kmmcrafts

@octoolguy I'm not too sure on the sanders as I haven't kept an eye on them all that much.. back when I was looking for my miter saw I had one picked out that I liked and just checked in everyday. took a few weeks before they had some in stock.. The Bosch I have now I got on sale locally from Menards.. about 4 or so years ago..

It's not a bad sander Ray for the money.. You got a great deal when you bought yours.. I had a coupon but it was still $33.. for $7 more I could buy the refurb Bosh.. that's all I'm sayin.. I don't hate the sander.. and would probably love it for sanding larger work pieces and for shorter periods of time.. I try to keep in mind that most everyone here are hobbyist and not production like me.. I believe I said that in my post that its not bad for the hobbyist or the occasional user.. It does work well enough.. and maybe with time I could build some muscle in my arm to use it for a hour at a time like I normally do.. Sanding those little ornaments.. I get tired with my Bosh as well.. 60 ornaments is about a half a batch from my normal.. The process is holding the sander up off the table and in the air the majority of time.. You sand one side lift up flip the ornament to the other side and sand it.. pile it in the sanded stack and grab another unsanded one.. so yeah I'm holding the thing up a lot.. I only do a quick sanding as I pre-sand my blanks.. That is time consuming too because I stack cut 4-6 at a time but with the blanks I start sanding with 100Grit then 150, 220, 320.. after the ornaments are cut I just hit them with the 320 again.. Not uncommon for me to run that sander 1+ hour a day this time of year.. I don't consider a Bosh "really high end " Nor do I consider a DeWalt high end either.. LOL My point is if you're going to pay the HF regular price.. you might be better off buying a different brand..

Thanks for the heads up on that.. Yeah I'm thinking a new one this time round because the dust canister has a crack in mine and also when i changed out the brushes it just really hasn't been right.. though it lasted quite awhile.. I think I may retire the one I have and just buy a new one.. Yeah, I've bought a lot of Refurbish from those guys.

Yeah.. that's what I was thinking..

Okay, so my Bosh sander has been loosing power again.. (gets a lot of use) .. last time this happen it needed new brushes in the motor.. and when taking it apart I damaged a seal that sealed up the two half's and the dust port wasn't working as good due to the seal I suspect.. anyway Harbor Freight Bauer brand I had a coupon for and others here had posted it was a decent sander.. Just came in from sanding about 60 ornaments.. while I don't consider this sander piece of junk but I'm not giving it a big praise either.. Probably not a bad sander for the occasional user.. I use these sanders a lot.. comfort level for me was the thing was heavier and more awkward to hold.. much more vibration in the hands / arms from use.. Sanding 60 ornaments takes me a good 20-30 minutes and when done my arm wanted to fall off .. The dust collection thing works a little worst than my Bosh with the bad seal.. Obviously not horrible but certainly could be both better or worst.. The power of the thing is decent at the higher end of the VS dial.. but it's a little on the fast side for doing delicate work and turning the thing down much seems to have lost it's ump.. It's usable and in a pinch I'll keep it around... but defiantly will be fixing the Bosh again.. or getting a new one.. The sanding pad was more firm than what my Bosh has.. I might try swapping out the pad and see how it works that way.. HF also has a new brand of sanding disc.. ADMIRAL brand.. For about the same money you can get Norton made stuff from Menards.. The ADMIRAL brand stuff is a thicker paper maybe and or the glue used to make it reminds me more of grinding disc rather than sandpaper.. The stuff seemed to work well on BBply.. but when sanding solid wood ( Cherry ) it wanted to clog up a bit.. but after sanding the cherry and going back to the BBply it seemed to clean itself out.. did seem to be able to do a lot of sanding with the same disc.. I'll use what i have a little more and maybe have a better opinion on it later on with more use.. My thinking with what little I've used this stuff.. I'll buy my usual Norton stuff from Menards.. Anyway just my take on the sander.. coming from a name brand little higher end sander to this.. I guess the value is there for some hobbyist.. But Honestly if one waits it out.. The Bosh sander come up on sale quite often and is pretty price compatible to that of the Bauer at the regular price.. I bought my Bosh 4-5 years ago on sale for $43 and shopping online some are priced at that now I believe.. Coming from that piece of crap Chicago tool sander that HF also sells.. This thing is a dream compared to it, LOL

