kmmcrafts

I also got a new stool for Christmas... Has much more padding.. Problem now is it's too comfy and could take a nap, LOL

Mike passed away some years ago.. I don't remember now how long ago it was.. but pretty sure it's been more than a couple years ago.. His website is still up and running and I think it was BearWoods that took over the business / site? I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong on that.. They still have good service as far as I know.. but it's not like the personalized service you got from Mike I don't think..

Yeah I've also done that.. But this one isn't worth the effort really.. Maybe it's just me because I want one that lights up.. all the letters etc on this one has worn off.. and well.. I'm used to it I guess.. but when I'm tired before coffee etc.. I get my fingers in the wrong spots make up new words.. both on the screen and coming out my mouth, ..

Gotta say, I hate my keyboard.. It's a wireless thing that has quiet buttons but you almost have to hit them with a hammer to get them to work.. Was wonderful when new.. but didn't take long to mess up.. and I swear it sometimes chooses the letter next to the one I actually hit.. At least that's my excuse, LOL and my keys are sticking too it too. LOL... One day I hit the space bar and it did a whole page of spaces before I could get it unstuck.. Guess I should have asked santa for a new one..

Yeah, after sanding some and getting them crooked some years ago I did the sanding jig thing.. It's the only way to do it.. Just be careful to also start threading it into the wood straight.. as the wood is soft and you make the threads by turning it in straight.. The ideal thing to do is to make a metal plate with threads.. but this works fine as long as you're careful to get it started straight.. I think I originally seen this tip on Steve Goods blog.. I rarely have to dress the screws and most probably wouldn't have to do it.. Since I work on cars a lot I always keep cans of brake clean around.. I typically remove the screws and spray paper towel, wipe them down good then add a drop of 3-N-1 oil to the threads so they thread smooth into the clamps.. Make sure you don't get the oil on the tips, LOL.. Dirty threads will make you think you're clamping down hard on the blade.. but you threads are actually binding with grime in them.. I keep them running good and smooth.. Run my DeWalt for 10+ years production cutting with the original clamps and screws only dress them about 3 times.. Also.. I never have cleaned off the blades themselves or sanded them etc.. I just clean up the screws about every couple weeks.. Caution doing the brake clean though.. it will melt the little O-ring on the screws tips if you have the rotating tips like the EX and Dewalt saws have.. also hard on the plastic portion of the handle.. I always spray on a paper towel and then wipe the tips down and then the threads after it started to dry up.. rather than spraying the actual thumb screw and soaking the whole thing.. Has worked well for me doing this.. hardly ever dress out the screws like I used to do..

A heat lamp will warm up the saw table fairly well

Saw prices are all over the place depending on location. I’ve been watching the Hefner’s for a couple years now and a saw like yours in my area are listed from $300 - 500 with an occasional one now and then for $250 . I’ve never seen one listed below $250

You may need to rough up the ends of the thumb and set screw or at least give them a good cleaning. Sometimes they get a oil residual from the blades. All blades have a fine coating of oil on them to prevent rust. This can build up on the clamping surface of the screws.

Not to make fun of anyone but pallet wood is not a wood type. I used to build pallets as a teenager for my first real job. The wood can be all sorts of types. Some pallets that come from other countries have seen blood wood and other exotic woods. I had a hard time believing it until I seen a stack of them. I used some old pallets about 4 times for various projects but stopped because the boards were mostly rough cut wood and dirty so running them through the planer seems to dull the knives way faster than using clean unused wood. I make puzzles out of poplar as others have said but also from other hard wood too. More for me about what fits the project at hand.

There was a china knock off of that system on eBay last year that same set up was about $25.. My brother got a couple of them for his sandblasting cabinet.. I should have grabbed a few of them as they seem to not sell them no more... Probably got into some trouble on them.. sure kick myself for not getting one.... The system i got sure seems to work well.. my complaint is the larger footprint size.. It's almost the diameter of the larger shop vac canister.. probably could fit two of the 5 gallon pails in the spot this takes up.. I may toy around with making something with a small bucket and use this bigger one for my CNC.. It'll easily fit under the table of the CNC

You know.. I remembered (I think) Les had posted a topic about that thing.. then I forgot all about it and bought this set up.. I do like it.. But as i said.. I was hoping to set it under the saw stand.. Thinking since the one I bought is a bigger unit that I might hook this one up to my CNC and maybe I'll go pick up a couple of these other small ones for the saws.. Maybe I should just order it online.. The closest HD is like 45 ish miles away.. For the time being.. I'm going to use the set-up I bought and see how it goes before I spend more $$ on a different set up.. I wish I had remembered about the thing at HD because this unit was $100 and it's not really anything fancy.. short of having caster wheels, LOL.. Either way.. I've been wanting one of these separators for a long time.. Tired of buying bags for my Vac.. I just happen to be at the wrong place at the wrong time and an impulse buy.. LOL..

