kmmcrafts

I've read where FB will terminate your account for violation of their terms of use ( posting Copywritten /trademarked ) things on their marketplace for selling..

Not extreme enough... you forgot to burn the sawdust created while making the project.. and now you posted on the web that you made it.. also post clearly states you knew iy was a copyright.. but made it anyway..... If I was you... I'd go straight to the authorities and get it straightened out now... the fine 50 years from now will be much more AND the ulcers you get from worrying about it all those years will affect your health.. Seriously though copyright stuff is no joke... BUT.. a lawsuit on someone making a gift for someone where money wasn't really exchanged in the original post seems pretty extreme... I could see if they was informed to cease making them..but continued.. or was advertising them for sale somewhere... Maybe a sting where the shop displaying the logo put a agent in touch with the person that made the logo and they was working out a deal to make another for the agent..? that maybe a possibility but still seems pretty far stretched.. In the original scenario... it seems to lack any proof of the guy even making the logo... How can that be proved.. one mans word of saying where he got it... what if he didn't like the guy and lied about it.. I just feel there is not enough evidence in the story to push the issue as they did.. either the story isn't the whole truth or completely made up.. I suspect the guy was working another deal with the agent... and this part of the story isn't being told.. I have friends and family that are always asking for sports themed things and I say NO.. Because once you do one.. then their friends and their friends friends ask for the stuff.. The only people I've ever done this for is my kids... Friends over time can become enemies if you're not careful... and sorry.. but... I just don't make that stuff for anyone... Not even free.. as I said.. they have other friends.. and family etc..

Depending on how thick of wood you cut but a template could be added ( stack cut ) so after the first cut you have your template for the next time you cut..

I'll stick to computer files to print on paper.. with ability to modify, resize, personalize etc etc etc... Not very practical for what i do.... I could see this for certain type of projects..but not for the things I make..

IF, he has a free wix sight.. he may have reached his daily transfer limit.. I have a free site on wix and it only allowed so much data transfers (GB) of page views per hour and per day... I believe he has the free site so this maybe the case as well..

I thought he started a new site... maybe the link in the resources is the wrong one???

Go to the pattern section here... OR... Go to the resources tab at the top and in the drop down you can find the tab for pattern shops.. in there you'll find a list with many other web pages where patterns can be either bought or some free ones as well... I'm like JT... I have a long list of patterns i want to cut... probably never get to half of them..

Oh boy, I cannot remember the name of the font now.. I have downloaded many " Modified " fonts from over the years where scroll sawers / designers created them specifically for scroll sawing.. I believe this was one from that list.. There is a website one of the pattern site ( not very well known or popular) where there is most all of these modified fonts are available for free download.. When i got my new computer and lost all of those fonts... I had a heck of a time finding this website.. I'll look and see if I can find it again.. I thought i bookmarked it.. pretty sure I did.. but so far I can't seem to find the bookmark either.. Maybe its on my other computer which I run my CNC from.. which needs a new battery or it won't turn on.. so it might be a few weeks,

I do agree with both sides of the laser vrs scroll work.. I have not used my laser yet to do what i intended it to do which is like Scott is doing... I originally bought it to personalize ornaments where you have no wood left to cut out a name or date... But this fall when asked to do some personalization I found that I like the look of it scrolled better.. I also found now that i'm getting a little better with inkscape I can change up text etc.. such as I did with these ornaments for this construction company.. Where there is no room so I modify it to have room.. I think it looks cleaner and really takes no more time than setting up the laser to do the work for me.. While you may be brave enough to leave the laser unattended while working on something else... that isn't something i would consider doing.. after all it is burning wood... should the head get jammed and stop moving while you're not paying attention.. better have a fire extinguisher handy.. The laser takes just as much time as scrolling it out.. and in my case.. I sold this company 150 of these.. that would take a long time to do with the laser as opposed to stack cutting these out.. What Scott is doing puzzles and only able to cut one at a time anyway.. I don't see much disadvantage to what he is doing.. It could help his business... and as I said in another post.. most customers are just excited about getting something with the personalization and they care less if it's scrolled or lasered..

Still getting plenty of custom ornament orders in. Cut these out today. Made the CB radio with the handle name in the banner. That’s a popular custom / personalized order I get plenty of each year. The Camaro ornament was personalized with “ Cammy” The other ornament is a company that I always send a gazillion ornaments to every year for their Christmas party and was an extra (broke) one but seen it laying there so thought I’d show it. Cammy is cut from cherry, others are BBply Still have more ornaments to cut yet before getting caught up. Then a personalized wedding angel which is a Sue Mey pattern but will be adding the wedding date.

