kmmcrafts

I had ordered my Pegas clamps from them too.. and they arrived really quick.. I was surprised since they are in CA that they came so quick.. I may have to give them a try with the blades..

I use a Elipse P100 half mask... I used to use a Totobobo mask that I really liked.. but the straps would rot away quite fast.. now I see they only use the ear straps.. The filters don't last too long either but it is a very light and comfortable mask.. that many times I'd forget I even had it on, LOL https://www.ebay.com/itm/GVS-Elipse-P100-Half-Mask-Respirator-Plus-1-Bonus-set-of-Filters-S-M-M-L/173275606332?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=471984967384&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I don't typically cut very large stuff either... usually 14-16" is about the largest I do and that's a rare occasion.. My issues with the table have not been the size of the table.. but more about the short distance from the blade to the front edge of the table.. I don't remember exact measurements off the top of my head right not but it's something like only 4 inch from the front edge of the table to the blade.. The Hawk has around 5.5" or 6" and the Dewalts have something like 8" Anyhow whatever the distance is.. Cutting large pieces at times when spinning the board around you may have 12" off the end of the table and into your gut.. I'm a skinny guy but I still have that issue.. not to mention you have 12" hanging off the table and only 4" on the table.. It took me a long time getting used to that..especially coming from running 10+ years on a DeWalt with so much more space.. As I said I don't do many larger stuff.. most my cutting on the EX is 10" or smaller.. anything large I typically just cut it on my Hawks.. Edit to add: The Seyco saw was advertised as having a large area in front of the blade.. I don't remember how much space it was.. but it was up there with the DeWalt or better if I remember correctly.. A fix could be to add a slip on table for the larger projects.. I don't have that "NEED" since I have two 26" Hawks and a 20" Hawk as well.. so I'm not fussing with making a table for larger projects..

Just my opinion here but a blade is going to cut the same way whether you cutting fretwork or intarsia .. NOW.. don't confuse that with the types of material you cut.. A think most people consider that fretwork is usually what I call portrait work cut from thin plywood.. many people stack cut this so in my opinion it's still like cutting hardwood other than the plywood glues dull blades two fold, LOL Now.. she may have done the test years ago before many different styles of brands of blades where available.. and ( at that time ) her blades was the best for that... whole different ball game these days with different blades.. Most all blades back in the day were stamped and had that pesky bur on the one side which made them cut on an angle.. or a few degrees off to one side.. Not so much the case with these newer blades.. JMO..

Yes I do that with the rough cut lumber i get from my brothers mill.. mostly because there is sometimes dirt etc from them being sticker-ed to dry out.. out in his dusty lumber lot.. and I've found that though you really don't see much of any dirt or anything on the lumber it sure does dull the blades quick.. so I plane the rough cut stuff with the dull blades then use sharp blades for the finish work.. Thanks for suggesting it though as it may benefit someone reading this.. I learned it the hard way by running rough cut on a set of brand new blades.. they didn't last too long, LOL

My planer has little tabs and the knives can only go in a certain way.. It has two knives.. so I wouldn't be able to move the blades for those nicks I got.. Mine are from dumb me.. the place I get my lumber staples tags on the ends to mark the lumber and price etc.. well.. I forgot to pull the staple out.. so I have two nicks in my knives.. but they are very small and I pre-sand my projects plus finish sand everything too.. so it's not an issue yet anyway.. This happen a couple years ago and when they get dull this time.. I'm putting my new ones on since I've sharpen this set about 4 times now.. My planer I've had about 8 years now I think.. maybe longer.. I bought it at a outlet mall when we was on vacation and the wife & mother in law wanted to go shopping.. I wasn't at all really interested in going but figured better than sitting at the hotel by myself.. but not much better, LOL turned out the outlet place had a tool store.. the planer is a 13" ryobi that was $100 mother in law gave every one $150 to spend at the mall.. so really the thing was free..LOL.. I've run a lot of board ft. through that thing for just being a cheapy.. Kept putting money aside for a better one but never have needed it so I spent the money I had put away on other things.. Now it'll quite for sure LOL.. but it sure owes me nothing..

