Brokentone
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Everything posted by Brokentone
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I have cut quite a few signs from trex, they are very good outdoors. There does not appear to be dust, where I normally see dust I find heavy saw chips must go slow or the piece may weld back together or the blade weld in the slot. I do wear a mask even though there doesn’t appear to be any dust. At my 86 years I don’t think I have to be to concerned about long term effects. The sign in the picture is probably 10 years old outdoors. Bob
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I have cut some intersecting word name signs from trex, one has been outside since 2015 and looks as good as new. I don’t think it would be good to cut on cnc as it requires a very slow blade speed. If I cut at a fast speed the blade welds to the material plus the cut welds back. I have not yet tried to glue up to make a board wider than 5 1/2”. Bob
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I don’t use it often, yesterday I decided to make an intersecting word sign, as soon as I started cutting I new it was not going to go well because the pattern started lifting immediately. I had used shelf liner for the first time on this material, lesson learned. Here is the result, still need to do the ends not decided on design. Tanks for the kind words Bob
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‘8I have used Trex deck boards for outdoor signs. Pros are after it is cut it is done (no finish required), stays like new indefinitely, there is no fine dust when cutting, blade life is pretty good I guess because of the oil in the material. Cons are it is heavy, need to tape backside (this is recycled material and I found something’s that can scratch table), cuts slow I use the lowest speed on my hawk, if you cut fast it will weld back together, I just found out today that shelf liner does not stick well enough use blue tape. The last pieces I bought were about 53. for a 16’ 1x6 solid edge. Bob
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This was from a pattern request that was fulfilled by Travis, Thank You. Maple plywood, 2/0 Pegas mgt Bob
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Have any of you tried Pegas super skip blades for compound cutting? I need to order some blades and was wondering how these would perform, thank you for any help you can provide. Bob
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Possibly something is stuck in the chuck not allowing blade all the way in to the stop, if you put something behind the blade and cycle it up and down you will be able to see if it is the top or the bottom that is causing this. Good luck Bob
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From what I have read is that a leak will disrupt the cyclonic action and allow the dust to get to the vacuum Bob
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Looking for opinions on table saw - See update above
Brokentone replied to ben2008's topic in General Scroll Sawing
.Unless you need a portable saw I would repair the Jet, most parts that go bad are fairly inexpensive. Bob -
I had the type 1 that I had bought used and did the service on it, the bearings were made in USA and Japan. When I took it apart most of the bearings still had adequate grease in them. I lost that and many other items to hurricane Florence. I bought a New Delta, not as good as the dewalt did a bunch of tuning to make it better but still not up to par. Was planning to buy Pegas when 20 RBI ultra showed up near me and meets all my needs at a much lower price. I studied the pegas trying to figure how they change the aggressiveness and came the conclusion that it is done by changing the length of the stroke. The arc of the blade is not changeable in that design so a shorter stroke will have less for and aft movement. Bob
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I would love to have that pattern to. Make for the coffee bar at my church. Ahappy and healthy New Year to All Bob
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Discouraged On Dust collection Piping.
Brokentone replied to Dave Monk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I did buy some 6” from Lowe’s that was green it had thin wall don’t know if pvc fittings will work with it. I think the pvc would work fine . -
Discouraged On Dust collection Piping.
