kmmcrafts

My old DeWalt used to surge and spit, sputter when it was 35F or less.. even with the synthetic grease.. I always hated to run it that way.. but orders have to be made for business reasons... but after a couple minutes of running... it would warm up enough to run smooth.. Never blew a fuse.. never had to replace anything on that saw other than the one set of bearings & sleeves.. ran that saw hard production cutting for 10+ years.. I wish I had put an hour meter on that saw just to see how many ours are on it.. Based on the saws I have now with hour meters that I added to them back in march of this year.. Between all the saws I'm pushing close to 300 hours.. Some might say that's not too many hours.. for 9 months.. You'd be surprised at how much time you spend in the shop prepping for a project and then finishing a project.. also just how much time you spend with the saw off while doing a blade change etc.. I can spend 4-6 hours in the shop and barely get 2 hours on the saws clock.. I have my hour meters hooked up to the foot switch.. so I'm only clocking actual saw run times.. None of my 3 Hawks have any cold weather issues.. nor does this China made Excalibur..

Reminds me of back in the day when my buddy kept blowing fuses in his car for the radio he installed.. He got tired of replacing the fuse so he took some aluminum foil and wrapped a fuse with it and put it back in.. said that would be the last fuse he'd have to put in. learn the trick from another buddy that was having taillight issues.. Well needless to say.. it sure was the last fuse ever to be replaced in that car.. within a few hours that car was pretty much burnt to the ground,

Happy to hear you got it all sorted out...

The speed control switch ( assuming rheostat) is priced at $31.55.. The board runs $69.03 Motor is $195.00 Parts list for the excalibur so I do not know for certain these are the exact same part... Ray could tell you probably.. Here is the parts list with prices etc from his website... https://www.seyco.com/partspage/ Hope this helps you out.. Also hoping you don't need to spend a fortune to get the thing up and running,

The rheostat... I think is what they end up having to change.. whatever it is.. it's on the circuit board.. as Ray sells you a whole new board.. It's a different set up than my Hawk.. I replaced a $4 rheostat in the one saw I have... not because it was bad... but because I broke it when doing something else to the saw... Hawk wanted $150 for a whole new controller box.. I ordered a new rheostat and my son soldered it on for me...

I agree.. probably are the same one.. I've rebuilt a my DeWalt and my Excalibur.. I've had a lot of people over the years trying to tell me the EX type saws have sealed bearings.. The one I have doesn't.. exact same bearing as the DeWalt.. Sleeves are different but the bearings are the same thing.. same numbers on the bearings.. same manufacture.. Not sure how they last any longer than a DW does.. but many claim they do.. Maybe the older EX saws did have.. Mine is the newer China made one.. I've had a lot of problems with that saw.. I'll always be keeping my RBI Hawks around.. There are a lot of those old P-20's out there still running good.. You should have hung on to the one you had.. Back when those were the hot saw to have is back when I first started sawing.. Was saving money selling my crafts trying to get one of those P-20's.. The last one on the showroom floor of my local tool shop sold before I could get my hands on it.. They was sure one heck of a solid machine..

I'm doubting its the motor.. Very very few complaints on these motors.. My guess IF it has a fuse it's that OR the speed control.. which I believe is part of the circuit board.. I've seen plenty of people over the years having to replace that speed control..

We don't have them in my area.. I'm curious what will happen to their supposed handmade selling venue they just started online this year.. By the looks of the site... it has little traffic.. This was a big deal and talked about launch of it in the handmade community but once they opened up the website... hardly anyone talked about it, LOL

I like the idea... and also like the idea of getting a few new designs every year.. Little late in the year for me to take advantage for online sales anyway for this year.. I turn all custom orders away usually around November 1st.. as I am filling orders and trying to keep up with inventory.. so I don't have the time to do custom work.. If this was released in Sept. It'd work for me.. I'll buy it and get it online but it'll be for next year.. I don't know how much work went into getting this set up.. But I thought $20 was a little on the low side.. but I'm not complaining Thanks Travis for doing this.. I always liked Steve Goods personalized ornaments but as I said.. He is always releasing them way too late for me to take much advantage and for his I have to buy each pattern from him.. and for custom work I like to get the stuff done... and while his turnaround time might be alright.. I just like having the controls.. so I've never bought any of them from him.. which makes this idea genius..

Sounds like you did pretty darn good... Now you can buy more unfinished projects, LOL

Here is one thread on the subject that has quite a lot of info in it.

We are going to be remodeling after the busy holidays.. and part of that is a a new heat / ac system for the house.. the old one has only been used one full season and very little other than that once season.. but it is from 1994.. I've contemplated putting it up in my loft and running vents down into the shop on each side instead of buying the Bigmaxx heater I wanted..

