kmmcrafts

Yeah I thought everyone did that? Instead of a lucky penny it’s a lucky nickel to keep you from messing up. Sure saved me on yesterday’s project too.

I’m not sure why it looks that way on the camera because it’s not that way in person. Though it’s not super shiny like the older Hawks either. It looks like they ran a jitterbug sander on it to surface it .

The New Hawk BM-26 running with the nickel on the table.. This saw still isn't as smooth running as the older Ultra Hawk.. and I'm not certain it will.. That said.. so far its a decent saw... It might be just me and being used to the older saw.. But I feel the quality of the saw is not what the quality of the older Hawks that most of us all know.. I'm happy with the saw.. but knowing what the saw is and have run about 7 hours on it now.. I do like the more robust feel of the older Ultra better.. But like I said.. Maybe feel that way just because I haven't put 300+ hours on it yet.. Certainly not as smooth as my ultra.. but I also still haven't adjusted the feet on the legs etc yet.. pretty smooth with the nickel on it at full speed so it passed it but barely LOL I tried to get this video onto youtube but it wouldn't load on there for some reason.. so you may not be able to see this as it's a facebook video from my KevsKrafts facebook page

When doing large fretwork type portraits.. I use tally marks sometimes.. most times I don't care.. but I've had a lot of customers ask.. "dang how many holes you have to drill and cut to make that? " Kinda nice to know or at least have a rough idea.. I've been known to just make up a wild number to see the look on their faces too, LOL.. But anyway.. sometimes I use the tally marks and make a mark every either 10 or 20 -25 holes I drill.. I don't drill all the holes at once in those big detailed fret pieces.. otherwise I'll never get up to move around.. sometimes just getting up and walking across the shop to the drill will keep me from getting too stiff just sitting there. LOL

Yeah, sanding a surface to get a nice look is easy to achieve.. sanding the fretwork not so much fun.. I understand what you are saying and just trying to put some info out there for the others.. I have no interest for sanding out the fretwork pieces to get a nice finish in all those cutouts when just applying the wax and mineral oil works wonders on the wood.. Something I haven't mentioned yet is the fact that the beeswax sort of fills in the fine pores of the wood and give it a nice natural sheen that I haven't been able to achieve with any other finish's.. I realize the finish isn't going to be for everyone.. nor is everyone else's finish going to be for me.. Even the Danish oil finish that many use including me.. leaves the fret work parts looking sort of dry or rough looking unless you sand these areas with real fine sand paper then they look much better.. where as the wax as I said sort of smooths out the end grain look.. sure I can sand the outside end grain edges.. and use a 0/2 blade to cut the frets for a smoother finish look and feel.. but the wax does it all for me and is what works for me.. As for paint's on cars.. rough spots and surface defects many times can be corrected with cutting the paint with 1000-3000 grit wet /dry paper using a drop or two of dish soap in the bucket of water.. then after the flaw is sanded out you can go through the different grades of buffing compounds and wool pads to foam pads to achieve a mirror like finish.. The process can be done on some of the wood finishes as well.. but what a job it would be to get this achieved in the fretwork cutouts..

I don't know how long this last.. I have pieces here from 5-8 years ago that still seem to look the same as they always did.. I don't notice any difference with collecting dust from the Danish oil mix that I use. No idea on shelf live.. I've never had any around more than a year before I had to make another batch... I apply with acid brushes.. you can get a glob of it on the brush and cram it into the small fret cutouts.. when the piece is covered I let it set for at least a couple hours.. most times I like to leave it for a day.. IF you have some fret areas that you can't get the brush into you can heat the wax to a liquid and run it into the areas better.. I just glob it into the small cutout then my last process which is heating the piece with a hairdryer to melt the wax mix into all the small areas and wipe off excess with paper towels.. Being in the autobody industry for many years and having decent spray paint skill set.. I've never been satisfied with spray finishes on fretwork.. It's impossible to do a "Good" even coat of spray on the fretwork cutouts and have the flat surface have the same depth of finish.. but I have a trained eye for finishes and evenness of the finish etc and it's actually a peeve of mine with finishes on most anything, LOL The untrained eye as in most of the people will never see this.. but I do and it bugs the crap outta me.. so I do not spray fretwork pieces.. Don't like brushed pieces either cause of the brush marks. even those nice smooth foam brush finishes.. Its the autobody professions fault to corrupt me this way So I finish with Danish oil or this wax mix.. which gives the most natural look in all of the cutouts etc.. https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(1)+Price+<%2410|61880&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sv447GKkW|pcrid|278978017105|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|61880|&pgrid=56296736066&ptaid=aud-446108146723:pla-297147218149&pcid=1458484684&gclid=CjwKCAjwkcblBRB_EiwAFmfyy_vGLDj9sZtCbMty1eA2Rsn2Ul7QOAEXNZyIX91Qt_l5rEkFEnWJHxoCBk4QAvD_BwE