My guess is Ray..cost.. today's saw clamps are a very simple design with virtually no moving parts.. These Delta clamps wasn't liked by everyone and lots of people had issues with them breaking... mainly as was stated before.. not having them adjusted properly the lever handle would bend and or break.. They are a nice clamping system that work well for some and not so well for others.. Today's clamps with just a thumb screw is something the engineers don't have to invent or re-invent.. simple to just drill and tap a hole for a thumb screw that most everyone understands how to use.. is just my opinion why.. I really like the upper clamp of the new Jet saws.. I've played around with this clamp almost every time I go to the local lumber store to get more plywood as they have many tools on the showroom floor.. That said I haven't used it in real life cutting so maybe it's not all that it looks like to me.. Many folks do not like the lower barrel clamp part of it.. and some say the reverse teeth of the blades are set up too low.. I really question this myself because the design of the barrel has a hole going all the way through so there is no stop or bottom out for the blade... these barrels are basically the same thing as the Hawks barrel clamps that many do not like as well.. but Hawk has a bottom out on the clamp.. I 'm always wondering if these people actually have the saws set up and tuned correctly. buying the Hawk clamps so the blade has a positive stop would be a plus... I already have plenty of those clamps with my old Hawk, LOL

I was just browsing around the web.. and run across this Jet scroll saw.. I did very little investigating but if they're really this much I'll take two.. LOL.. For curiosity sake I added one to the shopping cart thinking shipping is $700 or something.. but it tells me shipping is $5.99.. I'm not sure whether to believe it or not.. last year I bought a printer than was real cheap but normally a high dollar printer to specifically print shipping labels.. Turned out to be a bogus company.. that took my money.. through a long round about way my bank was able to get my funds back to my account.. https://www.emkmall.com/products/18-white-saw--jet-scroll-benchtop--jwss-18b--727300b?zenid=6kg4maofjrjlp3gj8s139q3al3

Stoney, I agree.. I have a old Delta saw that has this style clamp and also had a Delta SS350LS that had these on it.. very nice setup.. too bad they are not being made and used on many saws these days..

How long was that taped up.. or how old is the tape.. as that tape ages.. it gets harder to pull it up as if it gets stickier.. I've not had that happen that badly except one time when i left the project half done for about 2 years and then finished it up.. In this case.. I now will set the project out in the direct sun for about 30 minutes.. then it will peel off more normal.. you almost always get a very small amount of these splinters but not nearly that bad.. Can also use a hairdryer or heat gun to soften up the tapes glue.. Also as mentioned, I pre-sand the wood down to around 220 - 320 grit.. and clean off any sanding dust.. I use shelf liner now days instead of blue tape.. but keep blue tape on hand in case it's a real small project that would only require a couple strips of 2" wide tape..

Looks pretty darn good to me.. I've done this a couple times.. pretty much on scrap too, LOL.. Keep saying I'm going to do more of it one day.. but then orders come and gets me sidetracked.. then I forget what I had started etc.. LOL Another thing I want to try at is Intarsia .. Someday I'll do it..

