Travis
-
Posts
7,006 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
33
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by Travis
-
Oh my goodness! I'm really sorry to hear that. That's a good reminder for us to be mindful of all of our tools. I've had a couple close calls before. Not a good feeling. I hope you heal up quickly.
-
Thanks everybody for the wellwishes! In true form, I'm spending my entire day in the workshop. I wouldn't have it any other way!
-
I'm a little late to the game, but I have a tutorial on how to move elements in GIMP. It's the same method, but you can also scale items. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles.html/_/pattern-making/gimp/moving-elements-using-gimp-r18 Let me know if you're still having trouble.
-
looking for a cabin in the woods pattern
Travis replied to heppnerguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I found this one in the Scenic area in the Pattern Library. -
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. The signs turned out great! This is the tutorial they're referring to: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles.html/_/pattern-making/inkscape/word-art-intersecting-word-art-with-inkscape-r69 Check out the Articles section (tab at the top of the screen) for a ton of other useful tutorials and resources. Enjoy!
-
This is Kathleen. She's a writer for Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts. She's the one who wrote the nice article about SSV's Ornaments For Charity. Welcome, Kathleen.
-
After you install the font, then restart Inkscape. It should show up then.
-
Control+G is a grouping. So to ungroup, use Ctrl+Shift+G (or Object>Ungroup)
-
It depends on how the shapes are put together. If you are doing a Union (welding) to create a unique shape, they cannot be separated again because it creates a new shape. If you have a hole in a shape, you can break that apart (Ctrl+Shift+K), which separates the two shapes that make up that shape. But that's only for shapes that have holes in them.
-
A couple of Doctor Who candle sconces I made for my favorite Whovian; my wife. I wanted some silhouettes of her 2 favorite Doctors against the outline of the Tardis. I had a tough time figuring out the design for below the shelf. I thought of something geometric that mimics the Tardis, but that was too repetitive. My favorite episode is where they meet Van Gough. So I tried to some flowing swirls from Van Gough's Stary Night (and Exploding Tardis painting), but that didn't translate very well. Some of my favorite episodes took place in 19th Century England, so I thought some Victorian fretwork would work really well. Steve Good had a candle sconce/shelf that I liked (called Small Shelf here), so I took the Victorian fretwork from that pattern, but added my Doctor Who design to the top. So this is a mashup of several ideas and patterns; mixed and matched to get a unique design. My wife was thrilled when she saw them. I even added a couple of Police Box candles for the final touches.
- 20 replies
-
- 8
-
-
- doctor who
- candle
- (and 3 more)
-
I don't think Inkscape will save as a JPG. If I need it in JPG. I'll open it in GIMP and re-save it as a JPG.
-
Bob is on the right track. Because you Unioned the objects, it's now 1 object. So in order to separate the objects, you'll have to do Path>Break Apart (Shift+Ctrl+K). This will break your object into all the shapes that make up the original object. From there, do a marquee box around the letter. That will select all the shapes that make up that letter. At the bottom of the screen, it will say "____ objects of type Path" You should have several objects selected. From there, go to Path>Combine (Ctrl+K), which will make that letter whole again. Do that to each of your letters. Then fix the problem letter with any needed bridges or other fixes.
-
You can set the size in the Tool Options for your paint brush. After you select your paintbrush tool, the options should show up in the box below the tool pallete. If not, you'll have to open it in Windows>Dockable Dialogs>Tool Options From there, you can control several aspects of the brush, including size.
-
What are you currently working on?
-
I was able to put something together for you. Hopefully it'll explain how to add text along a path. In this video, I’ll show how to add text along a wavy path, as well as in a circle. Creating this kind of word art in GIMP is a little clunky. A better tool for this would be to use Inkscape where you have a little more control over the letters and paths you create. However, it is possible in GIMP with some trial and error to get it to look the way you want. Enjoy the show!
-
Help and advice needed on special project
Travis replied to Kris Martinson's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Sometimes its nice to step away, get a few wins under your belt, then come back and give it another go. The next time you try it, line up 3 or 4 "throw away" experiments before digging into the project that matters. -
Help and advice needed on special project
Travis replied to Kris Martinson's topic in General Scroll Sawing
You can try putting the Glad Press And Seal (the stuff you use for food. Here's a pic.) onto the puzzle. Then attach the pattern to the Press And Seal. It should stick to the ModPodge pretty well. I'd opt for a acrylic spray coat instead of ModPodge, though. I think it seals it better. Plus, I think ModPodge is water soluble. So it would come off when water (or slobber if we're talking about a little one) comes in contact with it. -
I might be able to put something together tonight.
-
Looks awesome! Nicely done!
-
I just got my issue of SSW&C and was thrilled to see some of our members were featured: heppnerguy - Page 25 shows some boxes he made for a wedding party. Bishop - Page 28 has a wonderful article/tutorial on 3D Intarsia written by Homer and Carol. Beautiful work! wdkits1 - Page 72 has a writeup on his amazing intarsia. Good job, guys!
-
I have my DeWalt planer and Rigid osculating spindle sander I need to find a home for. I'll be making one of these for sure. Thanks for posting!
-
I agree, you'll have more trouble with online sales than at a show. Lawyers can can use the Google, but aren't all that excited to go to craft shows. Many times you'll get a cease and desist order. Other times, especially with sports teams, they hire these firms that make your life miserable. They basically go out and actively seek out violators. Think of them as collection agencies. They earn their income based on lawsuits and settlements. CAPS is one group that I know of that has griefed a friend of mine. There are others that do the same thing.
-
I don't think I'd reccomend the Dremel Moto-Saw. The throat capacity is fairly shallow and only accepts pinned blades. I think you'll have more flexibility with a standard scroll saw (even if you don't get into the scrolling hobby). There are some inexpensive scroll saws. Look at the Craftsman 16" ($120) or the Porter Cable 16" ($180). Here's a list of scroll saws and some user reviews. Hopefully that will help.
-
I'd encourage you to learn to cut with a flat blade first. Once you're comfortable with that, then try out the spiral blade. It's easier to start with flat blades then learn spiral. However, I found if you start with spirals, it's harder to go back to learn flat blades. Once you know how to use both blades, you can choose the style that best suites the project. I like to use spiral blades for cutting portrait style projects and flat blades for everything else. The smaller the blade, the tighter the curve, but the more squirrely it can become on thinner materials. Larger blades cut through thicker material, but harder to turn tight corners. Here's what I use: #3 scroll reverse - my go to blade for most things. Cuts 1/8" (stack cut for better control), 1/4", and 1/2" #5 Scroll Reverse - 1/2" and 3/4" #9 Scroll Reverse - for 3/4" #3 Scroll Reverse Spiral Blade - Portraits 2/0 or Puzzle blades for puzzles.
