kmmcrafts

Yeah the logo on the back uprights is the newer style logo.. I'm not sure when they started using this logo.. but I know it's newer than my 1998.. I'm thinking this logo style came around 2003 ish.. Looks like you got a decent deal for sure..

I think most all wood changes color over time.. I'm not sure if it's part of a drying process or being exposed to light? Maybe the wood experts will chime in on this.. Years ago I made my wife a wedding ring cross out of purple heart as our wedding colors was purple.. anyway after about a couple years it turned brown ( the cross... not the wedding or marriage) Back then when I commented about it everyone said the purple heart does that if it is exposed to light.. It's only brown on the surface. sanding it ( allot ) changes it back to purple.. I'm not sure if you was to finish it with a UV ray type clear if it'd help or not.. I can only assume this might be what has happened to your piece here.. Maybe a sanding mop would help with the sanding? I don't have or never used one but I've read a lot folks using them for sanding things similar to these.. I'll leave the finishing question to some more experienced with other finishes.. since I almost only use Danish oil finishes..

I have the worktunes as well and use them if running loud machines in the shop.. or mowing etc..

I think this might work to move that sawdust.. You would need a hard hat and epoxy glue the hose onto the hat so when you look down it blows the dust off the line.. https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-570BTS-powerful-X-Torq-Backpack/dp/B008JL05I4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_12

It cuts easy.. just the sawdust is like sticky or something.. maybe sap from the tree? Not sure.. it does smell good to cut for a short while.. but after cutting several hours it gets a bit strong for me anyway..

Congrats on the new to you Hawk.. I sure like the Ultra model Hawks.. I've been watching one that is local to me waiting it out to see if it sells or not.. I might message them if it's still for sale in a few weeks to see if I can strike a deal.. I really don't need 4 Hawks though.. But if I land a deal I'll sell my old round barrel clamp style one and the Ex - 21 is probably going to be finding a new home soon to..

I quit cutting cedar shortly after starting.. there was two reasons.. and this was one of them.. The other reason was it was quite fragile.. not much strength to it after cutting out all the inside cuts.. I made ornaments with it thinking they'd be pretty out of the reddish color plus many people like the smell of it.. But for me they broke very easily.. the sawdust around the blade as you are experiencing.. also to me the smell was quite strong and irritating.. But I'll admit I cut it back when I was first learning scroll work back in 2005 ish.. never cut it again, LOL

I use Pandora app on my cell phone and have a small bluetooth speaker.. Sounds pretty darn good, My son has a "BOOM" brand speaker which sound good but the one they just got me for fathers day is this one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07235Z1GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As for the app.. I use the free verson which has some commercials / ads.. but I think ad free is $5.99 a month? I don't mind a commercial ever 4-8 songs so I'm cheap..

Awesome, Are you glad you waited 1 year to decide on that one, LOL Those are great saws.. Ray is a great guy and Seyco is a great company to deal with should you ever need anything.. He has helped me and is currently helping me with a saw that he doesn't even support.. The China made Excalibur..

The small hammer or the bigger 5 lb hammer..

Congrats! Enjoy making lots of sawdust!!

Well, don't feel bad because I'm pretty sure most scroll sawers either don't oil or forget too.. myself included.. that's why I keep all the extra parts.. and some saws don't really have a maintenance guideline to follow.. Who wants to take time to oil the saw when we have projects to make.. Now.. I'd check with the manual to see if it requires any oil... some of those type brass bushings have a lubricant made right in to the brass when they are made.. This could be the case... and when they wear you just replace.. The oil is a sawdust bed so I would go with whatever the manual suggest.. That soft brass is designed to wear out instead of the cast iron.. that's why they make those out of that soft material.. It's cheaper and easier to replace the bushing than the whole saw.. ( this is one difference between a cheap saw and a quality made saw... cheap ones are just throw away... though some of us take them apart and repair them anyway )..

I agree with Don, Buy extras.. LOL I do this because I rely on my saw to make money... Yesterday I was cutting with my oldest Hawk 1993 220VS and a bearing started squealing right near the end of my work day so I stopped cutting and took it apart.. pressed in the new bearings and put it back together.. No wait time for bearings and parts to come in the mail.. They are just a standard bearing in my Hawk and can be picked up at any hardware type store.. I need to get a couple more since the last time this happen I bought extras but now I'm out on that size bearing.. I gotta say it's nice to have the parts on hand.. I buy extras and put in a ziplock bag and tape the bag to the stand of the saw so i know where to find them.. Funny though, I have a complete set of bearings etc for a DeWalt saw.. but I sold that saw about 2 years ago, LOL. I kept the bearings thinking they'd work in my Excalibur.. which most will but the sleeves are different and I can't find a source for just the sleeves yet.. I have about $250 in DeWalt parts..

The bushing is what's worn.. that is soft brass and will wear many times faster than the spot on the cast iron part.. the paint is about all that looks worn there.. IMO.. but the bushing is clearly worn.. I mean.. if you want a new saw and have the money for it.. but if it were me.. I'd just replace the bushing.. Appears to have not ever seen any oil? My Hawk is made similar and it requires a drop or two of light oil every 25 ish hours of run time.. on those areas where the arms are connected..I think this is probably the case with the Hegner too? I will say though.. if you go the route of a new bushing.. Buy all of them and just rebuild the saw.. if it hasn't been oiled.. you might have the other one worn too..

It really depends on the blade I'm using as to whether I back the blade up or not. ( probably not an issue if you feed the blade through from the top.. ). The FD - UR blades have that notch at the top of them and it's hard to get it through the thin cut so if I'm using those blades then i back it out.. otherwise to me it's just a waist of time to back it out.. Most all the veining I do is I first cut with straight blade then go to the 2/0 FD-NS blade to widen it ..

