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This is just the latest process that I'm using. It's constantly evolving and I'm looking forward to seeing any ideas from other scrollers that might improve on it. Getting new ideas and learning new tricks is something that I have always enjoyed about meeting other woodworkers and seeing their work. Applying The Pattern Affix your pattern to the wood. This is a Celtic cross design from Sue Mey that I like. Interior Cuts Make your interior cuts. I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of the wood. Then I cover the face of the design with a double layer of packing tape to use as a backer for the resin. Resin Dam I use common plumber's putty to build a (dam) around the design. Epoxy After trying many different brands. I found the Promise brand deep pour tabletop epoxy works best for me. I also use a digital scale to make sure that I get an exact 50/50 mix to the gram. Dyes & Powders I use Alumilite dyes and powders. Adding Color It doesn't take much of either. 1 drop of the dye and just a little of the gold and green powders. The amount of powder shown here is about twice the amount needed. Mixing When you are mixing. Mix the resin and colors slowly while scraping the sides and bottom of the container. Try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum. Pour Then slowly pour the mixture trying to fill all the holes evenly. Popping Air Bubbles Once poured. I use a cheap hair dryer to heat the resin and get as many bubbles out as I can. Let The Epoxy Cure I let it sit for 24-36 hours to harden. I keep my shop around 70 degrees. Trimming The Epoxy After the has hardened, I remove as much of the plumber's putty as I can and run it through my planer to level the back surface down to the clean wood. I make very shallow passes. Maybe 1/32 at a time. Exterior Cuts Now I drill an entry hole and make the exterior cuts. Support Material I save the wood from the outside of the design and peel all the tape off. I put the piece back into the wood that I cut it from and tape the back side to hold it. This is to protect the piece while running it back through the planer. Final Planing Then I lightly shave the front of the piece down until I get it down to clean wood. Finishing Then remove the piece and sand. I start with 100, 220, 320, 400, 600, and finish with 800. Once done you can apply the finish of your choice. I use clear polyurethane. Final Project I hope you enjoyed reading about my process and I look forward to seeing the projects you make. The next photo is a different cross but shows what it looks like when finished.

Yeehaw! We're going to make a scroll-sawn portrait of the infamous outlaw and gunfighter, Billy the Kid. So, grab your cowboy hat and belly up to the scroll saw to get started on this easy project that captures the Wild West spirit! Prepare Your Materials Print the pattern and cut it to size. A free downloadable PDF is available to SSV Patrons and linked at the bottom of this article. I also prepared some 2 pieces of 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood. I cut the plywood down to 8 inches square and sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper. I like to pre-sand it before cutting. It saves time at the end of the project, and I have much less risk of breaking those delicate parts. Attach The Pattern With spray adhesive, I spray the back of the pattern. Wait a few moments until the glue is tacky like a Post-It note. Then I apply it directly to the wood. I prefer Super 77 from 3M, but any spray adhesive works. Some folks like to cover the top with packing tape, however, I find it easier to skip that step. It makes removing the pattern much easier later on. Stack Cutting For this project, we're going to stack-cut this portrait. We're doing this for a couple of reasons. First, you get two copies of the project for the work of one. Second, since the 1/8" plywood is so thin, having a little extra thickness will help with controlling the cut. I stack 2 pieces of 1/8" Baltic Birch Plywood. I press them together tightly, then tape each of the four edges with painter's tape. It's important these are tight and won't slide. Pilot Holes With the smallest drillbit I have, I drill my pilot holes in each of the grey areas. This will be used to thread the scroll saw blade through. If you don't have a drill press, you can easily do it with a hand drill. Cutting Blade choice is a matter of preference. In this project, I'm using a #3 scroll reverse spiral blade. I tend to use spiral blades for portrait-style projects. It really lends itself well to organic shapes and makes it easy to cut. However, you can use a #3 scroll reverse straight blade too. Removing The Pattern I removed the masking tape from around the edges of our stack cut. To remove the pattern, I spritz down the pattern with mineral spirits. I wait a few moments until the pattern turns translucent. Then the pattern practically drops off on its own. This is why I prefer not to use packing tape. The packing tape will prevent the mineral spirits to absorb into the paper and dissolve the glue. However, you can peel off the packing tape first, then spritz it down. But I find it easier not having the packing tape at all. With a paper towel and mineral spirits, I will wipe down where the glue was just to remove any extra glue. Finishing There you go! Two cuttings for the work of one! Usually, there is minimal cleanup. Sometimes you have to clean out the fuzzies on the back of the project with some needle files or sandpaper. For finishing, I'll put on 2-3 coats of clear acrylic spray. I prefer Deft Satin spray. For an ultra-smooth finish, before the last coat, I'll hit it quickly with #0000 steel will. Framing I made a simple frame with some old weathered fence boards. A simple miter cut at the corners and glued them. For the backer, I like using black felt. I used plexiglass on top of the cutting to protect it from dust. The next step is to hang it up in your homestead! Final I hope you enjoyed this project. Billy The Kid has really captured the imagination of the Wild West and has lived a very interesting, although short, life. Take some time and read a bit more about him. A super interesting character for sure!