I know many of you have planers and the knifes aren't all that cheap to replace.. Just thought about this as my knives was getting dull so I had to flip them over to the other side ( double sided ).. which got me thinking about how I've never seen anyone mention anything about sharpening them.. or replacing them.. so i thought I'd start a topic on my experience with this tool. I got this larger set up 4-5 years ago as a gift.. probably wouldn't buy it as something similar could be easily made.. search youtube on the topic.. Anyway, way back when.. I was replacing knives about 2 times a year.. and hose things aren't all that cheap.. Since getting this tool I've only replaced a them once and have another new set that I've had for two years now.. I've been getting about 3-4 life times out of a set of knives.. I probably could get more but I don't want to push my luck and get these worn down so much that I damage the cutter head.. these don't stick out real far from the cutter head and every sharpening makes them stick out that much less so.. Anyway, I've been very pleased with this tool.. I will say that the angle that this sharpens is different than the angle of my planer knives.. but it still works very well for me.. Just thought I'd share my thoughts.. making your own you'd be able to do whatever angle you need.. might talk some trial and error... https://www.rockler.com/deulen-planer-jointer-sharpening-jigs-sharpening-jigs

Don't think they made very many of those.. Way back in the 80's this thing probably didn't cost that much

I don't own the 16" but do have the China made EX-21.. and after taking the whole thing apart and basically going through the whole saw.. I got it working as the other Excalibur owners have experienced... they are awesome saws.. I fine tuned the motor adjustment etc and it cuts much like my Hawk does now.. The Pegas blade chucks make a world of difference for my saw.. but being mine was made in China.. and from what others have said.. I suspect my saw had a defective upper blade chuck.. so maybe the OEM clamps aren't too bad if you get a good set.. Don't matter anyhow as this saw has the Pegas clamps on it already.. that's an upgrade there.. That's an awesome deal.

I didn't look at what part of NY this is in and not knowing what part of NJ you're at.. if not too far this could be worth the drive.. This is a newer model Hawk Ultra.. looks to be in nice shape.. $80 starting bid and no bids.. Ends in about an hour though.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-Model-220VS-Scroll-Saw/264495758884?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Yeah the Delta is a decent saw.. and I see them all the time for $250-300.. Refurbished at $250 and many times brand new on sale at Home Depot or Amazon etc.. for 299.99 Not a bad price and their much like the DeWalt.. Quite a step up from anything else you're going to find in that price range for a new or newer saw... If you wait it out some though deals can be had on good used saws.. My first Hawk 220VS from Craigslist was a $100..I did put a lot of money into it.. but 95% of it was optional things like the adjustable air blower hose and extra blade holders etc etc..Only thing it "really" needed was the front tension cam as the one was worn out.. I upgraded so paid a little extra $50 for the new style one that's adjustable.. Too bad you're not close to Michigan.. I'd consider making a deal on that one..as I rarely use it since I got the other two bigger Hawks and the Excalibur https://www.ebay.com/p/2254908595?iid=303308009023 The Excalibur that is on Craigslist linked above is a pretty awesome deal too if you can come up with a few extra $$.. Heck he may even come down on price or do some trading..

WOW!! That is a beautiful well done sign...

Yes they do.. but it's all past issues that we already have purchased once in magazine form.. But that is a start I guess...

Run across my FB page the other night and sparked my interest so I looked up the model number can't find much info on it since I can't read Chinese LOL Looks pretty heavy duty.. http://kinkda.worldinmfg.com/productimage/mj442-scroll-saw-drawloom-saw-machine-woodworking-saw-713310.html

Price is pretty darn close to the same when you buy the Hepa filter for the Fein that comes standard on the Festool.. Festool is also the only one 'Hepa certified ".. The question is.. is the Hepa filteration really needed.. Guess that really depends on how clean you want / need the air in your shop.. My standard shop vac with a Hepa filter does a decent job.. while not perfect it's a lot better than nothing at all.. But the noise is terrible, LOL.. I'm also quite torn between those too vac.. but as I've said.. Festool dealer not far away.. and it seems like the better system with the low speed.. but the price is also steep..

