kmmcrafts

Wouldn't the clock still be in the ball?

Thank you all for the nice comments.. I hope that someone sometime will be able to make use of the pattern..

That's what I was thinking ( I think ) You mean to use a cue as sort of a stand? between the base and the pool ball? I almost mentioned that yesterday..

Yes Inlay!! Nice work I love to do this type of work and hope to get more of a chance to do more of it sometime soon.. I've only toyed with inlay so far.. done a couple of pieces.. but nothing to write home about yet. LOL I agree with Ray.. Never had any issue with the angle going back to 0 on the DeWalt.. Hawks is another story though.. I wouldn't recommend switching angles very often on one..

Always like to see the tissue boxes you make.. Top notch work!! Like them all Thanks for showing them..

As many of you know I've added hour meters to my saws.. and I've had my new Hawk BM26 for a few months now.. I thought I'd share some thoughts on the Older Ultra and the New BM26 I love the saw.. and have been enjoying using it. Took quite a lot of tweaking and whatnot to get it set up and running as good as it can.. My guess is.. right around 20 hours on the meter before I really started getting the saw tuned and me getting use to it. I'm just shy of 50 (48) hours on the meter now. The saw seems to be really smooth running with virtually almost zero vibration from about 5/8 of the way up on the dial to full speed.. super smooth.. however about anything below that speed seems to be a little shaky and one spot between about 3/8 - 1/2 is quite shaky to the point I just don't go there with it.. I do think some weight would sturdy it up some more but I'm just talking saw itself since I don't feel people should have to go to those lengths to get a saw smooth running.. I've played around a bit with the blade forward / back adjustments and really don't see a huge improvement in cutting other than the quality of the cutting if doing stack cutting or cutting thick stock will make the piece act as though your table isn't square.. There is a mark on the machine to see a visual of where your at with the aggression setting.. I assume it came set up as close to straight up / down as possible and I run it about 1/8" back farther than that set up.. Something I do not like is.. this piece that moves the lower blade holder is adjustable by just turning a screw in the center of the lower chuck.. and it ( in my opinion ) could be a problem down the road with blade alignment.. I've had this thing work its way forward and almost make the blade chuck fall off.. so it's something that you have to keep an eye on.. I may end up putting a little blue loc-tite on it then set it where I like it.. I'll probably call Hawk about this so they have a heads up.. and maybe make a fix for it or keep a better eye on this area for tolerances.. If that thing runs when the thing is all the way at the end of the threads it could bugger up the threads both on the chuck and the screw / bolt and possibly wallow out the threaded hole . I know Loc-tite will take care of my issue in this.. however calling Hawk so they are aware of it is a must and maybe they will send out some new parts.. who knows.. Now onto the saw vrs the other saws.. While I think the new saw is a pretty darn good saw.. I don't think it's as solid / robust machine that the older Ultra saw is.. Not that the new saw isn't worth the money in my opinion.. the older saw seems to be smoother in a wider range on the speed dial than the new saw.. Both cut real nice.. pretty much the same.. I'm not a top feeder so I actually prefer the blade to be back behind the angle mechanism simply because with the blade out front the sawdust drops in your lap just like a DeWalt or EX does.. something I never got with the older two Hawk saws.. Something very different with the new Hawk is.. you hit the foot switch and the saw is BAM.. up to speed... ( Older Hawks have sort of a soft start where it gradually ramps up to speed ) It's not a bad thing I guess.. at first I was having blade wobble issues with that instant on.. but found my blades just wasn't really tight enough.. I'll say any model of the Hawk saw is fussy with blade tension compared to a DeWalt or EX.. however once set up they are good.. same tension all the time every time.. Would I buy the saw again if i could do over? Nope. Not because of anything with the saw itself or the company.. but more about the fact that there are a ton of good used Hawk Ultra and later model G4 type Hawks out there on the market.. save yourself some money and buy a quality used one.. since if I was blindfolded and cutting on the new or old saw.. I'd probably not notice much difference.. at least not for the money difference.. LOL Is the Hawk saw price worth the extra $$ over a EX type saw.. Really more of an opinion and everyone would have a different opinion / answer to that question.. For me.. Yes IF.. primarily cutting thin stock doing detail fretwork.. Not so much so if cutting 3/4" thick plus stock on a regular basis.. I like having the option to have both the Ex and the Hawk.. If I'm making puzzles or other thick stock.. i like the EX better.. My clocks and other things I make I mostly cut 1/2 - 5/8 stock and i primarily use the Hawks.. Once in a while I use the EX to change things up.. If I could only have one saw... wow that's be a tough call really.. I like both saws very much and could probably get used to using just one.. in that case.. I might have to save the extra money and go with the EX type saw.. most likely a Pegas actually.. LOL I've gotta say since I put the hour meters on the saws.. I find that in a 6-8 hour day in the shop.. I'm only getting 4-5 hours cutting time on the meters on a good day, LOL.. Doing fretwork with having the saw run short times between frets.. LOL that time is short but sure does effect the actual run time quite a lot..

