kmmcrafts

Thanks for the heads up.. I guess when I place my order.. instead of ordering 4-5 gross as I usually do I'm just going to order a small amount and see how I like them..

Just a note: I do "tape" the pattern together before trying to "stick" it to the wood.. I use the 1/2" wide tape and tape it on the front ( pattern )side and then also flip it over and tape the back side too.. Then I cut off the excess paper around the pattern so I'm not having to work with a huge sticky paper once I hit it with the adhesive...

Yeah I guessing I have around 300 hours on the saw when I had bearing trouble.. They was worn quite bad.. but I couldn't find just the sleeves and I don't know where to buy parts for it.. as Ray doesn't support the "New" excaliburs.. ( mine is the China made saw )... I got it off craigslist... BUT.. it was still in the box and the box was still banded and taped.. I'd have never bought it if I'd have known they moved production to China.. But I got it before they was even available at the stores etc. and before it was talked about being made in China etc.. Right about the time the King and other brands hit the market is when I got it.. I likely got one of the first China made saws.. I'm planning to sell it soon and looking into buying a Pegas.. had nothing but issues with this saw from the very day I set it up.. The blade chuck was screwed up first thing.. was nice cutting saw though once I got the Pegas chucks.. then everything else went wrong, LOL

I do this too but don't have to do it very often anymore.. because when my printer needed replaced I bought one that can print 11 x 19 inch size.. though I've never found 11 x 19 papers.. have found 11 x 17 and they work well..

Yes, they did this with the #5 blade over a year ago and had many issues with them.. supposedly they went back to the old style.. So now they're trying to fix whats not broke with the number 3's huh... I was just thinking of ordering some.. but maybe I'll be switching back to FD blades... I'm getting kinda tired of being the test pig for their blades.. I had so many issues with those number 5's.. some of them had 2-3 teeth that was just a square block.. no tooth at all, LOL... I did get replacements and they did take care of me.. I'm just getting tired of them changing things up.. Want to improve it.. come out with a different blade for people to try... don't change up existing stuff... and not say anything.. I was breaking blade after blade after blade and changing saw set-up etc etc etc... not knowing they changed the blade.. and the new blade wasn't working.. Sure cut into my production time fussing with a "Test" blade they thought was going to be better.. Pegas has awesome customer service.. and I'm glad they are trying to make a better blade etc etc.. BUT... They could go about it better.. and maybe do some testing on their own before releasing a new blade to the end user without saying a word.. That right there could make me become a previous customer rather than an existing one..

I'm not really sure what saw you're using.. But I found Ray at Seyco was way cheaper then eReplacement parts was for those Thumb / Set screw kits.. I was using a DeWalt.. But the screws for the Excalibur are the same.. NOTE: if it's still the same way.. a "KIT" replaces both upper and lower.. funny but I didn't know that and wanted to replace both plus have a extra set on hand.. lest just say I on't need to order any for a very long time..LOL

DeWalts are good saws.. I had a type 2 that I bought new.. Ran it hard production cutting for 10 years.. I never had a problem with it other than the normal bearing replacement every 1 - 1.5 years.. The issue I had with that is cost.. to do a complete rebuild is around $200 for new bearings and sleeves.. I also had the power switch issue.. put in a new switch and then cut up a latex glove and used the glove to cover the switch with some tape to hold it.. at that same time I also added a foot switch.. that never gave another issue in the remaining 9 years.. LOL I went with a Hawk scroll saw and bought a new Excalibur.. never an issue with the Hawk so far.. but the Excalibur give me the same bearing issue.. I installed hour meters on the saws.. I go around 300 hours run time on the EX before needed bearings.. ( that's an estimated guess because I didn't run a hour meter on it from day one of setting it up.. ) Good luck with your new saw.. You sound a bit like me.. half the fun is tinkering with them. rebuilding them etc.. I rebuild many very low end saws over the years.. and rescued a few out of the scrap recycler places..

If that doesn't work you'll probably have to buy a new nut and shaft for it.. Ray at Seyco stocks them.. He said the threads get worn over time.. and eventually gets loose.. Loc-tite will help tighten things up but eventually it'll need it again and or just replace it..

