A couple basic questions

[FrankEV]

As an experienced scroller I know how I attach and remove patterns from my flat work that works for me.  However, I’m not so knowledgeable about what is the best way to do it for Intarsia or Segmentation work.  I’ve been using Krylon Easy Tack spray adhesive to attach the paper directly to the wood. If I don’t wait too long the paper will peel off easily.  However, as is often the case, I will have to wait a bit, and then it won’t peel off and I wind up using my belt sander to remove the paper and glue.  I know Mineral Spirits can be used to remove patterns, but I don’t like how it affects the wood color.  So, my question is: How do you all go about attaching and removing the pattern paper on the many varied small parts of the ‘puzzle’ pieces?

I also know that good patterns have the pieces numbered.  When you do remove the paper pattern for final sanding and sculpturing, do you (like I have been doing) transfer the number to the backside of each piece so you can keep track of where the pieces fit together using a copy of the pattern on the work bench? 

Thank you in advance for yor reply's.

[TAIrving]

Frank, you know as much about intarsia as I do.  Nevertheless, my thoughts are:

Yes, I do transfer the numbers to the back of each piece as I remove the pattern.

I use the usual methods for attaching and removing the pattern.  But I really do not worry about removing the pattern as each piece will be sanded/shaped, and I do not expect very much of the original surface to remain.  

Sometimes I use blue tape but sometimes I just glue the pattern directly to the wood and use MS to remove it.  The latter method works well on hardwoods, maybe not so much on softer woods.  

[ChelCass]

Perhaps this will help.  When I have pattern pieces that won't come off I use a hand held hair dryer to soften up the glue and usually the paper will lift off easily.  You can number the back of each piece (the easiest) or you can have a separate pattern and set each piece on it as you go.

[barb.j.enders]

I number the back of the pieces.  Or at least, mark the bottom side.  Not only to keep the pieces in the right place but to mark the side NOT TO SAND!  

As for attaching the pattern, I tend to still use shelf liner and attach the pattern to that.  I have some "scrollers tape" that I am starting to use, especially for small parts. https://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/scroll-saw-stick-and-release-tape-12-20-p-4418.html.    I have also used a hairdryer to soften the glue.

[Gonzo]

I spray the back of the pattern with 3M 77. I then glue the pattern to contact paper. I too do not like mineral spirits. 
I also number the back of the piece. 

[Scrappile]

I spray mine with the 3m77 and glue directly to the wood.  Used to use MS to remove the pattern, but recently learned that Denatured Alcohol works better. Releases the pattern quickly and does not leave glue residue behind.  I love it.

[trailfndr]

Clear shelf liner on the wood, pattern pieces spray glued to that, and clear packing tape over the top of it all.  Peels easily even after several weeks.  leaves no residue.  The tape is to hold down the edge of the pattern as you cut, and it also lubricates the blade making the blade last longer.  Always number the back of each piece 

[FrankEV]

On 10/28/2024 at 8:27 AM, TAIrving said:

... I really do not worry about removing the pattern as each piece will be sanded/shaped, and I do not expect very much of the original surface to remain...

This is what I have been doing.  I don't see any case where a piece does not need to be at least sanded and therefore, using the belt sander to remove the paper and glue is quick and efficient.  Clogs up the belt somewaht, but the belt cleaner helps with that.  

The Krylon Easy Tack is not quite as agressive as the 3M77 that I would normally use for my flatwork over shelf liner.  For Intarsia pieces, I spray the back side of the pattern paper and apply it directly to the wood just before I am ready to cut out the pieces.  I have to make sure the wood is dust free or the glue will not stick very well and I will get lift up as I'm cutting.  Learned that the hard way.   

I do appreciate all the replys and answers. Thanks

Edited November 7, 2024 by FrankEV

[Hawk]

I pretty much follow what a few here do, clear shelf liner, then after the piece is cut, number the bottom so I know which side is up (lol)