LOL -
My saw has thrown a rod or something. New saw time?
new2woodwrk replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I don't believe that to be the problem. I'll explain... I had the thing apart and put one side back together so I could run power through it to see if I could "see" what was banging. The lower rod was not even close hitting anything and from what I could tell the upper rod was not making any racket. I could be wrong on the upper arm and I will check that out as well as the fix you describe. I did tighten up the pegas chuck heads and that seems to be a significant part of the problem. They don't really tighten all the way - there remains a bit of play in them. I have greased them and tightened as tight as I could without breaking my hex wrench. It is better, but still not as quiet as I would like -
Last few days my saw (Delta 40-694) sounds like it has thrown a rod or something (if any of you know what that sounds like in your car). BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG!!! I've taken it apart and greased the one bearing/bushing I could get to and greased the bushings/sleeves for the pegas chuck heads. It has quieted it down somewhat, but I'm afraid after 5 years this saw has seen its last cut Since these saws are now on back order/not available I'm thinking of going with either a Dewalt 788, or upgrading to one of the higher end saws like a Pegas or Seyco. I guess most of you feel the new Excalibur are not worth the money but that is also a consideration as the price is competitive to the dewalt now. Dewalts are running around $550 which has been the price for awhile now. The Excaliburs are running very close to that price for refurbished around $700 or about $900 new (21") but I can get a refurbished/renewd for $550 and free shipping The Jet series is probably not an option for me AFAIK it's about 100-200 more than the Pegas or Seyco saws and 300-400 over the excaliburs I'm very open to suggestions and recommendations at this point - either how to get rid of the rod knocking or which saw I should consider. I am putting a lot of time into the saws these days so that is a critical decision piece. Thanks as always in advance
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Mine are making a god awful noise, so I applied grease to the bushings. Seems to have quieted them down but still sounds like my saw has thrown a rod LOL
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I know right? It was in the 30's last Saturday at our Market - man we were freezing our butts off. Interestingly, people still came out!
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I love your yard/patio! Did you build that yourself? Is it a quasi pole barn? Oh and the sign is nice to LOL
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I'm in the keep both category as well I have 2 saws since the wife is now cutting and we have set them both up to do different things which expedites our cutting projects tremendously and makes our process more efficient! Unless you need to recoup that $300, then I would sell the Delta and keep the dewalt
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Too funny! We won't/wouldn't be parking in walmart parking lots unless absolutely necessary. There are other places to park without being harassed. In fact, some of the venues I've spoken to would allow us to park overnight in their lots! The RV community is an interesting group of people and seem very welcoming to new comers and ideas. Plumbing and electrical are all part of the RV - plumbing you need to deal with black and brown water at a dump station - no biggie since many parks have them The thing with electrical is everything runs on batteries - we are working on setting our current trailer up with solar panels and a few batteries for the summer and winter months here. In fact, many of the vendors in our small community have offered to pay a price to sit in our trailer once we have the A/C LOL and just yesterday it was really freakin' cold and a few asked if our trailer was heated! $5 for 15 minutes should help with the overhead LOL
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I've looked at both, interesting when doing so I found toy trailers that expand! I really like those, and there are quite a few available used in my price range! Still not liking the idea of having to sell my current items though, and still have an issue with on hand inventory. But I'm working through that as well The thing of it is, this project may be "feasible" but how practical it is may be a completely different story!
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It would be and yes I am. Good thought! The "toy trailer" and my current trailer option, allows the rear ramp to fold down and create a working platform outside the trailer which would work during warmer climates/temps. Clean up would be a broom and blower (I have small pancake compressor) For colder climates/temps my thought are... They have these Trailer tents that go in the back of SUV's or Pickup trucks. I would enclose the ramp in one of those with a small propane heater which I currently use in the shop as well.
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That picture looks like it has a 5th wheel attachment no? maybe I'm not seeing the attachment correctly? isn't the bottom pic (layout) a ball and hitch, the top a 5th wheel?
