OzarkSawdust Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 (edited) I thought I saw someone mention "tuning" a King, Excalibur, etc. for a more or less aggressive cut. Something about twisting the motor one way or the other. It looks to be in the middle of the slots from the factory. Anyone out there able to tell me what a more or less aggressive cut would mean to me? And how to adjust it to..."newbie mode" ? Thanks! Edited October 9, 2019 by OzarkSawdust OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 3 hours ago, OzarkSawdust said: I thought I saw someone mention "tuning" a King, Excalibur, etc. for a more or less aggressive cut. Something about twisting the motor one way or the other. It looks to be in the middle of the slots from the factory. Anyone out there able to tell me what a more or less aggressive cut would mean to me? And how to adjust it to..."newbie mode" ? Thanks! I did this: I have a small 2" square but you can use a square block of wood. Place it behind the blade and up against it. With the power off find a way to rotate the motor shaft so that the blade goes up and down one cycle. This will tell you how much the blade moves forward and backward. Loosen the bolts tha hold the motor in place so that you can turn the motor. Keep checking the blade movement and try to get it so it moves as little as possible. That would be the least aggresive. You can actually remove the 3 bolts and move the motor to the next slot if you have to. It's not hard to do this adjustment. If I haven't made myself clear, just say so and I'll try to help. You can also do all this with the motor running on the slowest setting and "eyeballing the movement of the blade. OzarkSawdust 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 4 hours ago, octoolguy said: You can also do all this with the motor running on the slowest setting and "eyeballing the movement of the blade. I do it that way, and also have a block behind the blade while the motor is running. Nudge the block forward and see how much it kicks back @OzarkSawdust The more aggressive the motion of the blade, the harder it is to make sharp turns, at least in my experience. Of course it does cut fast that way. Not really a tuning tip, but I set my saws (ex-21) speed at 3/4 or a little higher. In my experience I get better cuts, feed the work slowly and the multiple times the blade moves up and down seem to reduce the fuzzies on the back a lot. OCtoolguy and OzarkSawdust 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 I think this info is in the manual but to add to what Ray and Jim said.. Your very first step should be to make sure the upper arm is parallel with the saw table.. I found it hard to measure with a tape measure so I used some wood blocks I cut.. actually some scraps, LOL.. I place the block under the arm and slide them down the length of the upper arm and adjust the rear knob until I have the arm parallel.. Then proceed as Ray mentioned.. Oh, a flat blade screw driver should work to turn the shaft on the motor.. at least my saw has a notch for this purpose.. I do it that way to get it close.. but I also have just turn the saw on with the speed at the lowest setting.... If I remember correctly it seems like the arm is right about 2-3/4 inch above the table so some blocks around that size to put under the arm is about what you'll need.. On my saw I had to remove all the bolts that hold the motor and spin it to the next set of slots.. then it's spun all the way to the max again before it got to the point it was as close to straight up / down motion as it could get.. I even took them out again and spun to the next yet set but that made it go back to very aggressive again.. so I moved it back.. The least amount of movement in the blade the easier it is to make nice crisp sharp turns etc.. but it will also slow down your cuts on the straight cuts too.. BTW, once that upper arm is parallel.. you should never need to mess with that knob at the back of the saw again.. However.. some saws will move that knob on their own over time.. If you do not have a mark on the knob ( some saws had a white line on the knob) you might want to reference the approximation of where that mark is located so if it does move you have an idea of where it should be.. My saw didn't have a mark on the knob.. I used a paint marker and made one.. also made a dot on the upper arm to line up the line I made.. Tape works too for marking if you don't have a paint marker.. OCtoolguy and OzarkSawdust 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brokentone Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 I was looking at that adjustment feature before I decided to buy the Delta. I may be wrong but I can't see how it can change the blade angle as that angle is fixed by the pivots at the blade end of the arm. I believe that rotating the motor may adjust the length of the stroke. I found that by cutting into a 2" thick piece that the blade was contacting the top first, I filed back the slot in the upper blade holder until the blade contacted the center first as the blade arcs through the stroke. With saws of that design there has to be more back and forth movement of the blade than in the Hawk type saw because the pivot point is so much closer to the blade. Bob OzarkSawdust and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 49 minutes ago, Brokentone said: I was looking at that adjustment feature before I decided to buy the Delta. I may be wrong but I can't see how it can change the blade angle as that angle is fixed by the pivots at the blade end of the arm. I believe that rotating the motor may adjust the length of the stroke. I found that by cutting into a 2" thick piece that the blade was contacting the top first, I filed back the slot in the upper blade holder until the blade contacted the center first as the blade arcs through the stroke. With saws of that design there has to be more back and forth movement of the blade than in the Hawk type saw because the pivot point is so much closer to the blade. Bob By turning the motor you change the position of the link rods that connect to the front portion of the saw clamps end.. The motor shaft where it connects to the crankshaft is off center so that's what creates the push / pull movement of those link arms.. by turning the motor you change where that push/pull on those link arms.. so you're able to line the link arms up parallel to one another at the front end of the saw.. which makes a straighter up / down on the blade.. Not sure that make sense at all to anyone.. but I sure understand it myself, LOL With the short arms at the front of the saw.. you'll always have some forward / back movement or rocking motion.. but you can tune the saw to make that motion to be very little or a whole lot.. depending upon your cutting style and preferences.. OzarkSawdust and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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