King is a good saw.. it's made by the same company that makes the Pegas and the ( older ) excaliburs.. it's basically a re- bagged excalibur.. I believe the 16" Excalibur i also the same saw.. but the 21" saw they move production to China and they have been a lot of trouble going on with the china made saw.. I'm with RJ though.. if you can swing the extra cost of the 21" I'd go with a Pegas..

I use the port provided on my excalibur with my shop vac.. and it gets everything below the saw.. however I do get some dust from my dust blower that blows over to the hose of the shop vac and makes a slight mess there.. I'm thinking about trying to find a Y pipe where I could add some above table suction.. You system looks like it'd work well too.. but I wonder if you also get some of the above the table dust still.. Years ago on my DeWalt I just used a cardoard box and cut one en of it so it'd fit under the saw / blade.. that caught everything from landing on the floor and my lap.. LOL

Agree with the spray cans.. I often thought about using my spray equipment to try shellac as well as the water based poly.. in fact.. I bought a quart of both of them at one time and never did try it.. mostly didn't want to damage my expensive auto shop spray equipment.. while it is rebuildable but I just didn't want to have to fuss with it.. been meaning to get a cheaper gun just to mess with.. BUT... honestly I've been quite satisfied with the Danish oil so why bother.. It has a small amount of poly already in it.. Also JT is right about the gloss spray.. and I believe that is where I went wrong years ago.. I have since switch to satin for everything that I do coat with a top coat which is only portraits and I do very little of them since they are not a very big seller for me.. JT your work and finishes always are top notch.. wonderful job on that.. I have used BLO and top coated with satin lacquer a year or two back per a topic you had posted to with your suggestion so I tried it.. I do like the look of it.. But it's not very economical for me to do this.. I may be wrong as it does look nice.. I'm just not sure the addition of price to my pieces for the extra steps, materials, and time would be worth the effort.. also with selling online and taking orders as I do.. this would add to my turnaround times.. People now days are willing to sacrifice quality with time and money and the way I run things seems to be working.. When I slow back down to just hobby status in a couple years I may start doing the stuff in this way like you do....

I stay away from spray finishes on fretwork typically because I feel no matter how hard you try.. you can never get a good even coat of spray in / on all the fret cutouts.. I've used shellac when I first started scrolling and it does dry pretty quick.. but as I've said.. it's tough to get in all the cutouts without over spraying too much on the surface.. Another that dries quick is the water based poly.. ( stuff in the blue can ).. again though.. tough to get a good even coat throughout the whole piece.. This is why I prefer finishes that can be "Dipped" and air dried.. Maybe I'm just too picky about getting even coats.. being a auto paint guy for several years.. makes me see paint imperfections from a mile away.. I can look at a car that the color matches perfect.. but the texture of the paint laid out from one panel to the next I can spot out and say.. that panel has been repaired... Dealerships hate me when car shopping, LOL.. I won't buy something that has been repaired.. This day and age.. it's hard to find something in the used car line-up that hasn't had some sort of repair job done to it..

Larry makes a very good point... This is what started my whole deal of the mineral oil and beeswax mix.. and it does work very well.. I have pieces that I made 4 years ago sitting here in my house that look as good as they did when I first made them.. But.. I do use it less and less all the time as I "feel" Danish oil is a better choice... so I use it when at all possible.. and the mix I make is time consuming to apply.. The mineral oil and beeswax often needs re-applied on cooking utensils because they get handled, used, and washed all the time.. and with each wash you wash some of the oil / wax away..

Here in the colder climate.. If I put mineral oil and even Danish oil on in the cold.. even after a week out there in the cooler temps.. if I bring it in the house it will all of a sudden start oozzzing out the oils as the wood warms up.. so many things in the colder weather do not completely dry out good.. I started letting the stuff air out good out there and then bring it inside for about 3-5 days before putting it in the inventory..

