kmmcrafts

My Ex-21 upper arm was real stiff working for the first 4-5 hours use.. Hated that at first as it didn't go up easy.. and also would take some effort to move it back down until a certain point then it would go easier and slam down.. but that all worked out with some time on the saw.. My saw had several loose screws / bolts where front arms connect to the long arms that go to the back of the saw.. check all those for being tight enough.. they don't need to be tight but not so loose they are about to fall out like mine was, LOL.. I've said it many times.. but I'll say it again.. I just wasn't impressed with the saw straight out of the box.. Love it now that I've tweaked and tuned it.. But.. there was all sorts of issues at first.. I don't expect a saw to be tuned right out of the box.. but I also don't expect one to be falling apart from loose bolts etc.. either.. Make sure your getting the blade tension good and tight.. This is an issue I had with mine.. and every time I changed to a different hole I had to fight with the blade tension lever and the clamping part too.. my upper tension mechanism didn't work very smooth ( those two pieces that slide together ) those two pieces kept hanging up... probably on a burr or something and it was trying to go crooked sometimes.. Best thing I did and to keep my sanity was to ditch those junk factory blade chucks and upgrade to the Pegas.. I was ready to throw the whole saw in the dumpster for a while there, LOL Keep at it and it'll be running good and smooth.. Just getting the things set up, sorted out and tuned can be a headache sometimes.. I don't really know what to say about the blade not squaring up.. and also not sure about the angle thing.. I didn't have any issues there with mine.. gotta be something simple seems like.. Maybe someone else knows.. if not.. give Ray a call, I'm sure he can give some suggestions.. Edit to say.. Maybe look closely at the bolts up by the blade clamps etc... There is little washer / spacers that go between the bearing and the clamp itself ( I think ) and it could be possible that the washer didn't get pushed on to the end of the bearing sleeve correctly which would prevent the clamp to position correctly.. This could be why you are not able to move the set screws enough to get the blade to run square.. Just a idea..to check..

If cutting with the DeWalt or Excalibur.. I stack 3 1/8" pieces... I'm able to do two real easy on the Hawk 226 though.. I also do the blade size change from one style blade to another... but also do the same per saw I use... I find I use a larger blade on the Hawks and a smaller blade on the other saws... My main blades are Pegas MG #5 or FD UR #5 I like Olsen spirals.. but also like the FD NS spirals too.. Bought a few samples of the Pegas spirals.. but have very limited use on them yet.. I hink the number sizes on Pegas run smaller than that of the other brands.. ie a number 5 pegas seems more like what a number 4 FD-UR blade would be.. I know they don't have a 4.. just saying it seems a little smaller than a 5 but slightly larger than a 3... If that makes any sense LOL.. With spirals on the FD brand.. I typically use smaller sizes than I would for a straight blade.. ie if I normally use a number 3-5 straight blade on a cutting.. If I was to use a spiral... I'd drop to a number 1 or even a 0/1.. I very rarely use anything above a number 1 in a spiral.. as I don't care for the wide kerf it makes.. and the corners are not nearly as tight with the larger blades..

Wife tried to have me committed several years ago and found it only made it worst, LOL so then we built another shop.. LOL..

Glad to see I'm not the only one that jumps all over the place with blade types, sizes, and brands.. I have a few Olsen blades that are my go to blade for certain saw and materials I use.. Also use a few of the Flying dutchman brand and sizes and yes.. my most used blade is the Pegas modified geometry.. but again... this really depends upon what saw I'm cutting on.... and.... the project at hand... This is why I always hate to answer those " what blade to use " questions that seem to pop up on here about once a month, LOL.. and many will reply with their opinion of the best blade.. but neither mention what type of project they are working on... LOL..

Yeah they are going to be running a big sale at the new year.. so is axiom brand... axiom is offering a tool box with the stand or something like that.. The $500 discount doesn't come with the water cooled spindle.. I'm in pretty good with the guys at the store where I got mine.. the one guy told me about all the upcoming deals and wanted to know if I wanted to wait.. at that time I was looking at the smaller $1600 one which will be right around $1000 starting the new year.. but the one I got is much bigger work table and the free water cooled spindle is a $700 value.. so I bought that one instead of waiting.. plus.. I was looking for a tax write off for this years taxes LOL..

As far as the arm not going up when releasing the blade.. that could be just a weak spring.. there is a spring at the back of the saw that pulls the arm up when the blade is released.. those springs get weak over time.. Mine is weak as well and I now have to give it a tap or light bump to help it go.. I need to get a new spring for it.. I think you can probably just take it off and match it up to one at a hardware store.. or just help keep Hawk in business and order one from them.. The added vibration could be a bearing running dry on grease... It seems to me the ones that I've seen from reading others postings and my own experience the main ones that I've seen people having to replace is the main connecting rod ones.. this would be the bearings in that flat stock rod that connects the motor to the lower arm.. I've seen a few cases where people have had to order a new connecting rod.. I opted to just press out the old bearings and pressed new ones in.. but you need to make sure not to bend that rod... it is just light weight aluminum.. though about 1/4 + thick.. but could be bent pressing bearings in or out if not careful...

