Travis

When I first started scroll sawing, I grabbed whatever wood I could find lying around. I remember one of my early projects, I was cutting a portrait of a certain Star Wars character out of ¼” red oak. It was going great until the blade hit a weak spot and split the whole thing in two! I was heartbroken. That day, I learned a hard lesson that wood has weak points that run along the grain lines. Achieving fine details in portrait-style fretwork can be tricky when using solid woods, but using plywood can help ensure that those details remain intact. But not any kind of plywood would do. That's why Baltic birch plywood has become a go-to material for scrollers. It's strong, durable, and surprisingly versatile. Let's take a closer look at what makes Baltic birch plywood so great for scroll sawing. What is Baltic Birch Plywood? Baltic birch plywood comes from the Baltic region, which includes countries such as Russia, Finland, Estonia, and Latvia. The region is known for its vast forests of birch trees, which are harvested for their wood. The colder climate and shorter growing seasons in this region result in denser wood with fewer defects, which makes it especially suited for high-quality plywood. During the manufacturing process, the plies are made from solid birch without voids (holes in the ply layers), and arranged with a cross-grain pattern, with the grain of each layer running perpendicular to the layer below it. This design gives the plywood its strength and stability, as well as resistance to warping and cracking. The Scroller’s Choice The plywood has a fine, even grain pattern and uniform texture, which gives it a sleek, modern appearance. The natural color of birch wood can range from pale yellow to light brown, making it a versatile material for a wide range of design styles. Its smooth surface also makes it ideal for painting or staining. However, scrollers often adopt a natural look and simply apply a clear lacquer over the piece. The uniform plies also make an attractive accent that many scrollers will incorporate into their work. While Baltic birch plywood is a high-quality material, it is also surprisingly affordable and readily available. However, it's important to note that this type of plywood isn't commonly found in home centers, and is more typically available through specialized woodworking stores, hardwood dealers, or online. For ease and convenience, I tend to buy mine through Amazon. But there are many online retailers that offer project-sized panels for scrollers. Baltic birch plywood is especially useful for scroll sawing projects due to its smooth surface and ability to hold fine details. The wood is surprisingly strong and supports delicate fretwork. It doesn’t have wild grain patterns, so it won’t compete with the details of intricate fretwork. And, the absence of voids in the plies allows for clean, precise cuts, making it a popular choice for portrait-style cutting. Baltic Birch vs Finnish Birch Plywood Baltic birch plywood and Finnish birch plywood share many similarities since they both undergo the same manufacturing process. However, the key difference between the two is the type of glue used to adhere the plies. Finnish birch uses waterproof Phenol Resin glue, making it ideal for outdoor projects. The glue is dark, which makes the plies more pronounced and the striation between them is more visible. Additionally, Finnish birch plywood tends to be dense and more difficult to cut on the scroll saw. Conversely, Baltic birch plywood uses Urea Resin Glue, which is moisture-resistant, but not waterproof. It is ideal for indoor uses, but not recommended for outdoor use. It is less dense and easier to cut, with more subtle color variations between the plies. Baltic Birch Plywood vs Birch Plywood Birch plywood is often confused with Baltic birch plywood since the names are so similar. You’d be tempted to buy birch plywood from the home center and be disappointed with the quality. Standard birch plywood looks similar from the outside but the differences are considerable. Standard birch plywood contains fewer plies that are bonded together with a variety of glues. The face veneers are made from domestic birch and are very thin, only able to handle minimal sanding. The inner core layers also contain a variety of species and often include voids, glue spots, and sap pockets. Many scrollers avoid standard birch plywood, as it can be frustrating to work with, and will often produce disappointing results. Grading Baltic Birch Plywood Plywood is graded solely based on the appearance of its face and back veneers, not the core. The better-looking side is referred to as the face, while the poorer-looking side is referred to as the back. The following grades are listed as "Face/Back". B/BB Face: Uniform light color with no plugs or open cracks/splits, but may have a limited amount of pin knots and minor color inconsistencies. Back: Uniform color, although color variations and stains are allowed. Veneers may have small oval or round patches to replace open knots and defects that have been cut out before gluing. The selected veneer for patches is of the same general color as the face veneer. Both sides are sanded smooth. BB/BB Face/Back: Uniform color, although color variations and stains are allowed. Veneers may have small oval or round patches to replace open knots and defects that have been cut out before gluing. The selected veneer for patches is of the same general color as the face veneer. Both sides are sanded smooth. BB/CP Face: Uniform color, although color variations and stains are allowed. Veneers may have small oval or round patches to replace open knots and defects that have been cut out before gluing. The selected veneer for patches is of the same general color as the face veneer. Back: Typically has less consistent color and features more prevalent defects, including knots, staining, and hairline