Just curious... BUT what advantage does using mineral oil have over Danish oil for puzzles?? I tried mineral oil once... I can't stand the stuff used alone on the puzzles.. I don't mind it mixed with the beeswax as I make.. but just plain mineral oil is a very poor idea in my opinion as it never really gets dried out.. Do you all thin the mineral oil in some way? it seemed to take forever to get dried out enough where I felt it could be shrink wrapped and inventoried.. Danish oil is usually dried out enough after a day to handle the puzzle.. but I do wait until there is no strong smell to it before shrink wrapping them.. and the time varies dependent on the humidity and temps.. but normally a couple days.. but has been as long as a week too.. I've had the plain mineral oil sort of bleed out of the wood even two weeks after applying.. I don't sell those puzzles as toys and even put in the shrink wrap bag a warning that it's not for small children... so I see no real reason to use the mineral oil and last I knew.. all finishes in the USA was child safe once fully cured.. I'm guessing after setting a week or so ( until the smell is gone ) then packaging it.. sitting in inventory for even a week.. mine usually set for a few months before I actually get to sell them anyway. I'm talking about the animal puzzles like Iggy does.. I know there are other puzzles more designed for kids.. Those maybe the mineral oil would be best..

I bet you probably don't remember what you paid for that first Hawk (new?).. My take on their saws is that they are cheap priced for what you get.. Back in 1998 that Hawk Ultra receipt says $1500... same price my new BM-26 cost last year.. Many things improved on the new saw.. A20 inch Hawk is only $1200 so size comparison to a EX etc .. and much better quality.. My first DW788 with stand and light was $349 back in 2008.. That set up now runs nearly $600 and they cheapened it up.. You buy a new Pegas or EX type saw in the 20" version and pay nearly $800 - 900 ish? and it last for a production guy like me.. Maybe 4-6 years and then it's ready for a set of bearings etc for a $200 ish repair bill.. while the Hawk still needs nothing but a few drops of oil.. IF I do need a bearing.. it's only 4 bearings in the whole saw.. and maybe $25 in parts that I can run the the local hardware to pick up.. 30 minutes to change them out.. not one hour to take it apart and then chase down bearings and sleeves online and then pressing out / in the 20 bearings etc.. I'm not saying the EX types are not a good saw... I'm just saying they aren't built to do production type stuff like a Hawk and Hegner is..

I don't think I'd buy another new saw from them.. But since I already have them.. LOL I'll run my saws until I need a part that I can't get then either decide if it's worth the effort to have the part made or just scrap it.. I should be able to get a minimum of 5 years out of each of my 3 Hawks doing production cutting... and probably a lot more than that... since most everything one needs for these is available at a hardware store.. and some of the parts could be made without a machine shop.. The parts that one would "have to" get from Hawk are not very high wear parts.. so one will last a long long time.. I have two saws that was new.. and one very well used which I have pretty much rebuilt.. I most likely won't ever need another saw.. but I like to "play" with other tools so I'll be buying more saws just because of that.. IF the parts sources for the EX was to go extinct .. not too many pieces one could just go get at a hardware store etc... so I think this is why us Hawk owners aren't all flipped out about getting rid of our saws because of parts sources etc.. It'd be a shame if Hawk closed up.. etc.. but for me.. I've got a lot of years of life left in my saws.. I'm not worried about it.. they've already paid for themselves.. There is many other bands out there to buy and use.. I also have 5 saws total.. so if I have to wait on parts.. not a big deal... Not the case for everyone.. and if Hawk runs themselves out of business so be it.. I'll move onto other saws.. Not the end of the world, LOL There is 30 and 40 year old Hawks out there running yet today... and parts are " somewhat " still available... When someone sees one of the very early EX saws.. first thing I read is.. stay away as parts aren't available.. you don't see many of them for sale so used parts sources are pretty dried up..

Yes I know that McMaster-carr has those.. I was just going to replace them from Hawk since I'm placing an order for other parts.. I have bought some local at a hardware store already.. as well as the whole piece.

