JTTHECLOCKMAN

Yours Bill. In service manual it is listed as a 5amp and cost $6(now that is a rip off) https://www.kingcanada.com/en/products/woodworking/scroll-saws/

I figured they were all the same. Now you know.

Talk about fuses, I thought that was a 5 amp fuse for them. Let me check again. Yep calls for a 5amp fuse according to the manual. Yea no matter weather warm or cold if the saw was operated before and then sat for a long period of time it could have grease solidify some or something. Maybe something else but that would have been my first guess. Could run that thing for 10 years and never have another fuse blow.

Towards bottom of page 2. This thread took on some life that most threads here do not. This may help others because there are alot of those type saws out there.

He said he did not use the saw for a long time. Sitting out in a shed in elements could have rusted the armature abit, stiffened the grease in the bearings, or a number of things. He tried spinning the motor by hand to get it to work so this may have freed things up. The fuse blew due to the extra current to try to start. These things can happen for people who have garage shops or shed shops and have tools that sit for long periods of time. This would be my educated guess.

Well that confuses things even more. Maybe the color of the saw can tell the difference in place made. I know the saws Ray is putting out now are not called Excaliburs but it would be hard pressed to tell the difference except for the tilt box he added. To me they are all clones and call it what you want. Cosmetic changes here and there. I remember when the Dewalt moved out of Canada and the mess that created and those saws still show up and cause havoc. Type #1 saws were sought after when that took place. I am guessing things calmed down with those.

What year is it?? I am abit confused now that Randy has chimed in. Are there only one type EXcaliburs?? I thought Seyco was the one making them and not China. We maybe talking about 2 different saws here.

Ray take a photo of where that chord connects to the saw and post it. Hard to believe yours is not in the same place.

Hard to get Delta parts these days. It has been talked about here. People liked the blade clamp on them.

Oh be careful about downplaying the Dewalt saw here. There are people that truely love them and they get brought up all the time. I myself was a huge RBI guy as you probably remember but like with everything when they sold the business they went down hill and I do not recommend an RBI to anyone any more. Seems like the new player which it too is another clone of the Dewalt/ Excalibur, is the Pegas. By the way glad it worked out.

My point was for others incase they are reading this too and run into this problem. Bill has dabbled in everything believe me. Let him get a video up and he will sing a song or two while playing his guitar.

You always start at power source. From outlet to saw. If you have a footswitch, eliminate that. Never go diving into a control board if you do not know what you are doing. The diagrams I am looking at for all these type clone saws show an external fuse black. Maybe disguised but there. Those that have an excaliber where is the fuse on your saw??

Every photo I have seen for Excellsior and excalibur have the fuse block directly underneath the plug that connects to the saw and the photos are from 2017. Maybe the earlier ones did not have this but I know the Dewalts and Excaliburs had them. I can not find a manual online that shows that fuse #30. If someone has a link maybe I can figure it out. Found a manual Looks like the fuse is part of the chord socket. I would take the chord out of socket and look behind it to see if that is where the fuse is. If not see if you can pry the socket out and see if the fuse is behind the entire socket. It says #38 goes into #37 The fuse will always be before any controls or any boards. It should be right after the power chord. Has to be. It is protecting the entire saw. Follow the power chord and you will find the fuse. https://www.kingcanada.com/en/products/woodworking/scroll-saws/

If it is a knock off of the excaliber then look under the chord where it plugs into the saw. The fuse on those is under there. Wonder who this guy is?? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvoTHxs3IrU

I hear you Dan. I am out of this. Is there a white flag I can use?? I believe it will be better for the site for me to step aside for awhile. I bring too much controversy at times and it is not needed. My apologies to all.

Again Kevin with the comparison of on line sales and show sales A show is as only as good as the sponsor. Advertising of the show can be done many more ways than years ago now with today's social media platforms. Years ago it was newspapers and fliers. But what happens is a show can get and make a name for itself and it becomes an event. Every crafter there has a hand in helping promote a show and getting the word out. Weather it is through self promoting or just overall promoting the fact there is a good craft show with lots of neat crafters. I guess on line selling is somewhat the same in that there are crafters of all genre and customers can browse from their homes. It takes the owner of the site to promote his site too. There is no way for either promoter to bring the right buyer to the site weather show or on line because who is to say the right buyer is. All you can do is promote what is available. You can not force someone to buy things. Promoter can not promote a particular seller but can promote various genre of what can be had such as woodworking, sewing, paintings and such. General categories. It can be promoted with brand names if there are some that partake in shows or on-line sales at a site. But again I have to stress to you , the main difference between selling at a show and on line is twofold.The interaction with a real live person can not be duplicated on line!!!! Also the fact that the show is a one day or couple day event as with on line it is a 365 day 24 hour a day event. Means the world because of the eyes you have to see your product. People shopping at shows are mainly impulse buying. People on line are targeting shoppers. Big difference. People doing shows will many times have cards made up with the list of events they attend so that customers can make plans. This has been going on since the inception of shows. It works great if you do both shows and on line sales and that is the best of both worlds. Not many people do this because of the work involved. You have to remember many people do this as a hobby and not full time and if retired still do it as a hobby. Not many people are young and energetic to do all the work it takes to do both and hobbies are dying. Now I am not going to ruin another thread with going down the same path about differences between shows and online sales. But there are similarities but also some stark differences and leave it at that. As for Jim and his sales just chalk it up to another show and move on. As I said chasing that perfect price point is impossible. Chasing that perfect selling item is impossible. Chasing that best selling tactic is impossible. Be happy and enjoy what you are doing while you can and all else will fall into play.

Means absolutely nothing I am afraid. Could be not many people were looking for a phone stand. Who knows if you sold for $6 you would have sold 4. Would be $4 richer and 2 stands less. You will drive yourself crazy pricing things and trying to figure out potential customers especially at a show. Good luck with further sales.

It really is not that bad because how often do you change a blade in one sitting when you think about it.

Just out of curiosity why not buy one from Hegner and be done with it. Or Here. https://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/category/-hegner-clamps https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/collections/types?q=Scroll Saw Accessories

Just a word of caution, if you are going to scroll with that thing running, wear hearing protection. You will be glad you did over the long run. Trust me.

Is the paint enamel or acrylic. Acrylic will give a better shine. Oh and did you shake the can for at least 2 minutes.??

Exact reason I never date my projects either. I sell year to year and if does not sell that year it returns next year and so on.

This was one of my points and tips. Just because project looks fragile and tiny cuts does not mean you have to step down in size of blades. To me the #5 is the king of blades. I have used a #7 or #9 when I needed a wider kerf as with those fold down baskets or trivets as they are called. Now I have used many 2/0 blades but they were jewelers blades when I scroll brass. There you do not and I mean not spin a blade you will break easily.

I sign them all the time using a branding iron. Yours looks professional. I would continue to do that. Never know when you become famous they will be worth alot of money. Nice work by the way.

I have read this compressor trick a few times here when using oils. I have never found that necessary. Why you have so much pooling in fret work is mind boggling to me. If you lay the piece down it has to drain and the remaining has to be absorbed in the cutouts. The only time I had that happen was as I said if I double dipped because the wood was already sealed and I stopped doing that many years ago. I found that to be a waste of time. Maybe because I use red oak and it is more porous is the reason I do not run into this. But I have done the same with mahogany, maple, walnut and many others.