kmmcrafts

Thank you, I'll check into them..

Yeah that's the ones I think I bought.. I bought the tubes with the plastic holder that holds 12 tubes? I also bought an extra 12 tubes but.. the tubes I ordered extra are smaller but only slightly.. and neither fit..

Anyone use the holes on the sides of the Excalibur saws body for their storage tubes? I have a whole stack of test tubes.. however not one of them fits into these holder holes on the body of the Excalibur.. If you do use these with test tubes.. what was your source for the test tubes.. I have a couple different sizes and neither fit.. With having so many saws and not really using any one dedicated saw.. well I mostly use the Hawk 226.. but whenever I move to another saw.. I'm always having to come back to the 226 to grab a blade.. I eventually move the tube to the saw I'm using.. just thought it make more sense to put a tube of blades at each saw.. That way I can be even more lazier LOL.. I suppose I could go measure the holes and do a search for the tubes the correct size for the Excalibur.. But that's the hard way... remember.. I said I was lazy in my last paragraph, LOL.. But I thought I'd ask because maybe someone will post a better storage system.. Now, I've seen a lot of your wooden storage racks etc.. I'm not looking for that kind of solution... Where my Excalibur is located.. I don't really have any tables or areas where I can set something down on.. which is why I was specifically looking for tubes that'll fit the slots on the sides of the base.. I don't need to put 10 different styles of blades at the saw.. I most commonly only use 3 different blades.. and if I need a uncommonly used blade getting up to get it isn't a big deal.. It's just that every time I switch to a different saw I've gotta get up to grab the blades.. I will be rearranging my shop soon so maybe I won't have the issue of one saw being clear across the shop.. Both the Hawks sit right next to each other and I keep my blade storage system right in between them so using either of these saws is not a problem..and the DeWalt sits right on the one side of the Hawk too so it's also not too big of a problem..

Don't have any tips, but wanted to say what a beautiful piece of work you have made there..

What I know if Don ( Old crow scrollwerks) is that he was a older gentleman and had been retired.. keeping up with his house and all and the declining health of his wife etc.. they moved into a retirement home... with limited internet access.. He talked about still running the pattern site as best he could but he would have limited internet and he didn't know how well it would go.. That is the last I've heard from him... that was about a year ago I believe.. He's a great guy to deal with and I really don't think he'd rip you for your money on purpose anyway.. I used to deal with him a lot on custom patterns but when he put out that notice I stopped because my pattern request are usually about something for a customer that I need to have in a timely manor.. How long has it been since you made the purchase? Maybe he only checks in once very week or two since he has limited internet?

Yeah I'm not quite sure what the big deal in on this topic.. Ray already said what he found.. and just to clarify.. Not all drill chucks are the same.. because it works for your drill doesn't mean it will for mine and Rays type of drill press... I notice right away that the jaws on your chuck do not stick out as far as the one does on my chuck with a 1/16 bit.. Either way... the other thread was locked for a reason and I see no real reason to re-open the can of worms.. Ray got his question answered so I think we all just need to drop this subject.. before Travis has to kick us all out..

I see the Harbor Freight drill press has the quill lock.. also seen quite a few other low cost drill press's with the quill lock.. Not sure it really has anything to do with the price of the press.. but I could be wrong.. I'm going to be in the market for a new drill press maybe this year.. my $2 Delta press is getting really sloppy and noisy.. I'll be looking on the Marketplace and craigslist and of coarse the online deals.. sooner or later I'm not going to have much choice if i wait for this one to give up.. LOL https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-12-speed-bench-drill-press-63471.html

Yeah, done that a couple times, LOL.. one time was when the product had been sold and I was packaging it up for mailing it out.. Nothing like rushing out to the shop to get another made right away so I can mail it out in a timely manor, LOL Also done the custom pattern for someone with the name spelled wrong and didn't know it until I sent them pictures of the finished piece.. LOL