I don't know what you have in the UK for parts stores etc.. but if it was me.. I'd take the arm off the saw and take it to a parts store ( preferably a bearing store but many tractor parts stores etc.. carry bearings / bushings / sleeves etc... maybe even a auto parts store.. I highly doubt the bushing is a specialty size etc.. most equipment manufactures just buy the bearings etc.. If you have a dial caliper you could measure the inside diameter and the outside diameter then the width / length etc.. and you should be able to find a bearing that you need.. A specialty bearing shop should be able to determine what kind and size of bearing you need.. Odds are the bearing store or a tractor / auto parts store will have it cheaper than through the dealer.. since dealers just buy them anyway.. then mark them up so they make a small profit..

I tried the foam things from Harbor Freight on my saw and it made more vibration than I had.. Years ago I had a Dremel model 1800 scroll saw and it vibrated bad.. even mounted to the stand.. I put a piece of the carpet foam between the saw and the stand.. then run the saw through the speeds as i tighten the bolts to the stand.. and got it running pretty smooth.. If I cranked the bolts tight it was bad.. and too loose it was bad.. so I just kept running at speeds while tightening the bolts and found the sweet spot.. Took quite some time to do but was a really smooth saw afterwards.. That was before I had my new shop with a nicely laid concrete floor..

Try loosening the bolts to the stand and let the legs settle in the spot you plan to park it at.. Assuming it's a factory stand or metal bolted together stand similar to the factory style.. My EX-21 and Hawk saws sometimes will get bumped and moved slightly because the shop radio is on a shelf behind the saw.. and it can be a tight fit to get to the power switch on the radio.. If the saw gets bumped and move ever so slightly it'll pick up some vibration.. I sort of kick out the legs to somewhat get it to it's resting spot.. Anytime I move a saw in the shop I either have to bump it around to find it's sweet spot where the legs set firmly on the floor or loosen the stand to get it perfect again.. I have a concrete floor that is very smooth and level unless you get to the very edge.. next to the wall.. and that is where all my saws sit.. back legs get in the edge of the floor.. Kids got me a Blue Tooth speaker for fathers day.. now I don't need to get back to the wall and shelf to access the radio that barely works.. I can change the volume etc from my phone to this little speaker they got me. Little tiny thing with some big stereo system sound.. They also got me some blue tooth headphones.. guess they're telling me they don't want to hear me on YouTube while they're watching TV, LOL

While sitting eating some cherries I thought I wonder if anyone ever carved on small cherry pits.. Google search and yeah they do.. Thought these was kinda neat.. http://www.shamey.com/pit/pit.htm

Well the one I got is the flat looking back one.. .. Not a big deal I could mount it upstairs of my shop and run the hose through the floor / wall down to my saw.. r make a muffler like you did.. I might have to re-look up your post to see some picture as to how you did it..

I think this is a shoulder bolt and inside the arm will be a pressed in brass bearing / bushing.. If there is slop.. it's probably most likely the brass bushing since it is softer than the shoulder bolt.. Though for some reason I tend to change both even though likely no wear or very little on the bolt itself.. If you have a dial caliper you could measure the wear.. I believe the new arm will come with a new bushing pressed in.. I'm not 100% sure on all of this as i have no experience with the Hegner type saws.. but looking at them over the years I've come to the conclusion that this is the case.. maybe not on all of their saws? I don't know..

If I remember correctly you have basically a Hegner with a different name? I believe they have a brass bushing / bearing.. In my mind a bearing has rollers ( ie balls or needle rollers in them ) I know they are considered bearings but I call them bushings LOL.. Anyway that said.. those brass bushings can give fits trying to press them in...especially without proper tools.. so you might be ahead by buying the arm anyway.. Before I got the proper tools to press those bushings in.. I broke a few of those brass bushings trying to press them in years ago while rebuilding a front end on a lawn tractor.. The bushing it soft brass and if you can't press it in evenly and easily they break or deform quite easily.. also depends on the thickness of the bushing wall I'm sure.. the ones I was working with were real thin walled.. maybe 1/16 wall thickness if that..

Well count me in on the MetroVac owner now.. I've been watching these on eBay ever since Ray bought his.. I almost took the plunge when Ray first posted the link to the one he got.. but I waited to see what he thought of it.. well the price kept inching upwards.. and got up to $90.. sorry I'm not paying that then having to fiddle around with making a setup to work.. when I could just buy one from Ray all ready to go with all that I'd need for it.. Anyway I found one this morning new in the box for $35 so I snagged it up... My question is.. I see two different looking ones.. one looks like it has a cone on the end of it.. and I'm wondering if this is some sort of muffler.. kinda like Ray made for his.. I'll post images of both so you can see where one is flat at the end and the other has a cone shaped end to it.. suppose that's a muffler.. Seyco shows the one used is a cone shape.. and claims it to be 67db sound level.. Just wondering if the reason some mentioned them being a little louder than expected maybe it's this cone shape??

Charlotte is about 40 minutes from me.. My address is for Bellevue but I'm about 11 miles west of Bellevue schools.. I'm about 4-5 miles west of M-66.. Matt is a awesome guy and very helpful with the CNC stuff.. I suggest you watch Mark Lindsay to understand the V-carve program.. Even if you plan to buy patterns to carve.. you will still have to work with the program to enter the job size and details of what you are making.. Here is the 1st of his series..

Bill, that is very true.. each of us have different expectations and also a different eye for detail etc.. there is no right or wrong way I suppose.. any finish applied would be better than no finish at all...