I come to realize quite some time ago that I cannot possibly do all of the request I get.. I just make stuff.. try to keep inventory up on it while also trying to fulfill custom request.. As I said.. I pretty much stop doing custom request at least by December.. I love the custom request because many of my best selling items was ideas from customers, LOL I've inventoried about 25 each of every ornament I offer.. plus offering many new ones as of late. Tried to inventory 2-4 each of clocks. over the summer months.. I'll say.. this year is the fist year I think.. that I've already sold out of many ornaments.. and I've worked most of today making another 25 each of the sold out ones.. My busiest time isn't until after Thanksgiving.. and especially the 1st two weeks of December.. So anyway.. I just don't stress about it and do what I can.. turn away a lot of work every year in December.. Tell them to order early next year.. I now have people ordering Christmas stuff in Sept.. LOL

Maybe I'm the oddball but I like being busy.. I like making that special custom ordered ornament or clock at the last minute to fulfill someones last minute gift.. Yes it's busy.. but that is what keeps me going.. Some people stress about it.. then again.. I don't take on more work than I can handle either.. I stop offering custom made items by Dec. 1st.. many times before that.. just depends upon how busy I actually am.. It's only crazy busy for about 3-4 months of the year for me.. Maybe the difference is I do it all at home.. no crazy packing / setup / take down / unpacking etc for me.. I just pack up orders and hand them to the mailman every day.. For me.. I love the process of running business.. It's not about the money .. or scroll sawing for the money.. the money is the side effect of the process as a whole..

Thanks for the information.. I've seen this before somewhere in doing my research. I've also found contradicting info.. then you have the people that claim that a 3000 watt heater heats their 30 x 40 shop to T-shirt degrees.. makes it more confusing than ever to figure out what you really need... I also wonder how they calculate these findings.. Heating a shop to 70F vrs heating it to a 40 -50F might make the difference in what you need for a heater? Then you have efficiency.. a 3000 watt heater might run 3 times longer to maintain the heat.. while a 5000 watt heater uses more power.. it may heat up so much faster that it actually runs less time and less energy to do it.. I bought that heater I link to above for the simple reason I don't intend to heat the whole 24 x 32 shop.. I may not need the 5000 watt.. and it runs on 3 different levels so I may only need the 3000 watt ( low setting ) Electric heat power consumption into $$ is figured by the watt of heater.. ie 5000 watt x 24 hours divided by 1000 x cost per kilowatt.. 5000 x 24 =120,000 divided by 1000 = 120 x $0.20 = $24 NOW that is the cost if it runs continuous for the 24 hour period..

I've been a customer for a few years.. It's sad to see them close up shop.. but I also understand that running a small business on your property is not easily sold and transferable.. Then finding the right person that would take it over and run it like they'd want it run is far and few.. I'm doubtful that it's a huge profitable type business that rakes in the money that most people want for the amount of work at hand.. much like my small craft business.. Most people would not do it the way I do it.. as it is a lot of work for the money made.. You have to "love" doing it.. I have often thought about starting a business much like they run... to help with more income and use both craft sales and craft supplies to build a better income.. The problem I have is having the money for the inventory for all the clock styles and other things I'd offer.. I do sell clocks inserts now.. sales are far and few and then I have the ones that always ask if I'm going to be offering any other styles.. they like my prices but want different clock faces or sizes.. The issue is.. they may only want 1-10 inserts.. I have to buy a minimum of 100pcs.. and if I only order 100 the pricing changes drastically.. then I can't offer it at the cost I offer my clocks I use now.. I buy those because that's what I use.. Buy 500 at a time for the pricing.. One day.. I may start a supplies business as such.. but it'll be a slow going process to gradually build upon that business.. But for the time being.. I love what I do..

Natural gas is the way to go for cheaper heating options.. I can't get it though.. so it's electric or LP for me.. I eventually want to get that bigmaxx furnace.. But the price of the furnace and the install piping etc etc.. is a bit out of my price at the moment.. being tired of doing this in the cold with no heat at all for the past 10 years.. I opted to this heater https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/heaters/electric-garage-heaters/dyna-glo-5-000-watt-240-volt-electric-garage-heater/eg5000dgc/p-1562567355750-c-6328.htm?tid=-5823164050771698380&ipos=5 Already had the wire and breaker to hook it up.. Intend to make a temporary wall to only heat a small portion of the shop.. also don't intend to keep the shop at T-shirt temps.. I can deal with 35F - 40.. I've read a lot of reviews on these heaters and many loved them also many claim that it heated their bigger than mine shop great.. I will see once I get it hooked up.. hopeful it'll do the trick a couple years.. at least until my daughter is done with college and I can keep my money instead of giving it to the college, LOL

Right, but the thermostat on the hot water heater will keep the water warm.. so then the thermal switch could control the fans to a temp.. but.. you'd need a thermal switch that you could set the temp on.. a car runs at around 180 - 210 ish degrees.. a hot water heater "legal " limit is I believe 120.. for a home.. I know some people who run theirs at 130-140.. but it's not recommended..