I'm sure there are many ways to do this and not everyone will do it the same way.. My way, I loosen the table clamp and then grab the table.. raise up the table and hold with one hand.. use my other hand to lower the quill to match the table..hold the table let go of the handle to lower the quill and tighten the able clamp.. Now that all said... watch out for the table raising and up to the quill.. that bugger sometimes slides harder than other times and I've done it more than once where I was pulling up the table and it was moving a little hard then all of a sudden let loose comes up and smashes my drill bit busting it in half, LOL Tips.. just like the scroll saw table top.. I wax the post that the table slides on so it goes up/ down easy and smooth... This helps a great deal.. That post on mine has some markings on it. just discolored marks from being abused before I got it.. but sometimes those little visual dings dents rust spot whatever it might be. for me.. I've grown to sort of know where the table spots I use the most are so I bring the table up close to where I think it would match the quill then I lower the quill down until i get them close enough to contact.. Takes some practice and sometimes some broken drill bits .. but I have it all down to muscle memory now and it just sort of comes natural.. Always said my next press will have the gear / crank to raise / lower the table.. I'm so used to using the table to adjust the depth of drilling that I doubt I'd ever use a quill depth stop ever...

Thank you all for the nice comments... Etsy has been a fun adventure but honestly I have put more focus in different places.. will continue on etsy but selling only on one site will never get me where I want / need to be... plus if etsy fell off the internet then I'd be up a creek without a paddle LOL.. While this is a accomplishment to recognize.. don't be fooled.. This just means 96% of sellers on etsy only had a few sales.. as I'm certainly not breaking any records on there.. LOL

I'm thinking.... smoke it coming from the ears, LOL How about Jesus standing and creating the sun of napkins? I don't know how to describe it in words but maybe someone will understand it, LOL ... probably not though..

JT, You're not always wrong.. you always give wonderful advice and I think I can speak for all of us here on the village we value your years of experience.. Now.. also should clarify too.. you're not always right either... But nether are any of us.. as we all are human so take it easy on yourself..

I don't know how it can get any clearer than this.. I might have an advantage on the subject though... because.. Ray and I both have the same drill press... and for me personally with the bits I have that are 1/16"... I've never had a bit that size that would drill that deep without this issue.. the smaller the bit. the more the chuck jaws protrude.. so.. basically the bit he is using is too short.. yeah it might measure to be a 2" bit unchucked but once in the chuck and the chuck jaws protruding out.. I really think the problem is too short of a bit.. because I have the same press... But not sure.. maybe he has a bit longer than I've ever had... I don't have this issue anymore since I bought a mini chuck for small bits.. So anyway, in a nut shell, I knew exactly what he was saying because... I've been there done that with my press which is just like his..

I have the same press as Ray.. and the chuck on mine doesn't hold the small bits well... there is certainly enough travel in the quill for drilling 1-1/2" stock.. I've had the same issue in drilling hole with them small bits.. and I've had the bit slip but not noticeable as in spinning speed.. but once drilled the bit had backed up into the chuck just a little.. As for the quill stop.. On this particular style drill press... it's much easier to just leave the stop where it bottoms out at full length quill extension and ( well actually I have mine at about half way ) move the table to the bottom out position than it is to move the quill stop.. Not the easiest set up to mess with.. so for me.... I have certain stop blocks right at the press... If I'm drillin out a clock I have a thickness scrap ( all my clocks the same thickness as I plane my own lumber ) I drop the block on the press table raise the able to the bit I'm using with the quill bottomed out and touching the tip of the bit..I get the correct depth every time.. Much easier to loosen the table than to adjust those stupid two nuts that if I don't get them tight enough they vibrate and adjust themselves and change the depth on their own while I'm drilling.. LOL Mine is a well used and worn press that I bought at a tractor parts swap meet..only gave $2 for it about ten years ago.. I've drilled a lot of holes with it.. getting noisy and probably going to need to replace or rebuild it.. I like the little thing.. Maybe my quill stop is broke or something.. because I know it shouldn't move once I lock it but it does.. and where it's at ( about half way ) is where it goes to and stays on it's own so I let it have its way.. my work around works well for both of us, LOL

