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Posted

I've tried to use 1/2" BB at least two times, one being this morning and it wasn't pleasant!
No matter what blade, speed or tension I had trouble following the line and circles were the pits.
Different batches of wood were used and these blades:
Olson #5  12TPI 9R
FD # 5  13TPI  7R
Olson #5 Mach Speed  13TPI 7R
As a last resort I even tried a Olson # 9  11.5TPI Skip Tooth

Never have problems cutting BB up to 3/8" but 1/2" isn't!!!
Anyone else like 1/2" BB to scroll with???

Posted

I've never used anything thicker than 1/4" BB.. That said I do quite often, actually most of the time staple / pin nail / or tape several pieces of 1/8 or 1/4 inch BB ply to do production type cutting. BBply with the glue etc in all the layers is touch on blades.. Most times I don't go more than 1/2" thick stacks.. ( ie no more than 4 layers of 1/8" or 2 layers of 1/4).. For me it gets pretty tough going anything above 1/2" - 5/8" stacks..

Sometimes a smaller blade will cut through faster than a larger blade.. A larger blade has to remove more material typically because the kerf is wider.. and it sometimes slows down the process. I rarely use anything above a #5.. most go to blade sizes for me is #3 and #5.. I typically use Pegas but sometimes FD UR does decent on BBply..

Posted

Hmmm, I wonder if the 1/2" is made different than two 1/4" or thinner BBply's .. I'm not sure of anyone on here using anything thicker than the 1/4 or maybe 3/8" Most common mention of BBply is 1/8 or 1/4.. I will say.. it's tough stuff and really hard on blades.. I use 1/8" and stack cut 4-5 layers at a time of Christmas ornaments and many times I have to use 2 blades and sometimes 3 just for a small ornament. But cutting solid timber like Cherry I can stack cut same amount and cut out 2 - 3 sets of ornaments, LOL.. crazy how that stuff dulls blades so quickly..  

Posted

I too have stack cut 2-- 1/4" pieces and cut using FD #5 silver Penguin blades. Basically the only blade I ever use. depending on the amount of cutting needed it make take a couple blades and yes the glue does dull the blades. But very easy to cut. The thickest material is always 3/4" red oak. That is my wood of choice. But again same #5 FD blade. To me I always was a FD blade guy and never tried Pegas blades and never want to. My Dad always said if it aint broke don't fix it. 

Posted

I have cut 3/4 baltic birch for puzzles and other things usually use a Niqua { I think that is flying dutchman) or pegas blade.  Both worked for me, I need a gentle feed into the cut, as pushing hard into the cut caused blade wandering. less burning with Pegas. 

Posted

Bought a sheet of 1/2" BB plywood along with a sheet of 1/8" BB and was given a sheet of 1/4" because it was pretty torn up all 5' x 5' sheets. The 1/2" is a real bear to cut, the FD Polar blades do a good job of cutting (I have no trouble following the line and such) but the blades wear out pretty quickly. 15 min per blade vs 30 minutes with other wood. When I made the "let it go" wing for the GF it took a lot of spiral blades to cut it (I had to reorder blades in the middle of the project).

When the 1/2" is done, then I'm done with 1/2" BB for good.

FYI when I cut the outside of the football plaques it's 2 layers of 1/2" laminated together, and it felt like the 1/2" stuff, I did go to a #5 Polar blade for the outside ( #1 Polar for all the side cuts ).

FYI #2 I tried Pegas blades about 2 years ago. I was comparing them to the FD blades. In my tests the Pegas broke much more frequently than the FD and I just could not make a tight turn with them. I am planning to test other blades again this winter so we'll see.  :) 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, Wichman said:

Bought a sheet of 1/2" BB plywood along with a sheet of 1/8" BB and was given a sheet of 1/4" because it was pretty torn up all 5' x 5' sheets. The 1/2" is a real bear to cut, the FD Polar blades do a good job of cutting (I have no trouble following the line and such) but the blades wear out pretty quickly. 15 min per blade vs 30 minutes with other wood. When I made the "let it go" wing for the GF it took a lot of spiral blades to cut it (I had to reorder blades in the middle of the project).

When the 1/2" is done, then I'm done with 1/2" BB for good.

FYI when I cut the outside of the football plaques it's 2 layers of 1/2" laminated together, and it felt like the 1/2" stuff, I did go to a #5 Polar blade for the outside ( #1 Polar for all the side cuts ).

FYI #2 I tried Pegas blades about 2 years ago. I was comparing them to the FD blades. In my tests the Pegas broke much more frequently than the FD and I just could not make a tight turn with them. I am planning to test other blades again this winter so we'll see.  :) 

 

Posted

It's possible my Dewalt isn't getting the blades tensioned enough. I max it out a little past the 5 on all sizes of blades and never broke one yet.  I took the cover off the tensioner but there wasn't anything to adjust.  I'll just steer clear of 1/2" plywood from now on...

Posted
2 hours ago, jimmyG said:

It's possible my Dewalt isn't getting the blades tensioned enough. I max it out a little past the 5 on all sizes of blades and never broke one yet.  I took the cover off the tensioner but there wasn't anything to adjust.  I'll just steer clear of 1/2" plywood from now on...

There is an adjustment for tension. Go to scrollsaw.com and there is a ton of good info on your saw and great pictures. 

Posted

I use a ton of 1/2 inch birch ply. The largest blade I've used is a #7 Olson. Usually a #5 reverse tooth is good for most all of what I do. Sometimes the #7 will make the veneer pop off if they haven't glued it together well at the factory.  I've also tried the Mach speed Olsons and it takes quite a bit of practice to get a straight line with them in thiner material. 

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