kmmcrafts

Congrats on the great sales... inventory always comes up short.. Last year you do great on a certain item so you focus on making a bunch for the next year and only sell a couple and you then sell out of something else, LOL Never fails.. Only if we could read what the shoppers would be looking for each year.. it'd sure take a lot of guesswork out of what to make next.. LOL

Good luck Scott.. hoping the rain holds off for you....and I bet you're ready for that break... Me too.. LOL.. been a real busy one this year..

What Pegas type did you buy? The Pegas MFG blades are milled I believe.. so they do not have that slight couple of degrees off center cut like the FD blades do.. they do take a little getting used to at first... but once you do.. they are a long lasting sharp cutting blade.. I've tried to use the Penguin blades and they just cut too slow for my liking and makes me push the blade too hard.. they cut nice If I can hold my horses an take it easy... but that is just not what my cutting style is.. and not what I'm used to.. so I have a couple dozen of a few different sizes I've had now for 5-6 years.. LOL.. Probably should send them down the road to someone that'd use them.. LOL

Hotshot did a video of his BM series with the nickle test.. It's on Youtube..

Dan is correct.. Only the FD Ultra Reverse blades have the dimple... I remember when they started doing that dimple.. made things a lot easier... Those UR lades are my go to blades if I'm not using Pegas, LOL... Used the TC ( two way cut) blades before I discovered the UR blades.. Funny because they are almost the same blade. yet they ( to my knowledge ) never put the dimple on them.. and running your finger down either one of these blades is not very doable the way the teeth design its.. as they have reverse teeth throughout the whole blade..

My Hawk 226 Ultra is pretty darn smooth from slowest setting until just before Half way on the dial.. even thin it's not horrible.. better than some of the cheap saws I've had at any speed, LOL.. Anyway it smooths back out again just a few hundred SPM past that first little bit of vibration area.. then it's smooth sailing from there to full speed.. BUT.. as mentioned.. I had to fuss with the stand quite a lot to get it completely level to my floor.. Before I did that it was only vibration free at only a few select speeds.. and non were where I like to run it.. LOL I most times run mine about 3/4 of the way up on the dial.. sometimes 7/8 the way up.. My stand never came with any kind of feet on it.. and I could never get it to run as smooth as my older Hawk 220.. and I bought some adjustable feet for it at the hardware store like I did with the 220 when I first got it... I kept playing around with those adjustable feet until I got it to run smooth throughout most of the speed ranges.. there is one spot on the dial I believe on all Hawks that does have a little more vibration.. I think Randy ( Hotshot ) mentioned about this when he got his BM series Hawk as well as Iggy.. Anyway they all called it a sweet spot... I never could figure that out because that vibration isn't sweet to me.. so I call it a sour spot on the dial... the rest of the dial selections are sweet spots LOL

I was Bragging that I have a rare limited edition of defective blades.. If I hang onto these long enough they'll be worth millions.. Maybe? I posted here by accident because I was using my phone to post the pictures.. not only posted here once.. but twice.. before I found the actual correct place, LOL

Okay, I've really got some goofed up blades.. @octoolguy Ray... those notches are not to mark end for end that's for sure.. I have been out sawing and run across some goofy blades.. the one was notched and pointed on both ends and another was like this on the bottom instead of the top.. The one that had it on both ends didn't last too long because I could tell right away that something wasn't right... Tension was too loose and I was using the Hawk and had been sawing right along and moved nothing... put the blade up by the old one again ( should have grabbed a picture ) and it was about 1/8" longer.. that pointed end on these from my experience is not really the end of the blade.. they are supposed to be cut flat but something must have messed up and got past quality control, LOL Now.. Pegas blades have always been a little on the longer side for me and I have to adjust the Hawk if I'm switching back and fourth from FD - Pegas.. Anyway.. these blades are definitely messed up.. now that I know I can probably get by with them by snipping the end off or something.. hoping my whole gross package isn't like this.. hard to tell when they are all bundled still.. and don't really want to open them all up, LOL..