What makes your decision for choosing the Fein over Festool and some of the others? I'm just curious as I'm torn between the Fein and Festool.. There are also many other top of the line quiet machines out there that I never heard of before.. I found it last year doing searches on vacuums etc.. and if I remember correctly I ended up on some drywallers / construction working forum.. they talked about the Fein like it didn't hold up well and the Festool wasn't far behind.. They did say the older Feins where nice units.. but the newer models they claimed to be a waist of money.. Believe they mentioned the older ones having a two speed setting.. the newer ones are single speed.. Festool is a two speed or variable? I wish I had bookmarked that site.. because they talked brands I never heard of.. and I did look up some of those brands and prices were comparable.. Anyway, I'm just wondering why you sway toward the Fein.. Meanwhile I'm trying to find some of those other brands.. andat the moment I'm leaning toward the Festool for two reasons.. one being I have a dealer about 30 mile away.. the other is I like that it has the two speed or variable whatever it was.. Rolf has one ad claims he runs his on the lowest setting for the scroll saw and it works great for him on low.. also quieter on low..

Make sure the blade isn't upside down too.. Don't ask how I know that one..

Welcome to the scroll saw village.. Just my opinion.. I'd watch for a good used higher end saw if my budget was $200.. Not much out there for good quality saws in that price range.. but many locations have good used higher end saws.. just watch craigslist and FB marketplace for scroll saws.. Ebay as well.. second hand stores etc.. Not sure what the price of this one will end up at but might be worth keeping an eye on it.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-20-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-40-694/362778850512?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

That's a very nice set-up.. I gotta do this with my saws.. The Excalibur has a dust port.... but most do not like it because it sucks through the bottom of the table and the vac suck the board down too which makes it a little harder to move the board.. I actually like it ( as long as I keep my table waxed good I don't have much issues at all )

I originally had a plastic tube storage rack with tubes that I bought from maybe sloans? Anyway it has worked great for me over the last 15 years.. When I got the Excalibur with the storage tube slots in the base the tubes I had was too big in diameter to fit the slots.. So I ordered these tubes and they fit snug but perfectly. kinda wish I had bought more of them as they are actually better quality tubes that what came with my storage system I bought years ago.. heavier plastic.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-16-x-150-mm-Clear-Plastic-Test-Tubes-with-Blue-Caps-6-Inch/381314545375?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Anyway as for organization.. I thought it was quite simple to keep track if I bundled them together.. Right side is Pegas MG.. Left side is FD-UR.. I put them in order smaller blades to the front and larger to the back.. since #3 and 5's are my more used blades #3 is the first slot then 5.. the back most slots are my less used blades ( spirals ).. After having these set up right on the saw.. I do not like the storage station thing I bought years ago.. but I do still use it since the Hawks do not have any storage slots.. Getting to like that Excalibur a whole lot these days now that I actually have it running as it should.. I have a cheap dymo label writer machine that I made stickers for the blade types and sizes to stick to the storage tubes.. but my old storage unit I just rolled up the labels that came with the blades and stuck them down into the tubes in a way that the size info was visible..

What you say? Can't hear you.. Vacuum been running all day in the shop.. I don't seem to hear the sucking sound with the larger dust port that the Excalibur has.. or maybe my vac is just too loud and drowns the noise out..

By turning the motor you change the position of the link rods that connect to the front portion of the saw clamps end.. The motor shaft where it connects to the crankshaft is off center so that's what creates the push / pull movement of those link arms.. by turning the motor you change where that push/pull on those link arms.. so you're able to line the link arms up parallel to one another at the front end of the saw.. which makes a straighter up / down on the blade.. Not sure that make sense at all to anyone.. but I sure understand it myself, LOL With the short arms at the front of the saw.. you'll always have some forward / back movement or rocking motion.. but you can tune the saw to make that motion to be very little or a whole lot.. depending upon your cutting style and preferences..

