kmmcrafts

Sorry, I got side tracked with packing orders and forgot. They sure are close in size and may or may not work. Lol as close as they are you could almost sand them enough to make it work. But really another important thing would be the O-ring size. I’d almost bet they’ll work.

I'm with Ray, Life is too short to spend it re-sawing and milling lumber, LOL That said.. I get much of my wood rough cut right from my brother or my uncle ( both own sawmill business's ) so most everything I get free but with the cost of having to sticker dry it.. then re-saw it.. then plane it to my final size.. I did a lot of re-sawing with my tiny 9" ryobi bandsaw.. yeah that's right..and it only had a cutting height of about 5".. so I made a lot of ornaments with the material I got for free but spent hours milling. I thought I needed a much bigger bandsaw for re-sawing.. I didn't have a crap ton of money back in 2014 when I decided on the Grizzly anniversary edition 14" with added riser block.. It does a great job doing what I wanted it to do... however... all the free lumber in the world thrown my way that i could use.. I just don't have the TIME to fool with it.. Hobbyist yes or when I was first getting into business and not busy like these days.. a one man operation that i run doesn't allow me the time to use free lumber.. my point is.. free isn't always free.. and as Ray pointed out.. lots of money spent on machines could be lots of lumber to burn through on a scroll saw.. NOW.. some of you guys do larger projects and that free lumber is a great thing.. but you cannot scroll saw enough hours in a year to burn through that money that the equipment to do it all would cost.. probably not in 5 years.. so I think you need to ask yourself how bad you really want to use this free cutoffs.. how much time do you want to spend milling lumber vrs. scroll sawing.. New toys are great and if you just want to spend the money... have the shop space then all the power to you.. I once thought I was going to make a killing on free wood and scrolling all my items to sell from free wood.. planer knives don't last forever nor do the "GOOD" resaw blades for the bandsaw.. Didn't take me long to see that buying my lumber close to the size I need is a bunch more profitable.. You mention having a 14" Delta bandsaw.. do you use it to re-saw now? Why do you need a bigger bandsaw? one set up to do one thing and another set up strictly for resawing? Why not add a riser block to the Delta? I'm just asking.. No need to answer these questions.. Things to ask yourself I suppose..

I knew they've been mentioned many times.. I did a quick search for "Pike" on the general forum section and found a few topics about them.. I was certain Randy ( @hotshot ) used this brand.. and this topic seemed to have quite a lot of discussion about them so here is some reading..

I've seen them mentioned several times over the years.. I've never tried them myself.. not even sure where to get them.. I've seen them on some site in the past but don't recall where that was..

Barry, have you tried the Hegner site in the UK? Here is a link. https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/pages/frontpage Have you only send emails or have you tried to call them as well? I see they have phone numbers listed. You only need the very small swivel inserts with the O-ring?? Do you have a dial caliper to be able to measure the swivel? I have a few of the swivels new from Seyco.. I try to keep wear parts on hand.. I'd have to look but I think they come as a set ( ie you get a swivel and a set screw for the opposite side ).. They probably are the same size but I might be able to get you some measurements from my new ones if you have a way to measure as well.. I thought Hawk was only the hard ones to get through to.. This virus deal has a lot of business's either shut down or only running limited staff and hours.. My opinion is if they are having to be shut down or slower response times etc.. they should make a statement on the websites.. I had some issues last couple weeks with one company I ordered from... Their site didn't mention they was running with no helpers.. but they did mention shipping companies are running slow.. but it took them 3 weeks just to get my order in the mail..then with the slow shippers 4 days in the mail which should normally be 2 days.. (same state order..LOL) which made my order late to my customer.. I gave a full refund to the customer because it was a gift for her husbands birthday that showed up a couple days late.. She said it was okay but I refunded anyway.. even though it was out of my control anyway.. she had a special request order and the parts are not something I normally sell or stock and she knew I had to order them.. Anyway, If I was you I'd look into the link above that I posted as they are based in the UK.. I could send you the swivels I have but I don't think it'd be too far off from your $30 whole assembly by the time I pay shipping and the cost of the swivels.. Last time I sent a 2oz package to the UK it cost me $12 and that has been a while ago.. That was just cheap slow mail too..But if you want to chance that they're the same I'll send you one set of mine if you can't get through to someone.. They cost me about $10 by the time I paid shipping from Seyco so $22 USA funds if you want a set from me.. I don't sell parts.. but if you need to get back up and running I'd help you out that way if needed.. Like I said.. $8 more and you'd have a whole new clamp, LOL Another thought... maybe look for a dealer for the Excalibur, King.. There is another brand that I think sells to the UK but cannot think of it right now.. they all use the swivel I think.. DeWalt too.. somebody gotta be local source for you.. Hope something I've mentioned can help you get your needed parts..