This statement here make me think he's getting enough travel in the quill... but the bit is too short OR slipping back up into the chuck.. Doing this will increase the distance from the drill chuck.. therefor you'd need to raise the table up to get the same distance down into the wood.. When I drill pilot holes on my little 8" Delta press.. I always do as what JT said.. I put the sacrificial piece down on the table.. I then adjust the table so the drill bit with the quilll all the way down will bottom out on my sacrificial piece.. I then raise it just a very small amount.. This way I know my bit is going to go through the piece I'm drilling... but not go through my sacrificial piece.. I don't need to make holes on my drill press table so I always, always bottom out the bit just slightly below the top of the sacrificial piece.. His problem is either the bit is too short... or slippage once he starts drilling... that is the only two things it can be "IF" the chuck is going all the way down and hitting his piece he's drilling.. Another thing that sometimes happens to me when drilling my holes for the clocks using the forestner bits.. The table on my Delta just has a clamp to hold the table height.. I've had a few instances where I didn't have the clamp tight enough and as I drill the table is moving down so I'm not getting the depth that I had set it up for.. But that doesn't sound like his problem because he is bottoming out the chuck to his piece of wood and not getting through the back side.. so again.. drill bit too short... or slipping back up into the chuck... the only two options it can be..

You might actually like that saw Scott as they do have a more aggressive cut much like the DeWalt.. I really like my Excalibur now that I have the Pegas clamps on it.. Do wish it had more table in front of the blade though.. only like 4" from front of blade to edge of table.. DeWalt is like 6.5"..

Well, If the chuck is going down all the way to the wood there is only two things it can be.. 1) Drill Bit Too Short 2) Drill Bit To Far Into Chuck Which Makes It Too Short Is it possible that the since you put the bit all the way out to the bottom of the chuck that it could be slipping and pushing back up into the chuck.. I mean... If you have 1-1/2 + inch sticking out of the bottom of the chuck then you should be drilling through that distance.. unless like i said.. it's slipping back up slightly into the chuck.. If you weren't bottoming out the chuck to the wood I'd say you need to adjust the depth stop..

LOL, First thing to come to my mind is.... Is the drill bit you was using actually longer than the 1-1/2 inch stock you're trying to drill? Sounds like the problem to me since you say your 7/64 bit did it.. I find a lot of the smaller bits are also short bits.. especially when you get to the real small bits..

For your information... Hawk sells an upgraded upper clamp and tension mechanism for the older Hawks.. I found out when calling about my tension lever would pop up once I started sawing.. I thought it was worn wedges as they will also cause similar issue.. turned out to be the tension mechanism was badly worn.. and I had a very old style that had no adjustment screw underneath like the newer saws have.. They sold me a kit that upgraded my old Hawk with the BM series upper clamp mechanism and it came with new upper blade clamps and the whole tension mechanism.. I had to take the upper arm off and press the punch pin out and change out the whole thing... My upper clamp on my old 1993 Hawk is now removable... that said.. to my knowledge I don't see any real advantage to that for my old saw since the lower clamps are still the old barrel clamp.. and the lower arm sits back behind the angle adjustment anyway... so it's not like I can top feed with this set-up.. I upgraded because I wanted the adjustable tension cam.. otherwise I was back to having to replace the whole thing again when it wears out... by upgrading I only have to change the cam and lever...

Was excited the receive this award.. LOL and felt it's worth a little bragging rights.. It's certainly not easy selling online and especially on Etsy where there is 1.9 million sellers to compete with.. I had to crop most of the info out of this image due to privacy reasons so I just show the little banner from the message I got.. I owe a big Thank You to the Pattern designers... Also to this website and everyone here to this success as I couldn't have achieved this without you all..

I believe I seen in another post that he is using the Festool MIDI dust extractor on the low setting.. he had talked about it being much quieter on the low setting.. which is why I was planning to go that route..

Great set-up Rolf, this is what I had in mind to do.. I really just need the Vac I have bought all the PVC etc... but I couldn't decide on the Vac to buy.. I'll be picking up a Festool soon.. one of my lumber suppliers is a dealer for the Festool... me being cheap was researching all sort of brand extractors.. While many of us here have heard the Festool and Fein names.. you'd be surprised that there are some others that I never heard of before and many of the drywall guys was saying some of these other brands was cheaper and actually better than the Festool or Fein.. and at a lower cost.. But since the dealer for the known brand is someone I deal with on a regular basis.. I have now decided to go that route.. ( until I change my mind again anyway )

