kmmcrafts

I think I need to invest into a treadle scroll saw after reading all this.. when the power goes out here.. man it's sure quiet.. and seems like nothing to do..

Beautiful work!!! and welcome to the Village.. I believe Randy uses the Excalibur 16" saw.. I'd stay away from the "NEW" excalibur 21" saw.. and go with a King if you're going to go with that type saw.. Reason being is the NEW excalibur (EX-21 model) is now a China made saw and they have some pretty bad reviews.. I have one as well and had a fair amount of problems with it for only light use that I've used it for.. The King brand is the same as the "OLD" higher quality EX-21 Excalibur.. I personally do not like the idea of cutting metals on a saw of the DeWalt and Excalibur type.. because the bearings in the link arms near the blade are just a needle bearing with a sleeve in it.. so sealed type bearings.. seems like the fine metal shavings would wreak havoc to those bearings... and the little bit of grease used in those bearings would also like to trap and hold that metal in to those bearings too.. With cutting wood like most do with these saws.. the wood dust will not hurt the bearings but it will dry up the grease, LOL but.. they are a great saw.. and I suppose if you was to keep those bearings cleaned out good and re- grease often... the saw will probably perform well for many years.. I also think the Hegner saw might be a better choice.. as far as the saw quality and built to last.. no bearing right up front to have the metal shavings dropping into etc... BUT... I do think these saws are quite finicky with them real small jewelers blades... and i think this is why Randy uses the Excalibur saw.. Hawk saws are also great and they do offer a wet pump to keep the blade cool specifically for cutting metals and ceramic tiles etc... However I don't think that would be an option for you in Canada.. and they are also very finicky with them small blades...

I wouldn't say a aluminum table cheapens up a saw... it's just the table.. LOL... in some peoples opinions.. the aluminum is a upgrade because if you leave it sit overnight without a protective coat of wax it's not going to rust by the next morning / week / year... Some of the top of the line saws have aluminum tables as I understand it.. Hegners ( some of them ) have aluminum tables.. as do the Hawks.. Might depend on the grade of aluminum too... The Hawk saws I believe are almost completely out of heavy aluminum.. I say heavy because they weigh in at around 120 lbs. and mostly made of aluminum, LOL.. Imagine the weight of that thing if it were steel, LOL.. I believe the arms on the old Deltas are aluminum as well as the arms on a Hegner and many other saws.. I believe Ray is correct about the table being steel on the saw though... Even my cheep China made Excalibur has a steel table..

I agree with those above.. But my take on what those others mean when they use the term is.. The blade is so sharp it cuts too fast for them.. I may be wrong on that but by the way some of them talk about the two blades.. that's what I gather in my tiny brain.. For what it's worth.. I used FD UR blades for 12 years..r more... When I tried the Pegas MG blade.. it cut so much easier.. that I didn't need to push the wood so hard so to speak.. which is how I like to cut.. why I run my saws about full speed.. I find that getting the cutting at a pace where I'm not pushing the wood through then those sharp corners and tight turns happen much easier.. When I take a FD blade and put it in my saw.. I instantly feel like I have to shove the wood through much harder.. Not sure I make sense but to me a new FD blade cuts like a dull Pegas blade, LOL Many people will say that they run the saw speed slow because it cuts too fast when running the saw faster..When this is said.. my first thought is they push the wood harder than I do.. and maybe harder than they should.. pushing the wood too hard into the blade makes the blade flex.. and they may not be getting accurate cuts.. I watch videos of others cutting.. when they get to the edge of the wood and the blade is about to cut through... with some of these videos you can really see that blade flex.. especially when they cut through that edge and out of the piece.. I don't try to criticize them so i never say much about this.. but they aren't letting the blade do the cutting.. If you're flexing the blade while cutting you're pushing too hard... want to cut faster? turn the saw up.. switch to a different blade so you don't push the blade too hard... everyone has a different style and speed.. and that's just how it is.. but pushing too hard you need to make a change.. with either saw speed or blades configuration.. The blade speed doesn't determine how fast / slow you cut.. the person behind the saw does... by how hard they feed the wood... I personally like the speed fast.. and just sort of glide the wood lightly following the lines.. a real smooth waxed table does wonders too.. My tables are slick enough that with those back legs higher than the front to get that tilt.. the board will slide off if I let go of it.. this prevents me from piling the table up with clutter on saws I'm not using for that day,

stack cut those puzzles and you'd be able to cut down on the rolls you use, LOL.. and I thought I went through a lot of that stuff... But the majority of my stuff is stacked 4-6 pieces at a time.. LOL

What are we talking about lubing? The upper lever cam mechanism? I would only use a dry lube with Teflon in it.. PB Blaster brand garage door dry lube is what I use on almost everything.. When I had my clamps off.. I took advantage of the access of the bearings and cleaned up the old grease in the needle bearings then applied my high end synthetic grease to them.. As for the lever itself. There is nothing plastic about it in the moving parts.. they have a metal insert in the lever... For what it's worth.. I asked about replacement parts for them and was told yes they have the parts if you ever would need them.. By the way it's made.. It probably would be easier to just replace the whole thing though..That metal insert is quite small and then the little spring and the sleeve for that metal insert looks to me like a lot of very small parts that the spring would send across the shop.. It is a very well made clamp.. I wouldn't knock it just because it has a plastic lever handle.. as it's just a handle.. Take a close look at the lower part of that handle and you'll see the metal insert and all the actual wear parts down there..