Hadn't thought about that.. but now that you mention it I'm also wondering about the wire wheels.. When running them on the car parts many times the wires will come loose and stick in my shirt or coat.. Maybe the cheap ones I buy and also on the cars I use the air drill which spins much faster than my cordless.. maybe I'm running them faster than recommended too.. Maybe I should just invest in a nylon type wheel.. or just wash the boards with a stiff brush, LOL I for sure use older planer knives when running rough lumber through.. and typically just run them all through just enough to smooth the board.. then I switch to the new knives... to finish up.. This is why I bring this topic up right now.. my knives need to be changed.. have a new set.. but would like to run a bunch of this free rough sawn lumber through before swapping the knives.. Got about 200bft each of Cherry, Walnut, and Maple to run through.. Once run through I'll stack it up in the loft rafters..

I used to buy mine from Lesley's patterns http://www.scrollsawbladespatterns.com/index.htm But over the years their service had dropped.. Always got my order but slower than a snail.. Always enjoyed dealing with them as they took Paypal and at that time I wasn't taking credit card payments for my online sales so there was always funds in my PayPal account.. Also they sell all three ( FD, Olsen, and Pegas ) of my blade brands and it was always nice to order from one place... just worked out well.. Loved dealing with sloans too and sure will miss their wonderful service.. I just placed an order with wooden teddy bear on Sunday and they sent me a tracking number Monday.. supposed to be here today.. so I think they may be the next go to place for Olsen & FD blades.. https://woodenteddybear.com/collections/olson-scroll-saw-blades

Why didn't I think of that.. I have those and use them for a lot of different things in the automotive work.. Never thought to use that on wood, LOL.. I'm going to give this a try before buying a sander

Never seen them in person.. but they use to have them on TV.. Not sure what channel they was on now.. but some channel we used to watch a lot and when I got a new dish I don't think it's in the new package.. seems like maybe RFDTV?? I don't know maybe we still get the channel, Hahaha I don't watch TV and don't even know how to work the thing since the days of actually getting up to switch the channel.. My kids found it and we had a lot of fun watching them..

Okay I've been thinking about getting a 4 x 24 belt sander to run on rough cut lumber to knock off the dirt and grime before running through my planer.. I've got a lot of lumber that was given to me but while sitting out stickered it has collected quite a lot of dirt and grime.. I've been using my RO sander to help with this but it's just not going to go as fast as I'd like.. I think a belt sander would work much better.. actually a drum sander is what I really want but at this point out of my price range at the moment.. I could get a cheap 3 x 21 a lot cheaper.. not looking for any top of the line something but hope it'd last long enough to get me by for the remainder of this year.. maybe with some luck Santa will bring me a drum sander, LOL.. Anyway the 4 x 24 I thought would be nicer because 1 the wider path for those wider boards.. and 2 the belts would also work on my Ridgid Oscillating sander too.. Then I don't have to remember more belt sizes, LOL ... But so far the larger one cost way more money so I may settle for the smaller one.. Anyone have any thoughts on the size differences and also any experience with specific brands.. HF has the Bauer in the larger size but also on the higher end of the price I was hoping to spend.. since I've never owned or needed a belt sander I've done all these years without.. so now looking as I said.. like to spend maybe $40-50.. but I might have to bite the bullet for the higher priced ones. While on the topic of belt sanders.. ever watch the belt sander races? My son and I used to watch these all the time several years ago.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DPEliD8ucI

