kmmcrafts

Okay, thank you all very much for your help... I found out how to get the font in my computer... appears it's a Steve Good Font and I downloaded the pattern printer off his site.. I knew it was in that program.. but didn't realize it was his Font.. anyway.. now that I downloaded the program... the font is in my fonts list on inkscape etc.. so I'm good now.. Wow, what a time it was tracking that one down, LOL I have a repeat customer every year that buys different sets of words plaques desk / shelf sitters.. and likes the font.. first year on this new computer and I was worried because it's not on here and I couldn't find it.. Thanks Ray for pointing that out about Steves copywrite.. that's how I discovered it was in the program I downloaded earlier..

Scroll Saw is the one I'm looking for.. I know that.. while I do like the other scrollsaw2 and the scrollsaw3 ones as well.. But I haven't found where to download them at.. Didn't find them at dafont site.. but maybe I over looked it.. I used the search function with no luck.. I'm in need of making a desk name plaque thing.. whatever you call them , LOL and want the scroll saw font to do it for a special order.. I can make the thing with Steve Goods pattern printer with the font.. but not on inkscape. I have 50 names to make in various sizes and need inkscape to manipulate the text. something that steve goods pattern maker won't do.. I can make it on his PP program and scan in to my computer to upload to inkscape if need be.. but for 50 names.. it seems downloading the font would be much more practical.. I have the fonts on my old computer.. which barely works.. maybe I can fire it up and take the font off if it on a thumb drive to put on my new computer.. Just like to find a download for it..

My old computers had a scrollsaw font installed on them.. my new computer doesn't have the scrollsaw fonts on them.. Now maybe my older computers I installed these fonts on them? I don't know.. but in searching for the scrollsaw fonts.. I cannot find them.. everything comes up with websites asking about different fonts for the scroll saw, LOL .. not a actual place where I can download and install these fonts... memory serves me right.. I believe there is a scrollsaw scrollsaw2 and scrollsaw3 T type fonts where you can put them on your PC to use.. where you get them? don't know.. Anyone know?

You done really well considering the weather you had to deal with etc.. Done better than I did this year that's for sure..LOL... well my year isn't over yet but..

That dumb guard rattled on mine too.. and I moved it this way and that and it would stop for a bit but then must have vibrated back or something... The last time I moved it it hasn't rattled since.. because I move it far away from the saw and in a box of parts that'll go with the saw if I should decide to sell it one day, LOL

The bad batch of blade thing.... I wouldn't write off Pegas just yet.. they are awesome blades when they have the good ones.. and info for those new to the scroll saw world... in my 12 years of scroll sawing and monitoring these message boards.. Flying Dutchman and Olsen both have had bad batches of blades get past quality control a few times... just something that happens.. in most every business.. DnD from my understanding is replacing blades that was purchased from them if they are bad... I just going to use mine.. because most so far aren't too bad.. just a little frustrating being this time of the year and trying to get some production out and having to fuss with the blades.. I switched over to my FD-UR blades yesterday for a while.. My blades for the most part aren't breaking because of material failure.. the blades I have seem to be all different lengths and I have to cut them down.. as when sawing on the Hawk you bottom the blade out on both ends.. which I just now thought of something... this wouldn't affect me on my DeWalt.. cause the blade can hang out the top end of the clamp... Guess what.. I'm going to be cutting on today.. I think the once that do break are because I'm not getting them cut to the correct length which is changing the tension of the blade that = failure... no more failed blades today on the DeWalt I hope..

Well these blades I got in size MFG #5 are giving me some issues.. seems about every third blade I use breaks.. I think I can use most but it's frustrating being in the Christmas rush and having to cut these to the correct length etc.. So tonight I decided I was just going to order another couple gross hoping the issue is fixed or at least inspected before being shipped to me... But.. they are now out of stock on that size.. Guess I'm stuck using these junk blades.. LOL.. The other option is.. using the couple gross of FD-UR blades I have or the gross of FD- SR or the Never can have too many blades in stock... I probably have enough blades if I was to sell them I could buy a new Hawk While I am kind of bummed that I can't order some of my favorite blades... I'm also thankful that I also like FD blades and have plenty of blades in stock that I can use.. that said.. I hope they get the issue with the Pegas straightened out and get some back in stock..

