kmmcrafts

Here is a link to a topic just like this where others actually posted their shops.. when they was clean maybe? LOL.. My shop was a mess but I took pictures anyway, LOL.. Always figured a clean shop is one where nobody works.. just a hang out place.. I clean up the dust etc.. every day after working... but it still gets dirty etc.. doesn't help when the kids go work in there and don't clean up.. Put my foot down on that one.. they seem to be getting better at cleaning up..

Looks different now.. because I've bought a new Hawk, CNC Router, and a Laser since this photo was taken... I've re-arranged it and now it's more cramped because of more tools.. and project cars LOL..

If you use PBBlaster.. I'd make sure the saw is unplugged.. There is wires running from the power switch etc in that cover.. I'd also cover up the table of the saw to keep the oil from getting on it and then getting onto the next project you cut.. My Excalibur has hex head screws and requires an allen wrench to remove it.. and they was tight the first time removing them.. once broke loose they spun right out with my fingers so they wasn't really rusty or anything.. just tight, LOL.. BTW.. about the only thing that was tight on the saw too..

Nope.. only sealed bearing in the Hawks I have is the ones in the rocker shaft ( the flat steel bar that connects the lower arm to the motor ) The bearings in the arms at the back of the saw is a open cage bearing.. also the bearings on / in the motor are sealed.. Yes I took the motor apart before too.. They're built like a tank and will last a lifetime... apparently even if you don't oil them as the manual says to do.. LOL Not really something I'd tell everyone if I didn't ever oil my machine... but I'm glad you mentioned it because now we all know just how well they're built.. Bad part about Hawk is.. you can't get through to them to get parts if / when you need them..

Yeah the easy lift like Bill showed in his link is what I liked best. there are a couple others on the market too but this set up ( I thought ) was the better more user friendly one..

The mistake was I should have cut that little sliver off of the O after cutting out the R right around the -2:37 minutes left of the video mark.. Instead I cut out the O.. But at least I caught that before taking the pattern off and made the cut.. Blade was a #3 Pegas MG. Took me a few minutes longer than it should have because of the camera.. and the fact that I normally move the light out of my way during blade changes so the light was in my way for them.. and of coarse.. much harder to scroll looking through the phone screen instead of through my mag light.. with the light on I kept getting the LED wave link ( black spots and couldn't see what was going on.. then turning the light off made it hard to do as well.. But I got through the whole thing before iving up, LOL... I normally use my other mag light that is florescent bulb for doing videos.. but my son it borrowing it... OH Yes.. forgot to mention.. I did speed up the video.. ( I think 5x ) normal video was about 34 minutes ) I normally can cut this out in just under 20 minutes. but with video etc took a little extra time.. plus I bent a blade there near the beginning so I had to get another blade. not sure you caught that either.. Being the video was sped up it was easily missed.. Bent the blade because the mag light was in my way, LOL.. as I said... normally move it out of the way.. Just didn't want to bounce the video all around by moving the light.. as the camera was taped to my mag light lens.. so you see what I see while cutting..

I made another video cutting out a puzzle on my Excalibur this morning. My phone picks up the led light waves (black lines) so I shut off the light a couple minutes into the video. I made a mistake on this puzzle, let’s see who points it out. My new phone is much bigger than my old one and makes it even harder to see my work as I tape my phone to the lens of the magnifying light so you see better than I do Enjoy

I try to stay on the line as good as I can. Always think I do an awesome job until I put my glasses on .

Yes congrats to all of you for making it to the 50 years.. and the others for making it to where you are.. seems these days a lot of folks lucky to make it 5 years.. and that is very sad.. This year will be 27 years for us.. No doubt in my mind that we'll make it to the 50 if we live long enough..

I still use blades from all the major brands and once in a while switch things up on purpose just to give myself a challenge and also to remind myself what blades are really my favorite, LOL.. I have several gross of FD blades that was my go to blade for years.. I'm slowly trying to use them up.. Have considered using those instead of placing an order soon for the Pegas.. Several hundred $$ in stock of FD blades that just sitting there.. Also a few gross of Olsen blades... certainly enough blades to last me another year+ if I decide to use them up, LOL I also have many sample packs of the Pegas that are not the MG blades that I should use up.. so I may just run through these blades for the year and save myself the money and use up these blades..

I seen this recently.. I want to say Steve Good's pattern... but I could be wrong.. Now I'm curious and gotta go look for it, LOL

I never dealt with Bear woods before that order and not since that order, LOL.. While they did take care of me.. My original order took them 20 some days for them to get it in the mail.. then another 10 days or something like that.. to get to me.. I was hesitant to contact them to complain.. but then it was only like 3 days and my replacement blades was here... so not sure how they did all that so fast.. either way.. The original order being my first experience just turned me off... as i received no messages saying they was back ordered or anything... and I thought there was no reason to be that long to get a order mailed out.. Realizing they are in Canada I knew they would be a while.. but to wait 20 days just to get it in the mail.. DnD was out of stock as they pulled the blades off the inventory because they was bad.. I thought the Pegas company pulled them.. and Bear Woods had them in stock still so one and only dealings with Bear woods and they screwed it up waiting 20 days and then sending out the bad blades when it was known there was issues.. as I said.. DnD pulled them off the inventory to inspect them.. I have respect for them doing that.. rather than just send them out and see if the customer complains..