This is a screen shot of the Ex 16, 21 and 30 inch saws.. Note the fuse size on the last line at the bottom... it says 3.5A NOTE This is for the Older saws before the China made ones..

My old DeWalt used to surge and spit, sputter when it was 35F or less.. even with the synthetic grease.. I always hated to run it that way.. but orders have to be made for business reasons... but after a couple minutes of running... it would warm up enough to run smooth.. Never blew a fuse.. never had to replace anything on that saw other than the one set of bearings & sleeves.. ran that saw hard production cutting for 10+ years.. I wish I had put an hour meter on that saw just to see how many ours are on it.. Based on the saws I have now with hour meters that I added to them back in march of this year.. Between all the saws I'm pushing close to 300 hours.. Some might say that's not too many hours.. for 9 months.. You'd be surprised at how much time you spend in the shop prepping for a project and then finishing a project.. also just how much time you spend with the saw off while doing a blade change etc.. I can spend 4-6 hours in the shop and barely get 2 hours on the saws clock.. I have my hour meters hooked up to the foot switch.. so I'm only clocking actual saw run times.. None of my 3 Hawks have any cold weather issues.. nor does this China made Excalibur..

Reminds me of back in the day when my buddy kept blowing fuses in his car for the radio he installed.. He got tired of replacing the fuse so he took some aluminum foil and wrapped a fuse with it and put it back in.. said that would be the last fuse he'd have to put in. learn the trick from another buddy that was having taillight issues.. Well needless to say.. it sure was the last fuse ever to be replaced in that car.. within a few hours that car was pretty much burnt to the ground,

Happy to hear you got it all sorted out...

The speed control switch ( assuming rheostat) is priced at $31.55.. The board runs $69.03 Motor is $195.00 Parts list for the excalibur so I do not know for certain these are the exact same part... Ray could tell you probably.. Here is the parts list with prices etc from his website... https://www.seyco.com/partspage/ Hope this helps you out.. Also hoping you don't need to spend a fortune to get the thing up and running,

The rheostat... I think is what they end up having to change.. whatever it is.. it's on the circuit board.. as Ray sells you a whole new board.. It's a different set up than my Hawk.. I replaced a $4 rheostat in the one saw I have... not because it was bad... but because I broke it when doing something else to the saw... Hawk wanted $150 for a whole new controller box.. I ordered a new rheostat and my son soldered it on for me...

I agree.. probably are the same one.. I've rebuilt a my DeWalt and my Excalibur.. I've had a lot of people over the years trying to tell me the EX type saws have sealed bearings.. The one I have doesn't.. exact same bearing as the DeWalt.. Sleeves are different but the bearings are the same thing.. same numbers on the bearings.. same manufacture.. Not sure how they last any longer than a DW does.. but many claim they do.. Maybe the older EX saws did have.. Mine is the newer China made one.. I've had a lot of problems with that saw.. I'll always be keeping my RBI Hawks around.. There are a lot of those old P-20's out there still running good.. You should have hung on to the one you had.. Back when those were the hot saw to have is back when I first started sawing.. Was saving money selling my crafts trying to get one of those P-20's.. The last one on the showroom floor of my local tool shop sold before I could get my hands on it.. They was sure one heck of a solid machine..

I'm doubting its the motor.. Very very few complaints on these motors.. My guess IF it has a fuse it's that OR the speed control.. which I believe is part of the circuit board.. I've seen plenty of people over the years having to replace that speed control..

We don't have them in my area.. I'm curious what will happen to their supposed handmade selling venue they just started online this year.. By the looks of the site... it has little traffic.. This was a big deal and talked about launch of it in the handmade community but once they opened up the website... hardly anyone talked about it, LOL

I like the idea... and also like the idea of getting a few new designs every year.. Little late in the year for me to take advantage for online sales anyway for this year.. I turn all custom orders away usually around November 1st.. as I am filling orders and trying to keep up with inventory.. so I don't have the time to do custom work.. If this was released in Sept. It'd work for me.. I'll buy it and get it online but it'll be for next year.. I don't know how much work went into getting this set up.. But I thought $20 was a little on the low side.. but I'm not complaining Thanks Travis for doing this.. I always liked Steve Goods personalized ornaments but as I said.. He is always releasing them way too late for me to take much advantage and for his I have to buy each pattern from him.. and for custom work I like to get the stuff done... and while his turnaround time might be alright.. I just like having the controls.. so I've never bought any of them from him.. which makes this idea genius..

Sounds like you did pretty darn good... Now you can buy more unfinished projects, LOL

Here is one thread on the subject that has quite a lot of info in it.

We are going to be remodeling after the busy holidays.. and part of that is a a new heat / ac system for the house.. the old one has only been used one full season and very little other than that once season.. but it is from 1994.. I've contemplated putting it up in my loft and running vents down into the shop on each side instead of buying the Bigmaxx heater I wanted..