My best advice... Use a different saw On a more serious note.. Hawk scroll saws are slower less aggressive cutting machines.. Any time I'm cutting anything 3/4" + thick stock.. I go to the Excalibur or DeWalt.. this is about the only time those saws really shine better for me, LOL Sorry I don't have any advice on blades.. I rarely cut anything more than 5/8 and if I do.. as I said above.. I use one of those other saws, LOL

I'd heard they was only going to be open on certain days.. but there was another topic about this saying what was happening and new hours.. this was back around April.... Maybe they shut down if she is not doing good etc..

Probably not a bad price for someone that has to mail order.. I buy 10-20 sheets at a time so the savings for me is better to drive the 25-30 minute drive and sort through my own sheets.. My price per sheet is $12 for 5x5x 1/8 and I think it's $13 for 1/4..

Never liked the skip tooth blades myself.. I will say that the Pegas blades do seem like they run a tad smaller in size than FD blades from what I've seen.. But I only used the FD Ultra Reverse and the Pegas MG so cannot really comment on the types you mentioned.. Wouldn't hurt to order a sample and see if they are something you like..

I've never bought plywood from DND.. didn't know they sold plywood etc.. I will say bought several times from them for blades and drill bits.. Those small drill bits have been the best I've found..and they come in little plastic tubes so you can store them like you do blades.. Anyway.. their service has always been top notch for me.. If I placed an order today it's be in my mail in two says usually.. Wish I could say about he plywood quality.. But I cannot.. I will say many times it's more about the pallets of ply they get in.. My local source for BB Ply said many times the good one side is as good as the two side stuff.. and they have had blemished stuff that was supposed to be good two sides.. as if they mix in a few bad from time to time. Might have just been end of shift or a switch over at the factory... I typically buy the cheaper one and do my own sorting.. I have to say if you specifically buy good two sides then that is what you should get.. since most times the good one side is as good as the good two sides.. Does the plywood they sell say good two sides? I'd give them a call or email and ask what the quality of the ply is.. They may specifically look for good two side if you request it.. they seem to be a quality company with awesome customer service..

I knew there was a topic about this a while back.. and I know there is another topic with a blue color one as well but I stopped searching once I run across this one.

Well I do know there are in fact blue Hawks as well as Green.. I've seen them myself.. and no they were not a repainted restore.. In fact.. Hawk did sell under another name too.. Most of these was sent to other countries but there are a few I've run up on.. I wish I had saved the pictures I had of one that I looked at last year.. I hadn't heard of this Glendo made one and it's so similar that I had to ask.. if anyone else knew anything about them..

