kmmcrafts

Pegas MG #3 blade is the ones I had a lot of oil on.. I'm not certain they came that way though, they was in the zip lock type package that they come in however had been open but it was zipped shut so I'm not sure.. The first bunch of blades I took out didn't seem oily.. I emptied the package today and they was really oiled compared to the normal "slightly oiled" .. I had a full quart of brake fluid fall off a shelf and broke open, Brand New bottle.. LOL I doubt that got into / on them.. as I was right there when it happen ( I was the cause LOL ) but quickly cleaned it up and the outside of the pack wasn't oily

Most times I never seem to get all that much oily blade issues.. and I rarely ever clean them... however today opening up a new pack of blades the oil was almost dripping off of them.. There was no way I was putting them in my storage tubes like that as that oil would spread on the next several batches of blades and probably affect me for several months or years LOL.. So I took the three dozen I had in my hand that was getting ready to go into the tubes and went and grabbed a can of brake cleaner.. I sprayed all the blades still bundled up with the wire wrapping.. A light bulb went off in my tiny brain.. why not spray the whole batch at once like this... maybe some of you do? Back when I used to clean the blades I always did just one at a time as I used them.. Now.. you probably shouldn't do that if you're not using the blades up very fast.. That doesn't seem to be an issue for me with my most commonly used blades.. Anyway, I just thought it was easier and faster to spray them clean of oil with a quick spray of brake cleaner.. all three dozen was cleaned in less than a minute, LOL

Very Happy this worked out well for you.. I kinda had a hunch that they was the same.. as most these companies do not make their own thumb screw.. so they source them from somewhere... I'll keep it in my mind and maybe one day I'll get a Hegner saw and need the screws..

Been doing a little cutting this week.. Made two of each on most all of these.. Also cut about 15 puzzles..

I remember the old topic about the plunge router for the dremel and when this device was shown.. I have the site bookmarked.. The actual plunge router variation from the company you got this from is quite pricey if I recall correctly.. and I pondered on it for a long time before just going with the dremel plunge router.. The issue with the dremel set up is as it gets a little worn and probably a little sloppy right from the start but you have to be careful to lower it down straight.. as there is some slop from side to side on it.. The other issue is that plastic base gets dirty and hard to see through it.. I do however like the larger base of it for stability when drilling out near the edges of a project.. I like the Seyco scrollers drill.. however that is also pricey and it's not something that you could change the motor out if it were to go bad.. at least this device you can get another cheap dremel and still use your press.. I still use and use a lot my dremel plunge drill set up.. BUT.. I rarely use it for precise drilling unless I have to because of my project being to big for my small drill press.. which isn't often.. I keep my smallest bit in my drill press because I typically use it for drilling holes for small veining type lines I need to cut.. which I do quite a lot of veining cuts for body lines on the car clocks etc that I cut.. Then I use a bit larger bit in the dremel set up.. not very much larger though.. Think I run a #56 in my dremel and a #60 in my drill press.. the #56 is the smallest that a pegas MG #5 will go through and the #60 is the smallest the #3 goes through.. Those are the main blades I use.. Thanks for showing how you modified that fixed base router to be a plunge router... I might have to look into buying one of those better set-ups.. BTW.. this is the link to the items that was in the original topic last year.. Plunge Router Base https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base.html Fixed Base Router As Shown By Les https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/precision-router-base.html This is another option that I ran across the other day at Home Depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wolfcraft-Portable-Multi-Angle-Drill-Guide-with-Drill-Chuck-4525404/303283380?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100349264-_-303283380-_-N

I wish you the best in customers and sales.. Just curious since there is some topics in the business forum section.. What kind of safety precautions / measures if any are you required or voluntarily taking for both you and the shoppers? There has been some discussions about the shows recently when things start to open back up.. This would of coarse be different from one area to the next but some folks are trying to plan and ready themselves of when they can start doing events again.. I'm assuming you are just doing the outside event of your weekly farmers market..

If it's a hot topic you also can just use the bookmark feature on the village... that way you don't have to go hunting for the message.. The bookmark feature is located at the bottom of each posting just above the signature area. Then to find your bookmarks you click on your name at the top right of any page for the drop down menu and select your bookmarks tab.. or I think from the profile page as well.. You can choose to make your bookmarks public or private as well.

glad to hear you're back up and running without having to buy parts.. Though might not be a bad idea to get some extras for when the day comes and you need a new thumb screw etc.. The repair kit that Seyco sells just replaces the rotating tip and a new set screw.. They are the same as the ones for the DeWalt as I used to buy them from Seyco for my DW back in the day.. I assume they'd be the same as the Delta too..Just don't do as I did.. I thought a rebuild set 1 set screw and 1 thumb screw pin.. but it's a set for both the upper and lower clamps.. I bought one for each arm pluswanted a couple extras for each arm... needless to say.. I have enough of them for several years now..