Might be just me.. but I like cutting at a faster pace.. I started with Olsen reverse tooth blades years ago.. not a bad blade as I think all blades have their purpose.. it's in my opinion more about the type of material and thickness than anything else.. I have no issues cutting with any blade as far as staying straight on the lines etc.. but I find that a blade that cuts too slow makes me want to push harder.. as I stated at the begging I like to cut at a faster pace.. Not because I'm in a hurry like people seem to think because I sell and I need to make x amount a day.. I'm still making my wage whether I cut fast or slow, LOL.. That gets charged to the customer.. typically a first time project takes longer.. and I typically use my time from the first project to make my wage off of.. and then the more times I cut it I find tip and tricks to speed things up.. So anyway, I started with Olsen blades and then heard about FD blades.. before the UR blades came out they had the two way cut.. I liked those because they was a faster cutting blade.. The Pegas tend to be a bit more aggressive so I like those.. There are certain projects where I am still more comfortable using a Olsen or FD UR blade.. I still keep them all on hand.. Been a time or two where I ordered blades a little late and had to run with FD or Olsen until I got my batch of Pegas in.. To me.. they all have their uses.. cutting really thin stock.. sometimes I'll switch to a FD or Olsen as they aren't quite as aggressive. which falls into the tooth per inch category.. it makes a difference for certain projects and each brands blades size isn't the same tooth count or kerf size etc..Pegas kerf tends to be on a smaller scale than the other brands..

The Jim Dandy lift is the only one I would consider buying.. I had it before the others came out.. While the others do the job too and many people like them I suppose.. they are not of a design that I care for personally.. You could probably make one fairly cheap if you already have some of the stuff laying around.. but honestly one could spend a lot of time fussing with something and trips to the hardware to get things needed.. I feel it's really reasonable priced at $30 and no fuss installation.. Maybe just me because I live in the boonies and a special trip to the hardware would cost me a couple bucks in fuel.. yes even at today's low prices. LOL

You done a beautiful job with cutting and wood choices!!! I sometimes topcoat with polyurethane after the Danish oil.. Depends on the project and what look I'm after.. For bowls and much of the kitchen type things I actually like Watco Butcher Block oil.. I'm not certain what's in it but it gives a clear coat looking finish and it's quite water resistant.. If you wash the bowl the water beads up like a heavy wax was applied.. I don't sell cutting boards but I have made some and use it on those.. it last a good year before needing re coated.. and if it weren't for the knife marks I'd say it'd never need re coated.. It's good stuff.. I use a soft cloth to apply it.. If I get a ot of knife marks in it I sometimes will use the mineral oil & beeswax mix to help along nearing the time I need to re coat with the Butcher Block oil.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/WATCO-Clear-Butcher-Block-Oil-Actual-Net-Contents-16-fl-oz/3153369?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-219-_-interiorstains-_-3153369-_-0&store_code=1110&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QMkI4f2wm5Xjm6tUobnquAi24sE_m2nSn9VkHLp49C-jLWwdt1hK5saAghOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I

Looks like fun, That first start is always exciting after doing a build..

Thank you Marg, It did take a little longer to cut.. but not extremely longer.. I knew something was off.. but didn't even consider the blade.. I thought it was just me as I haven't used that saw in quite a long time and they do cut very different from the Hawk that I normally use.. then the dust sticking to the pattern I just blamed it onto the new shipping label papers that I printed the pattern on.. but I was struggling a bit to stay with the lines and normally I don't have such struggles with that..again just thought it was being on the more aggressive saw. It really didn't come out too bad.. I may start using both ends of the blade to save on blades

I do agree with you, we are supposed to be mandated to wear mask in public but not many are actually doing it.. Protesters packed like sardines inside the capital the other day.. no mask etc.. Many say it's just the flu but I have many family members / friends etc. work in health care.. It's not just the flu, LOL.. No it's not killing everyone.. some with pre-existing health issues have recovered and some seemingly healthy people have died.. so I don't think it's something anyone should take lightly.. young healthy or old with health conditions.. I wouldn't wish it on anyone.

I was getting a lot of sawdust on top but I also have a fan with filter that sucks a lot of dust away.. but some was sticking to the paper pattern.. I thought it was the new brand of sticky papers I just purchased and was my first use of them so I didn't think a lot of that..

I hadn’t cut on the EX21 in quite a while so thought I’d cut a puzzle out on it. I have blade storage tubes set up at each saw. When I unravel the dozen I take note of how I put the remaining 11 blades in the tube so when I need the next blade I know what end is top when removing the rest of the blades. So what I really learned was that this puzzle cuts a lot harder with the blade installed upside down. I didn’t figure out that it was upside down until I was done cutting It’s not the easiest puzzle to cut with all that fur on the bottom of the dog, but the blade in the right way sure made the next puzzle cut much easier. So if anyone wants a challenge you should try cutting one of these puzzles with the blade upside down. my next challenge is going to be cutting with the blade upside down and backwards. Travis should have these kind of challenging topics .

