FrankEV Posted 16 hours ago Posted 16 hours ago (edited) My 7 5/8” x 15 1/2”, 67-piece, pattern was adapted from a pencil-line image that I found on-line by an unidentified artist. I did a lot of sculpturing on the pieces identified as the “Oral Arms”; to simulate the visual appearance I saw in photos of Jellyfish. Cutting the “Tentacles” was a challenge. Careful cutting resulted in a rather easy overall tight fitting assembly. I chose to mount the assembly on a 5/8” thick x10” wide x 17” tall plaque style backer. Wood used: Aspen, Beech, Bloodwood, Butternut, and Red Cedar for the Plaque. The completed piece was protected with multiple coats of a clear Semi-Gloss Lacquer Finish. Comments and critiques are always welcome. Edit: Pattern posted in Pattern Exchange PS: FYI, the Plaque was made three times. · First, I found a piece of ¼” thick Red Cedar that was big enough, but warped. I attempted to take out the warp by soaking, applying weight. Hoping to maintain a flat condition, I added a 1/4” thick BB Ply to the back side after it was dry. Unfortunately, this did not work well enough and during the cutting to size, clipping the corners and rounding the edges…let’s just say things did not go well. I wound up adding it to the burn pile. · Second, I purchased some Red Cedar from Lowes that was only 8” wide. I ran the rough sawn material through the planner, butt-jointed two pieces together, cut the panel to size, clipped the corners 2” x 2”, rounded over the edges on the router table and loosely placed the Jellyfish assembly on top to see how it looked. UGG! The bold vertical grain of the Red Cedar just looked horrible. Second piece to the burn pile. · Third was finally the charm. I was fortunate the remaining part of the piece of wood I had purchased was big enough to cut it up into three pieces that I, once again, butt-jointed together with the grain now horizontal. I used a lot of clamps and cross stiffeners to make sure it dried flat. Then, after the glue dried, I cut the panel to size, clipped the corners 2” x 2”, rounded over the edges on the router table, and did a lot of sanding with the Palm Sander to get a nice clean and smooth finish. The grain now gives the allusion of water…. IMHO, much better. Sometimes I must remind myself that I’m only human and if something can go wrong, it probably will! Edited 54 minutes ago by FrankEV barb.j.enders, ChelCass, TAIrving and 2 others 5 Quote
Mike Crosa Posted 14 hours ago Posted 14 hours ago Really nice work. As they say persistence, persistence. FrankEV 1 Quote
Fab4 Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago Hi Frank: Well done, have to agree with Mike's comment Your comment about the wood grain I quote "The grain now gives the allusion of water" This brings up a debatable subject. Should a backer be stained or painted. I know it all boils down to a personal preference but can't help but wonder on this one How would it look with a colored backer. Keep up the great work Frank, thanks for showing us. Fab4 FrankEV 1 Quote
FrankEV Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 2 hours ago, Fab4 said: ...debatable subject. Should a backer be stained or painted. I have done both a number of times. In my mind, not debatable, just a choice. When I have/want to frame a piece, I will often enhance the piece with a colored backer. I use a air brush most of the time to spray Acrylic paints or water soluable dyes. This is especially true when the backer requires a blue or green color and/or when the extended backer is BB Ply. In other situations where i use a better wood for a backer, especially a plaque type backer, I prefer to choose a wood the does not need to be enhanced by paint or stain. As I said, just a choice! Fab4 and barb.j.enders 2 Quote
barb.j.enders Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago That is another wonderful piece Frank. It has a nice floaty look about it. FrankEV 1 Quote
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