FD Mike

Here are a few more: http://www.scrollsawbladespatterns.com/ http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com/ https://www.woodcraftplans.com/osc/ http://www.windmillplans.com/ http://www.50states.com/maps/ http://www.heritagewood.com/ http://www.woodyoubelieveshop.com/ Mike

Email me again and tell me wht wood, what thickness and I will help to get the right blade.It is almost impossible to tell you what blade to use for what cuttings. It depends a lot on the pattern. For portrait a lot us a # 2/0 spiral. For fret work, the numbers 3, 5 and 7 are used the most, the 5 more than the 3 and 7 combined. However for cery intricate cuttings some use a # 2/0 or a # 1. Fot thick wood a number 9 or 12 are used. I depends a lot on the operator also what blade they use. With practice most will figure out what to use. I hope I was of some help. Mike

Travis, How about this one: Creative Woodcraft Plans, Ltd They bought the Berry Basket just recently. Mike

Greasemonkey, Check on my site: http://mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm ou find all the blades what I sell. Mike

Oh Boy am I put on the spot. I have not heard from other customers about the problem. The new spiral is now my best selling spiral. Some who have used how ever a lot of spirals still like the regular spiral still. Th NS is a lot easier to control, cut a little slower. You need good tension, and good speed. With not enough speed you have a tendency to push too hard into the blade, you loose control over the blade. The # 3 should be about the best number for cutting close to 1/2" thickness. About the Olson blades. Olsen blades are made by the Hounstetter company in Germany. Olson never made their own blades. They are sold a lot in different stores mostly under the store name, like Delta, Dewalt. I don't know if I was of much help but i tried anyway. Here is how the new spirals are made. The regular spirals are made from regular flat blades. Before they are hardened, they go through a machine to twist them. That machine looks like a Roto router. Seen it and was very impressed. The regular spiral are somewhat aggressive and have a mind of their own. Hard to control, they like to go to the soft spots in the wood. However I have to say, that the people who have used them for a long time and know how to work with them, will stay with the regular spirals because they cut faster. The New Spirals are also made from regular flat blades. It is a compete new design and this blade would not be good to use as a regular flat blade. This new blade has teeth on the front as well on the back( this is patent). Because of this, the teeth are smaller and less aggressive and much easier to control. The user is the boss not the blade, like as with the regular spirals. I feel that the company came out with a new spiral what made it so much easier to use by people who did not like the other spirals, like myself. I hope I explained it OK Mike

Hi Mark, Check this: http://mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm It gives you the blade number with the t.p.i of each blade. Not every company is the same but most are very close. Mike

Hi Edward, Sue is right about the tension. Also good speed is better than low speed. With low speed you have a tendency to push too hard into the blade and you will loose control over the blade. Let the blade do the cutting. Check this tutorial from Carter Johnson, he uses the Puzzle blades. http://mikesworkshop.com/Carter%20Johns ... torial.htm Mike

Send me your address and I will send you a sample of the FD-NS # 2/0. Quite a few like to use them to cut portraits. Mike

Christina, you bet we missed you. Hope you get to draw again soon, all the best from. Mike

Hi John, Glad you found it. I also just joined. Mike

New to this forum. I just joined. Thanks Travis for your help. I think most of you know me, if not please check my web site at: http://www.mikesworkshop.com. I see that there are many customers of mine on this forum. Glad to help if anyone has questions. Mike