As you can see there are a million ways to achieve the same outcome.. Scott mentioned a FD-UR.. Nice blades and is still my go to blade for certain things.. but wouldn't be my choice for some thin stock like this because the reverse teeth can and will grab.. for very fragile cuts I don't even recommend a reverse tooth blade.. A number 1 blade might be a better choice.. I ran out of the little blades years ago and now I just do with what I have. but he is right with a smaller blade maybe more helpful.. Again, everyone has different methods to achieve the same results.. If having to use a sacrificial piece then so be it... just calculate the cost in your prices if selling your work.. there really is no real wrong way to achieve the end result..

Yes I agree, some hardwoods aren't cheap and I totally understand.. It takes a lot of cutting to get comfortable and learn the tricks.. and most folks do not ever get to a point that they can cut without the sacrificial piece.. Mostly because they get to comfy by making scrap without "Trying" to learn to do it without making scrap, If that makes any sense.. In other words most find that comfy spot of just throwing a scrap piece on the back and call it good rather than learning to control just one piece because it's easier to use a scrap than to learn the other way.. When you find some cheap thin material it's a great thing to learn.. You may make a lot of scrap learning but in the end it might be less scrap than you make in a lifetime of using sacrificial pieces all the time..

I cut 1/8 from time to time without a scrap sacrificial.. actually cut thin stock quite often around the holidays doing personalized ornaments.. I also use the #3 MG blades.. The hardest for any scroll sawer to learn is feeding the wood to the blade control.. many people will adjust a saws speed to help them control.. or they'll cut easy to cut areas until a blade starts to dull a bit before doing some delicate works that might go too fast for them with a new blade etc.. I learned to saw on a old two speed saw that low speed didn't work, LOL.. I now like to run my saws speed nearly full speed and I never adjust the speed unless I'm cutting metal or plastic.. My point is.. the saw isn't cutting too fast.. it's you feeding the wood to the blade too fast for you to control.. I think a faster blade speed gives a smoother cut edge and back side of the wood than a slow speed.. Everyone has their way of cutting.. and if you have to use a sacrificial piece or slow the blade down etc.. that's okay.. whatever gets you to a final piece and puts a smile on you is really all that matters..

I'd take it back and tell them it appears your mineral spirits was filled with the Covid-19

Hmm, Just curious where do you buy blades local that are any good? maybe I should ask... what brand blades do you buy local? I have the 14" grizzly.. and before that I had a cheap 9" Ryobi and with the Ryobi I couldn't find a blade worth buying locally.. Someone on a woodworkers forum somewhere turned be onto Timberwolf blades.. I had to custom order them but it was certainly worth it and then some, LOL When I got my grizzly set up the blade it come with was junk as well.. I placed an order for several types and widths of the Timberwolf blades but in the meantime I bought a couple Olsen brand blades at a local supplier.. I wasn't impressed with them either.. and I can't seem to find any "Good" blades locally.. I don't mind ordering... I get more frustrated in spending money on junk blades.. The Timberwolf blades I have been getting at PS Woods

Glad you're caught up.. Looks like that must have taken at least a couple days to cut I wish I could get caught up.. way busier than usual.. I suspect because all the people sitting at home doing nothing has provoked them to do some online shopping, LOL I've been meaning to compile that list of patterns I'd like to order from you.. every time I think okay after this order is complete I'll look at the list.. wham more orders come in..

I just use tape, probably not as fast as a pin nailer.. if the pin nail gun was always hooked up etc.. but I think it's probably faster than the pin nail gun if I need to dig it out and hook it up etc.. When I say tape.. I mean like packing tape.. I just tape around the edges of the stack.. best if all blanks are cut to the same size.. Years ago I used wood screws and a cordless drill with a driver bit.. You could run the screw in until it broke through the bottom and then back it out a little so you're not scratching the table.. That was back when I always used 1/4" thick blanks. but now I use 1/8 and the screws don't hold all that great on the bottom piece..