LOL, I have mentioned many times that most of my car clock patterns are purchased from a person on Etsy that does patterns for laser or CNC... I've even posted a few times as a tip that discussed to look for vector and DXF type files for scroll saw projects as this is what a lot of those guys use.. You might have to find a program to open DXF files.. but at any rate.. a lot of the questions about the files I have talked about a year or more ago.. Most times in buying the file.. I end up having to size it down quite a lot.. but I have my work around down pat now to get what I need from these type of files... I'm usually modifying file to work with my own twist on it anyway.. as the files I buy are not already clocks and usually have no text etc.. the IF you buy the design from the actual designer.. many times emailing them and asking if they'll change the file up and send it as a PDF.. they're happy to do so for getting the sale.. BUT.. there are a lot of licensed sellers that also know nothing about how to change it up.. I do quite a lot of dealing with a seller on etsy with the store name DarensGraphix... I always look for any of these type files before asking our great designers here.. as I don't mind paying for a ready made design and hate to have designers make something that's already out there...There are a lot of these type files on etsy.. you just have to search for DXF or vector drawings.. Anyway, Melanie explained it and in much better detail than I could,

Yeah, why I typically have the heater on my right side or. opposite side of the direction the dust blower is on the scroll saw.. ( Hawks blow to the left side and the Dewalts / EX blow to the right LOL ) and on the opposite side of the heater I have the box fan with furnace filter.. The box fan seems to get 99% of the dust that floats around in the air.. eventually need to hook up a vac system like many of you all have.. Anyway.. I got to where I don't run my ceiling mount filtration system unless I'm sanding or running any of the other shop tools.. The fan does a great job for the scroll saw.. provided I set it up in the correct spot.. Thanks for the caution though... I don't plan to run this like that.. mainly was just testing what that little heater was capable of.. Soon there will be a furnace in there... probably not until it's so hot I'll wish I had went with AC instead though

So I have had this little LP heater for a few years that I use to set next to me while sawing. https://www.harborfreight.com/15000-btu-tank-top-propane-heater-63073.html The thing really just makes my leg closest to the heater burn up while the rest of me is a little chilly. I stop every now and then to warm my hands up and go back to work. I've been looking at small Lp and or electric heaters as I'll be installing some sort of heat for next year not only for me to be more comfy working.. but also because my CNC and Laser are water cooled. I'll still run coolant in them or anti freeze whatever you choose to call it, LOL. Anyway some of the heaters claim to heat a 30 x 30 shop and are only around 18,000 BTU. I got the bright idea since my little heater is 15,000 BTU.. I took my air filtration ( Box Fan With Furnace Filter ) away from my saw to run a test on if I could raise the temp in the shop.. While cutting yesterday for about 2 hours. I raised the temp 8 degrees while the outside temp was going down.. as it was 16F when I started sawing and only 9 when i finished up.. Now.. Don't do what I did there and run out to get you one of these to do that.. These are NOT a vented heater and they say to keep a door or window open when running it inside.. which I do that.. normally.. but was just running this as a test.. I wasn't in the shop that whole time but kept monitoring the heater and temp.. I normally never leave the thing on if I go in the house as I don't trust it too much.. Just thought it was a fun little test since I really know nothing about BTU or heaters in general.. I will say.. the fan behind it keeps me warmer even though I do keep a door open for fresh air.. feels like a furnace vent heat this way and I'll likely run it like that as it doesn't burn my one leg while the rest of me is still cold. LOL Actually quite surprised at how well it did heat since my loft and stairway are open.. and I had the heater and fan pointed toward the stairway & landing. the thermometer was on the back opposite corner of the shop from the stairway.. Probably was hot upstairs LOL I never went to see but should have.. The upstairs is insulated with R- 20 styrofoam sheeting. Just haven't done the downstairs yet.. Most all the insulation I've picked up from CL from those that bought too much and I've been picking up few sheets at a time.. I also been picking up R-19 rolls to do the downstairs ceiling... someone gave me 4 big brand new rolls of that.. Eventually I'll have it done and cheap too.. The whole upstairs is 4" x 4 x 8 sheets and I bought all of it for $200 and have some sheets left.. Local Menards sells this stuff I used for $73 a 4 x 8 sheet..