kmmcrafts

Well, If the chuck is going down all the way to the wood there is only two things it can be.. 1) Drill Bit Too Short 2) Drill Bit To Far Into Chuck Which Makes It Too Short Is it possible that the since you put the bit all the way out to the bottom of the chuck that it could be slipping and pushing back up into the chuck.. I mean... If you have 1-1/2 + inch sticking out of the bottom of the chuck then you should be drilling through that distance.. unless like i said.. it's slipping back up slightly into the chuck.. If you weren't bottoming out the chuck to the wood I'd say you need to adjust the depth stop..

LOL, First thing to come to my mind is.... Is the drill bit you was using actually longer than the 1-1/2 inch stock you're trying to drill? Sounds like the problem to me since you say your 7/64 bit did it.. I find a lot of the smaller bits are also short bits.. especially when you get to the real small bits..

For your information... Hawk sells an upgraded upper clamp and tension mechanism for the older Hawks.. I found out when calling about my tension lever would pop up once I started sawing.. I thought it was worn wedges as they will also cause similar issue.. turned out to be the tension mechanism was badly worn.. and I had a very old style that had no adjustment screw underneath like the newer saws have.. They sold me a kit that upgraded my old Hawk with the BM series upper clamp mechanism and it came with new upper blade clamps and the whole tension mechanism.. I had to take the upper arm off and press the punch pin out and change out the whole thing... My upper clamp on my old 1993 Hawk is now removable... that said.. to my knowledge I don't see any real advantage to that for my old saw since the lower clamps are still the old barrel clamp.. and the lower arm sits back behind the angle adjustment anyway... so it's not like I can top feed with this set-up.. I upgraded because I wanted the adjustable tension cam.. otherwise I was back to having to replace the whole thing again when it wears out... by upgrading I only have to change the cam and lever...

Was excited the receive this award.. LOL and felt it's worth a little bragging rights.. It's certainly not easy selling online and especially on Etsy where there is 1.9 million sellers to compete with.. I had to crop most of the info out of this image due to privacy reasons so I just show the little banner from the message I got.. I owe a big Thank You to the Pattern designers... Also to this website and everyone here to this success as I couldn't have achieved this without you all..

I believe I seen in another post that he is using the Festool MIDI dust extractor on the low setting.. he had talked about it being much quieter on the low setting.. which is why I was planning to go that route..

Great set-up Rolf, this is what I had in mind to do.. I really just need the Vac I have bought all the PVC etc... but I couldn't decide on the Vac to buy.. I'll be picking up a Festool soon.. one of my lumber suppliers is a dealer for the Festool... me being cheap was researching all sort of brand extractors.. While many of us here have heard the Festool and Fein names.. you'd be surprised that there are some others that I never heard of before and many of the drywall guys was saying some of these other brands was cheaper and actually better than the Festool or Fein.. and at a lower cost.. But since the dealer for the known brand is someone I deal with on a regular basis.. I have now decided to go that route.. ( until I change my mind again anyway )

LOL, I have mentioned many times that most of my car clock patterns are purchased from a person on Etsy that does patterns for laser or CNC... I've even posted a few times as a tip that discussed to look for vector and DXF type files for scroll saw projects as this is what a lot of those guys use.. You might have to find a program to open DXF files.. but at any rate.. a lot of the questions about the files I have talked about a year or more ago.. Most times in buying the file.. I end up having to size it down quite a lot.. but I have my work around down pat now to get what I need from these type of files... I'm usually modifying file to work with my own twist on it anyway.. as the files I buy are not already clocks and usually have no text etc.. the IF you buy the design from the actual designer.. many times emailing them and asking if they'll change the file up and send it as a PDF.. they're happy to do so for getting the sale.. BUT.. there are a lot of licensed sellers that also know nothing about how to change it up.. I do quite a lot of dealing with a seller on etsy with the store name DarensGraphix... I always look for any of these type files before asking our great designers here.. as I don't mind paying for a ready made design and hate to have designers make something that's already out there...There are a lot of these type files on etsy.. you just have to search for DXF or vector drawings.. Anyway, Melanie explained it and in much better detail than I could,

Yeah, why I typically have the heater on my right side or. opposite side of the direction the dust blower is on the scroll saw.. ( Hawks blow to the left side and the Dewalts / EX blow to the right LOL ) and on the opposite side of the heater I have the box fan with furnace filter.. The box fan seems to get 99% of the dust that floats around in the air.. eventually need to hook up a vac system like many of you all have.. Anyway.. I got to where I don't run my ceiling mount filtration system unless I'm sanding or running any of the other shop tools.. The fan does a great job for the scroll saw.. provided I set it up in the correct spot.. Thanks for the caution though... I don't plan to run this like that.. mainly was just testing what that little heater was capable of.. Soon there will be a furnace in there... probably not until it's so hot I'll wish I had went with AC instead though

