Lucky2

Very nice Helmut. Len

Kevin, these cuttings look fantastic, the lady sure is keeping you busy. Len

Good luck, I don't envy you a bit. Len

OK, I was thinking it was set in place not to be moved. Len

Sam, first to tighten the blade to the proper tension, you should pick it like a guitar string, and it should give you a high pitched ping back. That's all I've ever done, and it's worked fine for me. Another way to test for tightness, is to apply pressure to the blade after it is tensioned. Use you index finger and press on the side of the blade, you should not be able to push the blade sideways anymore than about 1/8". To check for front to back pressure, you do the same thing. After a while, setting blade tension will become habit, and you won't even think about it. As for cutting 3/4" stock, it depends on what type of wood your cutting, but, you'll hardly ever use a number 7 blade for it. I mostly use a #3 or #5, but sometimes I can get away with a #1 like I stated it depends on what type of wood I'm using. As for what size to use in Olson blades I can't help you, I only use the Flying Dutchman blades and the numbering system is different. Yes, your blade probably has a bit of overcut, cutting forward at the top a little more than the bottom. Most saws do that direct from the factory, unless it's severe I'd leave it as it is. It probably can be adjusted by rotating the motor, but like I stated I'd leave it as is. To be sure that your blade is cutting as straight as possible up and down, you should install the blade to the back of the clamp yoke on the top as well as the bottom. I do that with my EX21, and I have never had any issues. For positioning the blade in the clamp, I make sure that the bottom clamp screw is over the blade with very little showing on the bottom. Then the top clamp screw will have any extra blade up through the yoke, but it won't be much. You could tighten the clamp screws up on the blade once it's in position, then you could use the tension knob to tighten up your blade. If you do it this way though, you're always frigging with the tension. Once you get the blade tension set, you shouldn't have to reset it every time you switch blades. If you insert the blade the same way every time, you shouldn't have to frig with the tension. I haven't touched the tensioning knob on my saw for a very long time. If you take your blade and attach the bottom clamp first, you can apply downward pressure on the upper arm of your saw while clamping the upper clamp. That will take the back and forth play softness your experiencing away, and it stops you from having to always play with the tension knob. It will make it harder to close the top tension lever, but, not that much harder. If you find doing this makes the top tensioning lever to stiff to close, then just reclamp the top blade clamp. I don't own an EX16, but I imagine the blade clamps are the same as on the EX21. I hope this solves some of your issues, if not, ask again. Len

Looks good, are you going to be adding any color to the shamrock? Len

Nice. Len

Kris, I agree, you nailed it! Len

Nicely done Jim, it looks fantastic. Len

Kevin, don't you just love those rush jobs? Good job on making these, by the way. Len

Doc, I know what to do with it, set it aside until you have a good use for it. There's no sense in using it, just to use it up. 21"x12"x1.5" is a good sized piece of wood, do you do any carving, or know anyone who does. You could always trade it, for something you need or want. Do you know of anyone, you could get to resaw it for you? If you did that, you would have matched pieces that you could use to compliment each other. Plus, it would be better to use on a scrollsaw at about 3/4"or 7/16" depending on the bandsaw blade kerf. Len

Sam, a #5 blade should be fine for cutting 3/4" stock, and cutting at an angle to the blade is normal also. It's possible that you got a bad blade, but, I doubt it. Did you change the blade to see if there was any difference in cutting? That's what I do if I'm having an issue with a blade, it lets me know if maybe I should try a different style or size of blade. Len

Thanks Jerry, will have to check it out. Len

Thanks DW, it's an interesting tip. Len

Alex, you can use most if not all types of wood to practice with. To tell you what type of wood to use for a certain project, we should know what the project is. For the map you posted, you could always use pine or fir stained the color you want. Other than that, should find a retailer of domestic woods,or, check with any cabinet makers to see what they might have for scraps. Len

Great idea Roly. Len

Good idea, but, you would have to make sure that the upper arm always stops in the same location. Len

Sorry Ron, can't help. Len

Kevin, it takes all kinds. I use to make these, I charged $5.00 upfront and $1.00 for each letter. They were good sellers, but they were boring to cut. Len

Nicely done Kevin, waiting to see it finished. Len

Kevin, that's a tidy bit of cutting, it looks fantastic. I have a question though, are you going to be adding a black or colored backer? Part of the reason it looks as nice as it does, is that in the picture its got a black backer due to the computer monitor. I wonder if it will look so nice, if you can see through it? Don't get me wrong Kevin, I'm not trying to belittle your work. But, it is something I started thinking about as soon as I saw it had no permanent backer. Len

Yes Ron, I realize that, but, wasn't there a video or an address to another site regarding this subject? That's what I was inquiring about, I wanted to see what other members had seen or mentioned. It's no big deal. Len

DW, the reason is likely due to how many times they've been known to catch fire. The picture you posted sure looks a lot like the ones that were banned in Canada, for that very reason. Len

Where's the video, there's nothing showing up? Len

Dale, I found this to be very interesting, thanks for sharing it with us. Len