two saws
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Everything posted by two saws
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Chance, I have converted to a foot switch after 5 years and can't beleive I didn't do it sooner!! I would recommend useing the off and on eather the one you keep your foot on to saw and lift your foot to stop, or the one you press down to start,take your foot off and the saw continues to run,than to stop the saw you tap the pedal and it stops. Eather one would be the best to use instead of a varable pedal. Thats works great for a sewing a machine but not for cutting wood!! You run the danger of snapping a blade in a turn on thicker wood and as stated in the reply above ruining a fragile fretwork. One other thing, if you have been scrolling for a few years prepare to break the habit of turning off the saw with the switch thats on the saw!! I am still doing that but it will come around! I also have an old electric clock(the one with a cord attached to plug into an outlet) that I have connected to the pedal to keep track of the time it takes to cut a project. Ervin
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Mal, When my sister past away 4 years ago, my brother inlaw gave me her Delta one speed scroll saw and I mounted it a heavy work bench and it still vibrated some but not as much as it did on what she had it mounted on. As far as changing to the Quick clamps, I couldn't tell you about that. You might give Delta a call and ask for the parts dept or the service dept and see if they could help you. I don't have that saw any longer as I didn't have any need for it. Sister use it to cut werly gigs out of 3/4 in. pine and poplar wood. Hope this helps. Ervin
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Huntter2022, I just butt glue 1/4" and clamp the 2 together and have not had a problem with separation. Its a matter of keeping them from bowing, so I took 4 short pieces of scrap 3" or so wide and 4"to 5" long and routed a groove 1/4"to 3/8" wide and the same deep. when you glue up the wood, put 1 on top and 1 on bottom at each end of the board with the groove straddling the glue joint and clamp them down then apply the clamps to close the joint. This will ensure a flat board when the glue cures. Ervin
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I use 3M adhesive for the simple reason that it sticks the pattern to the wood or to the blue painters tape and does not let the pattern lift. I have tried other adhesives but found I had to use more to keep the pattern down. 3M is expensive but it sure beats trying to reglue the pattern down or having it tear in the process. This is just my opinon, take it for what it is worth. Ervin
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The blades might be the problem, but I would beleive that the table is not square with the blade. If you have a small machinst square (3" or so) check to see if the blade is a true 90' to the table. Another way of checking is to take a scrap peice of thick wood 3/4" or thicker, and make a cut about 1" or so than place it at the rear of the blade while it is still running. If the table is square the blade should slip into the cut with no or very little resistance. The squareness of the table needs to be checked often and each time that you stack cut or do compound cuts. One word of advise for compound cuts, DO NOT rush the feeding of the wood into the blade, you have to let the blade do the cutting other wise the object will turn out misshapened. This will test your patience because of the slowness but the reward of a perfect project is worth it!! I hope this helps you and make more sawdust!! Ervin
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It is probley a little difficult to find an electric clock anymore in the retail stores. Try the second hand stores or the restore stores( thats what they are known as here ) where you can find items for homes that are still useable but out of date. If all else fails, check out Klockit.com, they have the electric movements to build your own and are not that expensive. The movement could be used to replace the battery movement in the inexpensive clocks found at Wal Mart, Target, etc. Happy hunting; it might be worth it!! Ervin
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When I first started and ended up with a spare bedroom full we decided to try craft shows and turned out to be a very good way to make enough funds to continue my "hobby" . I also give away, donate, give as gifts and in general have fun with the "hobby". Ervin
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I haven't tried a foot switch but I believe that I will purchase one since I seen this tip in one of the scroll mags recently. The person said to obtain a 3 way electric plug and plug that into the foot switch than plug the scroll saw into the plug than plug the foot switch into the outlet. You than obtain an electric clock ( cannot be a ditatal clock) plug that into the 3 way and set the hands to 12 o'clock, this will give you a way of knowing how long it takes to cut a project as the clock will start and stop as you use the foot switch to start and stop the saw.I am sure this has been used before but first time I have seen it in print. Ervin
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I have put some new photos in my album. It has been awhile but trying to do some different items for craft shows. Ervin
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Ah yes, the art of relearning and wondering why we brothered to try it once more!! LOL!! Ervin