When I first started scroll sawing, I grabbed whatever wood I could find lying around. I remember one of my early projects, I was cutting a portrait of a certain Star Wars character out of ¼” red oak. It was going great until the blade hit a weak spot and split the whole thing in two! I was heartbroken. That day, I learned a hard lesson that wood has weak points that run along the grain lines. Achieving fine details in portrait-style fretwork can be tricky when using solid woods, but using plywood can help ensure that those details remain intact. But not any kind of plywood would do. That's why Baltic birch plywood has become a go-to material for scrollers. It's strong, durable, and surprisingly versatile. Let's take a closer look at what makes Baltic birch plywood so great for scroll sawing. What is Baltic Birch Plywood? Baltic birch plywood comes from the Baltic region, which includes countries such as Russia, Finland, Estonia, and Latvia. The region is known for its vast forests of birch trees, which are harvested for their wood. The colder climate and shorter growing seasons in this region result in denser wood with fewer defects, which makes it especially suited for high-quality plywood. During the manufacturing process, the plies are made from solid birch without voids (holes in the ply layers), and arranged with a cross-grain pattern, with the grain of each layer running perpendicular to the layer below it. This design gives the plywood its strength and stability, as well as resistance to warping and cracking. The Scroller’s Choice The plywood has a fine, even grain pattern and uniform texture, which gives it a sleek, modern appearance. The natural color of birch wood can range from pale yellow to light brown, making it a versatile material for a wide range of design styles. Its smooth surface also makes it ideal for painting or staining. However, scrollers often adopt a natural look and simply apply a clear lacquer over the piece. The uniform plies also make an attractive accent that many scrollers will incorporate into their work. While Baltic birch plywood is a high-quality material, it is also surprisingly affordable and readily available. However, it's important to note that this type of plywood isn't commonly found in home centers, and is more typically available through specialized woodworking stores, hardwood dealers, or online. For ease and convenience, I tend to buy mine through Amazon. But there are many online retailers that offer project-sized panels for scrollers. Baltic birch plywood is especially useful for scroll sawing projects due to its smooth surface and ability to hold fine details. The wood is surprisingly strong and supports delicate fretwork. It doesn’t have wild grain patterns, so it won’t compete with the details of intricate fretwork. And, the absence of voids in the plies allows for clean, precise cuts, making it a popular choice for portrait-style cutting. Baltic Birch vs Finnish Birch Plywood Baltic birch plywood and Finnish birch plywood share many similarities since they both undergo the same manufacturing process. However, the key difference between the two is the type of glue used to adhere the plies. Finnish birch uses waterproof Phenol Resin glue, making it ideal for outdoor projects. The glue is dark, which makes the plies more pronounced and the striation between them is more visible. Additionally, Finnish birch plywood tends to be dense and more difficult to cut on the scroll saw. Conversely, Baltic birch plywood uses Urea Resin Glue, which is moisture-resistant, but not waterproof. It is ideal for indoor uses, but not recommended for outdoor use. It is less dense and easier to cut, with more subtle color variations between the plies. Baltic Birch Plywood vs Birch Plywood Birch plywood is often confused with Baltic birch plywood since the names are so similar. You’d be tempted to buy birch plywood from the home center and be disappointed with the quality. Standard birch plywood looks similar from the outside but the differences are considerable. Standard birch plywood contains fewer plies that