splits. More patches per face are common and may not be color-matched. Both sides are sanded smooth. CP/CP Front/Back: Typically has less consistent color and features more prevalent defects, including knots, staining, and hairline splits. More patches per face are common and may not be color-matched. Both sides are sanded smooth. C/C Front/Back: This is a utility grade and is typically used for structural purposes. Patches, open knots, and splits are common. Small voids in the core are permitted. Frequently Asked Questions What are the common uses for scrollers? Strength and stability is the biggest driver for choosing Baltic birch plywood. These include portrait-style designs, fretwork, toys, holiday ornaments, sun catchers, wooden baskets, jigsaw puzzles, layered projects, wooden gears, and backers. Which grade should I buy? B/BB is most commonly used by scrollers and produces great results. BB/BB looks nice, but you may have to work around the patches. Depending on the size of your project, this usually isn't too difficult. Does it sand it well? Because Baltic birch plywood has thicker veneers than standard plywood, it sands very well. I like to sand the plywood with 220-grit sandpaper before applying the pattern. When I’m done cutting, there is minimal sanding required, which helps protect the delicate fretwork. Can I stain Baltic birch plywood? Baltic birch has a consistent grain pattern that tends to become blotchy when stained. If you want to change the appearance of the wood, use a wood conditioner, gel stain, or dye to minimize this effect. What is a good finish? Many scrollers prefer the natural look of Baltic birch plywood. So they either leave it unfinished or coat it with a non-yellowing acrylic spray. My preferred method is using a clear acrylic spray, such as Deft Clear Satin Laquer. I’ll add 2-3 coats, then briefly sand it with 0000 steel wool before giving it one last coat. The result is a clear and smooth finish that feels good in the hands. Which way should I put the grain direction? This is a personal preference and the project often dictates the direction of the grain. For landscapes, horizontal works very well as it mimics the horizon. For portraits, the vertical grain direction looks nice as it draws the eye from the top to the bottom.

Yeehaw! We're going to make a scroll-sawn portrait of the infamous outlaw and gunfighter, Billy the Kid. So, grab your cowboy hat and belly up to the scroll saw to get started on this easy project that captures the Wild West spirit! Prepare Your Materials Print the pattern and cut it to size. A free downloadable PDF is available to SSV Patrons and linked at the bottom of this article. I also prepared some 2 pieces of 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood. I cut the plywood down to 8 inches square and sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper. I like to pre-sand it before cutting. It saves time at the end of the project, and I have much less risk of breaking those delicate parts. Attach The Pattern With spray adhesive, I spray the back of the pattern. Wait a few moments until the glue is tacky like a Post-It note. Then I apply it directly to the wood. I prefer Super 77 from 3M, but any spray adhesive works. Some folks like to cover the top with packing tape, however, I find it easier to skip that step. It makes removing the pattern much easier later on. Stack Cutting For this project, we're going to stack-cut this portrait. We're doing this for a couple of reasons. First, you get two copies of the project for the work of one. Second, since the 1/8" plywood is so thin, having a little extra thickness will help with controlling the cut. I stack 2 pieces of 1/8" Baltic Birch Plywood. I press them together tightly, then tape each of the four edges with painter's tape. It's important these are tight and won't slide. Pilot Holes With the smallest drillbit I have, I drill my pilot holes in each of the grey areas. This will be used to thread the scroll saw blade through. If you don't have a drill press, you can easily do it with a hand drill. Cutting Blade choice is a matter of preference. In this project, I'm using a #3 scroll reverse spiral blade. I tend to use spiral blades for portrait-style projects. It really lends itself well to organic shapes and makes it easy to cut. However, you can use a #3 scroll reverse straight blade too. Removing The Pattern I removed the masking tape from around the edges of our stack cut. To remove the pattern, I spritz down the pattern with mineral spirits. I wait a few moments until the pattern turns translucent. Then the pattern practically drops off on its own. This is why I prefer not to use packing tape. The packing tape will prevent the mineral spirits to absorb into the paper and dissolve the glue. However, you can peel off the packing tape first, then spritz it down. But I find it easier not having the packing tape at all. With a paper towel and mineral spirits, I will wipe down where the glue was just to remove any extra glue. Finishing There you go! Two cuttings for the work of one! Usually, there is minimal cleanup. Sometimes you have to clean out the fuzzies on the back of the project with some needle files or sandpaper. For finishing, I'll put on 2-3 coats of clear acrylic spray. I prefer Deft Satin spray. For an ultra-smooth finish, before the last coat, I'll hit it quickly with #0000 steel will. Framing I made a simple frame with some old weathered fence boards. A simple miter cut at the corners and glued them. For the backer, I like using black felt. I used plexiglass on top of the cutting to protect it from dust. The next step is to hang it up in your homestead! Final I hope you enjoyed this project. Billy The Kid has really captured the imagination of the Wild West and has lived a very interesting, although short, life. Take some time and read a bit more about him. A super interesting character for sure!