Ray recently posted about putting blades in the wrong way and how he discovered their mark on the Pegas to decipher top of blades. I didn’t see what he was talking about and thought maybe he was seeing things or I wasn’t So today I used up my last of a gross of blades and had to open up my new gross pack. There is the mark Ray talked about. This must be a new thing for Pegas and I have mixed feelings about it. First off this notch they ground into the top end of the blade weakens the blade in this area. The very tip is also ground and tends to be pointed more so which likes to catch on the edges of stack cutting layers while trying to insert the blade. While I could get use to it being pointed I suppose but not to sure about the weak spot they created with that notched part. I did break one blade in this area BUT it was dull and I was pushing it just finishing up my last cut. But I do see it as a weak spot. Not sure if you can see the difference in this picture of the new blade vrs the old one. Hopefully My Brain Thawed Out And I Post In The Right Section This Time..

Woops.. posted to wrong section.. will post again in the general section... What I get for using my phone to do this

Ray recently posted about putting blades in the wrong way and how he discovered their mark on the Pegas to decipher top of blades. I didn’t see what he was talking about and thought maybe he was seeing things or I wasn’t So today I used up my last of a gross of blades and had to open up my new gross pack. There is the mark Ray talked about. This must be a new thing for Pegas and I have mixed feelings about it. First off this notch they ground into the top end of the blade weakens the blade in this area. The very tip is also ground and tends to be pointed more so which likes to catch on the edges of stack cutting layers while trying to insert the blade. While I could get use to it being pointed I suppose but not to sure about the weak spot they created with that notched part. I did break one blade in this area BUT it was dull and I was pushing it just finishing up my last cut. But I do see it as a weak spot. Not sure if you can see the difference in this picture of the new blade vrs the old one.

I have a very small LP radiant heater that I bought at HF that I aim at me. Just burns one leg and the rest of me is just barely warm. lol. Got my two clocks cut so that’s what counts. Just gotta make the bases then back to the house to glue them up. Hoping to mail both out tomorrow with the rest of my orders. Then maybe caught back up.

I've been so busy inside packing orders the last week or so that I haven't even had a chance to go saw.. Hope I can remember how to run the saw... I may be asking for some advice and tips... I've got a few orders that need made and everything is finally packaged and shipped... The part I've not looking forward to is shown in the picture... and no heat in the shop yet.. though it's not too bad out there at 30F.. Picture is from up the road when I was on my way home from taking the kids to school this morning.. took a video coming up my road but couldn't get it to load... maybe too large a file..

Awesome!!! those DeWalts are a great saw for the money... and getting new tools.. well that is always fun in itself.. Have fun making sawdust..

Yeah, gets tough when you add up those layers.. When I make my wall hang clocks.. I stack cut 5 1/8 BB ply which goes great.. but I also like to cut my backers 1/4" solid walnut or ply depending on what I have on hand.. so I end up stacking the 5 1/8" BB ply and 5 1/4" walnut ply together.. It's pretty slow going but sure is nice that it's only cutting the outside of the clocks.. I'd never do that if it was inside cuts too, LOL Takes almost as long to cut the outside part as it does doing all the detail fretwork

Yeah, been there more times than I'd like to admit...

If that ever happens with a spiral blade.. I think it'd be time to sell the saw and pick up a different hobby..

Where is the mark on Pegas? Maybe something new they are doing? I've never seen any marks on the Pegas.. be nice if they did.. I usually just look under my magnifier to see what way the teeth are pointing.. If you notice right before the bottom there will be a small gap before the reverse teeth... I always look for that gap then I know that's the bottom of the blade.. Short of that.. I've never seen any markings.. I do like those FD blades the way they mark them.. but.. only their UR blades are actually marked.. unless someone knows something I don't..anyway..

Ray, I also agree with not going the aquarium pump.. The older Delta never had all that great of a bellow and many people suggested the pump... I was disappointed with it as well... The Hawk has the strongest air blower I've ever seen.. thinking the Hegner is the same? anyway.. I think one could almost air a tire up with the Hawk, .. The air blowing out of the hose on my Hawks is loudest part of the saw.. well maybe when you actually are cutting then you don't hear it so much but just running it without cutting.. you just hear the puff puff puff on every blade stroke.. Not like the DeWalts and that where you gotta aim the tube fairly well.. Think that is why so many of the older Hawks just have the tubing cut off and not the flex line stuff.. it only needs to aim down at the table anywhere.. LOL Hegners bellows looks pretty stout.. I'm almost betting it's better than the Hawk one...