Ray, I don't know what the flaws are... But I think the cutting looks top notch from what I see.. nice tight inside and outside corners and the circles look almost like you drilled them etc.. This stuff is free hand.. and the cutting you do on these isn't exactly easy to do... so I think you did an awesome job.. it looks great. looking forward to seeing the finished piece..

Did you like them before the issue? LOL When I had issues with the number 5's I contacted bearwood (where I got them) and they contacted Bob Duncan... about 3-4 days later I had 3 new replacement gross of them that replaced the bad ones I ordered.. I sorta felt bad because I was able to use about half of that 3 gross and actually never had issue with those bad ones in my EX-21.. only real issue was with the Hawk.. They've since changed the #5 back to the way they originally was.. Back around 2008-9 ish.. FD sent out a bad batch of blades and I was ticked off.. swore up and down I'd never use them again.. ( only person I was hurting was myself because I hated the Olsen blades too, LOL) Little did I know at that time was that Mike was replacing the bad blades if we contacted him.. I didn't find that out until after the fact I used them all as best I could.. as he wanted us to return the bad ones that we had left.. Pegas just told me to throw them out.. I probably should have.. but didn't because they do work in my back-up saw ( EX-21 ) without much issue..

Very nice work, I feel no purchased gift will ever outdo a homemade gift.. I know some think differently about that but.. not me.. well unless the gift is a new scroll saw or something.. However.. the scroll saw is something that'd wear out and one day be in a scrap pile somewhere.. a homemade gift will always be treasured for a lifetime and then some.. Again, very well done..

Okay, I'm wondering how long these have been out... anybody know? Now that you mention the space between the reverse teeth and the cutting teeth is shorter.. A light bulb lit in my brain, I can't remember how long ago this was but I remember getting some blades that I could hardly tell what was top end or bottom end because they moved the space between the teeth closer. Never occurred to me to count the teeth or anything.. They do cut very slightly different.. but I'm guessing they've been this way for a year.. It all started right around the same time I had issues with the #5 blade.. just shortly after that.. Anyway, These are what I've been using for quite some time now.. They still cut pretty good.. other than it is very slightly different in the tight turns as mentioned.. Back then... I didn't use a #3 much so I may not have noticed this very drastically.. the #5 was my go to blade.. and the issues I had with them made me switch to the #3 because I could cut a good while without breaking the blade.. while the #5 was breaking as soon as I turn the saw on in some cases.. I never had a issue with the #5 on the DW788 or EX but I couldn't use them on the Hawk..

I'm with Gary on this since I've also never used hot glue for a stack.. I also wonder how others go about it with tape.. because I feel like taping would be quickest and easiest way to do a stack..Maybe I'm wrong.. Here is my method - First I cut my BBply or solid wood blanks down to the size I need. I never ever make a stack that has all different sized pieces ( well maybe not never but I try my best to avoid that ) because then you do not get a good solid taped together block.. I apply the shelf liner to one of the pieces and make it obviously the top piece. Then I grab the other pieces square them all up by standing them up on edge. I use clear packing tape but have used blue painters tape with the same results so I don't know that that makes any difference.. ( Do Not Try The Shelf Liner... It will end in Disaster... Don't ask ) Anyway I take a piece of tape almost the length of one of the edges and stick it to the top piece and as I said I stand the stack up.. I then use my hands to squeeze the stack tight while folding the tape around the edges and sticking it to the back ( bottom ) pieces.. I proceed this onto all four sides... I've been doing this way for 15 years and never had a stack fail... again... just don't try using shelf liner.. That will fail you.. I don't know if it matters a lot on the stack.. but I do use a higher end packing tape.. I use the Duct brand and it's called easy start.. It sticks good.. but also peels back up good.. Used to use dollar store tape.. sticks good.. also breaks and rips easy as it's thin wimpy tape.. The "easy start" is a thicker material tape and it does work decent for taping up to cover wood for pattern too.... BUT.. don't leave it for more than a few days because it don't come off easy.. and the liner works so much better anyway for this.. as it covers all in one piece.. Personally if I was going to go about stack cutting any different than i do now.. I'd get a pin nailer and do that route.. You could stack uneven sized pieces with no issues.. It'd be quick easy.. and you could put some in waist areas out in the middle of the pattern to hold the middle from bouncing around easier etc.. This method is the one I've really wanted to try.. No waiting for the glue gun to heat up etc.. My issue with it is.. you need to make sure to sand grind or something.. with the pins that go through the back side.. otherwise you scratch the saw table all up..

