Dan
-
Posts
7,234 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
88
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by Dan
-
Thanks John. That's one of the great things about this site, the ideas are never-ending. I was just at a liquor store last weekend and it never dawned on me to check the dumpster. I may have to stop off there tomorrow and pick up some "wood".
-
That's awesome, Mike. Congrats!
-
Nice work on both the design and the cut.
-
Travis, I just pictured my scroll saw table with dozens of holes drilled in it. I know exactly what you mean, though. That's the one reason I haven't attempted some excellent patterns that have hundreds of cuts. The cutting is one thing, but having to drill all the holes is another. What I'd like in a scroll saw is a cup holder that will keep saw dust out of my drink and a radio that only plays the music I'm in the mood for. Oh, and why not a 20 year old red-head to massage my neck and shoulders every 15 minutes.
-
Hi Joe. Welcome to the village. I've done a few jigsaw puzzles and didn't think I could do it freehand, but to my surprise, it's very easy. I've heard some folks use Modge Podge, but I have no experience with it. I use Krylon's Triple Thick Glaze. One coat gives a durable finish. I wouldn't try to glue a pattern on top of it though. To practice making puzzles, I glued some old Christmas cards to 1/4" plywood and started cutting. By the time I finished the first card, I felt very comfortable without a pattern. Give it a try. Most puzzle makers don't use patterns. Some use the picture to decide where to cut and turn out some great work. BTW, I just started turning pens about 8 months ago. It's very addictive. Good luck with your puzzles. Show us some pictures!
-
Bugsy came out great. Looks just like a hamster.
-
Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze will give you a high-gloss, wet look. The only problem is you must have good ventilation. Otherwise, I'd go with a spray-on poly.
-
Travis nailed it on the head. I've done a few bowls and I just set the table tilt close to the angle needed. The pieces never fit perfectly and it does take a lot of sanding. Once sanded, the bowls look amazing. The first one I made from pine so I could see what I was in for. I was fustrated until I finished sanding then saw how well things fit. If I make any more of them (and I probably will) I'll invest in an oscillating sander.
-
Welcome to the forum. Lot of info here and we all learn new things everyday. As for you question, I use blue painter's tape over the plexiglass and glue the pattern to the tape. Cut at about 600 spm and have fun.
-
I know exactly what you're talking about. There are smaller (much smaller) drill bits. for a #3 blade I use a #63 drill bit. The #3 blade just fits the hole. It still leaves a slightly round entry hole in the vein, but it is much less noticeable. After I make the veining cut, I will sometimes cut back into the blade entry hole to smooth it out a bit and make the hole even less noticeable. Most of the online stores that you purchase patterns and blades will have these small drill bits. Mike's Workshop http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm tells you what size drill bit to use for the blade you have. I remember being at a county fair a few years ago and saw a guy selling Christmas ornaments. His work was filled with the little "sperms". I wanted to tell him about it, but didn't want to offend him. I knew he put a lot of work into it.
-
Hi Dave. I have a piece of moose antler and some day will scroll it. My wife got it for me when we were in Alaska. It's been three years and still haven't tackled it. I'll follow this post to see what others have to say.
-
I just found some Aleen's clear tacky glue. I haven't used it yet, but Aleen's regular tacky glue works great. This new stuff is goes on clear and dries clear. I have a problem with wanting to use too much glue. Hopefully this new stuff will not show so much.
-
I used the puzzle blades from Mike and they are very good. I was also advised by puzzle maker Carter Johnson to use poplar plywood because it's easier on the blades. What a difference. I did some postcard sized puzzles with 1/4" birch plywood and went through 3 blades. When I used the 1/4" poplar plywood I used just 1 blade. That's my 2 pennies.
-
Nicholas, You have a very good saw. The DW788 is probably the most popular. I don't own one, but I would consider it if I was to buy a new one. And it is normal for the blade to move as you described. There are some saws that move the blade more perpendicular to the table, but the DeWalt isn't one of them. I don't know if you can make any adjustments to it. One of the DeWalt owners may be able to help you there. As you describe you cuts, when you say the back side, are you talking about the side that sits on the saw table as you cut? If so, it may be the blades you are using. Reverse tooth blades should eliminate (or at least reduce) the tearout. Olson and Flying Dutchman both make great blades. Here is a list of suppliers: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/wiki/index.php?title=Commercial_material_suppliers. Also you can go to Mike's Workshop at http://www.mikesworkshop.com/.
-
Hi neighbor! Welcome to a great site. Where abouts in Indiana do you live?
-
Marshall, Shane will love it. You did a great job! I love when people combine differnt patterns or alter them to make something new and unique.
-
Nicholas, I wouldn't worry about the poly finish peeling/flaking over time if the finished piece is kept dry. I used Minwax polyurethane on our dining room table over 13 years ago and with all the punishment the table gets, there's no peeling or flaking. I agree with c_lang that sanding between coats will give a smooth finish. I sometimes wax after the poly because I like how it feels. If you have a piece that will be subject to weather, try using a spar varnish. I put six coats on a sign made of pine and six years later it still looks great. Hope you find what works for you. Everyone has a different take on things.
-
Congrats!
-
Awesome! That would make a great Christmas gift for a loved one.
-
Nice job, Frieke! What software did you use to make the pattern?
-
Hey Mark. There are many ways to stack cut and you will probably use a little bit of info from everyone that posts. Here's my thoughts. Whenever I stack cut I always make sure my table is set at exaclty 90 degrees to the blade. The more detail in the cuts the smaller the stack. If I cut portraits from 1/8" stock, I will only stack 4 or 5 depending on how much detail. Always cut the interior cuts first (yeah, this is from experience). I use clear packing tape over the project to reduce burning. Bright lights, a drink, and good music make things much better, also. Have fun and post some pics.
-
That's pretty cool. Next, glue different species of wood and cut it. You said you used the scroll saw to cut the inside. Couldn't you have drilled it out? What I like about this site is that when it comes to ideas, the cup is always overflowing.
-
I built a 3' x 6' table from two-by-fours that was meant for doing sanding and finishing of my scroll work. But my father-in-law gave me a lathe and the bench was the prefect size for it. So now I'm back to using what little space I can find, including an old typewriter table. My wife told me to build another bench after I moved some tools into the basement.
