Goat Posted November 5, 2020 Report Posted November 5, 2020 Hello all, I stack cut 2 pieces of 1/4 BB ply yesterday and ran into some issues I haven't had before. I have only done a few patterns with BB ply, so my knowledge isn't the best. So my 2 problems are I was having a real had time with blade drift (I did check and re-check tension) and when I removed my patter/tape it pulled up ALLOT of the wood. I use my favorite Olson #5 Reverse Skip blade. The tape is the HD Clear Duck brand from menards. I've used all this stuff in the past few projects I've done and never had these issues. I actually stack cut 4 piece of 1/4 BB with the Olsen #5 and didn't have this issue. I've also stacked 4 1/4 of Aspen using that blade and didn't have any problems. I applied the tape/pattern the day before cutting. The tape was bought the same day, so shouldn't be old. The BB was a piece sitting in the garage for about a year, not temperature controlled, but its dray and hardly ever opened. Is there a better Olsen (this is what menards has in stock, so I prefer this brand) blade for stack cutting 1/4 ply? I'd like to stack 4, but I could live with 3. As for tape, would that blue painters tape work better? I just feel that wouldn't stick very well. I'm about to try some tough patterns I just purchased and would hate to see the tape pull off all that wood again. They are all around 300 cuts, which I'm thinking will take me 3 days each (I'm slow). Thanks OCtoolguy and John B 1 1 Quote
scrollerpete Posted November 5, 2020 Report Posted November 5, 2020 I would recommend go with either Flying Dutchmen or Pegas blades, also I would go down to #3 for BB, my preference will be FDUR #3 or Pegas Modified Geometry #3 reversed. For FlyingDutchmen you cannot go wrong with “Mikes Workshop” and for Pegas Denny is your man from this site. I used either green or blue tape or if you can a brad nailer works great. Goat and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
John B Posted November 6, 2020 Report Posted November 6, 2020 I'll 2nd @scrollerpete. Blue tape, I make a reverse doughnut out of the tape tap to stick the stack together. Holds well and comes apart easily. On thicker pieces a few pins in the waste areas does the trick. Goat 1 Quote
Fedido Posted November 6, 2020 Report Posted November 6, 2020 while I havent stack cut, I can tell you that Flying Dutchman ultra reverse #3 and #5 are my two blades I use the most. The only time I change is whether it is hard or soft wood and how thick. Just my way. I also use painters tape to prevent burning, which isnt what you asked, but seems to hold pretty good. tomsteve and Goat 2 Quote
Goat Posted November 6, 2020 Author Report Posted November 6, 2020 (edited) 18 hours ago, scrollerpete said: I would recommend go with either Flying Dutchmen or Pegas blades, also I would go down to #3 for BB, my preference will be FDUR #3 or Pegas Modified Geometry #3 reversed. For FlyingDutchmen you cannot go wrong with “Mikes Workshop” and for Pegas Denny is your man from this site. I used either green or blue tape or if you can a brad nailer works great. I never even thought of the brad nailer. I actually have one for trim work. Not sure I have anything small enough on hand, I think the smallest I have is 1". But if I nail from the bottom it could still work. When you say go down to a #3, do you mean for the stack or just a single sheet of 1/4 BB? Thanks Edited November 6, 2020 by Goat Quote
scrollerpete Posted November 6, 2020 Report Posted November 6, 2020 2 hours ago, Goat said: I never even thought of the brad nailer. I actually have one for trim work. Not sure I have anything small enough on hand, I think the smallest I have is 1". But if I nail from the bottom it could still work. When you say go down to a #3, do you mean for the stack or just a single sheet of 1/4 BB? Thanks #3 blades Goat 1 Quote
Goat Posted November 6, 2020 Author Report Posted November 6, 2020 4 hours ago, scrollerpete said: #3 blades Good call on these blades. They work allot better than the #5, which is my go-to blade. Thanks for the suggestion. The nailer also worked great. The blue tape is pulling up wood just like the other tapes I've tried. I'm just adding an extra to the stack and won't worry about it. John B 1 Quote
tomsteve Posted November 8, 2020 Report Posted November 8, 2020 On 11/6/2020 at 10:47 AM, Goat said: I never even thought of the brad nailer. I actually have one for trim work. Not sure I have anything small enough on hand, I think the smallest I have is 1". But if I nail from the bottom it could still work. When you say go down to a #3, do you mean for the stack or just a single sheet of 1/4 BB? Thanks i use brads and typically run into times i dont have the right length. what i do that is clip off whats sticking out the back then run the back across my belt sander. for me,#3 works best for a triple stack of 1/4". theres times ill got to a #5 but it depends on the pattern and how intricate it is.however, i think the glue and other stuff can dull them rather quickly. Goat 1 Quote