So that's why they are always out of it when I go... I'm usually going there every few weeks.. but I gotta say.. they must miss me terribly.. I haven't been there since my CNC came in and I went to pick it up.. Matt helped me load it up and said see you in a couple weeks.. LOL.. That has been 2 months or better now..My wife has a store she loves to go to up there.. so she's always asking.. got anything you need at Johnson's ... that's my Que that she want to go shopping, The trick to get her to want me to go to Johnson's is.. I told her about my $0.55 a mile tax deduction I get for mileage for business but I have to buy something so I have proof i was there, Please don't ever tell her the truth, LOL... I do get the tax break for miles.. I just don't really have to buy stuff..

I don't really know what the melting temp of the beeswax is.. but my wax was about all melted before I turned off the burner.. right about 130-140. so you'd be pretty safe probably shutting off the burner at 120.. the hot plate I think would retain the heat for a bit after shutting it down.. Many times I've turned it off well before the 150 and if I kept mixing it it'd melt down with the temp.. You can always turn it back on.. if needed..

I've only been in trouble with the wife two times about using the stove and oven.. first time was I had some wheels I just painted and I wanted to "bake" the paint.. oven seemed like a good idea.. however the smell in the house wasn't too pleasing.. this was back in my younger... maybe not so smart days.. and pretty newly married The second time wasn't all that long ago and she actually encouraged me to try it.. I made thermal modified lumber.. Took a 1 x 6 x 18 inch poplar board and put it in the oven on low heat ( around 200 - 250.. and left it in for a couple hours.. the poplar came out looking almost as dark as a lighter shade of Walnut.. works awesome.. just don't do the dumb thing i did and cut it to the exact size ... because who knew it'd shrink more in the oven, LOL I did get the pan at a garage sale that I use.. the cheese grader too.. and the thermometer is new but only specifically used for this.. That all said though.. it all washes off pretty good plus it is food grade mineral oil and natural beeswax so.. most likely not something that'd be harmful.. She has actually used her stove to make it for me during a real busy time a couple years ago.. so she better not say anything to me about making it myself... and yes.. I'd still say " okay sorry dear, yes dear... LOL

Baby oil is nothing more than mineral oil..with the signature baby smell added... IF you like that smell.. As for selling the products with the scent added.. that would probably be a turn off to customers and some people are very sensitive to some smell.. The pellet beeswax seemed to melt much faster than the block type I had been using... The wax does have a nice smell to it.. This wax has a yellow tint to it and the mix is sort of yellow colored.. I'm wondering what effect this might have on my projects.. as the block wax was a clear color and didn't have as nice a smell to it..but it's all I've used in the past.. This stuff last quite a long time.. that block I bought was a 5lb block that i bought maybe 5-6 years ago.. I normally make this about 2-3 times a year now.. when i first started was only about once a year or close to that.. I'll try to do another short video on how I apply it and the process of heating it to melt into the wood pores etc.. also the next video will show the consistency of the wax mix after it sets up..

I made this video today to demonstrate how I make my finish since I get asked quite often how I make it.. This should give a good idea.. Now excuse the poor quality video.. first video I've done and I was trying to do everything with one hand.. LOL https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

I didn't see that it was your birthday... I know that feature is on the side to see whose birthday it is.. but I rarely see it.. Anyway.. Happy birthday! Hope you have a great day..

I don't know how much truth in this.. but I read on another site ( laser cutting site ) that the 4 x 8 sheet stuff is made buy a different company and I wanna say it was a USA company that was trying to produce the same stuff and market it under the BB ply name... Guess they wanna get a piece of the pie too, LOL.. anyway.. whoever makes it.. it's not the same stuff as the 5x5 sheet.. from what I've been reading.. not as high quality etc..

I've never seen " real " Baltic Birch ply at the big box stores.. I know people claim they have it and maybe they do.. my local Lowes and like stores do not have it.. and many times people confuse BB plywood with regular plywood... and I'm betting that's what you have.. Even the specialty lumber store I get my BB ply from... depending on the worker pulling the stock for me, they many times get it confused with plain old plywood even though the order says BB ply and also says the oddball size.. because the real deal to my knowledge only comes in 5 x 5 foot squares.. Not 4 x ? which when you say 2 x 4.. that 4 ques me in that you have just birch plywood.. and not the real deal..

So you're saying you need a 10ft. wide flat screen tv hanging behind you running on a monkey peddling a bike that's running the generator, LOL.. On a more serious note.. inverters and batteries have come a long way.. whether that's practical for you is your choice.. I'm just saying people bring saws to do live displays.. the next best thing to that is.. video.. Just my opinion.. In those cases where one wants to "show" how it's made.. it's more practical to handle the light weight big screen TV's of today... and a battery pack than setting up a scroll saw where your attention is on scroll sawing than your customers.. Not to mention the mess the scroll saw might leave behind etc. after the show to clean up etc..