are bonded together with a variety of glues. The face veneers are made from domestic birch and are very thin, only able to handle minimal sanding. The inner core layers also contain a variety of species and often include voids, glue spots, and sap pockets. Many scrollers avoid standard birch plywood, as it can be frustrating to work with, and will often produce disappointing results. Grading Baltic Birch Plywood Plywood is graded solely based on the appearance of its face and back veneers, not the core. The better-looking side is referred to as the face, while the poorer-looking side is referred to as the back. The following grades are listed as "Face/Back". B/BB Face: Uniform light color with no plugs or open cracks/splits, but may have a limited amount of pin knots and minor color inconsistencies. Back: Uniform color, although color variations and stains are allowed. Veneers may have small oval or round patches to replace open knots and defects that have been cut out before gluing. The selected veneer for patches is of the same general color as the face veneer. Both sides are sanded smooth. BB/BB Face/Back: Uniform color, although color variations and stains are allowed. Veneers may have small oval or round patches to replace open knots and defects that have been cut out before gluing. The selected veneer for patches is of the same general color as the face veneer. Both sides are sanded smooth. BB/CP Face: Uniform color, although color variations and stains are allowed. Veneers may have small oval or round patches to replace open knots and defects that have been cut out before gluing. The selected veneer for patches is of the same general color as the face veneer. Back: Typically has less consistent color and features more prevalent defects, including knots, staining, and hairline splits. More patches per face are common and may not be color-matched. Both sides are sanded smooth. CP/CP Front/Back: Typically has less consistent color and features more prevalent defects, including knots, staining, and hairline splits. More patches per face are common and may not be color-matched. Both sides are sanded smooth. C/C Front/Back: This is a utility grade and is typically used for structural purposes. Patches, open knots, and splits are common. Small voids in the core are permitted. Frequently Asked Questions What are the common uses for scrollers? Strength and stability is the biggest driver for choosing Baltic birch plywood. These include portrait-style designs, fretwork, toys, holiday ornaments, sun catchers, wooden baskets, jigsaw puzzles, layered projects, wooden gears, and backers. Which grade should I buy? B/BB is most commonly used by scrollers and produces great results. BB/BB looks nice, but you may have to work around the patches. Depending on the size of your project, this usually isn't too difficult. Does it sand it well? Because Baltic birch plywood has thicker veneers than standard plywood, it sands very well. I like to sand the plywood with 220-grit sandpaper before applying the pattern. When I’m done cutting, there is minimal sanding required, which helps protect the delicate fretwork. Can I stain Baltic birch plywood? Baltic birch has a consistent grain pattern that tends to become blotchy when stained. If you want to change the appearance of the wood, use a wood conditioner, gel stain, or dye to minimize this effect. What is a good finish? Many scrollers prefer the natural look of Baltic birch plywood. So they either leave it unfinished or coat it with a non-yellowing acrylic spray. My preferred method is using a clear acrylic spray, such as Deft Clear Satin Laquer. I’ll add 2-3 coats, then briefly sand it with 0000 steel wool before giving it one last coat. The result is a clear and smooth finish that feels good in the hands. Which way should I put the grain direction? This is a personal preference and the project often dictates the direction of the grain. For landscapes, horizontal works very well as it mimics the horizon. For portraits, the vertical grain direction looks nice as it draws the eye from the top to the bottom.