The one he has is advertised as a 50watt.. however it actually only has a 40 watt tube.. so power is same as what I bought.. These Chinese laser builders will say they are 50-60 watt but only a 40 watt tube.. and just rate it overclocked.. and running them at full power shortens the life of the tube dramatically.. His has a larger work bed, has adjustable bed height and a rotary attachment to work with round stock.. All of these are capable with mine other than the larger work bed.. I can stack things under the work table on mine to raise the piece up or whatever.. His is from the same company I believe but the more $$.. I'm on a few laser groups and there are a bunch of guys running these cheap lasers like I got for their business's.. and seem to have great luck with them..

This is a good place to start.. they play for me in sequence so I just bookmark my last one I watch and go from there... too many for me to watch all in one sitting.. LOL

I do agree.. only power tool I bought new that didn't really need anything was my DeWalt 788.. I expect to fine tune a saw... Don't expect to have loose bolts that hold the actual saw together etc.. but having to level the saw table and square blade up is something to be expected.. For what it's worth.. my saw was before they moved to a different plant.. so maybe they are better now or mine was just a fluke deal.. I had a lot of issues with mine... not only with the saw but believe mine may have had a defective upper clamp.. Someone brought up a good point about Ray tuning every saw before they left his business.. I know they sold tons of them from places besides Seyco too and have heard a few instances where they had to call Ray to help get their saw running right.. there could have always been a quality issue with them that Ray took care of.. so many people may not have seen any issues like those that may have bought elsewhere.. They are great little saws once they are tuned...

Nice Work!! You did great.. Pattern making does take quite a lot of in the head visualizing that takes quite a learning curve.. I still like to make the centers of O's and e's fall out every now and then

ME TOO..

My EX-21 vibrated quite badly when I first got it.. and was probably the hardest of the scroll saws I've had to get tuned and getting it mounted solid on the stand with the stand legs planed firm on the ground.. Now it runs real smooth.. Another thing with my saw was the fact that there was several bolts loose on the saw.. must have been made at the end of shift on a Friday or something.. dang near every bolt in and on the saw was loose.. Guess right out of the box.. gave me my first bad impression.. I now like the saw but.. LOL.. really started off as a bad experience.. that I guess I haven't been able to let go of.. certainly a nice cutting saw now.. but certainly not what I would call ready to run straight out of the box.. Curious how my Hawk is going to be after Iggy's experience.. Hoping they don't ruin my Hawk experience and force me to send it back for a Twain saw ..

I might have to make me a larger table for my Excalibur.. I don't seem to have any issues with the table size for the other saws.. I do larger work now and then and usually use the dewalt if I need more table support since it has the biggest table..

That is certainly and interesting outfit.. My son uses something similar at his work that they use to do engraving on engine parts and marking their work and parts.. He works at a place where they build race car, race boat, plane motors etc.. they don't mickey mouse around.. as they don't mess with anything less than 1200HP.. most are 3000+ HP, LOL.. Anyway.. my son fell in love with the tool and wanted to get one for himself.. that is.. until he was told how much.. LOL

Rolf, This is the one I ordered.. I bought it local and they was running a special for free upgrade to the water cooled spindle.. I Also added the touch plate feature.. I didn't go with the laser module for the CNC.. thought about it but the power is really limited for the money.. So I went with one of the cheap 40W co2 lasers from eBay then purchased a custom air assist nozzle .. set up right with some tuning and upgraded mirrors the laser will cut through 1/4" wood.. The trick to these not getting burnt edges is.. tuning them.. You can get good edges with these without the burnt edges.. IF one can tune it to run properly.. Also can cut 1/2" acrylic supposedly, LOL but there is quite a learning curve on these and most don't tune them to run efficiently.. they just set up and get them to cut.. not worrying about the edges etc.. I got both machines just as toys and to learn from them.. not really expecting to run production with them at this time.. CNC - https://www.rockler.com/cnc-shark-hd4 Laser- https://www.ebay.com/itm/40W-USB-12X8-CO2-Laser-Engraver-Cutter-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-Red/153151531963?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Air Assist-https://www.ebay.com/itm/18mm-Laser-Head-w-Air-Assisted-Ideal-for-K40-Machine/142995089380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I've been following this guy on Youtube for quite some time.. He worked with laser machines cutting metal at his job.. and when retired he bought a cheap Chinese laser similar to what I got and he is quite smart about them.. does a lot of testing with them etc..Real interesting to watch his laser videos for sure.. I think I've watched all of them at least two or three times.. I've had a interest for these lasers for a few years.. and decided to spring for one and do some playing myself.. Certainly not a toy to play with if you don't have some common knowledge about them, LOL.. I've always been amazed that they are even allowed to sell some of these open bed ones.. https://www.youtube.com/user/SarbarMultimedia/videos

Merry Christmas to everyone here in the Village..