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From what you said on your last post, I understand that you are using the clear packing tape on top of your patterns. I used to use that type of tape and had the same problem with the dust getting under the tape, until I read about putting the tape on the wood first than attach the pattern to the tape. By doing this you will eleminate the dust problem and if you have a glare problem that is eleminated also. I have since started using blue painters tape as it will lubricate the blade just as well and for me it doesnt leave a residue like the clear tape seems to. This is just my opinion for what its worth, hope it will help you. Ervin
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That is a very nice box and I really like the feet that you used, very differant!! Good job!! Ervin
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Welcome to the world of scrolling !! I have been scrolling for 5 years and I use both spiral and regular blades from Flying Dutchman. Being in agreement with every one about using the smallest drill bit that you can get the blade through is the start. If you use the regular blades to cut the veining with, than go back with a # 2/0 spiral and it will open up the width and will hide the entrance hole. There is another way of doing veining that requires using 2 blades put together and clamp into the blade holders. This works fairly well once you get the hang of getting the blades exactly match up to each other. Hope this helps and good cutting!!! Ervin
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Steve and Terry, If it has been determened that the diaphram is split or otherwise inoperatable,that part is still available from Replacement Parts.com. But first take a look at the tube that connedts to the flexable nozzle abd see if it is kinked or if it is stopped up. When I took delivery on a new P-20 Delta I had the same problem of no air to the nozzle. After removing an inspection panel at the rear of the saw, I found that the tube had been installed with a very serious kink in it. After removing the tube and routing it like it should have been the blower worked just fine. The company that I stated above is extremly good to work with and if they have the part in stock it will be shipped the same day. I did notice that the diaphram would have a 1to2 week shipping time. They have parts available for nearly any brand tool thats available now and parts for discontined tools. Hope this helps,good luck. Ervin
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Kevalb, Travis has stated and I was sure I wouldn't be able to photo copy the plans and send to you. The designer of the clock is John A. Nelson ,but I do not have an Email address for him. If you happen to have one of the many books he has had published, it may be listed in one of them. Prehaps one of the other members here might know and could give it to you. Good luck and wish I could have helped you more. Ervin
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I like to use walnut,cherry,red oad,poplar and bubinga. I mostaly use red oak and poplar because of the 2 big box stores here. Any thing else I have to order. I too have trouble with cutting cherry and maple(when I can get it) with the burning even with changing the blades often and using blue painters tape with a layer of clear packing tape on top of that, than attaching the pattern. Just have to cut a lot slower than normal to minimise the burn. Ervin
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Kevalb, I have that issue of CW&C dec. 1996 . That skeleton clock shown on the cover is a mini size. Finish size is approx 6 1/2 inches tall. At the time Klockit had a skeleton clock movement that was used in this clock. I have searched their website but dont beleive they have that movement anymore. The nearest they show is a Quartz Skeleton Movement that measures 5 "1/8 H x4 "7/8 W x 1 "11/16D. You could resize the plan to that movement though. Now than, how do I get the copy of the plan plus the detailed instructions to you and be legal. Maybe Travis can advise. Ervin
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Bruce, that is an outstanding cut and finsh!! Beautiful job and with the red background it stands out!! Ervin
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I really like to do portrait style cuts but they just dont sell and I dont have the room to keep them so the next best things are crosses and word art and boxes. Ervin
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Well there is more than 1 tool on my wish list ,such as a 14 inch band saw, a planer, a router and table and a shop streacher!! lol. Hopefully one of these will appear under the tree,if not will just have to save my pennies and nickles till next year. Ervin
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Im all for it!! Give it a go! Ervin
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Dennis, there is a gentleman here that would take you down for your dragons and especially this clock!! Very nice!! Ervin
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As I said you have been busy!! These 4 pieces are excellent both in the clean cuts and the finish!! The snowmen & the dragon are outstanding!! Ervin
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You have been one busy dude!! The finish on the pine is excellent and ditto on the cuts!! Nicely done!! Ervin
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Very nice tribute rememberance for your son and I can see why your wife loves it!! Very nicely done!! Ervin