In the K40 40 watt lasers they have a aftermarket lens holder / nozzle.. that has a spot to hook up a air line to a air pump.. this essentially blows the smoke away and thus makes for clean crisp engraving.. or cut edges.. they're getting really good results with those cheap K40 lasers now that the edges are hard to tell if it was laser cut or scroll sawn.. As for added work and business side of it... They might help keep you in business.. A lot of my work is custom or personalized.. there was a time I did it because business was slow .. I used to charge extra money to do personalized work and I wasn't making much money doing it because I wasn't very good with the designing part of it.. It doesn't take long to cut out different text than what I already had ( like at the bottom of my car clocks saying Chevy or whatever car ) and going into inkscape and taking text out and adding text used to take me forever to figure out.. Now I rarely charge extra for the custom work.. Takes like 5 minutes to change the text and print the design. Cutting time is sometimes less sometimes more. Without doing custom work like that.. I'd have to sell my tools and get a real job.. LOL I wanted a laser to do as you're doing for adding custom dates and names to ornaments where there is little to no room to do it with a scroll saw... I also wanted something powerful enough to play around with cutting 1/8 - 1/4 in wood.. Personally these days... Most all your customers could care less on the " how it's made " aspect.. They are just thrilled to get that unique personalized gift for so and so... I think it's more about the other woodworkers and scroll sawers that have a attitude about machines they think are running them out of business... I see it all the time... quotes like... I can't compete with a laser spitting out hundreds of pieces an hour, LOL.. Uneducated is what they really are.. Take quite a laser machine to cut through 3/4" poplar and not burn the crap out of the edges.. LOL... A CNC router could do the puzzles... but probably take about 1+ hour to make each puzzle, LOL and you can scroll them in 20 minutes.. There could be an advantage if you have a whole shop full of CNCs but then you'd have several thousand dollars in CNC's, and computers to run them and probably still not do the work the scroll saw could do..

Nice set up Scott.. One day I need to set up my laser I bought last year.. This one looks easy to use.. I have no idea how hard the one I got is to use.. I got it for the sole purpose of doing like what you are doing here... and many times I get request ( a lot of them ) for engraved or personalized ornaments and many other things.. a lot of the ornaments are too small to try to cut something out of with the saw so I intended to do engraving with my K40 laser.. I just haven't taken time to set it up... too much fun trying to learn the CNC router.. in my free time.. I like how your laser will mark out the spot where it'll engrave.. You're brave to put that machine on a scroll saw site.. Let's see how many fireballs get thrown at you... I still have third degree burns from a year ago about putting stuff about my CNC router on here, and it can do very little of the same stuff as a scroll saw can.. no different than talking about a planer, lathe or any other type of woodwork tool.. Now.. when I start showing the laser cut ornaments with my laser.. that'll be the day I get blown up and off the site.. LOL Best of luck with your new toy and the possibilities it'll bring to your shop.. Before long you're going to need a few more of those lasers.. at 15 minutes to do your web address and making 1600 puzzles etc.. that's going to take a lot of extra time to do that.. LOL

I looked not long ago The Festool runs 62db on low.. and the Fein is 66db.. Not bad I guess.. I measured the sound on my shop vac with a db app on my phone.. Showed me 78db.. For what it's worth.. I found a muffler / defuser thing at Ace hardware for my shop vac.. Honestly don't think it made a difference whatsoever.. I should run a test on it to see for sure.. but sure doesn't seem like it made any difference.

That's how I had my foot switch on my DeWalt.. Though the way I mounted mine I didn't need to drill any holes it had molded tabs on each end where you could drill a hole to mount it.. I used the tap as a clamp so to speak and just wrapped the zip ties around the stand.. Held in place nice but every now and then it'd slip forward and I'd have to wiggle it back... I had a HF on / off foot switch for that saw and it had the wires coming out the same end..

As a kid growing up we had a Filter Queen.. I sure don't remember it being quiet... Mom always fired the thing up when my TV show came on.. ... Maybe it was quieter than a shop vac.. but I don't think it was...