I come to realize quite some time ago that I cannot possibly do all of the request I get.. I just make stuff.. try to keep inventory up on it while also trying to fulfill custom request.. As I said.. I pretty much stop doing custom request at least by December.. I love the custom request because many of my best selling items was ideas from customers, LOL I've inventoried about 25 each of every ornament I offer.. plus offering many new ones as of late. Tried to inventory 2-4 each of clocks. over the summer months.. I'll say.. this year is the fist year I think.. that I've already sold out of many ornaments.. and I've worked most of today making another 25 each of the sold out ones.. My busiest time isn't until after Thanksgiving.. and especially the 1st two weeks of December.. So anyway.. I just don't stress about it and do what I can.. turn away a lot of work every year in December.. Tell them to order early next year.. I now have people ordering Christmas stuff in Sept.. LOL

Maybe I'm the oddball but I like being busy.. I like making that special custom ordered ornament or clock at the last minute to fulfill someones last minute gift.. Yes it's busy.. but that is what keeps me going.. Some people stress about it.. then again.. I don't take on more work than I can handle either.. I stop offering custom made items by Dec. 1st.. many times before that.. just depends upon how busy I actually am.. It's only crazy busy for about 3-4 months of the year for me.. Maybe the difference is I do it all at home.. no crazy packing / setup / take down / unpacking etc for me.. I just pack up orders and hand them to the mailman every day.. For me.. I love the process of running business.. It's not about the money .. or scroll sawing for the money.. the money is the side effect of the process as a whole..

Thanks for the information.. I've seen this before somewhere in doing my research. I've also found contradicting info.. then you have the people that claim that a 3000 watt heater heats their 30 x 40 shop to T-shirt degrees.. makes it more confusing than ever to figure out what you really need... I also wonder how they calculate these findings.. Heating a shop to 70F vrs heating it to a 40 -50F might make the difference in what you need for a heater? Then you have efficiency.. a 3000 watt heater might run 3 times longer to maintain the heat.. while a 5000 watt heater uses more power.. it may heat up so much faster that it actually runs less time and less energy to do it.. I bought that heater I link to above for the simple reason I don't intend to heat the whole 24 x 32 shop.. I may not need the 5000 watt.. and it runs on 3 different levels so I may only need the 3000 watt ( low setting ) Electric heat power consumption into $$ is figured by the watt of heater.. ie 5000 watt x 24 hours divided by 1000 x cost per kilowatt.. 5000 x 24 =120,000 divided by 1000 = 120 x $0.20 = $24 NOW that is the cost if it runs continuous for the 24 hour period..

I've been a customer for a few years.. It's sad to see them close up shop.. but I also understand that running a small business on your property is not easily sold and transferable.. Then finding the right person that would take it over and run it like they'd want it run is far and few.. I'm doubtful that it's a huge profitable type business that rakes in the money that most people want for the amount of work at hand.. much like my small craft business.. Most people would not do it the way I do it.. as it is a lot of work for the money made.. You have to "love" doing it.. I have often thought about starting a business much like they run... to help with more income and use both craft sales and craft supplies to build a better income.. The problem I have is having the money for the inventory for all the clock styles and other things I'd offer.. I do sell clocks inserts now.. sales are far and few and then I have the ones that always ask if I'm going to be offering any other styles.. they like my prices but want different clock faces or sizes.. The issue is.. they may only want 1-10 inserts.. I have to buy a minimum of 100pcs.. and if I only order 100 the pricing changes drastically.. then I can't offer it at the cost I offer my clocks I use now.. I buy those because that's what I use.. Buy 500 at a time for the pricing.. One day.. I may start a supplies business as such.. but it'll be a slow going process to gradually build upon that business.. But for the time being.. I love what I do..

Natural gas is the way to go for cheaper heating options.. I can't get it though.. so it's electric or LP for me.. I eventually want to get that bigmaxx furnace.. But the price of the furnace and the install piping etc etc.. is a bit out of my price at the moment.. being tired of doing this in the cold with no heat at all for the past 10 years.. I opted to this heater https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/heaters/electric-garage-heaters/dyna-glo-5-000-watt-240-volt-electric-garage-heater/eg5000dgc/p-1562567355750-c-6328.htm?tid=-5823164050771698380&ipos=5 Already had the wire and breaker to hook it up.. Intend to make a temporary wall to only heat a small portion of the shop.. also don't intend to keep the shop at T-shirt temps.. I can deal with 35F - 40.. I've read a lot of reviews on these heaters and many loved them also many claim that it heated their bigger than mine shop great.. I will see once I get it hooked up.. hopeful it'll do the trick a couple years.. at least until my daughter is done with college and I can keep my money instead of giving it to the college, LOL

Right, but the thermostat on the hot water heater will keep the water warm.. so then the thermal switch could control the fans to a temp.. but.. you'd need a thermal switch that you could set the temp on.. a car runs at around 180 - 210 ish degrees.. a hot water heater "legal " limit is I believe 120.. for a home.. I know some people who run theirs at 130-140.. but it's not recommended..