Brokentone replied to Dave Monk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I have bought 6” pvc from Lowe’s they had in stock, if no luck there any plumbing supply would have. -
Spin off of the "23GA Pin Nailer" thread
Brokentone replied to FrankEV's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I have an upholstery staple gun that shoots 26g staples that range between 1/4” and 5/8” . I had not ever thought of it for stack cutting but think it might be the best option? Will have to order some staples for it, -
I don’t know about fire but in hurricane Florence.noting in the garage was covered. Insurance people. Say a garage is for cars. A tool shed would be covered. Bob
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Thanks for the locline size, that Festool vac sounds like living room quiet. My system is 95D with the saw running with no blade noise but is barely heard with work tunes. My oldC raftsman shop vac is 105D. Bob
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The vac is metro vac. Les I cut an angled hole in the platform installed 2 8-32 threaded rods to hold the cyclone into the hole sealed it with Lexor caulk, the cyclone matches the taper in the hole but is not perfectly round. The bottom of the cyclone is extending into the container about 3/4” the container is 6 1/2” dia 6” deep and is held up under the platform with 2 1/4 rods seat the top of container to the plat form with a layer of rubber tape. I had only cut those ornaments with #1 and #3 when I checked the filter at that time it was lean as new. Rolf good suggestion on the trap. Is your locline 1/2 or 3/4? Kevin you are correct in that is not quiet enough, I have to wear my work tunes. I believe that the majority dust that gets into the air is from the blower the dust from the bottom seemed to mostly fall on the table.
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Thanks Gents, The pattern is a fairly recent Steve Good my wife loved it, had to make a bunch. RAY I used 1” pvc from the cyclone to the clear vinyl from Lowe’s it has about 1/4” wall thickness and 1 1/4 Id. Had to work on it with a heat gun to get the kinks out 1” tee then 3/4 out tee. After those pics I cut a ring to go over the intake of the vac with tabs to hold the vac to the platform with 1/4” threaded rod similar to what I have holding the drum under cyclone. I think I will get 3/4 locline for above table and make a funnel for below. I made a muffler but I think it has too much back pressure have to redesign will wear the work tunes till I get to it. If you need any more pics just let me know. Bob
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I just finished a Dust collector for my 220 ultra using some hints L I got fro this forum. And some of my own. I am quite pleased with the result. I used the metro as, small cyclone and 6”pvc coupling for the collector.After cutting there was no dust on saw, just a few chips and no dust in the air. It kept the line clear. Pics show the condition after cutting those bb plywood ornaments there was no dust under the table as was usually. Need to get better pickup above table
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Thanks for the offer, as of now the 220 is purring like a kitten. I had a dewalt type 1 from Canada that was good until Florence, I repaired it put new bearings in motor then the circuit board quit so I got a Delta which was no where the quality of the dewalt , I picked up this 220vs hawk and am pretty pleased with it. They all seem to have some good features but all different. I probably have about 30 hours running the hawk and find I have much better control cutting small letters. Bob
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I just put the aluminum block with the counterweight in it back on. While running the motor I could feel the knock again so I loosened the screws and no knock I then tightened and loosened a few times while it was running until I found the right spot with no knock.
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I had removed the motor and was turning it by hand and felt a slight rattle or knock near the drive end of motor, the saw was quiet when not under any load. I removed the pitman arm with impact driver, there is a hole in that aluminum bearing carrier if you turn the shaft there is a hole in the steel part in which there is a 1/4 20 set screw which takes a 1/8 allen wrench. It would not budge after tapping so thinking it had Loctite I heated a pin punch to a bright red and put into the screw after a few applications of this it loosened easily. It did have a thread lock on it. After all this the bearings felt smooth as silk the brushes and armature were barely broken in which was a pleasant surprise. The worst part of this whole job was getting the screws that hold the motor together as the magnets pull them away from where they need to be. Ran the motor outside of the saw sounds good. Next will reinstall. Will drop in some blue Loctite. Hope this info will help someone in the future. Bob
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Thank you Rolf, I had the motor off and could feel slight spot in bearing while I rolled it in my hand. I am concerned with rounding out the allen. I guess if tapping broke it loose there was no Loctite, I will give it a try. I lived in St James for 35 yrs then Mattituck for Seven yrs now New Bern NC Used to enjoy Bellport playhouse. Bob
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Has anyone changed out the bearings in a hawk ultra motor, it has developed a rattle and I have determined it to be the bearing next to the crank. It appears that the crank is held to the motor shaft with a 1/4 20 allen head set screw which does not want to loosen. Does it have locktite on threads? On shaft? Seems like a simple repair if I can remove the crank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bob
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Thank you Don, I have tried to get that font into inkscape for about a year. FINALLY successful. Bob