Hard to tell in the picture but I don't see a blade tensioner on it? Is it missing blade clamps or something or just the angle of the photo.. Unless I was about to get it for like $50 or less.. I think I'd pass unless it proves to be all there and in working order... there is too many deals on scroll saws in my area to pay very much for a real old saw like that one.. JMO

I googled it just to see how best to describe it.. But the meaning it says is totally different than what my thought of it was.. so maybe all these years of saying I do mostly fretwork has been wrong? Because I always thought it was work that had inside cuts.. or drilled holes to do inside cuts.. I always considered anything was fretwork even if it only had one inside cutout.. while many are more than one.. some are hundreds or even thousands maybe.. but a inside cut is a inside cut in my book whether it's one or ?? This is what Wikipedia said though Fretwork - Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Fretwork Fretwork is an interlaced decorative design that is either carved in low relief on a solid background, or cut out with a fretsaw, coping saw, jigsaw or scroll saw. Most fretwork patterns are geometric in design. The materials most commonly used are wood and metal.

Was at the local workbench store today and almost picked up a dust cap thing that goes onto a 5 gallon bucket.. but the piece had no connectors or anything.. the price was $23.. I have a bucket so didn't need that as the bucket was $8.. I bought a few a while back from Walmart for $2.50 for the coolant for the CNC and the Laser.. Then I started looking at all the connectors and hose I'd need to actually make use of it.. before I knew it I was looking at nearly $75 and still didn't have all the pieces I needed.. I put everything back and decided forget it I'll figure out something else.. turned around and there sit a Dust Right kit.. supposedly come with all the connectors and hose etc.. $100 bought it and when I go home to put it together I find that while I did manage to get it hooked up.. but I need a hose more than 36".. LOL so.. either way I guess I was going to have to spend a little more.. at least I got to use this setup without having to chase down and or order connectors since the workbench was barely stocked with anything except waste gates and clamps was about the only thing they had a selection of on hand, LOL What little I had time to use it, I like it very much.. I was kinda hoping the dust can would be small enough to fit under the saw stand.. but that was a no.. Probably should have just got the $23 Bucket top and made my own set up.. as of lately I just have not been very interested in hunting down pieces and parts.. eats up a day in a hurry researching and finding pieces that will work.. that's about the only downfall to living in the boonies.. 1/2 drive just to get into town.. and all the good places I'd have to go are on the far side of town.. I do like the wheels on it.. and I think I'll really like it once I get a longer hose hooked up to it so i have use it more places.. Here is what I got.. Not from Rockler ... but at a local place.. Over all I think I'll be glad to not have to buy so many shop vac bags.. should pay for itself in 20-30 years I suppose https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-dust-separator

Looks good like that... just take a torch and do the rest of the piece to match, lol

Thank you for leading me to the design, I figured someone here would know.. Actually I know I've seen it before.. and it probably is in my stack of those magazines, LOL

Seems like I've seen this before somewhere... I have a customer asking if I can duplicate it... said she's looked for the original designer and she cannot locate them.. so asked if I could make one.. Any idea where it's from?

I've never had this problem with my Aluminum tables of my Hawk saws.. But I do wax them often.. Maybe that is why? But I did have a similar issue with my DeWalt which had a steel table.. I never really figured out where the stuff was coming from.. maybe wood sap? I always kept the table waxed good on it too so not sure why it did it.. As others have said.. a good cleaning and a fresh coat of wax.. and the issue went away on the DeWalt... but.. I had to do it quite often.. maybe every 10 days or so... otherwise it'd come back.. finally took time to clean it really well.. I ended up using brake cleaner from the parts store.. several shots of it and scrubbing the table top revealed I had something on the table.. not sure what it was... maybe wax build up, LOL.. no idea what.. but a good cleaning and waxing and finally the issue was permanently gone... So I believe the good cleaning part is a must.. Careful if you use the brake cleaner.. it will eat off paint and melt plastic stuff.. I suggest spraying it into a paper towel and then wiping down the table rather than spraying the table and having the over spray getting on the saw body or other parts... Mineral spirits may be all that's needed.. I used brake clean as that was all I had on hand.. rubbing alcohol wouldn't touch it.. which is the other thing I had and tried.. Something else that works well to remove grime is WD-40.. but I'm not too sure about the use of that with a woodworking tool.. may affect the finish of wood etc ? Best of luck with it..