Yeah that rocking motion will make it more aggressive and cut slightly faster.. with some practice you'll get use to that aggressive style.. I don't care where you zero that blade at.. that rocking motion will always make it more aggressive than a Hawk / Hegner type saw... Something else you'll notice is.. blades will last about 25% longer in the Excalibur type saws... Many other sawers disagree with me on this subject.. but I feel they haven't run both saws long enough to be proficient at both saws.. My theory of blades lasting longer is... Hawk / Hegner saws have a more straight up / down motion.. when you feed the wood you push into the blade and being more straight up / down is creating a little more heat.. that rocking motion of the DeWalt / Ex type saws backs a portion of the blade out of the cut and away from that heat area to allow less heat.. My thinking anyway.. I may be wrong all the way around on this.. but will say and have seen many other topics of other users saying.. the same things... Not saying one saw is better than the other.. just they have many different well built designs to accommodate many different styles of cutting preferences..

JT, you are correct that the display is very important... and in an over crowded display.. things get missed... I believe you're on the wrong track with shelves though.. take a look around any time you're in a store or craft show... where are people really looking? Their phone... they are shopping online.. probably shopping in my store comparing your goods to mine.. Hahaha I'm just messing with you.. but in a way that is kind of true.. everywhere you go.. people on there phones either shopping, texting, or something.. I believe Scott posted his display racks that he made.. and i think he made them hinged / fold-able for compact transport etc... I'm not to sure where that post topic is though but maybe sending him a message.. maybe what he has is not what you're looking for.. I just remember him posting about his display somewhere.. guessing it's in the business forum..

Also don't forget that the blades given with the saw might not be of any value to the new owner, I probably have a dozen gross of blades.. you know.. the cheap hardware store blades Vermont whatever they are brand... and several gross of blades that are more like huge jigsaw blades that I think are Olsen.. anyway.. I have a whole box full of blades I'll never use that came with the used scroll saws I've bough over the years.. and every time I sell a saw.. I intend to give that box of blades to them.. so they'll have a box of blades they can't use too.. .. somehow I always forget to pass them on.. LOL.. Maybe someone here would like a box of blades?

I think the price is kind of in line with the 30" saw... This saw doesn't look to be used much at all... The seller states he'd drive to meet up.. It's screaming at you.. BUY me Buy me

My brother wears that powered one for his small guitar cab shop.. He really likes it.. but quite a chunk of change though worth it if it works good... My question is..... Does the air that thing pump filtered or are they just sucking up all the dust you create and blowing it into your mask LOL..

They sell a small and a large.. or was it medium and large.. I don't remember now.. but there is two sizes or three..

You'll get a ton of options on this subject, LOL.. almost like the what saw to buy and what blades to buy, LOL.. For what it's worth.. I bought this mask a year ago and just replaced the filters for the second time a few weeks ago.. I do occasionally take the filters out and use a air gun to blow the dust back out.. but I quit doing that.. as it didn't make sense to not have a mask on while blowing the dust out of my mask sending it all over my shop.. I wear it anytime I'm in the shop.. even with dust collection and everything.. there is still fine dust that settles everywhere and just moving can stir it up.. so I just always wear it.. https://www.rockler.com/gvs-elipse-p100-half-mask-respirators?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoo7gBRDuARIsANeJKUZaA6c_mJfrRvsCTk2_XKcbwIfhLlxm7V4tpH9LPrS7XkWuOmLiTnAaAnZdEALw_wcB

By the looks of the saw table.. I'd say it was hardly used.. the paint on these saws table wears off quite fast.. something I was / am disappointed with on my saw.. only about one weeks work and a good amount of the paint on mine was gone... probably like 20 - 30 hours.. so I doubt the saw is used at all or very little.. If that is actual photos..

That is great news JT.. I'm very happy that you did well.. Love to hear how the craft show market does and while no comparison to online.. I somehow try to compare it to what i do.. In my mind a show like you do with that kind of $ sales.. actually could be worth it.. I've said in the past that I've only done a few shows way back in the beginning.. of my selling.. most were 1-2 day events and just at church type event settings.. I always did $200 - 500 in sales.. but felt my time sitting there was worth more.. in part.. because back then I also had little kids that I had to bring with me as the wife works every weekend.. and shows was always on the weekends.. so lugging around three young ones and setting up.. and the kids getting bored, hungry, and having to go to the bathroom every ( what seems like) few minutes LOL.. everything was just not worth the effort to me for $500.. One day.. I'm going to give the craft show another go at it.. now that the kids are bigger.. shoot.. I most likely could have them run the show now and just stay home and work.. which is what i like..and why online works best for me, LOL Again, nice to see everyone posting about the craft shows doing good...

Congrats on the great sales... inventory always comes up short.. Last year you do great on a certain item so you focus on making a bunch for the next year and only sell a couple and you then sell out of something else, LOL Never fails.. Only if we could read what the shoppers would be looking for each year.. it'd sure take a lot of guesswork out of what to make next.. LOL

Good luck Scott.. hoping the rain holds off for you....and I bet you're ready for that break... Me too.. LOL.. been a real busy one this year..