I use clear shelf liner instead of painters tape.. Walmart has it for around $6 a roll.. I print my patterns on full sheet shipping labels and stick that to the shelf liner.. Works real well for me.. no messy spray glues unless I'm doing a project that requires more than one sheet of paper.. Not sure why this says around $15 because I was just at my local Walmart and it was $5.98 I think.. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Duck-Brand-1115496-Peel-N-Stick-Laminate-Adhesive-Shelf-Liner-12-x-36-ft-Clear/217108429 Since I use shipping labels for printing out the labels for mailing my products.. I buy these in large quantity so they're quite a lot cheaper than going to your local office store and buying 10-20 sheets.. I buy this about once a year.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Yes I used WD-40 but it's not really a lubricant and I don't like using it for that as it is very corrosive.. Since I was out of PB Blasters Garage Door Lube I used the WD-40.. The Garage Door stuff is awesome.. It's a dry lube and I think it's silicone with Teflon added.. awesome stuff.. that's why it's gone.. I went crazy using that stuff on everything.. Throttle / Choke cables on my mower.. wheels on my push mower.. pushed so much easier LOL.. Bike chains and all kinds of stuff, LOL

Dang I used to go there for patterns all the time.. I was thinking the other day about getting a pattern of his but had not made it there yet.. I wonder if we message him we can get an invite..

WOW! Great deal.. We have a Ollies here but I've only been in the store about 3 times since they opened up 3-4 years ago..Maybe I need to check there more often..lol

That was my fathers first saw.. He wore the thing out and rebuilt it once.. then the next time he wanted to upgrade to the variable speed version.. I think 40-540? model.. Anyway the 40-560 Type 2 is the first saw I ran.. as my father gave it to me to try.. I rebuilt the thing but didn't use it too much after that. Still have it.. Was with dad the day he bought it..

I know there are a few folks using this set up.. As time passed using mine I've noticed that it's not sliding across the wood blanks as easy as it once did.. and I've been having to lift it to the next spot.. If i tried to slide i to the next spot it's make the whole board slide.. Today while using the Johnson's paste wax on my Excalibur's table I thought I'd wax the bottom plate of that plunge router.. WOW! that thing just glides across now... Also the two post on each side where the mechanism slides in the up / down... either wax or spray a little spray lube on those makes it plunge easy too..

I might be one of the few that have used the dust port and actually like it other than the noise of the shop vac.. It does suck the board down especially when you first start cutting ( fretwork ) but once you get a few holes cutout so some air can flow it gets better.. I will say also.. It helps a whole lot to keep the saw table waxed real well.. doing that regularly makes it much easier.. I guess I thought all the Excalibur's came with a foot switch? If not.. Harbor Freight has them fairly cheap and I used one from them for 12 years on my Dewalt without issues... I couldn't be without a foot switch.. I don't know how I did it before I got one.. LOL

There is more difference than just the tilting head.. The King, Ex etc saws you can also loosen the bolts on the motor and spin the motor to give the saw a less or more aggressive cut.. most folks turn it to a less aggressive which makes those sharp turns easier to do.. DeWalts are pretty aggressive saws.. great for cutting thicker stock.. I've had a DeWalt that I used for 12 years before getting the Hawks and the EX.. DeWalt is a good saw but the EX, King type saws are really nice with the fact you can tune the aggressiveness and the tilting head rather than the table is a plus.. I'd go with the King / EX-16 before a DeWalt especially considering the space for traveling etc.. but even without dealing with the space.. the saws features out weigh the throat size for me.. as I said.. not many projects require that large of saw.. and I could honestly do without making those things that require a larger saw.. Smaller projects are better for me due to I ship everything I sell and so makes shipping easier as well as the space required to store larger inventory pieces vrs small inventory items.. Just my 2 cents

Yes you pour Danish oil into a container and then just dip the ornaments into the oil.. let sit in there a few minutes then take out and wipe excess off.. pour leftover back into can.. I've been planning to build a drying station for the ornaments so they can drip dry.. Thinking along the lines of something similar to a cloths line with a rain gutter section to catch the drips.. Hang the ornament with some metal hooks let drip dry and the gutter catch the drips..