I have limited knowledge with bandsaws since I've only had mine a couple years and I just don't use it as I thought I would.. I tried doing some stuff like this with mine and the edges of the wood come out much rougher than that of the scroll saw.. I think a couple of those sharp curves you have would be kinda tight even with the smaller blades.. I was able to achieve my project with the bandsaw but that said.. not really sure it saved me any time because I had plenty of sanding and shaping to do.. and in the end.. I think it actually took slightly longer to do it... What you need is a CNC to cut the backer while you cut the fretwork, LOL..

Be careful buying from that place. I used to always get my blades from them. But the Pegas brand was always out of stock and back ordered. One time it took 8 weeks to get my blades and they are only the next state over from me. They are a small business that both the husband and wife work full time jobs. I like them nice people and like to support the small business. But I just had 1-2 too many late shipping items that it turned me off. This has been done to other scroll sawer as well because I’ve seen post on here and other sites about them. You’ll get the blades just might be a while. One order they totally forgot my back ordered blades that they said they’d ship once they came in a week later. Three weeks went by and I send them a message. So keep a receipt and keep track of your order and what you order. Also, you never get any kind of shipping/ tracking notifications so you’re left in the wind if they ever sent them. Not trying to badmouth them. They are just busy people trying to make a living. Just trying to warn you to keep and eye on what you order and that it might take some time to get it. Most times it was quick but if there was a back order, then they forget you had a order. Think because they ship the things you order that they have. Then they forget that you have more to the order.

Congrats on the new saw...Some day I'll buy a Hegner to try... if I ever find one at a good deal... every time I see a deal I don't have the money and then when i have some cash... no good deals, LOL

This is the one I have.. and it's quite gentle on my fretwork portraits etc... I could never sand the finished cut pieces with the new HF model I have .. but could with the older HF model i used to have but wore out.. The little dust canister has a paper pleated filter.. I don't get very much dust off of this thing.. that is until I need to empty the canister.. I usually take my shop vac and clean out the canister and the filter.. I will say.. the canister is kinda difficult to open up... but short of that.. I'm extremely happy with it.. and if it stopped working.. I'd replace with the same one... I do not like the sanders that have the cloth bag dust collection.. everyone I've had the bag gets saturated with the dust and will eventually start blowing dust through the bag.. many times the power cord interferes with the bag and rubs a hole in the bag.. https://www.rockler.com/bosch-ros20vsc-5-in-variable-speed-random-orbit-sander-with-carrying-bag?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIie_t1ZDy3gIVzbbACh3JwwocEAQYASABEgLjEvD_BwE Just thought I'd ad... I've had my sander for at least 4 years and it's used a lot... Just a couple months ago it stopped working and i took it apart to find the motor brushes worn out.. New brushes and working good again.. This was the sander I was using a lot on doing the paint job on my daughters Jeep if anyone remember the posting I did on that job.. sanding cars is a lot of work but the little sander held up and did a great job.. why I used it was.. it actually did a much better job than my big air powered sander. What made me use it instead to begin with? because the air compressor was so loud I couldn't hear my radio.

I guess you have to hold onto the wood better.. LOL Back when I was doing this without realizing it.. I was to using the FD-TC ( two way cut ) blades.. But if you've used the FD-UR blades you probably notice that you have to keep more pressure on the wood as they have reverse teeth all the way up the blade too.. almost the same blade as the FD-TC blade.. But these blades it does work better upside down than the regular reverse blades... It is much more noticeable when you use a regular reverse tooth blade like the pegas MG though as then all teeth are pointed up if it's upside down.. and I don't think I've yet installed one like that.. With the FD-TC and the FD-UR blades.. you pretty much know right away what way the blade is in because you know how the blade cuts on a slight right angle? well if its in backwards.. it cuts on a slightly left angle, LOL... . Now.. that's a good test to a good scroll sawer... saw for an hour or two.. then switch the blade end for end and see how good you are at staying on the line... I got use to doing that.. somehow..