Dave Monk Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 I have been using my new to me saw for a couple of days and I have a couple of issues with it. Intermittently it sounds like the bottom clamp is hitting the blade guard but it is not. It doesn't usually start doing it while it has been running.......starts as soon as I push the foot pedal. Sometimes it quits in a few seconds, sometimes it continues. Sounds like it is happening at the top of the stroke. Everything in the front seems tight and no play. My bottom clamp is also bending my blades like a hockey stick when I tighten it. I have taken the bottom thumb screw out and lubed the tip. Any ideas would be appreciated. tomsteve and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
Roberta Moreton Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 (edited) The hockey stick is caused when the set screw and the thumb screw don’t meet in the center of your blade clamp. Because it is the bottom clamp, I usually sit on the floor so I can see. Back out the thumb screw and see where the set screw is, then just adjusting until centered. The only hard part about this is getting back up off the floor. Can’t help with the noise. Edited December 6, 2018 by Roberta Moreton Dave Monk, tomsteve and OCtoolguy 2 1 Quote
WayneMahler Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 The hockey stick is due to the lower clamp adjustment. The knocking noise, could be a worn bearing. Had that issue when mine was under warranty and Ray got me straighten out. Take the blade out and gently move the arms to detect any play if you find any you probably found the issue. Really hard to describe, but a call to Ray at Seyco will be very helpful. Do you have the manual for it Dave ? It will be helpful also. If you need the manual I have electronic copies I can send you. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
ejay Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 Dave, long time lurker here. Not sure if this will help, but I had the same problem. On the back of the saw there is a nut that holds the tilt mechanisim from slipping. Mine had come loose and was causing the tilt mechanism to ever so slightly move. You can tell by grabbing the tilt wheel and trying to turn it when in another setting besides zero. The table should not move. Ed tomsteve, Dave Monk and OCtoolguy 2 1 Quote
Dave Monk Posted December 6, 2018 Author Posted December 6, 2018 1 hour ago, WayneMahler said: The hockey stick is due to the lower clamp adjustment. The knocking noise, could be a worn bearing. Had that issue when mine was under warranty and Ray got me straighten out. Take the blade out and gently move the arms to detect any play if you find any you probably found the issue. Really hard to describe, but a call to Ray at Seyco will be very helpful. Do you have the manual for it Dave ? It will be helpful also. If you need the manual I have electronic copies I can send you. Have one thanks OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Scrappile Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 The "hockey stick" end can also be the tip of the wing nut not rotating. It should move fairly easily. Started having that problem on my QuickClamp on my Hegner just yeaterday. I took the knurled knob out, clean the tip and put a drop of 3in1 oil on it. Wiped it good and replaced it. Fixed the problem. The knocking problem,, I would call Ray at Seyco. I bet even the lady that answers the phone could help if Ray is not around. Could check YouTube also, lots of info out there. But, a call to Ray would be quicker and probably a lot less trial and error... Dave Monk and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
MrsN Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 Just last night my Excalibur was baking a slight knocking sound. I figured out that it is the guard on the bottom of the saw rattling and hitting the table. I haven't had time to figure out how to fix it yet, but hopefully it will be easy. OCtoolguy and Dave Monk 1 1 Quote
tomsteve Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 is the upper arm parallel with the table? Dave Monk and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 That dumb guard rattled on mine too.. and I moved it this way and that and it would stop for a bit but then must have vibrated back or something... The last time I moved it it hasn't rattled since.. because I move it far away from the saw and in a box of parts that'll go with the saw if I should decide to sell it one day, LOL Roberta Moreton, meflick, OCtoolguy and 1 other 2 2 Quote
Dave Monk Posted December 6, 2018 Author Posted December 6, 2018 2 hours ago, tomsteve said: is the upper arm parallel with the table? Yes. OCtoolguy and tomsteve 2 Quote
Dave Monk Posted December 6, 2018 Author Posted December 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Scrappile said: The "hockey stick" end can also be the tip of the wing nut not rotating. It should move fairly easily. Started having that problem on my QuickClamp on my Hegner just yeaterday. I took the knurled knob out, clean the tip and put a drop of 3in1 oil on it. Wiped it good and replaced it. Fixed the problem. The knocking problem,, I would call Ray at Seyco. I bet even the lady that answers the phone could help if Ray is not around. Could check YouTube also, lots of info out there. But, a call to Ray would be quicker and probably a lot less trial and error... Talked to Ray this morning. He didn't think it was a metal sound. He said there was a bellows in the bottom tube that had no purpose that maybe that was it. This is the first piece of used equipment I have ever bought. Kicking myself now. Quote
OCtoolguy Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 6 minutes ago, Dave Monk said: Talked to Ray this morning. He didn't think it was a metal sound. He said there was a bellows in the bottom tube that had no purpose that maybe that was it. This is the first piece of used equipment I have ever bought. Kicking myself now. Come on now Dave. You bought a "used car" and there are little things that might not be like a new one. Take your time and once it's all ironed out, you will be very happy. Sort of like kids. You gotta work with them to make them what you want. Sorta. tomsteve 1 Quote