That sounds more logical.. since fine dust is so easily blown / moved around.. it seems like it'd go with the air flow... that is unless a filter of some sort stops / traps it... Just walking into a shop that has no collection or filter systems etc.. walking about a shop like that will stir up the fine dust.. This is why a filter / cleaner type system is important.. You should have some type of filter in your vac for this reason... The smaller the dust is.. the easier it is to just blow back out the vac.. and that fine dust is what gets past your sinus passages and into the lungs.. If you get a large piece in your lungs then you're trying to sniff sawdust and should check into a drug rehab

I do imagine there are some systems maybe better air flow design etc that some may work better than others.. I didn't really consider that thought in my last reply... . The ore expensive dust deputy funnel shaped units maybe a better design than the basic design like mine has.. Yours looks to have one hose going into one side of the lid and the other in the center of the top? I think most all of them systems would work descent with larger chips but that fine scroll saw dust maybe needs a better system.. This will be an interesting topic.. I need to check my canister and my vac bag etc.. i just replaced the bag.. so maybe I'll run a test on how much my system is catching..

I'm not sure how well any of these dust separator things work.. You have to figure that the dust from a scroll saw is very fine dust and not much weight to it.. easily blown around or sucked up.... Maybe just me but I would think it'd take a decent filter to stop that dust from passing through the hoses and separators.. I'd be curious how much is in your bucket.. I only ran my new separator a few minutes.. only half as much work as you have done.. Only hooked up the vac to the dust port on the excalibur and I had a far amount of dust in the corners of the bucket on only just a few cuts.. On a more positive note.. at least the vacuum filter caught the dust rather than send it back into the air like many of them do... I use a shop vac.. and use a higher end filter for fine dust.. I also use bags.. rather than filling up the filter and the vac canister....

I also got a new stool for Christmas... Has much more padding.. Problem now is it's too comfy and could take a nap, LOL

Mike passed away some years ago.. I don't remember now how long ago it was.. but pretty sure it's been more than a couple years ago.. His website is still up and running and I think it was BearWoods that took over the business / site? I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong on that.. They still have good service as far as I know.. but it's not like the personalized service you got from Mike I don't think..

Yeah I've also done that.. But this one isn't worth the effort really.. Maybe it's just me because I want one that lights up.. all the letters etc on this one has worn off.. and well.. I'm used to it I guess.. but when I'm tired before coffee etc.. I get my fingers in the wrong spots make up new words.. both on the screen and coming out my mouth, ..

Gotta say, I hate my keyboard.. It's a wireless thing that has quiet buttons but you almost have to hit them with a hammer to get them to work.. Was wonderful when new.. but didn't take long to mess up.. and I swear it sometimes chooses the letter next to the one I actually hit.. At least that's my excuse, LOL and my keys are sticking too it too. LOL... One day I hit the space bar and it did a whole page of spaces before I could get it unstuck.. Guess I should have asked santa for a new one..

Yeah, after sanding some and getting them crooked some years ago I did the sanding jig thing.. It's the only way to do it.. Just be careful to also start threading it into the wood straight.. as the wood is soft and you make the threads by turning it in straight.. The ideal thing to do is to make a metal plate with threads.. but this works fine as long as you're careful to get it started straight.. I think I originally seen this tip on Steve Goods blog.. I rarely have to dress the screws and most probably wouldn't have to do it.. Since I work on cars a lot I always keep cans of brake clean around.. I typically remove the screws and spray paper towel, wipe them down good then add a drop of 3-N-1 oil to the threads so they thread smooth into the clamps.. Make sure you don't get the oil on the tips, LOL.. Dirty threads will make you think you're clamping down hard on the blade.. but you threads are actually binding with grime in them.. I keep them running good and smooth.. Run my DeWalt for 10+ years production cutting with the original clamps and screws only dress them about 3 times.. Also.. I never have cleaned off the blades themselves or sanded them etc.. I just clean up the screws about every couple weeks.. Caution doing the brake clean though.. it will melt the little O-ring on the screws tips if you have the rotating tips like the EX and Dewalt saws have.. also hard on the plastic portion of the handle.. I always spray on a paper towel and then wipe the tips down and then the threads after it started to dry up.. rather than spraying the actual thumb screw and soaking the whole thing.. Has worked well for me doing this.. hardly ever dress out the screws like I used to do..

A heat lamp will warm up the saw table fairly well

Saw prices are all over the place depending on location. I’ve been watching the Hefner’s for a couple years now and a saw like yours in my area are listed from $300 - 500 with an occasional one now and then for $250 . I’ve never seen one listed below $250