I love all my tools as well.. and I'll likely have a hard time letting some of the stuff go.. maybe I won't... If the BM series is anything like the older Hawks are I'm sure I'll be very happy with it.. I've found some really good deals local on Hawks, and a couple Hegners and I have a reason to buy new.. I love the Excalibur saw it cuts nice and can fine tune the blade to where I like to cut.. My biggest complaint is the blade being so close to the end of the table.. but that is a minor thing and I could build a new extended table top if I wished to.. I think all the hype on the Excalibur that everyone loves them so much was kind of a let down on expectations for me... I first had many issues with the upper clamping system.. the upgrade to the Pegas clamps is a must in my opinion and actually made the saw usable for me.. That said.. many claim I had a defective clamp.. maybe.. still a pretty poor design for a clamp on a pricey saw.. I call it a glorified DeWalt because the only real advantage is the tilting head ( if one does angle cuts which I don't do ).. the other advantage is the blade being adjustable... for cutting aggression... pretty pricey feature to buy over the DeWalt... and the down fall for me is the blade is right at the end of the table.. Just goes to show that everyone has a different opinion of their tools and the expectations are different.. I think had I not had the Hawk before the Excalibur.. I'd be much more impressed... The laser I bought is just a small toy that I've always wanted to mess with and not anything pricey.. One of the cheap eBay Chinese 40W Co2 lasers.. There is a lot one can do with those things with some mods.. I've researched those for a couple years.. and made extra money this year so figured I buy some tools to play around with that I otherwise wouldn't do.. such as the Hawk and the CNC.. The CNC is a Next Wave HD4.. There are reviews about them and the only downfall I've seen is the plastic supports can have some flex as it's not as rigid... If I have a ssue with that I figured I'd make my own supports out of aluminum..

Looking forward to hearing and seeing some of your projects with the CNC.. What CNC did you get for $1200 if you don't mine my asking? By the time I bought a couple accessories etc for my CNC I walked out of the store $5000 less than I had when I went in the store.. that almost always happens when I go to that store.. either buying tools or lumber, LOL

The G4 is a lot like the newest Hawks... I believe the G4 has a adjustable blade forward backward motion.. for cutting aggression.. The G4 also have the lower arm protrudes through the angle adjust at the front of the saw so you don't have to reach around behind that to do your blade changes.. The G4 is also a top or bottom feed saw.. I'm not real up on them but these are things I've read abut.. the G4 was always kind of a sought after saw.. Believe the came out around 2005 up until the new BM series came out.. To be honest I'm not really sure what differences there is between the G4 and the newest BM series are.. pretty much the same features.. I know the BM series changed out to a different heavy duty motor that has a much larger shaft and doesn't use the old flywheel design.. the motor mounts directly to the connecting rod and uses a counter weight balance.. Anyway.. from what I've read the G4 is a awesome saw.. Rolf has one maybe he'll chime in with his experience..

LOL, I have had the 20" and the 26 in my shopping cart on and off contemplating what one to buy for 4-5 days now... Yeah the smaller 20" is more than enough for the projects I do.. and.. I do have the 226 Ultra.. My thought was really at some point I may have a need to just keep one saw if I keep buying other tools and filling my shop up.... The newest one and the one with the variable blade adjustment just made more sense to buy and keep if I were to sell off the others at some point.. and my thinking was.. I have the cash now.. and at some point I decide to let the other two Hawks go and buy another new one.. it will be easier to come up with the $200 less later than right now while I have the funds too... maybe.. LOL If.. I end up really liking the BM series.. it's very possible I'll sell my Ultra and the 220 and make another purchase for the 20" saw next year..

I bought my CNC and laser more to just play and learn.. them... not really so much as a way to make production for selling products.. I love the true handmade process more than just setting up a machine to make stuff for me... will I change my mind after playing with it.. probably not but.. I may start another store for selling "machine " made stuff if I can learn how to operate the darn things, LOL Jim.. I'm not certain the CNC is going to cut those motorcycles like you think it will... I may be wrong as I don't know a lot about them myself.. but I didn't think you could really cut things with them.. well actually you can... but you'll need to leave tabs that'll need to be cut by hand... They are from my understanding.. not as easily done on some of the project like many people think.. My local workbench store has them running making things on display quite often.. I've sat and watched them run for several hours and talked with them about the things they can make and compared to the scroll work I do and much of what I do they say would be doable but with compromises.. I have no idea for sure though... also they don't cut nearly as fast as one really thinks too.. again... I'm really new to that side of woodworking but wanted to learn.. so I may be way off in my thinking of them..

