kmmcrafts

Yeah... I've been there done that one Ray.. though I did get through my project because it was 3/4 I was working with and as just making a ha radio call sign for my friend.. But I swore I'd never cut that stuff again... but yeah, you guessed it.. I've done it a few more times now for certain custom orders.. but I was being paid well for it sooo.. LOL Gotta say though.. I've done my share of those exotic hard woods that seems like you're cutting steel plate... and the fir cuts nice compared to that stuff.. LOL

I'm thinking you'll love that Pegas.. I'm really starting to like the Excalibur I bought now that I'm finally getting the thing to run right.. Hoping the Pegas runs great for you all that bought them.. and that nobody has any issues like I've had with my Excalibur.. Hoping Pegas has some strict quality control.. Knowing what I know now about the Excalibur saws and the Pegas.. I would have probably went with one of those instead of the Hawk..

My tracking number shows it should be here Thursday.. I'm guessing since I never see them out in my area ( boonies ) until after 2PM it won't be until later in the day..

I guess my question was misunderstood... A customer from my website bought this clock ( photo below ) from me and said they wanted to take the clock insert I put in it out and they plan to replace it with a insert with an alarm.. They was going to put it on a night stand next to their bed and use it for their alarm clock.. Problem is.. they do not make a insert with a 1-3/8" mounting hole.. I was willing to modify my design some... BUT.. I'm not going all out modifying it to make a 2.5" + clock in it so they can have an alarm without adding a to the price.. They was determined to find a clock.. and kept showing me clocks that'd work.. yet they are showing me big clocks.. LOL.. I was asking if anyone knew of a small insert that has a alarm feature.. not a chime.. as that's be waking them up every hour.. LOL I might have finally got through the customers head that not all clocks mount in the same size hole.. Now my issue is they aren't responding to me about whether they still want their order or not.. as I cannot make it as an alarm clock like they wanted... yet they need it by Friday for a anniversary gift, LOL..

Yeah, I've never had much luck with UPS.. or Fedex for that matter.. Shipped a lot of bigger stuff Greyhound really cheap.. without much issue.. Too bad USPS has a limit of 70 pounds.. I know they all have insurance claims but I've shipped a lot with USPS with very little issues.. Now saying that I just jinxed myself, LOL

Yeah, that could be something to do with it.. I did know about adjusting the motor. but I didn't do that until after it was mounted to the stand.. and it does run quite smooth now.. and that could be the tuning or the EX stand or both..

My Excalibur vibrated pretty good out of the box unclamped / or unbolted.. I had a cheap Harbor Freight metal tool stand but the footprint was too small.. I took a piece of leftover 1" flooring from when my loft was built in my shop and bolted that to the stand and then bolted the saw to that.. still more vibration than the DeWalt had unbolted etc.. but was usable that way.. The actual EX stand was much better.. that said though.. I had the EX mounted off center on that HF stand with the flooring on it as I wanted a little sort of side table area.. and I think that was why it still had vibration.. I don't really care for the EX stand because it has a wide stance and also too wide to straddle and it's awkward to sit at.. now where for my legs to go.. suppose the designer may not of had legs, LOL .. I may build me a stand as I cannot get real comfortable sitting for very long at the EX.. ( another reason I haven't used it too much. ) The stand is just a odd height and my stool works well with the Hawks or the DeWalt.. I have a slight tilt on the Hawks toward me.. and the DeWalt which is the most comfortable one to sit at for long periods is tilted as far as it'll tilt.. 4 inch? I think.. I tried tilting the Hawks but doing so creates some vibration.. Hawks ( at least mine ) are very fussy about being level or they vibrate.. I'm not sure how this will work out for you with moving it to a different area.. I have the radio on a shelf behind my Hawk and once in a while either I or one of the kids will bump into the saw trying to get to the radio.. if it gets bumped I know right away.. It's not a huge amount of vibration.. maybe none at all as I only notice it buy it sounding funny.. a little louder than normal.. so I kinda move it as I run it to find it's home again, LOL I think Les moves his around but mounted to the stand but he has wheels on the stand.. he doesn't have much issues from what I gathered from reading a topic about it..

Yes, I bought it from someone that used to work at some store and they raffled the saw off to the employees.. the guy I got it from won it and had no use for it.. the banding strap was still on it so yes sealed.. well until we opened it before I bought it.. making sure I wasn't buying a big rock ... Guess all in all I still got a deal on it.. at $350.. glad I paid for the Pegas updated clamps anyway.. but like I said.. Pretty sure the real culprit was that rod spinning on its own.. took me a bit to figure it all out.. All and all I think I have about $550 in it because I bought a stand and those Pegas clamps.. not the awesome deal I originally thought I was getting though, LOL

I hope you like the Hawk if you get it.. There's lot of people that love them.. but I think about just as many do not like the way they cut.. I hated my Hawk at first if anyone remembers that.. Well I take that back.. I loved they use it.. but I hated that it seemed to cut slower than the deWalt.. But I kept pressing on.. after using it a good amount of hours and finding the right blade It's one of my favorites.. why I bought another.. That said.. The EX I also really like to cut on.. but I'just kept having problems and with those problems there seemed to be quality issues.. I guess I just the only one to have gotten a lemon..