Well I sure hope they work for you as it's a good source for you on them later down the road should you meed them again.. Looking forward to hearing back from you as to whether they work or not.. If not then I'll see about looking into this further for a different source of them.. I'm certain that swivel end piece isn't a scroll saw only type application.. someone somewhere makes these for other applications.. McMaster-Carr sells a different type of swivel end but it looks to be a swivel piece on a ball socket type deal.. That end piece is called dog cap or something like that.. but not sure that's the same as they call the removable pin like our saws have.. Anyway.. I'm hopeful that this DeWalt one will work for you..

How about this place? https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/dewalt-knob-sa-p286303-00/ I don't know what the prices mean so not sure if this is reasonable or not.. as I said in my last posting topic.. search your country for this part number 286303-00.. I do not know if the threads would be the same or even if the swivel end piece will work.. But these are the same as the one I measured in the earlier post reply.. I'm not sure of a part number or source for just the swivel.. I recall someone posting about a source for the piece long ago.. but I cannot find that topic etc. Only other source for us in the US that I know of is Seyco or A/M for just the end piece

I would give them a call before I hang up the towel on them... Well, I can't speak for A/M but Seyco has always been great to me.. I have to wonder if the messages are even getting to them.. a phone call can change your opinion of a company fairly quick.. and YES.. I do agree.. a sale is a sale.. at least for me it is.. and sometimes that even means loosing money to gain a future customer.. many of my return customers I went above and beyond lost money and they now come back every year for custom gifts they buy for family and friends.. Also don't forget.. we all are in a pandemic.. and here in the USA.. the leaders have shut down most non essential business throughout all states.. even though only about 6 areas of the whole USA are really affected the rest of the country is wondering why we are shut down, LOL.. I don't know how it is or what sources are in the UK.. but there has to be a company willing to sell parts to you from the USA it seems like.. ereplacementparts.com maybe? as I've said many times.. the DeWalt, Excalibur, King, Pegas etc etc.. all use that same tip.. Though for most of these companies they only sell the whole thumb screw.. still not cheap.. I think if I could get a part number for just the tip I could probably find a source.. but even amazon sells the whole new screw.. This place was the cheapest I seen in just a quick look.. https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/dewalt-knob-asy-clamp-286303-00 Threads may be different and the size of the tip would be that of what I showed you when I posted the picture of me measuring mine.. only way to know for sure would be to buy one and try it I guess.. Maybe try this part number ( 286303-00 ) and search online.. This is a DeWalt part number.. if you get nothing off of the number.. try putting DeWalt in the search and then the number.. maybe get lucky and find a local source..

Did you try cleaning the ends of the thumb screw and set screw? Maybe rough the ends with sanding paper?.. Somewhere someone posted photos of drilling a hole in a piece of scrap wood just large enough to thread the thumb screw into as well as the set screw.. then put a sheet of sand paper on a flat surface and sand... this makes sure you have them straight when sanding them.. I've ruined some set screws doing it without this method as it's quite difficult to hold them completely straight without them threaded into a scrap board.. I typically use a 1/4' BB scrap piece to do this.. I don't remember the size drill bit you need so you may have to try a few times to get one the right size where you can thread the screws into it.. Also.. the thumb screws clamps etc are the same as those from Dewalt.. If you only need the screws or the rotating pins in the end of the thumb screw.. You can buy them from Ray at Seyco.. They are the same thread size etc as the Excalibur.. I used to buy them for my DeWalt from Ray.. Also you could upgrade to the Pegas blade chucks if you need to buy the whole blade chucks. You can use either the ones made for the Excalubur and use the tension system like the Ex has or buy the set made for the DeWalt.. and use your existing tension lever on your saw..

I'm probably wrong but I was in the understanding that the letters came out to be just additions to the base model.. ie G0555 is the very first one and the base model.. The GO555LA35 is the same saw but a special anniversary edition.. (custom black paint), and the GO555XH is also same saw but larger 1-3/4 horse motor.. I believe all the GO555 saws are the same basic saw frame.. the letters indicate different editions to that.. I believe there is a 3/4 horse model too.. or there was.. it was slightly cheaper. I went with the 1 hp anniversary model because it wasn't but $10 or so more and had the 1hp and fancy black paint & stickers

I hope you report back at some point and tell us what style sell better than the other.. Just curious.. It'd be interesting to know.. At some point I plan on making many of the car clock patterns I have into key racks and will be using the metal style hooks like you started out with.. Been a plan of mine in the works now for 5 years.. Hope to do some of them this year..

Here is how I have done them.. If it were me.. I would drill a hole about 1/4" below the door line where it meets the line the goes below the window and cut down to the bottom of the door and then turn and cut along the bottom just a little ways on each end of the door.. then I would drill a hole in the body line below the window and cut along that area but not all the way.. then up about 1/4" from the front of the window drill another hole and cut that body line all along the top and curved around to just before the door line on the rear window.. hope that makes sense.. Here is a couple more photos of door lines and body lines just to give an idea.. I make a lot of my car clock patterns just from line art drawings or coloring pages.. really no right or wrong way to do it as long as you are decent at cutting those body lines out good and straight.. doing body lines of a car is like trying to cut text out... straying off the lines really shows up.. Also to add.. I typically cut my body lines with a flat blade and then go over then again with a 2/0 spiral.. to do a little veining.. they show up much better that way.. Good luck.. like to see a finished piece when you're done.. If you need some other ideas.. you could go to my website link in my signature and check out my desk clock section.. I've done quite a few cars.. there should be some ideas on how I do those body lines etc..