What Pegas type did you buy? The Pegas MFG blades are milled I believe.. so they do not have that slight couple of degrees off center cut like the FD blades do.. they do take a little getting used to at first... but once you do.. they are a long lasting sharp cutting blade.. I've tried to use the Penguin blades and they just cut too slow for my liking and makes me push the blade too hard.. they cut nice If I can hold my horses an take it easy... but that is just not what my cutting style is.. and not what I'm used to.. so I have a couple dozen of a few different sizes I've had now for 5-6 years.. LOL.. Probably should send them down the road to someone that'd use them.. LOL

Hotshot did a video of his BM series with the nickle test.. It's on Youtube..

Dan is correct.. Only the FD Ultra Reverse blades have the dimple... I remember when they started doing that dimple.. made things a lot easier... Those UR lades are my go to blades if I'm not using Pegas, LOL... Used the TC ( two way cut) blades before I discovered the UR blades.. Funny because they are almost the same blade. yet they ( to my knowledge ) never put the dimple on them.. and running your finger down either one of these blades is not very doable the way the teeth design its.. as they have reverse teeth throughout the whole blade..

My Hawk 226 Ultra is pretty darn smooth from slowest setting until just before Half way on the dial.. even thin it's not horrible.. better than some of the cheap saws I've had at any speed, LOL.. Anyway it smooths back out again just a few hundred SPM past that first little bit of vibration area.. then it's smooth sailing from there to full speed.. BUT.. as mentioned.. I had to fuss with the stand quite a lot to get it completely level to my floor.. Before I did that it was only vibration free at only a few select speeds.. and non were where I like to run it.. LOL I most times run mine about 3/4 of the way up on the dial.. sometimes 7/8 the way up.. My stand never came with any kind of feet on it.. and I could never get it to run as smooth as my older Hawk 220.. and I bought some adjustable feet for it at the hardware store like I did with the 220 when I first got it... I kept playing around with those adjustable feet until I got it to run smooth throughout most of the speed ranges.. there is one spot on the dial I believe on all Hawks that does have a little more vibration.. I think Randy ( Hotshot ) mentioned about this when he got his BM series Hawk as well as Iggy.. Anyway they all called it a sweet spot... I never could figure that out because that vibration isn't sweet to me.. so I call it a sour spot on the dial... the rest of the dial selections are sweet spots LOL

I was Bragging that I have a rare limited edition of defective blades.. If I hang onto these long enough they'll be worth millions.. Maybe? I posted here by accident because I was using my phone to post the pictures.. not only posted here once.. but twice.. before I found the actual correct place, LOL

Okay, I've really got some goofed up blades.. @octoolguy Ray... those notches are not to mark end for end that's for sure.. I have been out sawing and run across some goofy blades.. the one was notched and pointed on both ends and another was like this on the bottom instead of the top.. The one that had it on both ends didn't last too long because I could tell right away that something wasn't right... Tension was too loose and I was using the Hawk and had been sawing right along and moved nothing... put the blade up by the old one again ( should have grabbed a picture ) and it was about 1/8" longer.. that pointed end on these from my experience is not really the end of the blade.. they are supposed to be cut flat but something must have messed up and got past quality control, LOL Now.. Pegas blades have always been a little on the longer side for me and I have to adjust the Hawk if I'm switching back and fourth from FD - Pegas.. Anyway.. these blades are definitely messed up.. now that I know I can probably get by with them by snipping the end off or something.. hoping my whole gross package isn't like this.. hard to tell when they are all bundled still.. and don't really want to open them all up, LOL..

Ray recently posted about putting blades in the wrong way and how he discovered their mark on the Pegas to decipher top of blades. I didn’t see what he was talking about and thought maybe he was seeing things or I wasn’t So today I used up my last of a gross of blades and had to open up my new gross pack. There is the mark Ray talked about. This must be a new thing for Pegas and I have mixed feelings about it. First off this notch they ground into the top end of the blade weakens the blade in this area. The very tip is also ground and tends to be pointed more so which likes to catch on the edges of stack cutting layers while trying to insert the blade. While I could get use to it being pointed I suppose but not to sure about the weak spot they created with that notched part. I did break one blade in this area BUT it was dull and I was pushing it just finishing up my last cut. But I do see it as a weak spot. Not sure if you can see the difference in this picture of the new blade vrs the old one. Hopefully My Brain Thawed Out And I Post In The Right Section This Time..