I've been meaning to try the hot glue for stack cutting.. For some reason after using just regular packing tape ( always have a lot of that on hand since I use it daily for packing / mailing packages of orders ) or 15 years it's just habit for me to grab the tape.. then when I'm done I think.. darn it.. I was going to try hot glue, LOL My hot glue gun is a rather small one.. I got it years ago when the kids was little and wanted it to fit their hands.. and quite honestly. I bet in the 20 years of owning it.. I've used it maybe 3 times, LOL so the size of it isn't a problem for me.. It's not like I'm on a production line glue gunning stacks for 8 hours, LOL

I just re-read you post Ray.. and there is a difference in bearings / sleeves between the Excalibur and the DeWalt.. ONLY at the back of the saw.. BUT I think it's only a couple of them that's different.. NOW keep in mind.. I'm working on a China made saw not the original EX.. but I also think from my findings.. there is no difference in parts between the old EX and the China made one.. other than just cheaper quality bearings / sleeves etc with sloppy tolerances.. My saw was sort of sloppy right out of the box.. I took it apart and cleaned greased the bearings.. I have a full set of bearings and sleeves for the DeWalt I had.. and was going to use them to replace bad / sloppy bearings in my EX but they're different at the back of the saw.. The front portion (rocker arms etc) is the same thing.. Bob stated in another forum that the pitman arm bearing is the only difference they made to the Pegas saw... they used a smaller diameter bearing which tightened up the tolerance at the back of the saw.. I do not know if one could retrofit the pitman arm from the Pegas to a EX or not..

Well I too have many saws.. 3 Hawks, a Excalibur and a older 16" Delta.. all work and i use all of them.. I have a couple of my favorite go to saws.. but this doesn't help the situation of needing a part for one or another of the saws.. When one saw only needs a $10 bearing.. I'm not interested in parting out the saw that works for the one that don't.. NOW... if something bigger goes bad.. like a motor or other pricey part.. I'd part out the rest of it.. I've just never had a saw that broke that needed anything expensive to repair it..

From what I've read.. the Pegas has a smaller bearing in the pitman arm at the back of the saw.. and it may still work on a EX types if you change the whole arm maybe?.. Other than that... they're the same bearings and basically the same saw.. I learn this from Bob Duncan on another message board.. I'd just like to see a website up with parts & prices of individual parts.. I'm doubting it'll happen because not everyone has the ability to press bearings in and out etc.. so a better way is to sell whole assemblies.. Even DeWalt only sells the whole assemblies.. BUT... they do offer the sleeves.. and that gives a work around for those that don't mind chasing down the correct bearings.. Most times there is only 2- 3 bearings & sleeves that are bad.. and you can repair it yourself for $20-30 instead of $120 for the whole assembly.. But it's easier and more practical for a company to sell as an assembly I would think..

I'm just wondering if anyone knows of any parts sources for the Excalibur other than Ray at Seyco?? I don't need any parts.. I'm just asking because every time I've seen any post topic where parts are needed.. I've never seen anyone mentioned other than Seyco.. I've tried looking up parts on other sites like ereplacementparts and there seems to be nothing for the Excalibur.. Been a few times i was trying to look up just the bearing sleeves and used just the part numbers from the manual.. nothing usually comes up.. Ray sells components as assemblies.. but I've never seen anything broke down into individual parts.. I'd like to buy new sleeves and bearings.. Ray only sells the whole arm assemblies for the back half of the saw.. and the whole rocker assemblies for the front.. the rockers come with EX clamps as a whole unit.. I don't need another set of brand new EX style clamps as i have the Pegas clamps.. I'm sure we could contact Pegas for parts.. I just like to look up individual parts.. I don't need to build a whole new saw.. I only need sleeves.. I have most of the bearings as they're the same as the DeWalt used.. but the sleeves are different.. I'm not able to find just sleeves.. Maybe calling Ray at Seyco I could get individual parts.. I like to be able to look up my own.. and figure up the cost to see if it's worth the effort..

You do know you can buy just the swivel ends right? Seyco sells just the swivel.. as long as the thread are in good shape you can just replace the tips.. IF the threads are worn... odds are the clamp head threads are weak too..and I'd suggest replacing it or adding a thread insert.. You may try roughing up the tips with sandpaper.. if that don't work.. You may also have spread the clamp head apart and new screws etc won't help that..

Suppose if I order 4 gross of the blades they'll will throw in a scroll saw.. I mean you know.. if you buy a scroll saw they throw in a pack of blades right? just seems like it would work the other way too... maybe if you order enough blades that'll work.. Now I'm wondering how many blades i need to order to get a free scroll saw, Hahahaha..

I can clearly see the difference.. Thanks for the picture and the additional info.. I suppose I'll get used to them too.. so long as they aren't breaking and giving fits like I was having with the test batch of the number 5's last year.. I adapt quite well to new blades.. I'm not one of those that struggle with going from the straighter cutting blades to those blades that have that bur and cut on a slight angle.. I don't pay close attention to how I feed the wood to the blade.. I pay close attention to where the blade is going and follow the line.. So I suppose as long as they cut close to the same aggressiveness etc I may not have any issue with them.. Honestly don't know how they could improve upon a already great blade.. but it seems as though Pegas is trying to bring the best it can to their customers... That says a lot for a company these days.. I'll continue using them..