My cars heat with hot water.. I'm not usually froze unless they haven't warmed up to temp yet.. I think what the fellow I talked with was using obviously a homemade set up with hot water heater and a couple car radiators.. with car electric fans that normally cool the engine.. These fans can be hooked up to a thermostat much like the car has.. when the car gets hot.. they kick on to cool the car engine. Remember I did say " small shop " This wouldn't work for a shop like mine that is 24 x 32.. but a small shed 12 x 10 or something I could see this working quite well to heat.. after all.. the small heater core in a car is only about 1/4 the size of a large radiator that cools the engine.. and they heat up large vans just fine.. For those living in the south where it doesn't get below freezing.. you could pipe out some lines and put them on your roof.. let the sun pre-heat the hot water for the water heater so it's not as costly to heat the water.. As for freezing temps.. just leave the pump on.. moving water does't freeze nearly as easy as standing water does.. This is why they say to leave a small drip of water running in extreme cold temps to help prevent your pipes from freezing..

Not very often I cut only two 1/8" in a stack.. I typically am cutting 4-6 at a time.. On occasion I stack two and that's usually because it's something personalized that I just don't need more than the two.. Anyway.. cutting two I would use a Pegas MG #3.. actually pretty much use the number 3 up to 3/8 - 1/2" stock.. and then a number 5 from 1/2 - 3/4 unless it's a puzzle.. then I use the #3.. It doesn't look too intricate where a very small blade is really needed...

Was talking to a local woodworker that said the safest way to heat a dusty shop is to put in a electric hot water heater and plum it to a radiator with a small pump.. Just thought the idea was interesting.. Not sure how efficient it would be but might be an idea for those with a smaller work shop.. I don't think it'd work too well for my larger shop..

When I first bought my DeWalt.. I read about the poorly made clamps and was told I should have a set of extras on hand.. so i did just that.. Bought a pair of replacements for the day they stripped out... unfortunately I'm not heavy handed on the thumb screws.. I owned that saw and ran it hard.. rebuilt it once and it needed new bearings again when i sold it.. in fact I sold it with all new bearings and sleeves for the new owner.. I never did need those replacement clamps.. in fact 12 years of production cutting.. I never even needed new thumb screws or set screws.. I took them out once in a while and rough up the ends.. a small drop of oil on the threads ( only the threads ) can go a long way on these clamps and screws.. the screw threads get dirty too.. making sure they work nice and smooth will go a long way with them.. sometimes you don't have to be heavy handed to strip out threads.. if they get dirty threads.. that dirt and grit sand them down for you.. Maybe its my mechanical background that helps me understand how to "take care" of equipment and how much stress certain things can take.. Not sure.. but I've never ever worn out a set of blade chucks or thumb screws.. As I said.. a little maintenance can go a long way.... Just my two cents..

I've read from many places and many different people that they are getting blade slippage.. This may or may not be the set screw or thumb screw rather than the actual clamp..

There are apps for your phone if you're doing everything from your phone.. I have no experience with editing videos.. you get the raw cut and even sometimes actual live video depending on where the person is following me from, LOL My one son does editing but he downloads the video to the computer and then edits.. he also compresses it to upload fast.. since we have slower DSL internet.. My other son does it right from his phone with one of the free apps from the app store.. I downloaded an app to do it.. just can't get time to figure out how to edit, LOL

I have the dremel plunge router with a Wen rotary tool.. total cost was around $60 by the time I bought the Wen.. the plunge router, and the small drill chuck for the tool.. and I got all this stuff cheap.. Just my opinion.. and not having any experience with the Seyco drill.. I think I would go with the Seyco drill... UNLESS you already have a rotary tool that'd work in the plunge router.. This is my take on the plunge router set up I have.. The unit is cheap and made of plastic.. there is some side to side play in the plunging action.. that can make you drill holes on several degrees off of a straight 90.. This isn't as much of an issue if you'er just drilling thin stock.. but drilling several stack cuts or thicker material if you're not careful to "try" to make it s close to 90 degrees as possible you could be drilling through where you don't want to be drilling through on the back side of the project.. For a few dollars more.. I think the seyco would be much more accurate.. I use my Dremel set up daily.. but I drill my holes away from the edge enough in case I'm not drilling a good 90 degrees.. I won't use it at all where I want a precise hole such as drilling on a line where I will be doing some veining.. I use my regular drill press for that.. Now... as i said.. I don't know the seyco drill either.. maybe it's not accurate either.. That is just something to think about with these small plastic drills.. if there is any slop when new.. it'll have quite a lot in a year or so.. and any slop will throw you off of a true 90 degrees.. But I will say.. I love the set up for just doing quick drilling where accuracy isn't a huge deal and I use the drill press where I need to be spot on.. Just my 2 cents