I have to sign.. won't sign until I inspect..

DnD is awesome to deal with... but if they can't get you one.. maybe try QTE.. they are also awesome.. I've had great experience from both on parts and blades.. Not so much for Bear Wood though.. QTE customer service has replaced thumb screws and set screw free of charge for a few people that claim they wore out prematurely.. Not that a thumb screw and set screw is expensive anyway.. the point is.. they seem to care about the customer..

Nicole called me today, My saw will be shipping out later today.. she said usually arrives within 3 days.. Sounds like they've had issues in the past with UPS or their packaging.. she said this batch of saws will be packaged with added padding.. customers have waited long enough... ( you think? LOL ).. She mentioned to open the box and inspect it before signing for it.. make special note of the rear table mount.. apparently this is where the damage always is and the mount gets damaged.. She also said they have been experimenting with different packing methods.. and they really would like to not have to have the customers have to put their saw table on as it's quite a process to get it all aligned but they've been looking into shipping them like that... I told her she could leave the table off if she liked as I've rebuilt many different kinds of saws including the older Hawk.. and I don't have an issue mounting the table and tuning the saw.. she said they might leave it off for me.. but still make note of any damage before signing for the saw.. Now... hopefully it was worth the wait.. I know this isn't the old style Hawk that I know and like.. She is also quite lucky they called today.. I had my deadline set for tomorrow but contemplated waiting another day or two.. but I had planed to cancel out my order this very week... simply because I've been communicating with a seller of a used Hawk 220VS Ultra... had looked at the saw ( like new ).. and was going to be buying it this Saturday..

Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of BW... But then.. also not a big fan of Amazon.. while I do sell on Amazon.. I just don't like buying on Amazon... This place doesn't have the cheapest shipping either but.. they do have awesome service and I try to combine a order large enough to justify ordering from them.. Woodworking Parts

Well, so far I'm happy with the quick cheap fix of a couple drops of loctite.. scrolled all morning and the saw has so far stayed tuned where I set it.. I just wanted to add that if you ever take that thing apart it's a pain in the rear to get that nut and washer back in there and threaded onto the shaft.. can't reach back there too well with fingers.. can't slide it back into the relative position because there is a raised ledge sort of spot where the rod pushes on the arm. I kept either dropping the washer or the nut... three drops of super glue on the washer and sticking in onto the nut did the trick though.. I've used grease and silicone sealer to do this trick before on cars.. I didn't want grease on there to make it turn too easy since I washed off all the oil that was on the threads etc.. so super glue was the savior of the day, LOL

Thank you both for serving!!

I do the same thing basically but not everyone has that perfect scroll sawing area. Lots of people scroll on wood floors etc so have to be careful not to mis inform a newbie. And I’m just the kind of person that still going to use a square because it’s going to be the most accurate. IMO

Okay I now see that the electronic device can be zeroed out.. but the trailer / camper bubble type levels aren't going to do anything good for a scroll saw

I might be out of my mind on this... but... How is that level going to be as accurate as a machinist square next to the blade.. The saw's table might be level by one of those things.. what happens if your stand or the floor the stand sits on isn't level but it shows the table is.. LOL Wouldn't this just tell if your table is level to the ground or the stand it's mounted to rather than to the blade on the saw? Maybe I'm just confused on what your leveling..

Yeah, that was kind of what I had thought about doing.. But for a quick fix to get back to cutting today I put the loctite on it and put it back together.. Will probably leave it as is until I have an issue again.. I don't think the thing is worn.. but more like defective.. The saw was brand new when I bought it I've not put many hours on the thing at all.. Definitely less than 50 hours.. Well... I've only cut my puzzles on it and then I stack cut like 6-10 stacks of ornaments.. I've only made 15 puzzles. so really I might have about 30-40 hours at best on that saw.. I also am figuring out that maybe I wasn't having such the issues with the blade chucks as i thought I was having.. It was more about this thing going out of whack and making it hard to get enough blade to clamp to.. the distance keeps going up and making my blades seem shorter, LOL Not being able to see the blade back in the OEM chuck so well I thought I was having clamp issues.. The clamp did hang up on the the piece it moves on... But looking back at it now.. I think this knob adjustment thing has been the whole culprit.. Glad i have the upgraded chucks anyway..