This isn't the first time I've seen this style table on what looks like a Hawk saw.. in fact.. I just seen another one tonight that was labeled a Hawk 226 with that same style table.. Maybe real early models? Last few photos is the Hawk I seen.. Links are to the ads in case any are interested.. https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/d/emporia-tradehigh-end-scroll-saw-usa/6899078359.html https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/d/clinton-hawk-precision-scroll-saw/6902218178.html

I almost always do the clean-up every day too.. I use to be for sure every day cleaning up the saw and around the saw etc etc.. but lately I've been slacking on that part.. it's been every few days anyway but I've also been really busy with orders so they've had me running.. Mostly because my brother is visiting from NH and I only get to see him about every 5 years.. however his wife passed a couple years ago and they had planed to come that year.. so it's really been about 8 years so.. trying to spend as much time as I could with him and get my orders out.. He is headed back home early in the morning tomorrow which will free up a little time..

I designed this the other day for a friend and then cut a stack of 4 of them.. Pattern in in the new patterns section if anyone wants to cut it.. I cut from 1/8" BBply then used a 1/4" Walnut ply backer.. Cut with a Pegas MG #3

Nice shop and very well organized looking.. doesn't look like you work in it though, LOL.. I've been so busy with doing orders etc.. I feel like I'm walking in snow but it's just sawdust, LOL

I use Freud brand.. maybe a bit more pricey brand? Not sure since I never really priced them.. It's what my local tool supplier carries and they also service them (sharpen ) etc.. I mainly use the 1-3/8 and 2-3/8 and 3 inch ones.. I do have a complete set also of the cheapy set from Menards that goes up to I think 2-3/4 inch.. They do work.. but nothing like the good ones.. I'll use them when / if I have mine sent out for sharpening.. funny thing though.. I've never had to send them out yet.. I'm sure they maybe getting dull.. but nothing like as dull as the new ones in the set, LOL

Ouch.. Sorry to hear this.. My prayers for a quick recovery... and back at making sawdust..

WOW!! That turned out really nice... I have yet tried intarsia.. keep saying I'm going to do it this year and then the year slips by.. LOL About every time I cut a new to me project.. I always find something I'll do different the next time.. so as others have said don't be hard on yourself.. Thanks for showing this project.. Lucky I got to see it.. I don't come to this section very often.. I always seem to gravitate to the general section.. sometimes I forget I post some of my work here then forget to come back to thank the ones that commented on it..

This topic was from 2016... LOL I also see some other old topic being brought back to life.. apparently someone is going through old messages..

Yeah, good ones sure aren't cheap.. I bought a complete set several years ago when my bit I had used for a long time was getting dull. But the new bit in that cheap set was duller then the old one that I thought was getting dull, LOL... Don't waste the money on set's is something I was told when I first started making clocks.. just buy the sizes you need and in a quality brand.. I mainly only use 3 different sizes..

I also use forstner bits.. most of my clocks are the smaller ones but I do use the larger inserts that require a 3" forstner bit..

Any particular type or brand of epoxy.. I was at Walmart today looking and I bought a epoxy that was the only one they had that was self mixing and had a application tube to squeeze the epoxy out and apply.. The package does say translucent yellow.. while some of the others show clear.. but appeared to have to gob a pool of it and mix it with a Popsicle stick.. didn't think it'd be all that easy to apply to some of the smaller areas with those type.. so I got the one and had the little applicators.. Not sure how well it works but I have a piece I'm making for a friend that I'll try it on.. I didn't see the weld-bond stuff that Dave uses.. They did have that E6000 ? but I'm pretty certain I used that one time for something and I wasn't impressed..

Always been my understanding and from what I have seen of disclaimers on CNC pattern files is.. what many of them say is they are licensed to sell but you need to contact the copyright holder to get your license to sell.. As you state JT.. Most of the etsy site could be enough to shut etsy down.. I think most all of us that make project have infringed on some copyrights in some way shape or form.. Some sayings and words are copyright.. such as Faith Hope Love.. It's really hard to know what is and isn't.. I'd be most worried about sports and Disney themed stuff.. Most car stuff isn't bothered either but as I've said.. I maybe just fazing those items out.. or run them till I'm told not too..