Here is a fun little project you can knock out in an afternoon. These little wooden jack-o-lanterns will certainly delight and add some spooky decor to your house this Halloween. This project is made from cedar fence boards, so they're super cheap to make, and they look great! Step 1 I'm using cedar fence boards. Not only are they super cheap (between $3-4 per board) they have a rough-sawn look that will really make the project look great! The cedar fence boards have little fuzzies on them. Using 80 grit sandpaper, I knock off those fuzzies. I don't want to get it too smooth. The character of the uneven surface and milling marks is what makes this project sand out. Step 2 I'm cutting down each of the panels on the table saw. You can certainly cut out the panels with your scroll saw using the full-sized drawings in the pattern. I'm making 2 jack-o-lanterns, so I doubled the number of panels I need. For each pumpkin, I need two of each of the following: Top & Bottom 5.5"x5.5" Front & Back 4.5" x 6" Sides 3.5"x6" Caps & Inset 3.5"x3.5" Step 3 I like to paint the inside of the jack-o-lanterns so it reflects the light better. It's easier to paint them now than later. For the front and pack panels, I'm taping up the edge. I don't want any paint on these edges, since it will be visible on the outside. Step 4 I'm giving it a quick coat of white primer, followed by a quick coat of yellow spraypaint. I don't worry too much about perfect coverage. In fact, it looks better when there is variation in the coverage. Step 5 I grab my front panel and attach my scroll saw pattern to it. I use spray adhesive on the back of the pattern, then stick it to the front. Step 6 At the drill press, I make pilot holes for the blade to fee through. You can also use a regular hand drill. Step 7 These patterns are really easy, and you'll be able to knock these out in a few minutes. I'm using a #3 scroll reverse blade. Step 8 Time for assembly. I'm using standard wood glue and brad nails to pin it together. You can also use regular hammer and nails. Just be careful not to split the wood. Step 9 For the bottom, II put the box on the bottom panel and trace around it. I'll use this as a guide so I know where to put my brad nails into. I don't do any measuring, just eyeball it. Step 10 With the traced side facing up, I lay down a bit of glue. I know where the perimeter of the box is, so I know where to drive my nails into. Step 11 The inset is supposed to fit inside the box so the lid nestles in nicely. This will be a bit too big and will require some trimming. Just trim off a little on each end until it fits. I don't like it too tight, just enough where it will settle in nicely. Step 12 I glued and sandwiched the top panel between the inset and the cap piece. The cap is only decorative. I didn't bother nailing this one. I just put a little weight on the top and let the glue dry. Step 13 With a propane torch, I went outside and scorched the box. This is a lot of fun and will make your jack-o-lantern look awesome. Keep the flame moving, or you'll get uneven scorch marks. Step 14 I'm using a water based stain from Minwax I got at the big-box store. They can tint the stain any color you want. Naturally, I chose pumpkin orange. I applied the stain fairly heavy, then when I was done with the side, I quickly removed the excess with a paper towel. For the face, I dabbed on the stain, trying hard not to get it into the cuts. I found it easiest to work on one side at a time. Apply stain, then quickly wipe it away. Step 15 I found a stick outside and started stripping away the bark. We'll use this as our stem on our pumpkins. I like to find interesting parts of the stick, just to add a bit of interest. Step 16 On the scroll saw, I trimmed off sections of the stick to make the stem. I also sanded the bottom edge on a belt sander to get it flat. Step 17 I drilled a hole through the top of the box. I also drilled a pilot hole into the bottom of the stem. I'll attach the stem with a screw that goes through the bottom of the box and into the stem. Step 18 I painted the stem with regular craft paint. I painted it on and quickly wiped off the paint with a paper towel before it dried. This gives the stem a stained look and you can still see the wood grain. Once dried, I attached the stem to the lid with a screw from below. I also tied a bit of raffia around the base of the stem for a little extra pizzazz. Step 19 I'm using battery-powered fairy lights. I like this set because it had different displays, as well as a remote and timer. I've put a link to the ones I got here. Happy Halloween! Final Project