Is there no way at these shows to put up a video of you cutting the puzzles? I just wonder because this day and age with video technology and electronics etc.. seems like a screen with a video of cutting the puzzles out would be self explanatory.. I don't do shows so I don't know.. Maybe it's not possible.. I've read in the past about people bringing saws and setting up to do live demos etc.. While that's cool.. I don't find that as practical as video...

VERY TRUE... I think the photo of the saw might help a little.. but.. then.. many don't have any kind of idea what a scroll saw is a does anyway so even with the picture.. may not make a difference for some folks.. LOL

No I didn't I just glued them up and then also used screws.. I'll be packing them up maybe tomorrow and sending them on their way... they got a long way to go since they're headed to a wedding shop in Hong Kong of all places.. Not cheap shipping but they was willing to pay sooo.. LOL

You mean you didn't at least use the Pegas saw and help promote Pegas? LOL I think the new banner is a better way to go.. you should have used the Pegas saw though, LOL.. but probably more people relate to the DeWalt more..

Far from neat.. maybe a nice work area but very cluttered and dirty... you just can't see the rest of the shop, LOL

The only way to see what was wrong is to have seen and downloaded each pattern update he did.. then look at what he changed between them.. When he updates the error.. he deletes the old download page.. so you'd need to see each download / update.. I should follow him better than I do.. I get his daily email but then many times don't really read them.. while he puts out some great patterns.. most of them don't apply to what I try to make and do so a lot of times I just do a very quick glance at what the design is and delete.. I've got so many to do patterns I'll never get them cut.. then customer request and just keeping inventory now that business is getting busier.. If it's something you've already started cutting on and are worried about messing up because of a design flaw.. maybe send him a email to find out what the changes he made are..?

Well.. as of yesterday morning.. they're cut.. sanded, assembled and waiting to have a finish on them... Not the greatest picture since sun was blasting through the window I couldn't get a good angle and get them all in the photo, LOL

My wife likes Leopards.. so I made her this Leopard for our anniversary a few years ago.. wrote a little love note on the back. hangs in our bedroom.. Then also.. My mother passed away when I was like 10 years old from cancer.. and she collected owls.. anything owl she loved it.. so in memory of her I made these owls.. Before my daughter knew about my mothers liking owls she took a liking to them too.. so I've made these and they hang in our house as well.. The wolf picture is something I made for my daughters 4th grade class..to auction off as a fund raiser to take a class trip to Mackinac Island.. it was the last year the school was taking that trip due to cuts and funding for class trips and without the fund raisers they wasn't going to go.. fortunately they did raise enough to take the trip.. This was a while ago because my daughter is in the second year of college now, LOL

The bearing in the drive arm that connects the motor to the lower arm are sealed bearings.. That said mine the grease was either never there or.. dried up from sitting since 1998 until two years ago when i got it, LOL.. I'm not sure what happen but mine created a vibration and it ended up being the bearings in that piece of flat stock.. I took the big block off the end of the motor as that has a bearing in it too.. however it's a pressed fit bearing that is like a wheel bearing on a car sealed good sized bearing and seemed to spin smooth so i didn't mess with it on mine..

I haven't done anything to the saw but put the legs on it and park it in the parking spot.. then while cutting I notice the front cam lever was squeaking when I put tension or release tension.. so then realize the fine folks at Bushton never lubed the lube points on the saw.. so I started messing with things.. i did have to adjust the set screws in the blade clamps.. both top and bottom was not in far enough and bent the blade that came with the saw.. so I guess that was actually the first thing I did.. Then it was running pretty smooth but not as smooth as my other saws.. since I hadn't really done any kind of leg / foot adjustments I messed with those.. and something happen and made it worst.. so I need to look into it and recheck the feet on the bottom.. I had trouble getting to the back ones to get them tight.. the saw is against the wall and right next to a workbench on one side and the other Hawk right next to it.. so I have to crawl through a maze of saws to get back there to those back legs, LOL.. I just was done messing with it and needed to get my daily quota cut.. so moved to the other Hawk to finish up some work.. Will say that.. I'm just not as impressed with the company.. saw seems great so far.. but no lube on a new saw to a new customer.. If they don't want to lube the thing..they could at least send a sample can of the " special dry tool lube" that they recommend so one would know what to buy.. I had some stuff I bought for the other saws.. but it may be old and not working like it should because I used that and it helped for a few cuts then started squeaking again.. so then I just used a drop of 3 in one oil like is recommended for the old Hawks.. since my can of dry lube was about gone.. maybe it wasn't shook up good enough over the coarse of using it and they only thing left in the can was the liquid part of it, ? don't know.. will get another can though..