My blade holders don't have a roll pin.. they are solid.. ( I think.. I'll look closer at them but pretty sure they're solid ) so maybe they changed that way back when because of issues.. and my saw was still sealed in the original box so it's not like someone changed it out before I bought the saw.. I've been meaning to look at the receipt that was in the box and see if they ordered extra clamps or if Hawk actually gave you several with the purchase of the saw.. The back wedge on mine "looked" good from the sides.. but the sides actually hang over ( wider than the arm ) the arm and the wear was actually seen once I took the mechanism apart then seen the outer portion of the wedge was the original shape.. the inner part was worn a good 1/32+ inch and rounded over off to one side.. I had problems with blades breaking with that old saw... If that gets worn enough it wont hold proper tension.. For what it's worth.. I took a number punch set and punched 3 and 5 on the bottom of some of my clamps.. Since I typically use number 3 and 5 the most.. If I pre-load a bunch of them and then walk out of the shop for a few days.. I can just look on the clamp to see what blade is in the clamp. I can tell the difference from FD - Pegas and I only use the FD spiral in a 2/0 size so that's easy for me to know what the blade is.. LOL Edit: Well I just looked and my Ultra saw does have the roll pins but the new saw has solid pins..

LOL, Yeah I know it's still almost brand new.. I put 100 hours on it.. then stopped using it.. I haven't ran that saw since August. 2019.. because they was real generous with the blade clamps when they sent the new saw.. It came a blade installed and no extra clamps.. I don't know if that is how the old RBI company worked too or not.. But I like to pre-load 5 or more blades.. So I want to order a few of those for the new saw.. Then I plan to order some thumb screws for the ultra.. I know I can source those from somewhere else.. in fact I did but the "wing" portion was too big... Not a huge deal either but thought since I want to order the extra holders for the BM-26 I might as well order some of those.. I have about 12 lower blade holders for the Ultra.. but only half have thumb screws.. and of the half the plastic "wing" is cracked.. they was that way when I un-boxed that saw.. apparently just cracked like that from being old plastic from 1998 On the old 220VS I want to try a new wedge as the one that was on the saw was quite worn when I got it... I just sanded it down to a point and it's worked fine for a while.. I might send the arms in to have them machine them for the upgraded inserts for the wedge..

Well?? did they charge your card again? Just curious.. I'm going to be placing an order soon with them... that is... if I can get through on the phone, LOL

I may be wrong but I don't think they require any grease.. the original wore out quicker without some lube as the design created friction between two nylon or plastic parts.. but the Pegas has a metal cam action incorporated into the design and I think the cam and parts are available separately.. and also made with self lubricating metals.. I'm pretty sure I was told by Bob Duncan or someone that no lubrication was required and in fact if lubed. could actually weaken the plastic lever etc..

I don't know how foam density varies compared to plastic.. but I used to work at a plastic injection molding factory ( made plastic shopping cart baskets and handheld baskets for stores ) and the density of the plastic would vary quite a lot.. only based on the color resin we used.. That was 25 years ago and I can't remember what colors was more dense over other colors.. I do know that the plastic with age would crack and break sooner than the softer plastic would... So anyway.. maybe you need to look for the same colors as the flex drum offers, LOL

Usually Zebra wood darkens up quite a lot once it has been in some Danish oil... This looks good.. but I also agree with JT and others.. I do a lot of different wood types with Walnut backers... in fast most are birch ply with walnut... but I've also done a fair amount with Maple, Red Oak, and Cherry... cherry doesn't look as good though... not enough contrast.. Here is a clock made from 1/8 BBply wiith walnut backer... as I said.. I don't like painting wood.. so I use natural wood colors to accent..

I like them all, LOL But can you do a fire sky sunset purple, Over the years of doing different color backers on portraits.. I found that Black almost always wins.. I also had many customers asking for colors I didn't have.. I'm not a big fanatic of keeping hundreds of colors of paint on hand to offer and add to the confusion.. I told my wife a while back that I'm about done with the colors and will offer only Black.. Keeps it simple.. There are a couple of signs etc that I may offer pink or blue for boy or girls room etc.. things like that.. but the rest will most likely be black... I was doing the car portraits different colors.. I got people saying... well... my car is hugger orange or plumb crazy purple can you do the actual car colors.. LOL... That would get kinda annoying to me.. and to get those colors most times would mean buying actual car paints.. ( not cheap )... that's the biggest reason I'm going back to black. This may not matter to you if you're not a seller.. and or just making unique art... but it's so much easier to keep things simple... especially with online selling.. as then you gotta take photos of each color etc etc.. Just not very productive to offer all sorts of options... most times it confuses the customer