So I have had this little LP heater for a few years that I use to set next to me while sawing. https://www.harborfreight.com/15000-btu-tank-top-propane-heater-63073.html The thing really just makes my leg closest to the heater burn up while the rest of me is a little chilly. I stop every now and then to warm my hands up and go back to work. I've been looking at small Lp and or electric heaters as I'll be installing some sort of heat for next year not only for me to be more comfy working.. but also because my CNC and Laser are water cooled. I'll still run coolant in them or anti freeze whatever you choose to call it, LOL. Anyway some of the heaters claim to heat a 30 x 30 shop and are only around 18,000 BTU. I got the bright idea since my little heater is 15,000 BTU.. I took my air filtration ( Box Fan With Furnace Filter ) away from my saw to run a test on if I could raise the temp in the shop.. While cutting yesterday for about 2 hours. I raised the temp 8 degrees while the outside temp was going down.. as it was 16F when I started sawing and only 9 when i finished up.. Now.. Don't do what I did there and run out to get you one of these to do that.. These are NOT a vented heater and they say to keep a door or window open when running it inside.. which I do that.. normally.. but was just running this as a test.. I wasn't in the shop that whole time but kept monitoring the heater and temp.. I normally never leave the thing on if I go in the house as I don't trust it too much.. Just thought it was a fun little test since I really know nothing about BTU or heaters in general.. I will say.. the fan behind it keeps me warmer even though I do keep a door open for fresh air.. feels like a furnace vent heat this way and I'll likely run it like that as it doesn't burn my one leg while the rest of me is still cold. LOL Actually quite surprised at how well it did heat since my loft and stairway are open.. and I had the heater and fan pointed toward the stairway & landing. the thermometer was on the back opposite corner of the shop from the stairway.. Probably was hot upstairs LOL I never went to see but should have.. The upstairs is insulated with R- 20 styrofoam sheeting. Just haven't done the downstairs yet.. Most all the insulation I've picked up from CL from those that bought too much and I've been picking up few sheets at a time.. I also been picking up R-19 rolls to do the downstairs ceiling... someone gave me 4 big brand new rolls of that.. Eventually I'll have it done and cheap too.. The whole upstairs is 4" x 4 x 8 sheets and I bought all of it for $200 and have some sheets left.. Local Menards sells this stuff I used for $73 a 4 x 8 sheet..

.. I wondered who might comment this... I'm old I guess.. because I sure don't wanna work out there in the cold either... at least today and that one day last week... probably tomorow too.. High today was like -4F.. I been out working... but not for very long at a time.. made two clock bases and sanded / finished up two clocks.. Tomorrow supposed to be a lot warmer though.. supposed to get up to zero F so most likely I'll be sawing.. Yesterday was 12F and I worked almost 4 hours sawing a couple clocks and doing some prep work for tomorrows clock cutting..

You need to add this to the other topic.. " what changes would you make " ... I think maybe you need a older saw ( treadle style )..

Sounds a lot like my DeWalt saw when it's cold.. as for the hesitation part.. and it's hard to tell through the camera microphone.. but is the clanging sound due to the hesitation? because mine is also a little noisy when it does this.. usually clears up once ran for 15 second.. but in real cold temps sometimes won't even come on.. sometimes just makes a couple strokes and stops..tap the upper clamp / arm area and it turns on a few more strokes.. in this case... I tend to use a small heater back at the motor to warm it slightly.. couple minutes and she's ready to cut... It's done that since it was new.. just like a old person... don't wanna work in the cold

Exactly why I was considering the Festool vac that you have... most vacs even the Fein doesn't have the High and Low feature.. I almost bought a Fein as they are quite a lot cheaper than the Festool... but I also thought having the low speed would be quieter in both vac sound and the sucking sound that other speak of.. I never did end up buying because I was trying to determine if that theory was true.. I'm glad you mentioned this.. as this is one thing I want to do is hook up some sort of dust vac..

Yeah, and it's almost always the starter.. where you have to get on the ground to get to it... LOL

It's good for spinning donuts in empty parking lots too.. saves on tires is what my kids say .. Oh I remember those days myself... Now I just try to figure out where my lane is.. and putz along..