I went with the Hawk because it is the best made tool I have seen.. with the features and goodies offered in the price range of high end saws.. I don't like the smaller table of the Hegner.. DeWalts last about a week.. and Excaliburs are really no differently made ( mechanical wise ) than a DeWalt.. so I see no real advantage to keeping it around... some may be offended because they love their Excalibur and DeWalts.. I like using them.. but longevity just isn't there for a production type setting.. I do think Hengers are great saws.. looked at a few.. parts aren't cheap.. it would mean learning the in's and outs of using it... all over again.. took me a good amount of time.. fussing with blade configurations etc to get to a point where I actually like using the Hawks not really wanting to do that again with Hegner.. In part also my reason for going with a brand new one is that it has the variable blade adjustment.. my 226 Ultra only has the two position blade holder and the aggressive position is too much.. and the less aggressive not enough.. these two positions the way the saw is designed is quite a big blade movement from the one slot to the next.. I feel if one could be set in the middle of these two position the saw would be perfect.. The older 220 with the round clamps.. cuts almost perfect for my style cutting... but is well worn and needs plenty of repairs to be a production worker saw.. With the new saw this is variable so I should be able to get it dialed in to where I like.. even though I've kind of grown use to the slower pace cutting and being able to maneuver the tight corners better..... The 226 Ultra is making some squeaking noises from the motor area.. the old 220 needs the arms machined and new wedges.. I intend to fix whatever is going on with the 226 Ultra and maybe later on I'll send the arms in for the 220.. meanwhile.. I want to have a dependable saw so my reason for going with a new one.. work on the issues with the older ones.. sell off the others.. I'm a bottom feeder so that wasn't the issue.. just more about buying a quality saw that'll be dependable for a couple years hopefully without having to do anything to it.. The 226 Ultra was brand new when I bought it two years ago.. but I've found that from sitting for 20 years the grease in the bearings had dried up and got hard.. I've had to replace about every bearing in the thing.. but did't do the big bearing in that block on the end of the motor or the one just inside the motor... I'm thinking this is where the squeaking is coming from.. saw still works flawlessly but stopped using it before I damage the motor or something else..

Just placed my order for a BM-226 with all the options.. fully loaded.. even has air conditioning.. probably should have ordered heater instead .. shop's pretty frosty right now at 34F.. .. After the new year.. I'll be having some saws for sale.. gotta thin out the scroll saw herd.. Will be selling a DW-788.. possibly a lightly used EX-21 with pegas upgraded clamps.. maybe.. big maybe.. the old Hawk 220VS.... Definitely keeping my Hawk 226 Ultra.. If anyone here might have any interest you might wanna let me know.. But.. before I sell any of these.. I'll be waiting to make sure the new Hawk is here and set up and tuned.. and running good.. Will also be selling some sanders and many other tools I just don't use.. I would keep them all but really have only been able to run two scroll saws at a time and the others get mad because I'm not using them... and I need to make room for the CNC router and the laser machine I just bought.. as they'll require a large portion of my woodworking shop.. I'll have a whole lot of new toys to play with in the new year.. The CNC was back ordered and may be Feb or so before I get it.. but the laser is supposed to ship on the 3rd.. Just ordered the Hawk this morning so have no idea on that yet..

You must of seen that on the show Dinners Drive Ins and Dives, LOL... They featured one of the restaurants not too far from me in Pottersville.. I'm not sure about the one in Saginaw.. but Saginaw is a good 2 hours from me I think..

Adjustable stroke? Or do you mean adjustable blade angle? I've never seen a saw with adjustable blade stroke.. The ultra saws have a two position blade stroke or blade cutting angle however you want to word it.. Can't really top feed on them though.. but that isn't an issue for a bottom feeder.. .. On another note... I've been watching the used market for Hawks now for a couple years.. and have only seen a handful of the G4 and newer saws on there.. and pretty hefty priced still.. Then you have a large crowd that still seems to think the real old ones are worth 500+ because a new one is 1200 +.. and they are always comparing it to the BM series saws of today.. which they are two completely different saws.. Something to note as well is.. My 1998 Hawk 226 Ultra came new to me still boxed.. Receipt shows they paid $1300 for the saw... They haven't raised the prices of these hardly at all over all those years... and I hope they aren't reading this.. because I want to buy a new one... not sure if it'll happen this year yet or not..so hoping the price might still be the same next year... There is a newer BM 226 series on eBay with shipping option available Buy It Now Priced at $990.. shipping to me is $100..