Marquetry Question

[Trapper John]

I am working on a marquetry project that includes crescent shapes.  Using the knife and window technique,  I am experiencing difficulty with the extreme corners; even when I succeed in my cutting I am experiencing breakage of these 1/2 inch pieces.L

The problem occurs when I go to remove the piece to insert in the background.  The "tail" of the crescent wants to break off.  Sometimes the very tip of the crescent is lost and is too small to replace.

I am using a #11 scalpel blade and the veneer measures .025 inches thick. I have tried a variety of techniques for cutting and part removal but so far the results have been kind of hit or miss.  I have even wetted the veneer with a water/mineral oil solution and put it through my veneer press as well. (I hoped that would reduce the tip breakage by softening up the wood fibers in the veneer.  No joy here, either.)

I have tried cutting with my DW788.  I have run with the speed set at 40%; I have used blades ranging from 2/0 to #5.  Reverse tooth, spiral, and "puzzle blades" have all seen duty.  The scroll saw devours the pieces even when I successfully follow my pattern.

At present, my options appear to be:

1.  Keep cutting using the window technique.  Learn as I go.

2.  Learn the correct blade size and saw speed for my scroll saw

3.  Identify the problem and ask for help.

Obviously I have selected the third choice.  Practice/skill improvement is obviously required on my part, but does anyone have a practical solution for me?

 

Edited January 9, 2022 by Trapper John

[Dan]

I don't do marquetry but I have cut thin (1/32") boards and found that I either had to stack them or sandwich the piece between two sacrificial boards to prevent breakage. For marquetry, I guess you would have to transfer the pattern to the sacrificial board to make the cut. Hope it makes sense.

[Trapper John]

Dan, that makes sense to me.  Traditional scroll saw cutting would involve making a packet comprised of layers of veneer with grains and tones properly aligned and sequenced.  That is essentially what you have described as I've interpreted your comments.  The pattern is applied to the top level of the packet, as you have surmised.

 

[xocd]

I typically reinforce fragile veneers by glueing some paper to the front of the veneer using hide glue, which is easy to remove with some water once the piece is assembled. (I have never been successful using a knife, though.)

xocd

[Trapper John]

Thanks for the tip, xocd.  Would veneer tape work as well?  As I understand your suggestion, using hide glue on the show face to adhere a paper layer for reinforcement would help in my situation.  Veneer tape might accomplish the same thing.

I have tried to achieve results with my DW788.  I've varied the cutting speed but no joy.  In an attempt to find my own solution I have put a bench pin in place and will try hand sawing with a coping saw.  If I like the results I'll post pics.

[rjweb]

john, keep us posted on your progress, RJ

[Jim Finn]

Have you ever tried "Double Bevel Inlay" with a scroll saw?  This is what I do.  It is pretty  simple to do.

Edited June 5, 2022 by Jim Finn