OCtoolguy Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 This is something that I know must have an easy fix but I thought I'd toss it out there anyway. On my Ex 21 saw, the table top is like new. I have waxed it a couple of times with Johnson paste wax. I am in the process of cutting some compound cuts that require taping pieces together. What I find is residue gathers around the hole in the table from the tape, or from the shipping labels that I am using. I think it's coming off the tape though because it doesn't show up until I start cutting the parts after taping. My question is, what am I doing wrong? Is there a reason that this is happening? I am using 3m tape so I know it's good quality. How do you folks address this problem. Or are you having this problem? I'm curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 36 minutes ago, octoolguy said: This is something that I know must have an easy fix but I thought I'd toss it out there anyway. On my Ex 21 saw, the table top is like new. I have waxed it a couple of times with Johnson paste wax. I am in the process of cutting some compound cuts that require taping pieces together. What I find is residue gathers around the hole in the table from the tape, or from the shipping labels that I am using. I think it's coming off the tape though because it doesn't show up until I start cutting the parts after taping. My question is, what am I doing wrong? Is there a reason that this is happening? I am using 3m tape so I know it's good quality. How do you folks address this problem. Or are you having this problem? I'm curious. I do not do compound cutting so can not address the tape issue. I would suggest you take some sandpaper and round the edges of the blade hole. The sharp edges maybe catching the tape in cutting into it somewhat. That is about all I got on that one. Good luck. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 2 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: I do not do compound cutting so can not address the tape issue. I would suggest you take some sandpaper and round the edges of the blade hole. The sharp edges maybe catching the tape in cutting into it somewhat. That is about all I got on that one. Good luck. Thanks JT. I don't think that is the problem though. The residue is all around the hole and the edges are already smooth. I'm going to try another style of blade and see if that helps. Not sure what is the problem but it's messy. The wax keeps it from being really stuck though so I know that helps. It's just something that has popped up and I thought I'd ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 I’ve never done compound cutting either but my DeWalt would do this sometimes when stack cutting as I use tape to hold the stack of boards together. Not sure why it does it but makes it hard to spin the wood on that sticky table OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredfret Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 You are getting some "fuzzies" and the edge of the blade hole is catching them. For compound cutting I glue straight to the wood or tape the wood then glue straight to the tape (blue Painters). OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 5 minutes ago, fredfret said: You are getting some "fuzzies" and the edge of the blade hole is catching them. For compound cutting I glue straight to the wood or tape the wood then glue straight to the tape (blue Painters). Thanks Fred, that makes sense. I am using shipping labels and they work great. It's only after I apply the box tape that I seem to have trouble. I will try the blue tape and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 What about shelf paper? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 Ray, the whole purpose of using any type of tape is to help lubricate the blade to help prevent burning. It could be that the label paper in conjunction with the clear packing tape is to much. I don’t know, I may or may not be right. When you apply the tape, you need to burnish it to the pattern. I use a small block of wood to do that. Take out all the air bubbles between the pattern and tape by rubbing it with the edge of the block. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted October 8, 2018 Report Share Posted October 8, 2018 What kind of blade speed you run on these? I'm wondering if the blade getting hot and sort of melting the tape / glue... I've never had this issue with any of my saws other than the DeWalt.. and it never happen very often even on that saw.. but would from time to time.. My other saws I don't run the blade speed quite as fast mostly due to the fact that the max. speed on the other saws is slower than the DeWalt.. Now I realize you'er using the Excalibur and they don't have a very fast speed either but I'm also assuming your cutting thick wood? I don't know.. just thinking.. it could be blade speed and or the wrong type blade for the job that is creating heat to melt small portion of the tape.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Good thoughts Kevin. I'm cutting3/4 x 1 1/2 cedar. I'm trying to run the saw at a moderate speed. Not fast. I am very aware that cutting the tall side is going to generate more heat so I am using a #7 PS Woods blade to help clear out the kerf. I'm going to try an Olsen double reverse #7 tomorrow to cut the half in walnut. I'm almost done with the cutting on this critter. Then it's just the sanding and finishing before finally assembling it. I'll post a pic or two when it's presentable. Thanks to all for your suggestions. kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hey Ray, it’s best to not use a reverse tooth blade as it wants to pack the sawdust up into to the wood. A skip tooth blade is best. For compound cuts I always use an FD Polar blade, which is a skip tooth configuration with longer and sharper teeth. OCtoolguy, JTTHECLOCKMAN and John B 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 14 hours ago, dgman said: Hey Ray, it’s best to not use a reverse tooth blade as it wants to pack the sawdust up into to the wood. A skip tooth blade is best. For compound cuts I always use an FD Polar blade, which is a skip tooth configuration with longer and sharper teeth. Thanks Dan. I have been using some of the blades that I got with the saw. They are PS Woods and not reverse. I used a #5 on the thin wood and on the compound cuts I've been using a #7 and even a #9. They cut quite well but once I get through the first cut on the tall side, I have to tape the piece in place to do the other cut. That is when the residue shows up around the blade hole. It's not a big problem but I thought I'd ask others if they have the same experience. I can't use blue tape because I wouldn't be able to see the pattern. Thanks for your input on the blades though. I guess I'm going to have to order more blades. I don't have the FD Polar blades in that size range. I bought all the small sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Ok Ray, are you not using a jig to hold you blank while cutting? If so, you do not have to tape it back together as the clamp jig will hold it together. Mine have a sandpaper lining to hold the blank. Unless of course your jig is no as thick as your blank. If that’s the case, make a jig as tall as the thickest part of the blank. Tighten real tight. You won’t have to tape the blank together again. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 9 minutes ago, dgman said: Ok Ray, are you not using a jig to hold you blank while cutting? If so, you do not have to tape it back together as the clamp jig will hold it together. Mine have a sandpaper lining to hold the blank. Unless of course your jig is no as thick as your blank. If that’s the case, make a jig as tall as the thickest part of the blank. Tighten real tight. You won’t have to tape the blank together again. I did make a jig but I guess I didn't think about it holding everything together. I'll give that a try. Thanks again Dan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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