Allen levine Posted Wednesday at 07:25 PM Report Posted Wednesday at 07:25 PM The bed of my saw is getting grooves i make sure anything I scroll i sand the bottom first but I guess the boatload of hardwoods when a tiny piece comes loose it digs in and goes round and round any suggestions besides purchasing a new bed? I have waxed the bed to keep it moving but it's not sliding as free as it did since day one OCtoolguy 1 Quote
preprius Posted Wednesday at 09:23 PM Report Posted Wednesday at 09:23 PM I am interested in this solution also. here are my thoughts... 1) epoxy resin pour? 2) do you cut metal often? I do sometimes and clean up the small steel dust bits. I run a magnet around it. But cutting aluminum will just need wiping. 3) Sand down table using a nice flattened counter top with sand paper glued to it, like granite . This probably what I will do. 4) The removable plate blade area does look a bit cut up. I have found I have pushed too hard and the blade starts rubbing and I get metal dust embedded in my woodenpieces. Metal dust comes from both the blade and the cover plate. You have a replaceable metal piece or you can smooth this up to reduce future metal bits. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted Wednesday at 09:54 PM Report Posted Wednesday at 09:54 PM When I had my Dewalt it came with a very rusty table. I used rust remover and then 220 emery paper. I backed the paper with a good flat wood block. Once it was smooth bit still had swirl marks, I wiped the table down with mineral spirits. Once it was dry, a couple of coats of Johnson's paste wax. A couple of times a year was often enough. If I'm doing a lot of fine fret work, I tape a playing card to the area where the blade goes through the table. My saw didn't have the sacrificial throat plate. Quote
Allen levine Posted Thursday at 12:48 AM Author Report Posted Thursday at 12:48 AM I never cut metal but I think the hard woods when a tiny piece while cutting sticks out just enough to scratch surface but not hold up motion that's what's doing it im going to sand down I've waxed it a few times already like my planer jointer and table saw with bowling alley wax but that didn't stop the scratching OCtoolguy 1 Quote
preprius Posted Thursday at 01:01 AM Report Posted Thursday at 01:01 AM Another option: thin steel cover using counter sinks. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted Thursday at 03:34 AM Report Posted Thursday at 03:34 AM If it means that much in your performance than just take a block of wood that is flat and wrap some sandpaper designed for metal around it and have at it. That is the black sandpaper. And I would use some water or lemon oil to sand to lubricate it. If you want an orbital sander will help too. Then a coat of wood paste wax. Or you can make a auxiliary top from acrylic or BB plywood. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
DrPete Posted Thursday at 05:47 AM Report Posted Thursday at 05:47 AM I would do as others have suggested and grab something flat and start with higher grits and work your way down till you get a good finish. The surface looks questionable as to why this is happening. It is steel right? If you get stuck and it's not working you can look around for a company that has a blanchard grinder and ask them to refinish it for you. Might not be worth the money thou, probably costs more than the machine. Just a thought. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Solution Wichman Posted Thursday at 06:59 AM Solution Report Posted Thursday at 06:59 AM The table is not steel, it is cast aluminum. Care needs to be taken not to get to aggressive with the abrasives. When my table starts to feel rough I lightly go over the table with a 320 grit sanding sponge, followed by a wipe down with a blue paper towel and a light coating of paste wax. You're not trying to get a mirror finish or an original table back. Just a nice smooth to the touch finish with a light coat of wax. OCtoolguy and TAIrving 2 Quote
Allen levine Posted Thursday at 12:40 PM Author Report Posted Thursday at 12:40 PM Thanx for all replies I'll work on it OCtoolguy 1 Quote
scrollerpete Posted Thursday at 12:46 PM Report Posted Thursday at 12:46 PM Go to Amazon and search for magnetic plastic sheet, I have some on both my Excalibur for over 2 years worked great OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Scrappile Posted Thursday at 01:47 PM Report Posted Thursday at 01:47 PM 1 hour ago, scrollerpete said: Go to Amazon and search for magnetic plastic sheet, I have some on both my Excalibur for over 2 years worked great I don't think magnets work on a Hegner table. OCtoolguy and JTTHECLOCKMAN 1 1 Quote
Wichman Posted Thursday at 02:23 PM Report Posted Thursday at 02:23 PM They do not. Checked last night, sticks to the throat plate not the table. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Allen levine Posted Thursday at 04:09 PM Author Report Posted Thursday at 04:09 PM I took the finest pad I had and after cleaning with mineral spirits I lightly rubbed in the same circular motion as marks it cleared a lot of it up enough to feel much smoother and then I didn't any bowling alley wax(my fav form tool beds) but I have a can of paste wax so gave it two coats and finished the next project will post later thanx everyone Wichman and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
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