I was inspired by seeing a wooden cowboy hat done on a lathe. YouTube videos are always inspiring. Since a hat is similar to a bowl. I had to start this wearable cowboy hat project. I found Cherokee Woods supplies thin stock ⅛" thick. In several types of wood. This first one is maple. Yep, I have more to make, canary wood, and black walnut is planned. Making The Pattern To get the shape of my head I bought a curve tool for drafting big curves. This tool is 30 inches. The blue curve tool is shown in the brim section. I wrapped the curve tool around my head pressing hard. Then scanned it into the computer. I traced the scanned and made it a path. Inkscape has a linked offset and I created 7 linked offsets of 0.125 inches. One larger than my head. For a liner space. 0.125 inches was calculated from an angle of 9 degrees on a 0.75-inch thick board. Made the pattern, attached to hard maple ¾" board, and drilled blade access holes. Step 1 My first issue started by a drill bit broke inside the board. I made a note on the pattern. My fix was to leave it and drill another hole. It turns out I did not need the smallest rings. Then cut the first 2 large rings out. Step 2 2 rings stacked, now for glue up thin stock for the brim. Now in preparation for the brim, I had to glue up (3) sheets 6 in x 24 in . My plan is to have seams going front to back. Step 3 2 more rings are cut and stacked. I decided to show how good / bad that I stay on the lines. So I put the rings back where they came out of and get a zoomed in picture. 4 outer rings are cut, pattern shows lines. Step 4 6 rings look pretty high for the crown. I decided to stop there. Cuts were done with #1 Pegasus MGT. Since bowls use both top and bottom I wanted no bottom blade tear outs. Each ring is about 23 inches around. I got about ⅔ around before changing blades. Once I pushed the dulled blade all around but my" follow the line'' was getting not very good. I went slow, each ring took about an hour. 6 rings , 6 hours but not all at 1 sitting. Step 5 Gluing rings was in steps. 2 smallest rings first. I used the center wood to clamp the rings down. The center is not going to be used. I waited about 30 min before adding another ring. This made it easier to verify the alignment of sides. I wanted to show how the edges line up from my gluing and show cut quality or the lack of following the lines. This next picture is straight down the ruler. You can see variations against the ruler edge. Also see some ripple of the curves just to the left of the ruler. Step 6 Here it is all stacked. This shows bad drilling issues. Drill bits did not stay at 9 degrees. Drill bits drifted and bent a bit as it went through the wood. See next picture. The top center piece is still there from clamping. Looks like 7 rings here. The next picture shows the wall thickness and how far off the bit was. This is the exit hole. Lessons learned here is get a stiff cobalt drill bit. Also do not have drill holes in the same area. Step 7 Sanding time. I have a palm sander "finish" sander I was using to sand down the ripples and edge mismatches. After an hour I decided that the finish sander was not good enough. I went and got an orbital sander. Within another 25 min the outside was sanded. With all grits 100 down to 320. I decided to make a YouTube short video for the sanding result: This video also shows inside sanding results. Not shown in video, I used a hand drum sander and my hand powered drill to sand the inside crown. The sanding drum is the type you can cut sand paper and slip it inside a grove and lock it in. Final sanding grit is 320. Total sanding time: Outside 1hr : 25 min, Inside 3 hrs. Step 8 With the ring stack trace (center area) the outside of the largest ring for inside if brim. Carefully measure 4.5 inches all the way around . This gives dashed lines. Taking the same curve tool that I used for my head, I carefully drew a solid line on the wood for the outer brim. Here (next picture) is the big board in the scroll saw. See the tiny blade? Table angle is still 9 degrees. This will go over the top ring stack and match the sides of the bottom ring. The throat of my saw is 26 inch Hawk. It is starting to look like a hat. Maybe a cowboy hat? Pretty. I don't like selfies, but I had to do a fit check. Yep I look goofy. Total project time around 12 hrs. Do cowboy hats have flat brims? I had to do some research…. Yes 2 of these guys have flat brims. These guys look good. Step 9 Since I looked goofy I needed some bending of wood. Most cowboy hats have some kind of angle of sides. Ok here goes some experiments. Take bar clamps across short side of table. This allows excess bars to be used for support. I decided on with 2inch PVC pipes for a good radius curve for the wood. Sit the hat upside down on these PVC tubes. Use wet paper towels to control water so the water does not go on glue seams of the brim. Wet the wood on the outside edge of paper towels and soak the paper towel. Really soak the wood. I took this pic 5 minutes after soaking. Top view pic first then bottom views. I have light weight clamps on the right and left edges if the brim. These are the weights to pull the wood around the PVC pipes. You can barely see the white pipes in the below picture. The angle of the clamps show that the wood is bending . This is within 5 minutes of wetting the wood. ⅛ inch wood bends faster than I expected. About 2hr later I checked on them the wood is bend around the white PVC tube. Drying time. Slowly allow the bent wood to dry. I covered the wet wood with paper towels. To keep some moisture. After a few hours I checked on dryness and paper towels were a bit too dry. So I lightly sprayed them. Them covered everything with plastic. After a whole night there was still some, not