woodduck Posted March 3, 2014 Report Posted March 3, 2014 Just wondering if anyone can tell me why sometimes if I cut small pieces they come out tapered I have checked squareness of the blade with the table & have tried different tensions on the blades.I am using mainly 20 mm pine ,am I pushing to hard? Cheers Peter. Quote
LarryEA Posted March 3, 2014 Report Posted March 3, 2014 Peter, if the table is square then it is the blade. In my opinion, either you are using too small a blade or the blade is flexing because it is not tight enough. Use a thicker blade... Larry Quote
Wilson's Woodworking Posted March 3, 2014 Report Posted March 3, 2014 I had this problem in some lace wood I was cutting. I was trying to rush the cut and between the pushing too hard and turning at the same time I had to recut 3 or 4 pieces. Try slowing down and make sure your not putting a side preasure against your blade. Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 3, 2014 Report Posted March 3, 2014 Lots of times i catch myself pushing a little to much and forget to let the saw re adjust it's self by letting go of the material so it re positions it's self directly square to the table and blade.This happens often as the blades track one way or another and you just compensate for it unknowingly.But i've never looked or noticed if any of my thousands of cuttings have or had the problem your finding.Now on pine the grain of the wood causes me problems of not tracking and wandering off because of the grain.I love to cut pine but hate the problems with the grain. Always use a new blade if possiable to help with this .Some times i mark on the pattern where the grain veins are to slow down and watch closer to be prepared for the run away mind of it's own wandering. :) Quote
Bendita Posted March 3, 2014 Report Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Peter I cut a lot of Pine here its either pine or plywood that's all that's available and find with 3/4 pine or 20mm which ever you prefer the bigger the blade the best result I get, its like Kevin said the grain is just so coarse the blade tends to follow the grain so to compensate your more then likely pushing a bit harder and there for you'll and up with a tapered cut. I find if your curve your cutting is not to small I'd go with a #6 or 7 if your not cutting curves try a #9 for a perfect straight line. Hope that helps. .../Hans Edited March 3, 2014 by Bendita Quote
rjR Posted March 3, 2014 Report Posted March 3, 2014 They said it. I have discovered that lubricating the blade ( I use old actual wax candles--white leaves not traces in the wood. I just run the blade running into the candle stub.) and slowing the push down both help some. It is going to happen sometimes and you are pretty much stuck with it. An edge sander can fix some of it. You will see it more than most other people. We sawdust addicts tend to be our own worst critics! I sometime put the piece in the vise and use some detail files I have to straighten that out also>. Quote
trailfndr Posted March 3, 2014 Report Posted March 3, 2014 You are pushing too hard, and your blade is probably not as tight as it could be. Blade size does also make a difference. I cut a lot of intarsia, and I have learned that the slower I go, the better I cut. Saw speed does not make a lot of difference with the thicker wood, but feed rate makes a huge difference. I used to find myself pushing and that would send the blade into the angle you describe. SLOW down...take your time, and you will be fine. Clayton717 1 Quote
woodduck Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Posted March 5, 2014 Thankyou everyone for your input .I will try to ues the bigger blades where possible ,but some of my pieces are very small,I think I shall just have to slow down as you also mentioned. Cheers Peter. Quote
LarryEA Posted March 5, 2014 Report Posted March 5, 2014 Peter, if the blade you need to use is within the size of a # 0, #1, #2, #3 etc... Each size has a selection with a different arrangement or number of teeth. Try a differnet blade type in the same size... Quote
heppnerguy Posted March 7, 2014 Report Posted March 7, 2014 great advice here. I don't have this problem very often but I have to say that I have. I used to use smaller blades than I should be using because i thought it would be better to keep the gap betweent he pieces (in Intarsia), easier to glue up with less space between the pieces but the lesson I learned was using igger blades on thicker cuts really worked out the best. the blade following the grain brought out, to me, how sometimes a neumatic staple will sometime follow the grain and come out into an open area instead of into the adjoining piece, as intended, this sometimes being the staple following the path of least resistance, whic can be the influence of the grain. Dick heppnerguy Quote
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