kmmcrafts

I didn't like the shape / style of the thumb screws that came with my clamps... so I put the ones I got for my DeWalt ( extra set that I never needed ) in it... so.. no issues for me at all...

The Dewalt would come with a on board dust collection and the jim dandy easy lift. Adjustable motor to change the blade movement like the EX... The Excalibur would have more table in front of the blade without any stupid coatings on it.. come standard with Pegas clamps.. and some sort of on board dust collection.. have a faster running speed like the DeWalt and Hawks 1500SPM Vrs 1750.. Stand could be designed more like the DeWalt stand... My Hawk 226 Ultra would have variable blade aggression adjustment.. and a on board dust collection system... I think my new BM series will fit my request quite well other than the dust collection, LOL All saws come with a hour meter.. just make it easier for maintenance... and a timer to time projects.. Also all saws come with blade tubes and on board tube holder.. Adjustable height bracket for the foot switch be part of the stands that can mount on either side of the stand.. Dewalt and Ex type saws have grease fittings so you don't have to spend a day taking them apart just to oil / grease them.. or high end sealed bearings..

I always wondered why Excalibur ever put a coating on the table in the first place? Why does it even need a coating is really a pretty good question.. I mean.. My DeWalt never had any coating and yeah if I don't keep it waxed it'll rust.. Hawk doesn't have any coatings on the table.. and if I don't wax it... it doesn't rust because it's aluminum.. I'd rather have no coating and sell me the saw for less money because you saved the money from having to coat a table that don't last more than 10 - 15 hours use.. LOL

I like that one.. great cutting..

Been there done that one myself

That is pretty cool, I like to see the custom twist others put into existing patterns.. I also do this quite a lot myself..

I like that... Don did great on the design.. you did a great job with the cutting..

Very well done.. I like the gear head one.. I always wanted to make a clock similar to that.. All of them look great.. you'll have lots of fun with that new saw..

Yeah, I only took pictures of the "NEW" cuttings not the stuff I make all the time anyway.. LOL..

Well I took a little break from the shop after the busy holidays... but got back at it last week making ornaments to restock some sold out ones.. Will be doing a mix of ornaments, clocks, and hopefully a few new designs over the next few months.. Also looking forward to doing a few portrait style cuttings.. Got a busy year ahead of me for sure with the plans I have, LOL Thanks for looking,

That's a good idea too... I see a lot of those, mainly the 14" for $150 -300.. problem is by the time you do the upgrades to make it user friendly for fretwork.. LOL.. you can buy a new EX type saw.. LOL.. while the Hegner would probably outlast it once set up.. especially if your just using it at shows etc as a demo saw..

Yeah the EX 16 would be half of the Hawks weight.. The Hawk 226 weighs in at 120.. and I think that is without the legs or accessories.. Both my DeWalt and my eX-21 weigh a lot less than the Hawk does.. even the 220 Hawk is quite a lot heavier.. I'd bet the difference between a EX-16 and EX-21 would be real minimal.. If you use the factory stand with them they both use the same stand.. so the only added weight would be just the little extra metal for the saw itself..

When I had a old Dremel that vibrated pretty good. I mounted it between the stand and the saw a piece of foam carpet padding. When tightening the bolts down I went ahead and cranked them down tight.. which really only squished the foam and gave very little effect on the vibration... soo I run the saw at the desired speed I wanted to run it a, and started loosening the bolts one turn at a time until it got better... You can sort of fine tune the saw like this.. I was able to get that saw virtually as smooth as my DeWalt was pretty much throughout the speed ranges.. so.. this is something to try

Ruffling feathers... that's what I always came here for... every now and then you gotta stir the pot otherwise all the good stuff sticks to the bottom I always liked to stir the pot because it would bring out a lot of good conversation.. and interesting content for the readers with their bucket of pop corn... This place has always been more entertaining than any movie or TV show I've ever seen.. and also meet a lot of new friends..

My DeWalt came with it attached but as Dan said.. eventually it'll crack.. I used needle nose pliers to take the cracked one off then run a sink of HOT water and soaked it in there a while to heat it up.. once it was good and hot.. I added a couple drops of dish soap to the inside and on the metal part on the saw.. and while it can be a tricky struggle.. I've alwats been able to get them on this way.. Now that I have a heat gun... I might try that next time..

Most of these are 1-1/4 - 2 inch pieces.. so most of this will be resawn on my bandsaw since most everything I make is cut from 5/8 inch or thinner.. so doing that will just about double that stack.. should last me a good bit of time. BUT.. and this is a bigger reason I rarely get this free stuff from my brother... It's not been dried yet so all this lumber will be stacked / stickered up in my rafters for probably at least 6 months before i'll be able to use it.. That said.. I have about about 4 times this much free wood from him that's been setting in my other shop for about two years now.. so I'll probably be digging that out this spring and start making things with it..