Dave Monk Posted December 6, 2018 Author Posted December 6, 2018 1 minute ago, octoolguy said: Come on now Dave. You bought a "used car" and there are little things that might not be like a new one. Take your time and once it's all ironed out, you will be very happy. Sort of like kids. You gotta work with them to make them what you want. Sorta. Paid $625 for it......It wasn't a bargain. I would rather be making something than tinkering with a saw. I think I have only bought three used vehicles in my life. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 1 minute ago, Dave Monk said: Paid $625 for it......It wasn't a bargain. I would rather be making something than tinkering with a saw. I think I have only bought three used vehicles in my life. Hey, I feel your pain. I guess I'm different. I would feel cheated if there wasn't something for me to fix. I like doing that. It also helps me to understand just how the saw works. What makes it tick so to speak.. I hope this all works out for you Dave. I know you are frustrated at the moment but you'll be happy in time. Take a breath. Or a shot of tequila. Whatever. Quote
scrollingforsanity Posted December 7, 2018 Posted December 7, 2018 New saws have there unexpected problems as well. I worked on my New Seyco when I got it for several days going back and forth with Ray at Seyco. Finally got it ironed out and am very happy. Would have much rather spent those days making sawdust but it all worked out. I hope you get your issues fixed quickly and back to scrolling. Ray should be able to help you get it going in no time. My EX21 was knocking and it was the motor cam. I had to replace the motor cam and all the linkage. I believe this is a rare occurrence though. You can take the plate off the left rear side with the three screws in it and make sure nothing is hitting and that the motor cam is tight. Good Luck grizz Oregon OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Dave Monk Posted December 7, 2018 Author Posted December 7, 2018 5 hours ago, scrollingforsanity said: New saws have there unexpected problems as well. I worked on my New Seyco when I got it for several days going back and forth with Ray at Seyco. Finally got it ironed out and am very happy. Would have much rather spent those days making sawdust but it all worked out. I hope you get your issues fixed quickly and back to scrolling. Ray should be able to help you get it going in no time. My EX21 was knocking and it was the motor cam. I had to replace the motor cam and all the linkage. I believe this is a rare occurrence though. You can take the plate off the left rear side with the three screws in it and make sure nothing is hitting and that the motor cam is tight. Good Luck grizz Oregon I am returning it to the guy that sold it to me on Sunday and get a refund. I will let him deal with the issues. I told him if he gets it fixed I will go ahead and buy it. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
rjweb Posted December 7, 2018 Posted December 7, 2018 Wow I didn’t think once you buy a used saw off Craigslist that they would take back, that was a real gentleman. Lots of luck with it, maybe you should just buy another Hegner saw, RJ OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted December 8, 2018 Posted December 8, 2018 2 hours ago, Dave Monk said: I am returning it to the guy that sold it to me on Sunday and get a refund. I will let him deal with the issues. I told him if he gets it fixed I will go ahead and buy it. I'm curious. Is he going to meet you half way again or do you have to go all the way to Waco? Quote
OCtoolguy Posted December 8, 2018 Posted December 8, 2018 Here ya go Dave. It's a bit of a commute but SUCH a deal! https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/d/hegner-multimax-scroll/6734332997.html Quote
Scrappile Posted December 8, 2018 Posted December 8, 2018 Dave, I really sorry this didn't work out for you. Maybe for the best, even if you got this fixed you would probably always be expecting something else to go wrong. Take the fun out of having it, for you. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Richard Cobos Posted July 27 Posted July 27 I bought my 24" excalibur a long time ago, probably in the 80's. It was advertised as the WORLD'S best scroll saw in Fine Woodworking magazine. I was very pleased with it, with how easily I could turn my workpiece at the tiniest of radius and with thick hardwoods. I cut multiple patterns of stacked woods at a bevel angle, so the interchanged pieces fit perfectly together. Great for marquetry. But then came children, I was able to make a living as a woodworker as a single person, but with a family I suddenly found myself reading Fine Homebuilding instead. I put a crew together and built houses for the next 30 years. My woodworking tools sat idle for all this time. The only shop tools that came in handy were my Delta unisaw and a 12" cross cutting tilting mitersaw. I soon after retired and moved to a warmer state, moved my shop and found myself hiking, kayaking, and playing tennis. . I'm approaching 80, haven't touched my woodworking tools all this time and am now in the downsizing stage. So my question is, what price should I put on my 24" excalibur scroll saw today. I probably paid $1000 back then, I realize there are many scroll saw manufactures today so the demand is less and it would sell for a whole lot less. I would appreciate some opinions on this before I list it. Thanks Quote
OCtoolguy Posted July 28 Posted July 28 Knowing the market and availability of used saws, in good shape, $150. Quote
kmmcrafts Posted July 28 Posted July 28 I agree with Ray.. One thing to note too is that most any parts for these real old Excalibur saws are mostly nonexistent.. unfortunately so it's likely a buy and use saw until something breaks and then it might just be a throw away. Quote
rjweb Posted July 28 Posted July 28 Wow this was an old post by Dave Monk, where has he been lately haven’t seen any of his projects posted in quite a while, RJ kmmcrafts 1 Quote
Scrappile Posted July 28 Posted July 28 Dave, is a very busy man. I feel bad he does not post much here anymore, but I follow him on FaceBook. He continues to make his beautiful pieces of art. MarieC 1 Quote
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