Hey, now... I've never had much trouble out of my DeWalt until about 4 years into using it... Allot... and the newer style Hawk I have.. the older Hawk I have was very well used and had issues when I got it.. my first Hawk and I expected to make repairs on it.. Now.. IF Bushton would mail me my New Hawk.. I could maybe have a good or bad experience to talk about.. LOL.. But meanwhile.. patiently waiting and waiting, and........ waiting..... and.... LOL Sure is a good thing I don't rely on just one saw.. or even two saws LOL Now I need to get back out to the shop and loctite this adjuster rod so I can get my order finished.. gotta be in the mail Wednesday. Maybe just finish it up on the DeWalt or the older Hawk.. LOL

Okay... just got off the phone with Seyco.. and.. he asked a series of questions to determine what was going on.. (ie make sure the knob is tight to the shaft etc etc.. ) getting down to the nitty gritty of it.. asked me to remove blade and wiggle the back knob and estimate how much play it has back and fourth etc.. His conclusion was.. the threads are too loose in the shaft and or the steel block that it threads into.. The three fixes he suggested was.. 1) Buy a new shaft and block assembly ( since saw is out of warranty) approximately $30 2) pull the assembly apart and put some blue loctite on the threads to tighten it up some and see if it helps. 3) pull assembly and use some thread tape on the threads and see if that helps. I didn't order the parts yet.. pockets are somewhat empty today.. have blue loctite on hand.. since I'm not one to change a set up on a saw much at all I'm guessing the loctite will last me quite a while.. Apparently the saw I got was built on a Monday or Friday.. Monday everyone comes to work with a hang over and can't function properly.. LOL or Friday because their mind in on the weekend and not focused on the work at hand.. Just goes to show that a bad apple slips through every company from time to time.. I've had issue after issue with this saw.. I'll get it running as it should sooner or later after I rebuild the whole thing.. LOL Also just goes to show that it's not just me bitching about this saw.. it really is a bad apple.. and since I had no experience with these saws.. really made me wonder what was so special about these that everyone likes them so much.. apparently most of your saws was built in the middle of the week, LOL If someone got there hands on this saw that wasn't mechanically incline how do you suppose they would feel about the Excalibur saw.. Or even me.. only reason I keep messing with the thing is because I wanna see what everyone else does about why they are such a nice saw... After hours of puttering around with it... I'm starting to see the glimmer of a nice saw that everyone else has.. and loves..

Okay as usual curiosity got the cat and I took the covers off. Not sure how well you can see this but appears to be a rod going down through a threaded block and a jamb nut and washer at the bottom. The whole thing is quite loose fitting in there. The threads look to have some oil on them. The washer is just a plain steel washer. You guys that posted pictures of your saw with view of that knob looks like that knob sticks up above the saw higher. Wonder if there was a design change or mines made with a defective part.

Okay so I have this custom order I’m doing. Got the Hawk set up and doing a special project on it so I didn’t want to desturb my settings on it. Choose to work on the Excalibur. I adjusted the top arm to be parallel, got a paint marker and marked the knob since mine has no mark... also marked a dot on the saw for reference. See photos I then started out on my project. Note how much I got cut and how much that knob moved. Do you guys / Gail’s saw move out of adjustment this fast. Can you see why I’m annoyed with using the saw and why I don’t rave about how good a saw it is. The sawing started out not really all that aggressive but as I was cutting it started getting harder to do my tight corners. That’s when I checked my settings. It looks as though in order to put loctite on it I’m going to have to take it apart to access where it screws into. Edit To Add: After looking closer at the knob and thinking I was going to loctite it before I got started I did notice what appears to be a jamb nut underneath the knob.. but the knob sits so close to the top of the saw that there's no way to get a wrench in there to jamb it down, LOL I'm going to look at a diagram when I get time to see exactly how the set up is.. because I can't believe this thing can't be set up better than it is.. maybe I'm missing something on this.. Maybe I should call Ray and see if he has had complaints and or a fix for this.. Love cutting on it.. just wish it'd stay set where I put it at.. LOL

Thanks JT, I contacted the company I get my clocks from and they said that there was a company in Australia that has a 57mm.. she said the all the smaller clocks have issues with the alarm being accurate.. they are + or - 10 min.. on the alarm function.. and people don't like them because of that.. also hard to design so the alarm functions can be set and turned off etc.. Years ago klockit and a few others I think had a digital clock 1-7/16 with buttons on the front.. I was pretty sure it had alarm function. much like the old digital watches back in the day.. so I was hopeful for that..

Once that upper arm is parallel make note of the position of the knob at the back.. many of the Excalibur type saws this will turn on it's own over time.. Most annoying thing about my EX now.... is it untunes itself.. and pretty fast rate for me.. I posted about this and many others said theirs does the same thing.. I'm planning to add a little loctite on the threads then set it where it should be and hopefully it'll take care of that annoyance for me.. Otherwise.. I love the saw now that I've finally got it running good..Hopefully Pegas took note of this issue and redesigned it to stay put better.. Glad to hear you like the saw..