I think this info is in the manual but to add to what Ray and Jim said.. Your very first step should be to make sure the upper arm is parallel with the saw table.. I found it hard to measure with a tape measure so I used some wood blocks I cut.. actually some scraps, LOL.. I place the block under the arm and slide them down the length of the upper arm and adjust the rear knob until I have the arm parallel.. Then proceed as Ray mentioned.. Oh, a flat blade screw driver should work to turn the shaft on the motor.. at least my saw has a notch for this purpose.. I do it that way to get it close.. but I also have just turn the saw on with the speed at the lowest setting.... If I remember correctly it seems like the arm is right about 2-3/4 inch above the table so some blocks around that size to put under the arm is about what you'll need.. On my saw I had to remove all the bolts that hold the motor and spin it to the next set of slots.. then it's spun all the way to the max again before it got to the point it was as close to straight up / down motion as it could get.. I even took them out again and spun to the next yet set but that made it go back to very aggressive again.. so I moved it back.. The least amount of movement in the blade the easier it is to make nice crisp sharp turns etc.. but it will also slow down your cuts on the straight cuts too.. BTW, once that upper arm is parallel.. you should never need to mess with that knob at the back of the saw again.. However.. some saws will move that knob on their own over time.. If you do not have a mark on the knob ( some saws had a white line on the knob) you might want to reference the approximation of where that mark is located so if it does move you have an idea of where it should be.. My saw didn't have a mark on the knob.. I used a paint marker and made one.. also made a dot on the upper arm to line up the line I made.. Tape works too for marking if you don't have a paint marker..

Something else to keep in mind is the micron of dust particles... I did a lot of homework last year but ran out of time before the end of the year for my tax deductions so I never bought one.. Anyway.. The Fein being much cheaper because it's not Hepa rated unless you spend another $100+ for the hepa filter.. Then you're comparable to the Festool which is... I don't know anything about the other Vacs you mentioned.. Nor the dust collector.. I do know "most" dust collectors with the bag only filter down to around 10 micron unless you "again" spend some more money for a higher end bag or the filter canisters.. I have the big dust collector from Harbor Freight and while it's great for getting the bigger chips from the planner it also will blow that fine dust right through the bag.. runs fairly quiet. Now the debate is.. How much filtration do we need? My noisy shop vac runs at 93 dB ( I have an app for sound level on my phone.. not sure how accurate it is but it works to measure sound levels between my machines..) and if you aim the exhaust through some light in the background you can see the fine dust blowing out the back.. Does it pick up the dust better than not using anything and sweeping the stuff up when done sawing... Yes... but there is fine dust everywhere in the shop after it settles the next morning.. So with all that said first consider how good a dust collection you're looking for too.. and these do not clean up the air so you can do without a dust mask.. I'm not saying that the regular old shop vac doesn't work.. or help.. as I'm using mine until I can get the Festool that I want.. My decision on a Festool over the Fein isn't anything to do with the Hepa filter or the quality of the machines etc.. it's because I have a local dealer and service center.. should I need that.. So yes most all the vacs are probably better than nothing.. and most any are probably perfect for the hobbyist.. I'm just looking for more filtration and quiet at the same time and as business grows, tools fail etc.. I'm replacing lower end tools to higher end stuff.. Thanks for the suggestions of other vacs and the noise levels.. I'm sure that'll sure help out in someone looking for a quieter vac

Okay so I lied.. Not a Jam nut it's a lock nut... The rectangle shape I circled #63 fits into the back of the saw where I also circled.. that piece ( 63 ) is threaded and if I remember correctly is threaded on the larger portion of the shaft..( My brains not working tonight guess I'm tired LOL ) anyway it seems like the lock nut only was to screw down onto the shaft a certain distance. I just remember after taking this apart I had a bit of trouble with getting enough thread to adjust that upper arm.. since I'm tired maybe someone else will be able to make sense of parts view. If you take off the plastic piece on the top of the upper arm you can look back in thee and see that lock nut and the lower portion of that mechanism.. I do remember one thing very well.. Once you unscrew that lock nut all the way.. there is a washer on there too.. that can be very easily dropped down inside the saw.. and also.. if you unscrew it all he way off... It's not very fun trying to reach back there to get the washer on and the nut on too.. I ended up putting enough grease or maybe it was a drop of glue.. to hold the washer onto the lock nut, LOL.. You will need a pair of long needle nose pliers to hold the nut/washer combo to get it started on the threads. then you can switch to a open end wrench, LOL