much, moisture on paper towels. So I covered it back up all day. As it dried it opened up the angle quite a bit. But the wood felt a bit cool still but looked dry. Using a thermometer gun I noted the wet wood was 4 degrees cooler than dry wood. Here is a top view. It is still drying. I added a clamp on both sides for more weight. The angle of the curve is the angle I think I want. No cracks or splits are viewable. Step 10 Make a crown top. I just could NOT leave the top flat. So I decided to make the center top inside and level with the edge. This shows the ring thickness and how it is made. Also most hats have sewing seams on top, not the edge. Most "telescope" cowboy hats have a lowered part around the top and then it comes back up in the center. The picture above shows a piece that was cut , then sanded to fit into the tip crown. It's outside edge also has a 9 degree angle to match the crown angle. Since this was made with maple wood I thought a maple leaf would be a good centerpiece. This maple leaf is a separate piece and just glued on top. Now this was cut at an angle of 45 degrees to show kinda embossing or a relief feel. I did try to use a relief cut from ⅛ thick thin stock. It would only stick up a little. So I decide to just add a piece. This 45 degree angle cut leaf was very interesting. Very difficult to get sharp pointed leaves. But even harder to get sharp corners near the leaf. You can't approach the sharp corner the opposite way. You need to keep the same clockwise direction through the whole piece. I actually was going counterclockwise. My magnifying glass is slightly on the right side of the blade. Having the table tilt low on the left, it was hard to see the cut edge. Next time I will tilt the table low to the right. This maple leaf outline is from a Vermont website. But Canadians do wear cowboy hats. Yippee Calgary stampede rodeo. But the leaf is just because it is made with maple wood. Final Assembly Now it looks like a cowboy hat. So I wanted to inject some glue between the crown and brim connection. So I used a #18ga needle and Titebond 3. Next is a hard outer finish, ArmorSeal. Final Project

Applying Patterns Transfer Method Drawing - One of the most direct ways of putting a pattern to your workpiece is simply draw your pattern onto the wood. This is a good method for simple patterns or to rough out a shape. However, it gets difficult for complex patterns and is limited by your drawing ability. Carbon Paper - Carbon paper is an easy method to transfer your pattern directly to the wood. Place your carbon paper between the pattern and the workpiece, and trace your pattern. The pressure from your pencil will transfer the carbon from the carbon paper to your workpiece. Graphite - If you don't have carbon paper, you can make your own. Flip over your pattern. With a soft pencil, lay down a thick layer of pencil. Once you have a nice thick layer, flip your pattern over and retrace your pattern onto the wood. The graphite from your pencil will transfer to your workpiece. Heat- This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Using a household iron will melt the toner on the paper and transfer it to the wood. Turn your iron up to the highest setting. Tape your pattern face down on the wood and iron the back of the pattern. Add firm pressure and go slowly. It will take time to transfer the wood, so check your work periodically. They also make special tools for using this transfer method. Acetone - This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. The acetone will soften the toner and transfer it to the wood. Soak a paper town and apply the acetone to the back of your pattern. When the paper turns translucent, use the back of a spoon to rub the pattern into the wood. Warning: Acetone is highly flammable and has noxious fumes. Use safely in a well-ventilated area and away from flame. Inkjet - This method requires an inkjet printer. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Take a sheet of labels and peel off all of the labels. What's left behind is a waxy surface. When you print our pattern, the ink from your inkjet printer will stay on the surface and will remain wet for quite a while. Carefully place your label sheet face down onto your wood and wipe the back of the pattern with a paper towel to transfer the wet ink to the wood. This method can also be used with butcher paper. Cut the butcher paper to fit your printer and print it onto the waxy surface. Using Substrates The most common way scrollers attach patterns to their workpiece is by using a substrate. A substrate is a material put directly onto the wood, then the pattern is glued to the substrate. This method protects the wood from the glue and often makes pattern removal easier. Depending on the substrate, it may also offer lubrication for the blade to minimize burn marks. Blue Painter's Tape (Substrate) - The most common substrate scrollers use is blue painter's tape. Painter's tape has low tack which makes pattern removal easy. The wax on the tape also acts as a lubricant for the blade. A good quality painter's tape is recommended as their cheap counterparts rip too easily and may leave behind a sticky residue. Contact