When I first got my ceiling hanging filtration system I was wondering if the thing even worked... filter never really got dirty like the box fan filter did.. over time ( running both ) I do see the filter get dirty.. but the majority of the dust is in fact collected at the box fan rather than this ceiling unit.. As for quality of the air in the shop after filtration.. A LOT will depend on the quality of the filter you use on the box fan.. not all filters are created equal.. The guy doing the video appears to be using a very high end filter.. Not sure how much those cost with the charcoal etc.. I use a high quality for allergy use type filters on my box fan.. they aren't really all that cheap compared to some other knock offs... But I've used both and have been impressed with the difference in how much is being collected onto the filter.. For me.. I'm not looking for such a quality of air in my shop as to ditch the dust mask I use.. I'll always use the mask.. For me it's about catching all that floating dust from covering my tool box and all my tools and the old truck I store in the other bay.. Yes I use a truck cover.. but still hate all the settled dust no matter how you look at it.. Using the box fan and the filtration system has significantly reduced the dust in my shop as a whole.. and that is why I use the box fan.. I'm thinking about adding another couple box fans.. Again, collecting that dust at the source for that short period of time that I had my shop vac hooked up to the dust port on the Excalibur really amazed me.. I just want to get a "quality " vac system that runs quiet.. and... is designed to turn on / off with the tool.. I might add this bit to the first paragraph.. That hanging filter gets dirty quite fast IF I do not turn on the box fan.. To do over again.. I might have been better off just getting a second fan..

Thought you puzzle makers would like this news story.. I seen this years ago and just ran across it again so thought I'd share..

While this would probably last a hobby scroller a good 5 years or more I buy my full sheet labels from eBay.. I buy 1000 sheets at a time.. and typically that will last me about a year ish.. but if you can absorb the steeper up front cost.. the higher quantity you buy the cheaper it gets.. I used to use these for my shipping labels too.. but now I bought an actual label maker that's thermal printed rather than using a crap load of ink.. so the full sheet labels are for patterns only now.. Still keep a can of adhesive around for those larger patterns that require more than the 8.5 x 11 paper.. actually I found a source for the 11 x 17 label papers.. but have yet to order any.. now I probably can't find the site again.. Staples couldn't get me any.. When going to eBay to grab you the link.. I noticed they jumped the price up since I bought it... I paid $52 just a few weeks back.. Might look around for a better deal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Edit to add... See just shopping around and found it cheaper.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Sheets-Laser-Inkjet-8-5x11-FULL-Shipping-Mailing-Labels-USPS-UPS-Fedex-FBA/183324507232?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40719%26meid%3Dd6bac0ebd0e34b4796d5e2f5d29d7a42%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D254057132996%26itm%3D183324507232%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I have both a fan with filter and a Grizzly ( Like the Wen ) that hangs from the ceiling..and this is my take on it... After using the dust port on my Excalibur for a few days of production cutting.. I think a small dust collection at the saw is important.. While as was mentioned.. the dust does just fall to the floor... BUT.. any time you move around you stir up that fine dust.. I was amazed at how much cleaner the shop air was just by hooking up the shop vac to that dust port.. Also not as big an issue with the Hawk saw. because the majority of the dust falls into the saws stand.. so it doesn't stir about as much as it does on say the DeWalt and EX type saw. where ALL the dust falls to your lap and on the floor.. Once in your lap.. you carry that dust with you inside the house / car and where ever else you may go.. Thus.. you need to wear a mask all day and even when you do the laundry.. as any time you move those cloths you can see that fine dust stir up.. IF you look through a light or the sun light just right... you'll see it for sure.. so if using one of those type saws... My vote would be for some kind of dust collection at the source before it gets stirred up where ever you go.. Ideal would be all of those suggested.. but I get a lot of dust caught in my box fan and the hanging filtration system.. My next step is at the source.. personally I think I went about it backwards after using that dust port on the EX.. Just I can't stand the noise of the shop vac..

I've seen Steve's review quite some time ago.. I may go back and re-watch it again.. as I've had quite an interest in this compact system that would attach right to the saw stand etc.. Since you say you have one, What is your thought of it? I'm thinking of buying one in the next few days.. The disadvantage to me on this system is I'd need a few of them unless they are easily swapped from one saw to the next.. which is why I've had a Festool or Fein in mind and build my own piping.. The price of the Seyco is a lot less if only buying one.. but... would it be easily moved from saw to saw?

Ray, that's a really beautiful piece.. I like the contrast between the two types of wood.. what wood is it? looks maybe like Walnut and Cherry or Cedar I wish you'd show more of your work.. maybe you do as I don't typically go look in the Bragging section very often so I may have missed your postings if you have posted there.. Thanks for showing your projects..

I buy it by the gallon.. here a gallon cost me $23.. and as Scott said.. just pour some into a container and dip the projects then pour the leftovers back into the original container.. I do let them soak for about 10 minutes.. then I take them out and wipe off excess and let air dry.. A gallon will probably do the 1500 ornaments you make...