I guess it depends on what you plan to make and the space limitations of your shop etc.. I have two Hawk 26" saws and a 20" one then the Excalibur 21" Most things I make could be done on a 16".. there are a couple of projects that I've needed the 20".. Don't think I've ever used the full capacity of the 26" though.. but it's easier to have it if a project comes along that would one would need it for.. The thing that comes to mind that I make that'd need the 20" throat is the Guitar wall clock.. Believe this is 18" tall if I remember correctly.. I think every thing else could be done on the 16".. If the blade tubes fit into the saw base as snug as they do mine.. It'd make for easier packing maybe.. then your stuff is with your saw.. when traveling from one campground to another you always gotta pack things away... this way everything is right with the saw.. That was my thinking anyway.. But... you could just tape the blade packs to the saw too I suppose..

The quick clamp and the clamp that these old 15" saws take are different.. and this website does show they have clamps for this saw.. Not sure if they're OEM style though or not.. Copied from the website... 4. EZ Set Blade Holder System used with 15" Scroll Saws• Penn State • Grizzly • Delta • Jet • AMT • True Value • Central Machinery • Foremost • Buffalo • United • Value Craft • Powermatic • And many other imported brand scroll saws! Cost: $24.90

@JimErn I did that for years.. and while it works well and the tubes really aren't "needed".. Since I have multipal saws.. and the packages do only last so long.. It's nice to have a package / tube of your blades at each saw.. I keep between 3 and 6 doz. blades in the tubes.. when I refill a tube and use the last of them in the package.. that's when its time to place my order for more blades... knowing that I have plenty of blades between each saw in case the blades end up being back ordered etc.. It's just my preference and method that I use to help me keep track of inventory.. Back before I had the tubes.. the package was always on the other saw across the shop..

Nice work on the cutting... I might have t hire you for production work soon .. Yeah that outside cut sometimes does seem to take a while.. especially the circular ones. .. I almost always put in a brand new fresh blade with cutting that outside portion... even if the blade in the saw isn't dull yet... for one it helps speed up the cut since you're not getting half way through the cut and now the blade is getting dull.. but also a good sharp blade helps keep you from pushing too hard on a dull blade and making the blade flex and throws you off coarse.. I dip the ornaments in Danish oil as Jim mentioned.. In the cold Michigan winters where the Danish oil takes a long time to dry out.. I use my own mixture finish.. see video below I apply this with a acid brush as it has stiff bristles and you get get the wax down into the smaller cutouts .. let it set for a hour or so then heat it with a hair-drier or heat gun to melt off the excess and wide with a paper towel..

The blade chucks are very much an upgrade from the stock EX clamps.. Much more user friendly... I agree with Ray... If you're looking to buy this type of saw.. Just go with the Pegas saw.. But also be aware that these saws ( at least were ) back ordered as they sold many more than they expected to.. If I ever buy another new saw again.. That would be my choice.. second choice would probably be the seyco. If I remember correctly though you are planning to lug the saw around with you as you travel? I'v thought about buying a Excalibur EX-16 just to take along camping with us since it's smaller and wouldn't take up a large amount of space, and slightly lighter to lug around.. In this case in my experience I'd upgrade those clamps and go with the smaller saw.. The Pegas isn't much bigger but when living in tight spaces.. every little bit helps..Also recommend getting blade storage tubes as the oval slots on the base of the saw is for storage tubes to eep your blades right with you at the saw.. I had storage tubes and a holder case for them but they was too large to fit the holes in the EX base.. so I ordered these here.. fit perfect and this is so nice to have the blades right there on the saw.. I wish other saw brands would have something similar.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-16-x-150-mm-Clear-Plastic-Test-Tubes-with-Blue-Caps-6-Inch/381314545375?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

The part number you need is 40-155 blade holder assembly.. They are no longer available.. If you keep an eye out on eBay etc every now and then one pops up new old stock in the package still... I don't think this clamp is used on many other of the saws if any.. but i may be wrong.. Not too much to them.. if you had something to show a machine shop.. they;d probably be able to hook you up.. Doing a search for Delta 40-155 will bring up images of these.. Both top and bottom clamps are the same part number so I assume they're the same..