Paper (Substrate) - Contact paper are used as shelf liners and can be found in the kitchen area of your favorite store. Contact paper comes in large rolls, which is wide enough to accommodate most projects. Simply roll out what you need and apply the contact paper to your workpiece. Glad Press'n Seal (Substrate) -Glad Press'n Seal has a surprisingly strong bond when attached to a workpiece. Tear off enough to fit your workpiece. With the back of a credit card, press the Press'n Seal into the wood and trim off the excess. Since Glad Press'n Seal does not use any glues, there is no chance of leaving behind a sticky residue. PVA Glue (Attach) - You can use a basic white glue to attach your pattern to the substrate. Simply spread the glue onto the back of the pattern, and place it onto the substrate. Smooth out any air bubbles and wait at least an hour for the glue to dry. Glue Stick (Attach) - If PVA glue is too messy, you can use a glue stick. Some glue sticks have a colorant added. When the glue is wet, the glue shows purple but will dry clear. This type of glue stick makes it easy to know where you've applied glue. The drying time is much quicker; 15-20 minutes or less. Rubber Cement (Attach) - Rubber cement will add a really strong bond. To use, apply a thin coat of rubber cement to the back of your pattern and a thin layer to the back of your substrate. Allow each to dry until it becomes tacky like a Post It Note. Then carefully apply the pattern to the substrate. When the two layers of rubber cement meet, it will create a permanent bond. Full Sheet Label (Attach) - Here is a super-easy way to add your pattern to your substrate. Simply print your pattern on a full sheet label. Peel off the back of the label and attach to your substrate. Full sheet labels can get costly, but what you lose in expense, you make up for in convenience. Spray Adhesive (Attach) - The most common way for scrollers to glue a pattern is by using a spray adhesive. There are 2 ways to do this. The main way is to spray the back of the pattern and wait for it to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note. Once dry, you attach it to the substrate. For a more permanent bond, spray both the back of the pattern and the substrate. Wait for each to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note, then carefully attach the pattern to the substrate. Once the two glue surfaces meet, it will create a permanent bond. Directly To The Wood The method that is growing in popularity is gluing the pattern directly to the wood. Using a spray adhesive, spray the back of the pattern (don't spray the wood). When the glue has dried so it's tacky like a Post It Note, apply the pattern to the workpiece. This method is growing in popularity because it requires no additional materials. Pattern removal is easy and will practically fall off with a little mineral spirits. (See Pattern Removal below.) Removing Patterns Peeling - This is the most obvious way of removing your pattern. This works especially well when using a substrate as the pattern and the substrate peel off together. If getting the edge of your fingernail under the pattern is difficult, use a Xacto blade to help it along. Be especially careful when removing patterns from your workpiece. Peeling may add additional stress to the already delicate fretwork and we don't want to break off any fragile pieces. Sanding - You can also sand the pattern off. This method works great when using an image transfer where the pattern is transferred directly to the wood. You can also sand away paper patterns. But be careful. The friction of the sandpaper may soften some of the glue and work the glue into the wood fibers. Just take it slow and don't spend too much time in any one place. Take extra care when sanding delicate fretwork. The action of the sander may add extra stress to the delicate fretwork. You may choose to use a less aggressive sander like a vibrating mouse sander or simply sand it by hand. You can use a sanding pad for additional support and keep it from sliding around while you work. Heat Gun - A heat gun will soften up the glue and make pattern removal much easier. A high-intensity heat gun used for stripping paint and wallpaper works best. You might be able to use a hairdryer. Just put it on its highest setting and work one section at a time. Mineral Spirits - A popular way of removing patterns is using Mineral Spirits. Mineral Spirits is a solvent, so it will soften and dissolve the glue. You can buy odorless mineral spirits, so it's great for indoor use. Just make sure you protect your work surface. Mineral spirits work especially well when you attach your pattern directly to the wood. Just wet the pattern. Once it turns translucent, the pattern practically falls off on its own. Just peel it away and you're good as new. Mineral spirits is also good for removing any sticky residue left behind from tape or glue. Just apply and wipe away. For easy application, add it to a spray bottle. That way it's ready to go whenever you are. Simply spray the back of the pattern and remove. ---------- So, what did I forget? Do you use a different technique I didn't cover here? Let us know below.