Paul, most of what I read was bad vibration and loud... also a few clamping / tension issue... but.. nothing real solid issues that was strictly the saw being defective... most likely user error but.. I don't know that either way... I do agree with the fact that Ray is the one that made these saws so popular with his setting them up before shipping them... Even when I first got mine I was like this thing is junk... but you know me I'm going to mess and tinker with it... runs real smooth now.. been cutting on it today I personally wouldn't be afraid to buy any one of them whether Twain or China made.. but many expect a tuned saw out of the box.. and are not mechanically inclined enough to tune it themselves..Just my opinion..

Depending on what the final price will be on this Pegas saw... I find two things that makes the saw more attractive than the King or the "New " Excalibur... one being the "New" Excaliburs are now made in China rather than Twain.. The Pegas is made in the same factory as the old EX was and the New King name still made there.. I've read some ( quite a few ) bad reports on the "New" excalibur... so that in itself makes this saw more attractive than the other saws.. Now the King is still made in the Twain factory.. but still comes with the old style excalibur blade chucks.. and to upgrade you're looking at adding $100 to the price.. but if the Pegas come standard with it.. and... is in the same price range.. well... I'd be buying the Pegas... The color is a bonus to me as well but function and quality is the top priority.. and I think Pegas will have that.. as the past Excalibur's did... As for Steve's review... I agree and have thought the same way with the last few reviews he's done.. mainly since Bearwood is sponsoring him now.. Bearwood wanted to gain his followers as customers.. I don't blame them.. Steve has a huge following... I think Bearwoods could better there service and gain business.. no matter what you're selling..timely deliveries and great customer service can make or break your business... Both my purchases from them could have went better.. also could have been worst.. but grabbing attention to your customer by going above and beyond.. is what makes me shop at DnD and Qtena

I'm guessing most folks wouldn't buy the dust system.. so therefore the cost of the designing making a deal with some vac company to make the specialized vac that could be mounted to the saw frame etc etc.. this would be why they don't do such a thing.. Ray at seyco has the one dust vac that can be set up as a onboard system.. and can be set up with any saw.. I really contemplate getting one of those.. I like the idea it's not another thing setting on the floor.. even though I'm not terribly concerned about space saving.. I still have practical space saving in my mind from working in my old small shop... so I just think this system is a nice feature.. not sure how well it works... never seen any complaints ... have seen a couple reviews on it..

Rick, when I post a picture I chose the Choose files at the bottom of the posting window area.. Then it should pop-up with select file from your computer.. chose the file of your picture and it should upload the picture in a smaller window.. then it's ready to submit like you normally do to reply or post an topic..

BWT, Nice work in cutting it.. I hope to cut this some day.. just had a order for a 1970 Nova but I already had the design for the one ordered.. @JimErn done an awesome job on those car patterns.. Thanks for your efforts in those nice car patterns you've done recently..

I was able to open it.. I'll try to post it for him

Beautiful work!! I love doing the bandsaw boxes... other than the fact that every time I want to make some my saw is set up with the big re-saw blade and it's quite a process to keep changing it from one thing to the next... so... I guess maybe I just need another bandsaw

Great idea.. I've done this but instead I used zip-loc baggies.. the freezer ones have a space to write on them that I used to label what kind of sawduct it was.. While on the sawdust topic.. How good is the sawdust for using as a wood filler that we produce with our saws? I ask because it's not completely just sawdust... it's part of your paper pattern, tape, shelf liner or whatever you use that is also on the wood you're cutting.. so I've always wondered about this.. anytime I've needed sawdust for this I've went out and cut.. " just wood" to make the sawdust.. which is why I always saved it in the baggies..

A few years ago my friend bought something and Fed Ex was to deliver it.. they did something similar and in the end.. my friend ended up having to go to them to get it because they couldn't find his house, LOL In his case.. there is a North and South to his road.. and the way its set up.. logical thinking would be he is on the North end... which yes he was on the north end of the South... but he was also about the last house possible on the north end of the south... yeah kinda confusing but you'd think daily mail people and whatnot would know their route... My friend just told them to hold it and he would come to Fed Ex to pick it up, LOL... They almost sent the item back as un - deliverable..Not sure of your situation.. but.. you might ask if it can be picked up at their terminal... maybe able to get it on Monday instead too... Just an idea..

Basically why I haven't built a dust collection system yet.. I do run the vac on my Excalibur by just hooking up the shop vac to the existing port.. just having a dust port sure helps a lot.. I know many do not like the EX set up.. I'm sure it could be improved... but it does work... Now... I just need to take the time to build up my own system.. maybe when warm weather comes back. LOL