Goat Posted November 9, 2020 Author Report Posted November 9, 2020 23 hours ago, tomsteve said: i use brads and typically run into times i dont have the right length. what i do that is clip off whats sticking out the back then run the back across my belt sander. for me,#3 works best for a triple stack of 1/4". theres times ill got to a #5 but it depends on the pattern and how intricate it is.however, i think the glue and other stuff can dull them rather quickly. God idea. What I did was nail from the bottom and snipped the nails off. Bad thing was the damage the nails do pushing through the wood. I think I have them far enough out that the damage won't show, but one of them is very close. tomsteve 1 Quote
tomsteve Posted November 9, 2020 Report Posted November 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Goat said: God idea. What I did was nail from the bottom and snipped the nails off. Bad thing was the damage the nails do pushing through the wood. I think I have them far enough out that the damage won't show, but one of them is very close. something i have to do is have some scrap to set the stack on when nailing. sometimes i have to pry it off but it helps to stop the tearout. Goat 1 Quote
danny Posted November 10, 2020 Report Posted November 10, 2020 I have given most all the methods for securing the wood and I say UNLESS there is not enough room using a pattern to apply just a Tiny Little Drop of Glue. Corners are a usual place. And I used the Blue tape like forever, but recently went to the Clear Shelf paper and I LOVE IT. Reason for changing is the Blue tape would here and there PULL UP THE WOOD FIBER. Hate this. Now No Problems. And my GO TO BLADE for 90% of all I cut is the FDUR#1 BLADE................. T.E.H.O. I guess.... Danny :+} Quote
Goat Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Posted November 11, 2020 (edited) Looks like I need to order some flying dutchman blades. I just wonder how many I should order. I like olsen because I can just walk into menards whenever I'm out and there isn't any downtime. Ordering online I'll need to plan ahead. The #3 olsen mach blades I'm having trouble with burn. I used the blue tape, but I have to slow it down to a crawl for it not to burn. At 5K RPM it barley wants to cut, 6 and above works great, but burns every tight turn. So I just used the #3 for all the tight turns, which in this project is about 80%. And used #5 for the rest. Anyone know if those collets on his site will fit a dremel? I have a good plunge setup for my dremel, but it won't hold anything close to the small size drill bits we need. I have a mini drill press, kinda regret it now as it won't reach the middle of pretty much any project I do. Edited November 11, 2020 by Goat Quote
Goat Posted November 12, 2020 Author Report Posted November 12, 2020 I'm ready to make a Flying Dutchmen order. Can you guys recommend which blades other than ultra reverse I should buy? I mostly cut 1" or less aspen, pine and some yellowheart for intarsia. Then of course 1/4" stacked BB ply, but you guys already told me which blade for that. Thanks! Quote
scrollerpete Posted November 12, 2020 Report Posted November 12, 2020 (edited) If you go to Mike’s Workshop he has a sample package that you might want to try, then you can see which blades work better for you. Myself I used onlyFDUR from #1 to #5. Edited November 12, 2020 by scrollerpete Goat 1 Quote
tomsteve Posted November 13, 2020 Report Posted November 13, 2020 hey goat- idk if those collets mike sells fit a dremel. i do believe lowes and home depot sell a set of dremel collets. thats where i got mine a couple years ago Quote
Goat Posted November 14, 2020 Author Report Posted November 14, 2020 Just wondering are you taping each layer in the stack? I just cut a 3 stack with only taping the top layer, got allot of burn on the bottom 2. Would a light sanding help or do I need to actually cut the burn out? Quote
Jim McDonald Posted November 15, 2020 Report Posted November 15, 2020 For burning and fibers pulling from tape, I run everything across a 240 grit sanding mop. I also use emery boards for fine work. Goat 1 Quote
Goat Posted November 16, 2020 Author Report Posted November 16, 2020 4 hours ago, Jim McDonald said: For burning and fibers pulling from tape, I run everything across a 240 grit sanding mop. I also use emery boards for fine work. I read a tip about sanding the boards. So I actually did sand the board I put the tape on and I was pleased with the results. There was some fibers pulled up, but very minor. I didn't sand or tape the other boards in the stack. Quote
Jim McDonald Posted November 16, 2020 Report Posted November 16, 2020 (edited) 16 hours ago, Goat said: I read a tip about sanding the boards. So I actually did sand the board I put the tape on and I was pleased with the results. There was some fibers pulled up, but very minor. I didn't sand or tape the other boards in the stack. I should have said I run most everything through the mop AFTER cutting. Get rid of fuzzies and pulled fibers from blue tape. Edited November 16, 2020 by Jim McDonald Quote
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