Maybe a picture of the cars you are asking about? I'm not sure what you are referring too.. This is a clock I made.. and I just leave bridges so it all stays together.. but I'm not sure if this is a type of project you are referring too..

When I made them a few years back I used the wooden pegs.. But I gotta be honest.. and the oddball of the group.. I like the look of the metal one shown in the photo.. so just goes to show you.. this is a matter of opinion.. just as scroll saws and saw blades, LOL Hawk is best...no Pegas is best.. no DeWalt is the best for the money, LOL Let your customers decide which way they want it.. I personally like the contrast between the metal and the wood.. Want to get into painting the wood ones? start offering colors, stain them etc etc.. But I do like contrast with many wood and home decor types of things.. That's just me though..

I'm just curious if you have checked your spam folder... Ray at Seyco is usually very good about messaging.. and it sounds like the folks at A/M are too.. so I'm just wondering if the replies are hitting your spam filter..

I do just enough color that I feel I would need a color.. and if this transfer deal like the video of this topic showed i could see me doing quite a lot with that.. I've had a idea bouncing around my brain a few years with doing this transfer type stuff to wood.. The one you mentioned I looked up.. I won't be paying no grand for a printer.. I doubt I've even used a grand worth of ink through my inkjet printer in all the years I've used it.. including the price I paid for my printer, LOL.. But not to say I wouldn't buy it on sale or a refurbished one.. for a few hundred less.. I'll keep my eye open for some refurbished, or sales.. even maybe used..

I used to ship a lot of my scrolled work to the UK.. They used to be my most international buyers until the folks from Australia and and Italy found me.. Maybe the VAT started getting them harder because about 2 years ago is when it all of a sudden came to a halt for the UK orders.. still get some here and there but not like it used to be.. I've never had any issues with shipping international anywhere I've shipped to.. other than one item i shipped to France got delayed for a long time in customs but the customer did finally get it about 2 weeks after I refunded her.. thankfully she was nice enough to re-pay me.. took a total of 7 weeks for that package, LOL

I do agree with that.. I bought a thermal printer to do shipping labels because of the inkjet ink prices and then the hassle of fighting with paper jams etc.. But I still use my Epson 7610 for printing patterns, and customer receipts etc.. I've not had much issues with inkjet like many do.. but I also believe it to be because I use it.. ALOT.. The biggest issues with printers is the ink gets dried up in the print head because of lack of use.. I print several papers a day.. either receipts or patterns.. I do use a bit of ink.. replace the the black with the XL series about every 2 -3 months maybe.. or about 4 times a year.. used to be about 6 times until I got the label printer.. now NO ink for labels.. I'll bet the laser printers are pricey for the wide format.. One I have was not a cheap one either.. but it was the new kid on the block so I did pay a premium because of that.. Think I have around $350 is for mine.. I bet it's down to $130 now that it's been out for a few years, lol My next printer will be laser though.. always wanted to try one..

This is very interesting, I watched a few years back about doing this with regular paper but the process of getting the paper wet but not too wet and all the rubbing involved to separate the paper made me loose interest in a project I've been wanting to try.. I've got a inkjet printer but I'm going to give this a try.. Thank you Ray for posting this..

I just did a quick search as I was sure I read someone before that it'd work.. I just quick skim read this but it might tell you what you need to know if you look through it.. When I put mine on I thought it'd probably fit most any saw.. https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7329719

I do not know if it'd fit or not..

This is the one I bought back in 2014.. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-14-1-HP-Deluxe-Bandsaw-35th-Anniversary-Edition/G0555LA35 Then I got this stuff along with it.. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Riser-Block-Kit-for-G0555LX-G0555LA35/T25555 https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Resaw-Fence-Attachment-for-14-Bandsaws/H7584 https://www.grizzly.com/products/Shop-Fox-Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/D2057A Been a real good saw.. I used it quite a lot for resawing until I got burnt out resawing, LOL I had the power line guys here that took out several cherry trees.. and most my lumber for a few years came from that.. but there was a lot of trees and I wasn't cutting the chunks up fast enough so a lot of it went to fire wood too.. If I could have had away to get full logs to my brothers mill I'd have done that.. But couldn't find any reasonable way to do that at the time.. I would probably do more resawing but I also use it to make bandsaw boxes.. and the last couple years it's been set up for that with 1/8" blade.. plus use it to rip 2" strips for clock bases. If I had another bandsaw set up to do resawing.. I'd probably do more of it.. But as I said also.. it does take a lot of time to run enough lumber through and also keep up with orders.. and I also do not use all that much "thin" stock like I used to.. I now make most all the ornaments out of 1/8 BB ply. and most clocks and puzzles that I make are 5/8 - 3/4"