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@kmmcrafts yeah, I've looked at this type of trailer in the past, There is just enough room in a mid size to roll in a ATV and of course you can put the back down as a platform, However, I have not seen one that can be pulled without a 5th wheel which again requires sale of all our existing vehicles. Not to mention, once you load up with the minimal tools, there will be very little area for inventory. As to camp grounds, there are actually other places to park/rv without going to an actual RV camp, Many are free open sites, where you can pull in, setup a generator and shop and produce. I have a few links for these types of sites if you're interested. often they are off the beaten track which allows for hiking and outdoorsy things
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Yeah, I've thought about outfitting a toy trailer as well and am still rolling this idea around - it's a good one! But it will have to get part of it "fitted" as a living trailer also... Bed, kitchenette, shower/bath, fridge, heating and cooling. All that cost a bundle and we'd have to sell off our current trailer, and both trucks to get a truck big enough to tow that monster! Our current thought is go with what we have since it's all paid for and buy an expanding trailer - and as for "never stop talking", yeah after 30 years and her being the worst navigator/co-pilot you've ever relied on, it's going to be much easier with me leading the pack LOL. Um, she has a very difficult time reading a map and always reads it upside down (right is left, left is right forward is back etc. Sheesh! That's an idea for sure! Thanks!
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I saw @Hawk 's post about rving, and well we are starting to gather information regarding this possibility. Our scenario is a bit different, but I would like to get some input and ideas from others. We have 2 trucks - 1 a pickup we just purchased hauls our inventory trailer, the other is going to haul our sleeping trailer (expanding trailer). our truck with the inventory trailer will also be loaded with most of our equipment, generator, gas etc but scaled down slightly - 1 drill press instead of 3 LOL etc. What we are considering is the ability to go on the road, visit various craft shows along the way and sell if we can. Park for a few days, replenish our stock and hit the road for the next event/venue. We're thinking of this as our ultimate retirement plan and the last leg of our journey together.and getting back to a simple life Feel free to offer your ideas if you'd like
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Hey @Hawk I know this is an old post, but did you ever figure this out? My wife and i are considering something similar but a bit more involved and are starting to gather information.
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I feel your pain... I do similar with every new pattern I cut. I tend to simplify a bit though. Once I have the board ready for prepping I start the clock and stop when I;m done Next is separating, next is profiling, then cutting, then sanding, then dipping and/or finishing then packaging, then uploading for sale. Each phase is timed, written down and then entered into my spreadsheet to get the cost and sales numbers for the unit I can't help myself, I'm lost with out knowing detailed information1
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another + for the HF one - In fact I have 2 one at each saw station!
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I think they look incredible. As for the frame finish, if you look at Asian art works and furniture, the finish is always an ultra-high gloss finish. It's almost an Epoxy like finish. I've gotten fairly close to that type of finish once, but it took almost 12 coats of poly gloss!
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I have and still do both - spray cans and spray finishes I think Kevin is right on the money, Production is always slowed when using a sprayer and the clean up can become a real PITA. While I like the finish of multi-coats of poly, the 24 hour wait time between is a real production bottle neck. I realize you don't have to wait 24, but there is a marked improvement in the finish by waiting the full 24 before applying a 2nd coat. Right now, I'm still on the Acrylic spray with the deal I got on 12 cans for $5 each! I still keep a full supply of poly in my shop for "special" items though when I don't mind the clean up (I have the clean up minimized to a few minutes - Mineral Spirits spray out + soapy water spray/clean out works great)
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I've been experiencing a lot of blade failure lately as well. I have dozens of Pegas MFG #3 which I have been using exclusively all year for my stuff. I cut 3/4 poplar and basswood and notice the blades are not holding up as long as they have in the past. I was thinking it was the wood and perhaps I was getting more dense wood which I do sometimes get, but the more I cut the more I think the blades are not being produced to the same quality they were previously- My wife is noticing the exact same thing. We used to be able to cut 4-5 puzzles or 3-4 wall hangers with one blade, now we're lucky to get through 2 wall hangers before cutting with the grain become unbearable and find ourselves pushing way too hard just to get the cut done.