Last week when helping my brother that owns the Sawmill find a new motor for his skid steer he mentioned that he was going to be sorting grade lumber this week and I need to come pick the scrap bins or the cutoffs go in the wood burning stove. So today before going to pick up my CNC I thought I’d see what he had. I saved quite a lot of cherry and a few pieces of Oak from being burned up. Should be able to put this to good use. Couple of the pieces I grabbed as scraps for the mistakes I’ll be making on my CNC trying to learn it.

That my CNC Shark HD4 is ready to be picked up.. Yay!!! NOW, to figure out where it's going to be parked at in my shop.. Will have to buy / build a table for it.. Same issue with my laser that came in a few weeks back.. I only unboxed it and looked at it.. because I need a table and also needed to figure out what kind of coolant to run in it.. I have the coolant narrowed down to two types.. I guess both work so I just need to decide what one I want to use, LOL... Of coarse we've been in a warmer weather situation for the past few weeks and now that my new toys are coming it's supposed to start being colder than normal starting this weekend and run through the end of the month.. and my luck...probably February too.. Haven't heard anything from those folks in Bushton KS about my new Hawk.. When I log into my account.. it shows my order is awaiting fulfillment..

In that case where you have a insert that is removable I understand.. but what the original poster here did was fill a hole with JB weld.. so he's not taking it out for the blade changes.. I've made inserts in the past for my old Delta and Dremel saws that required a insert and did as you do for blade changes.. BTW, anything more than two saws is a waste anyway as you only have two hands.. Now.. If I could line them all up and somehow attach something to each of my projects so i cut on one saw and the others follow along with my one cutting... now that would be some production cutting right there..

Seems like that'd make blade changes cumbersome.. especially with the original barrel style blade clamps. Might not be so bad with the Pegas upgraded clamp though.. Great idea for those that need a zero clearance on a regular basis.

Anybody know if they will be having a 16" model?

First of all, welcome to the scroll saw village... I don't know about your question, but you mention having to sit sideways.. In shopping for my new saw I seen that the Hawk brand scroll saw has a stand specifically for their scroll saw.. so with that said.. maybe take a look at this stand they have.. it may have some dimensions that you might be able to use and also give you an idea for wheel chair accessible. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/chair-leg-kit/ Like I said... not sure if there is any info here that'd help you design and build yours.. just thought I'd show what I seen on their site a few weeks ago..

The letters, in the blade model number PGDT stands for "precision ground double tooth" and the 497..Not quite sure what the first two are for.. maybe just a part number for the first two but I believe the last number sort of represents the size number of the blade.. the reference number of the blade in your number example is a #7... The Olsen PGDT series blades only come in I believe size #5,7,and 9.. 5 would be smaller than the other numbers.. Hope this is what you was referring to with your question.. Okay, just re-read your posting..Not the info you was looking for.. I would say bout the only way is to measure the size of the blade.. over time you'll know somewhat just by looking at the blade and comparing it to other blades that you know what they are.. to sort of see the difference in size..

Thank you JT, I do like doing different and unique stuff like this.. and the more time it takes doesn't bother me a bit.. because the more time = more money.. I've don't quite a lot of this type of custom twist on patterns quite a lot.. I just don't usually show them off as much... In fact I've never posted my works on forums or message boards until recently since I've gotten active here on the village... most things just went to my website and sold never to be seen again.. I do have pictures somewhere, LOL I should dig through some of that stuff one day..

Thanks to everyone that had tried to help out in searching for the pattern.. I searched for it for quite some time but I really didn't know what category to look under... while I guess pool is considered a sport.. for some reason I just didn't think to look there.. I think of sports as football, baseball, hockey etc etc .. and would have never thought to look there... I see there are actually a lot of clock patterns mixed throughout the site.. but searching for clock patterns you basically have to search every category to find them all... sort of the same thing with ornaments.. as there are religious themed ornaments.. and also wildlife, word art and other themed ornaments.. so basically you just have to search out throughout the whole library to find something.. I typically save all patterns to my computer and back them up several times... If I cut a pattern they go into a special file location for ones I have cut.. this way if I've cut it.. I have the pattern.. but telling people where they can get the pattern is a tough one because I've grabbed patterns for 14 years from various sites.. many of which no longer exist.. Big reason I rarely post things I've made in the past.. and only show things I just made because I know where I got the design from if I just made it, LOL.. Anyway, Thank you all again for your efforts in helping find this design..